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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Another SC intercooler leak after only 3,300 miles

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    So as the title says I just went through a leaking intercooler repair and only 3,300 miles ago! It was a mess as I needed a full carbon clean because I drove too long with the leak. Coolant was everywhere and even the injectors needed to be pulled to get cleaned. New o rings were installed and even the intake manifold pulled for a proper cleaning. I took advantage of the SC getting pulled and had a S4Matty blower installed with new intercoolers I bought from AudiUSAParts.com with part number that's ends in "R".

    Had all this done at 46,600 miles and now I have 49,900. Cyl 3 plug looks bad and coolant reservoir is low (pics attached) Plugs were installed at about 37,500 miles. BKR8EIX gapped to .025"

    On top of that cyl 1 plug had gas on it which I'm told is an injector failure!

    I have a AWE coldfront without the pump which is a divorced set up. I'm thinking my issue is having a divorced system and too much pressure building up. Just seems like I should not have another cracked intercooler already. Not sure how the possible injector failure plays into it or if there is anything else going on. I had a friend take a log about a week ago and noticed cyl 3 and 5 had some correction. This could have been taken right before or after the issue started, not sure.

    Is the solution as simple as having a vented cap? This is a huge PITA and it's my daily driver. Any possible suggestions would be appreciated!

    Thanks!
    Marco

    20190425_115943.jpegScreenshot_20190425-144112_Gallery.jpeg

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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhvrdr's Avatar
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    I dont want to add to your confusion on how to try and reduce the chances of serial IC failures but just to offer a datapoint...

    I've had 3 different 3.0T cars. Two of them have been dual pulley with divorced hx setups. The Revo reservoir is pretty much identical to your AWE one. Ive run the car hard to redline just about daily doing 20mph to 100mph WOT runs on backroads I take daily. A fair amount of drag strip duty which involves heat soaking the car to all hell in the staging lanes then beating the piss out of it down the track.

    Ive yet to have an IC failure or a cat failure.

    Am I jinxing myself by typing this? Not sure. I definitely fear it will happen any day but thus far, nothing.

    Why am I lucky and others not? Maybe it really is luck. Maybe there's something else besides just divorced vs not divorced setups and adding pressure reliefs. Not sure.

    I can say that I have run any pulley ratio from 2.85 to 3.5 on these setups but 90% of my time has been on a 3.16 pulley ratio. That may help limiting the amount of boost through these cores. It may also help that I am religious about monitoring IATs. I keep IATs on my gauge screen at all times. It would only be a rare instance of testing a new cooling setup where I would see IAT above 70C. Almost never. Maybe it helps that I generally am successful in keeping IAT at 65C or well below even during all the torturing of the car. Not sure on that one either. I also live in south florida. So is it easier on the metal IC cores to always be going from warm weather to HOT iats vs people up north who could be going from 30 degree cold metal cores to 150 degree IATs. Not sure either. I know Loe used to go through IC cores like they were candy and he lives in FL too so not sure. Just helping to think out loud with you.

    It may very well be dumb luck on which cores can take DP power and for how long.

    Mike

    2018 Audi S5
    12.72 @ 108.85mph - 93 octane - +1565DA - Bone Stock
    11.68 @ 117mph - e30 octane - (-945DA) - jb4 only

    2013 Audi S5 DSG - Unitronic ECU & 034 TCU, 3.17pr
    11.07 at 123.62mph - draggy - 93 octane - (-407ft DA)
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings maty360414's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhvrdr View Post
    I dont want to add to your confusion on how to try and reduce the chances of serial IC failures but just to offer a datapoint...

    I've had 3 different 3.0T cars. Two of them have been dual pulley with divorced hx setups. The Revo reservoir is pretty much identical to your AWE one. Ive run the car hard to redline just about daily doing 20mph to 100mph WOT runs on backroads I take daily. A fair amount of drag strip duty which involves heat soaking the car to all hell in the staging lanes then beating the piss out of it down the track.

