Before we start, a usual disclaimer - I am not a mechanic, do you at your own risk and do not do unless confident in your skills. This is not an official nor recommended guide. I'm not responsible for any damage or loss resulting from following this information.
Credit: Thanks all members of Audizine and contributors on the net!
Since we will be removing a fuel line and TFSI engine operates under a very high fuel pressure, begin with relieving the fuel pressure by pulling fuel pump fuse (it is in the driver’s side fuse block), then start the car and let it run until it dies. Then, remove the supercharger - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyZLjJOxBvQ and https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...l-photos-tips!
A time lapse of PCV replacement:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Lil3wf_2m4
Shared wisdom:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...e-coolant-loss
Special tools:
10mm triple-square bit (2-3” long) from AdvanceAutoParts
Also useful a band clamp removal tool, ¼” ratcheting wrench, a long screwdriver.
Parts:
PCV / Oil Separator 06E103547AC
PCV-to-charger breather tube o-ring WHT004793A x2
Coolant Connector Pipe 06E121065N (these tend to break while taking apart)
Coolant Connector Pipe Oring N90316801 (I think 06E121065N comes with a new o-ring already)
Head cover gaskets 079129717B x3
Supercharger gaskets 079129717D x6
Band clamp 9mm (got generic one from ebay)
Injector O-Rings MAHLE GS33503 (possibly not exact fit, see note below).
Possibly engine oil for an oil change
Optionally - gas line adapter fittings x2 07L127065A/06E127065B/06E127065D, see comments from theweebabyseamus
Picture 1. Here what we deal with after removing the supercharger.
Picture 2. Major components that need to be removed. Yellow – fuel line. Red – cylinder head/crankcase breather hose. Purple – coolant pipe. Green – breather hose. Blue - intake manifold bottom section.
Picture 3. Step 1 – drain as much coolant as you can. There are 4 fittings on the bottom that can be used to drain coolant – radiator drain plug, oil cooler, and two connections on X-pipe. The picture above is the drain valve on the radiator – it needs to be turned 45 degrees, then pulled out. PCV unit has 3 coolant passages and holds some coolant. If not drained, this coolant gets dumped into the crankcase and you are up for an oil change. That said, I’m not sure if it is actually possible to drain the PCV completely. Maybe drill a hole on top and suck it out? I did not drain any of the bottom fittings and ended up changing the oil before starting the engine.
Picture 4. Undo the band clip. Squeeze the connector and detach the breather hose. Remove the band clip.
Picture 5. Let’s remove the fuel line. Start by removing the fuel line guard plate.
Picture 6. MAKE SURE YOU PULLED FUEL PUMP FUSE!!! The fuel system is primed every time you open driver’s door. You really do not want to re-pressurize the system while the line is out! Since there might still be a pressure in the system, wear some gloves, then wrap a rug around the fuel line nut and unscrew the nut very slowly. A little bit of fuel will come out.
Picture 7. Put a rug under the line, hold the union nut with 19mm wrench and undo the 17mm nut. Just squeeze the two wrenches together. Do this on both sides. After that, undo the bolts holding the fuel line to the PCV and the valve cover. Carefully wiggle the fuel line out, making sure to not scratch the fittings. Do not bend the line!
Picture 8. Loosen up the crankcase breather pipe. First, undo the zip tie.
Picture 9. There is another zip tie and a band clamp behind the oil filter. I left the zip tie in place.
Picture 10. Pull the pipe out. I could not figure out how to release the connector, so I just stuffed pieces of a gift card between the valve cover and the connector. Be careful, the pipe is expensive and is easy to break.
Picture 11. Undo the torx screw holding the breather pipe to PCV and pry the pipe out a little. No need to remove it completely just yet (an likely not possible).
Picture 12. At this point, we are ready to remove the coolant hard line. Start by undoing the torx bolt near the firewall.
Picture 13. There are a few options. You can either use a long torx bit at an angle, or, as shown above, a screwdriver bit with a ¼” ratcheting wrench. I have fixed the bit in the wrench by using a heavy-duty mounting tape on the back side of the bit and a zip-tie on the front. In this way, the bit could move back and forth in the wrench, but stayed attached. You can put some pressure on the bit with your finger on the other side of the bracket. Once loosened, the bolt can be unscrewed by hand.
Picture 14. Detach the hard line from the rubber heater pipe by the firewall. The hard line is attached to the rubber pipe using a 3” intermediate plastic union pipe. You can either undo the band clamp on the heater side or the metal C-clip on the hard line side. Both the band and the clip face down. You can see the band, but not the clip. I went with band clamp and then pried the rubber pipe with a long screwdriver. Looking back, this was probably a good choice since the hard line sits in the union pretty tight.
Picture 15. The side of the hard line that goes into the plastic union.
Once the heater pipe has been disconnected – wiggle the hard line’s bracket out of the metal bracket (the one where we just removed the bolt). After that, good luck pulling the pipe out of the engine block. I tried to rotate mine and the pipe did come out, but its flange remained in the block. When re-assembling, pushing the pipe back into the block was just as hard, so I’m not sure if it’s even possible to remove the line without any kind of damage. I would recommend buying a spare pipe, just in case. The new pipe comes with a new o-ring for the engine block side.