    Ive yet to have an IC failure or a cat failure.

    Am I jinxing myself by typing this? Not sure. I definitely fear it will happen any day but thus far, nothing.

    Why am I lucky and others not? Maybe it really is luck. Maybe there's something else besides just divorced vs not divorced setups and adding pressure reliefs. Not sure.

    I can say that I have run any pulley ratio from 2.85 to 3.5 on these setups but 90% of my time has been on a 3.16 pulley ratio. That may help limiting the amount of boost through these cores. It may also help that I am religious about monitoring IATs. I keep IATs on my gauge screen at all times. It would only be a rare instance of testing a new cooling setup where I would see IAT above 70C. Almost never. Maybe it helps that I generally am successful in keeping IAT at 65C or well below even during all the torturing of the car. Not sure on that one either. I also live in south florida. So is it easier on the metal IC cores to always be going from warm weather to HOT iats vs people up north who could be going from 30 degree cold metal cores to 150 degree IATs. Not sure either. I know Loe used to go through IC cores like they were candy and he lives in FL too so not sure. Just helping to think out loud with you.

    It may very well be dumb luck on which cores can take DP power and for how long.

    Mike
    We should meet up Mike, I'm living rn on South FL, Coral Gables and do some runs

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    '13 S4 | EPL DP E40 | EPL TCU | AEM W/M | Tampa Ported S/C | 75mm TB | JHM 187 | MercRacing HX/Divorced | Becker TestPipes | AutoTech HPFP | Roc Euro Intake | BFI Engine Mounts | ECS Trans Mount | ECS F/R Diff Mount | H&R Super Sport Springs | 034 Rear Sway Bar | CR-15 | Drilled & Slotted Rotors | StopTech SS | Vertini RF 1.3 | Indy 500 | Sport Diff | BFI Shift Knob | Quattro Grill | ECS Spoiler/Diffuser | RS4 Bumper | J-Code | CWA100 |

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhvrdr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maty360414 View Post
    We should meet up Mike, I'm living rn on South FL, Coral Gables and do some runs

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Awesome. Im moving this month nearby but going nuts with it so this summer definitely.... lets hit pbir on a Friday testntune

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    2018 Audi S5
    12.72 @ 108.85mph - 93 octane - +1565DA - Bone Stock
    11.68 @ 117mph - e30 octane - (-945DA) - jb4 only

    2013 Audi S5 DSG - Unitronic ECU & 034 TCU, 3.17pr
    11.07 at 123.62mph - draggy - 93 octane - (-407ft DA)
    Gone-
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings maty360414's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhvrdr View Post
    Awesome. Im moving this month nearby but going nuts with it so this summer definitely.... lets hit pbir on a Friday testntune

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
    What is PBir? Palm Beach? That's so far from where I am. Wanna do some Mexico runs

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    '13 S4 | EPL DP E40 | EPL TCU | AEM W/M | Tampa Ported S/C | 75mm TB | JHM 187 | MercRacing HX/Divorced | Becker TestPipes | AutoTech HPFP | Roc Euro Intake | BFI Engine Mounts | ECS Trans Mount | ECS F/R Diff Mount | H&R Super Sport Springs | 034 Rear Sway Bar | CR-15 | Drilled & Slotted Rotors | StopTech SS | Vertini RF 1.3 | Indy 500 | Sport Diff | BFI Shift Knob | Quattro Grill | ECS Spoiler/Diffuser | RS4 Bumper | J-Code | CWA100 |

  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Im close to coral gables as well. If yall meet up let me know.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings maty360414's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by killer_s4 View Post
    Im close to coral gables as well. If yall meet up let me know.
    I can meet with you since your close