Picture 16. If you are also doing the thermostat – you can try pushing the hard line from inside the thermostat housing (circled in blue). Credit – the picture is not mine, found on the web - @decksurgen from audiclubsg.
Picture 17. Now on to removing the bottom section of intake manifold. You can remove either left or right side. The repair manual recommends the left, so that’s what I’ve done. You need to undo 8 nuts and bolts at the top (blue, in diagonal sequence) and unplug the fuel line control connector (orange). There is also a valve flaps vacuum line and connector (blue at the bottom of the picture). They are tough to get to and can remain in place – you can undo them once the section has been removed, but make sure not to break them.
Picture 18. A closer view of the flap vacuum control unit thingy.
Picture 19. Remove the cover by carefully (but forcefully) pulling up. It sits there pretty tight and might feel like it’s been held in place by another fastener. It is not. What’s holding it is the injector o-rings. Once removed, make sure all of the o-rings are still on injectors (in the picture above, the middle one is missing and was still in the cover). If an injector pulled up – you need to replace all o-rings and seals. Otherwise, replacing the top o-rings is fine (mine looked fine and probably could have been reused).
Picture 20. Plug all of the openings. You really do not want to drop a tool into the block. Unplug injector connectors. Undo the knock sensor (note – the 10mm triple square socket in the picture does not work, you would need a longer bit).
Picture 21. At this point, you should have enough space to wiggle out the pcv. Clean around, undo all of the bolts on the PCV, and take it out while unplugging the breather hose at the back. There is not much to hold on, so I bolted a large washer and used that as a handle.
Picture 22. This is what you deal with at the bottom.
Picture 23. Once out, you may or may not have the coolant in the chamber under the PCV due to coolant passages (circled purple). The oil passages (circled yellow) drain into the crankcase. Make sure to clean up the mess and remove any of the remaining gaskets. Credit: paul@audizine.
Install:
Install is the reverse of the removal. Couple things to pay attention to:
1.Note the layering of stuff over / under the fuel line. Electrical goes on the bottom, then the fuel line, then vacuum lines.
2. Make sure to not scratch the fuel line fittings when removing and installing back. It's a pressure fit, so it needs to be free of scratches. May want to wrap in shrink wrap or something. When installing back, you may want to push the line gently with a lever where it makes a 90-dgree turn to align the fittings with the ports in the heads. Make sure to not bend the line though.
3.Before reinstalling the intake manifold, attach the vacuum line and the connector to the flap valve control unit. There is no space to do it once installed.
4.When re-installing intake manifold, you need to make sure the flaps point vertically rather than horizontally. Our goal is to avoid them being stuck on the vertical metal divider that sits under the valves. It’s a good idea to keep checking/pushing on the flaps while tightening the bolts.
5.There is no Audi part number for injector o-rings alone, just for a ‘rebuild kit’ that consists of an o-ring and a spacer. The kit is for a single injector and costs around $30. I went with MAHLE GS33503 kit which is like $9 for a set of o-rings for all 6 injectors. I measure the black rings in the kit with a caliper and they have the exact dimensions of the original o-rigs, although feel a little bit less soft.
6.Injector orings should be lightly oiled with engine oil. The cover goes on pretty tight. I could not push it past the orings and instead forced on by gradually tightening the bolts on top.
7.Once the cover and the fuel line has been installed, plug back the fuel pump fuse and prime the system by opening the driver’s door, and check for the smell of gas in engine bay. Also, once everything is back together, run the car and check for the smell of the gasoline. If your fittings are leaking - you might need the new adapter fittings.
8. You will need to remove the PCV line from the old PCV unit and move it to the new one. The line is held in place with a non-reusable band clamp and the new unit does not come with a new clamp. I got a variety pack of clamps from fleabay, 9mm seemed to work fine.
9. Repair manual calls for renewing breather hose o-rings. I could not find a part number for one. The old ones looked fine though.
Picture 24. Closed flaps. You can play with opening the flaps by attaching a tube to the flap and sucking with your mouth or a syringe on the other end. That said, they can be pushed by hand just fine.
Picture 25. Opened flaps.
Picture 26. The vertical divider that can catch on the flaps.
Torque specs:
Fuel line: 27Nm at all 3 connections (using crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench). Re-tighten the union nut to 40Nm as well before reconnecting the pipes.
Knock sensor bolt: 20Nm (torque has an impact on the function of the sensor)
Oil separator / PCV bolts: 9Nm
Coolant pipe bracket bolt: 9Nm
Fuel line bracket bolts: 9Nm
Fule line guard: 9Nm
2 small torx bolts that go into plastic on PCV (one holding the fuel line bracket and the other holding the breather tube in the back) – 2.5Nm, basically hand-tight.
Intake manifold bolts: 10Nm (tighten in diagonal sequence and in stages)
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Originally Posted by theweebabyseamus
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