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    '13 S4 | EPL DP E40 | EPL TCU | AEM W/M | Tampa Ported S/C | 75mm TB | JHM 187 | MercRacing HX/Divorced | Becker TestPipes | AutoTech HPFP | Roc Euro Intake | BFI Engine Mounts | ECS Trans Mount | ECS F/R Diff Mount | H&R Super Sport Springs | 034 Rear Sway Bar | CR-15 | Drilled & Slotted Rotors | StopTech SS | Vertini RF 1.3 | Indy 500 | Sport Diff | BFI Shift Knob | Quattro Grill | ECS Spoiler/Diffuser | RS4 Bumper | J-Code | CWA100 |

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    This is why i did the self bleeding intercoolers that dump back into my divorced reservoir

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings fx_warrior's Avatar
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    Could of sworn I read in one of the facebook groups that the new IC's are a problem and to get the older ones, which ever parts numbers those may be.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings theweebabyseamus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TruS4 View Post
    This is why i did the self bleeding intercoolers that dump back into my divorced reservoir
    Self-bleeding heat exchanger you mean?

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike. I don't know but my luck is no bueno lol

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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fx_warrior View Post
    Could of sworn I read in one of the facebook groups that the new IC's are a problem and to get the older ones, which ever parts numbers those may be.
    Could be, my original ones lasted me 24k miles on DP. Only thing I changed was ported blower with those "R" revision intercoolers. I only have a 183mm crank pulley 3.17 ratio

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings brs2c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fx_warrior View Post
    Could of sworn I read in one of the facebook groups that the new IC's are a problem and to get the older ones, which ever parts numbers those may be.
    I was told the opposite, and to get the R’s cause they are better made. Does anyone have a definite answer on what is the best revision?


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  14. #14
    Forum Moderator Four Rings Loe's Avatar
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    it's due to pressure build up in the system when the pump shuts off. If you install a bypass line, you'll see fluid jump up into the line. I've been running for almost 4 months without issue ever since I installed a bypass line on my reservoir (i recently had my S/C removed + cores for inspection). The fluid contained in it goes back into the reservoir as soon as the pump turns on.
    Loe P - Forum Moderator, Audizine
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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings brs2c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loe View Post
    it's due to pressure build up in the system when the pump shuts off. If you install a bypass line, you'll see fluid jump up into the line. I've been running for almost 4 months without issue ever since I installed a bypass line on my reservoir (i recently had my S/C removed + cores for inspection). The fluid contained in it goes back into the reservoir as soon as the pump turns on.
    My AMS system keeps the pump on for a little, after the engine is turned off. Do you think this helps any?


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    2013 S6 Prestige Monsoon Grey || SRM RS-7 Turbos, APR Catted Downpipes, SRM Long Intakes, DS1 Tune, SRM TCU, HPFP, SRM High Pressure Fuel Line, SRM Ethanol content analyzer, SRM Driveshaft Carrier V2, O34 Drivetrain Inserts, 034 Control Arms. || RS-Style Grill, BBS CI-R 20x10.5 Wheels.
    Previous
    2013 S4 || 3.5" Velocity Stack Intake, EPL Stage 2+, Fluidampr 183mm CP, iAbed TB, EPL TCU, AMS Alpha Cooler || VMR V804's (19x9.5 et45), 2-piece Rotors, 034 SB, 034 drivetrain & subframe inserts,

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loe View Post
    it's due to pressure build up in the system when the pump shuts off. If you install a bypass line, you'll see fluid jump up into the line. I've been running for almost 4 months without issue ever since I installed a bypass line on my reservoir (i recently had my S/C removed + cores for inspection). The fluid contained in it goes back into the reservoir as soon as the pump turns on.
    Can you expand on this? A bypass from where to where? Any chance you could write a short DIY?

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loe View Post
    it's due to pressure build up in the system when the pump shuts off. If you install a bypass line, you'll see fluid jump up into the line. I've been running for almost 4 months without issue ever since I installed a bypass line on my reservoir (i recently had my S/C removed + cores for inspection). The fluid contained in it goes back into the reservoir as soon as the pump turns on.
    Thank you Loe! This sounds like a promising fix, how do you hook up this bypass line?

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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brs2c View Post
    My AMS system keeps the pump on for a little, after the engine is turned off. Do you think this helps any?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    I have the same question also its not divorced so that may help as well?
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

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    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jflow23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cspcrx View Post
    I have the same question also its not divorced so that may help as well?
    I think a divorced system may also provide this pressure release benefit...depending on what reservoir you run. My divorced reservoir is more like a surge tank and I don’t believe it’s completely air tight. It doesn’t have to be because the s/c coolant loop won’t get that hot on its own where the coolant has to be pressurized to avoid boiling.

    I’ve been running this way for almost 30k now...

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    I’ve had my AMS system in place for also 40k miles with no issues but I don’t push my car as hard as others. Doesn’t seem like there is a common denominator with those who see them fail.
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

    11.8 @ 116mph 2487DA on 93oct file Stage 2+

    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  21. #21
    Forum Moderator Four Rings Loe's Avatar
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    i'll take a picture some time this week and post what I did, but what a relief (pun intended)
    Loe P - Forum Moderator, Audizine
    Sold: ('14 Audi S5 S-tronic: [email protected] (127.36mph highest trap)| +424 ft. D/A | 3.371 PR | full-weight/street tires).
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    What are the symptoms of leaking SC intercooler(s) other than some amount of coolant loss detected at the reservoir? For a couple years, approx. 25k miles, I have been dealing with rough/hunting idle, decreased gas mileage, decreased power output, poor throttle response, some mysterious coolant loss and some oil consumption. Some people say all signs point to PCV failure, others say it's due to excessive carbon buildup on the intake valves. I am taking the car to a shop next week to have the PCV and thermostat replaced, as well as to have the intake valves cleaned. I have asked them to inspect the SC intercoolers for leaks while they have the SC removed.

    The few times I have scanned for fault codes I have found none. Do my symptoms sound indicative of SC intercooler leak? Would a leaking SC intercooler be evident via pressure test of the coolant system? Basically time is money and I only really want to take the car into the shop for a 2 day service one time, so if I can kill multiple birds with one stone on this visit it would be ideal.

    EDIT - For reference my car is a 2015 S4 with 56000 miles, with original PCV, tstat and waterpump installed. I have not carbon cleaned the intake valves previously.
    SOLD 2015 Daytona Gray S4
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  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings
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    My AWE cold front divorced set up runs for like 5 mins after I shut the car off and it runs anytime I do anything (like open a door, etc) which is overkill but I'm approaching 50K miles (tuned for 40K) with no coolant issues / leaks.
    2015 Audi S4 APR Ultra charger with Dual Pulley 3.18 ratio, APR DSG tune, AWE touring exhaust with resonated down pipes, Red Star Test Pipes, ECS intake, AWE Coldfront (all), H&R sway bars, ECS rear diff mounts, ECS Control Arm Brace, CR-15 Front Brace

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings RWD2quattro's Avatar
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    Bummer Marco, what the heck are you running HCL .
    BMW M4CS, Frozen Blue, Full XPEL, CCB, DCT. Dinan HAS kit, Fall Line end links, Hotchkis sway bars, K&N filters, CF interior goodies. More goods are coming...
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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loe View Post
    i'll take a picture some time this week and post what I did, but what a relief (pun intended)
    Haha looking forward to that. Don't want to fix my car until I have a fix for it!

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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    What are the symptoms of leaking SC intercooler(s) other than some amount of coolant loss detected at the reservoir? For a couple years, approx. 25k miles, I have been dealing with rough/hunting idle, decreased gas mileage, decreased power output, poor throttle response, some mysterious coolant loss and some oil consumption. Some people say all signs point to PCV failure, others say it's due to excessive carbon buildup on the intake valves. I am taking the car to a shop next week to have the PCV and thermostat replaced, as well as to have the intake valves cleaned. I have asked them to inspect the SC intercoolers for leaks while they have the SC removed.

    The few times I have scanned for fault codes I have found none. Do my symptoms sound indicative of SC intercooler leak? Would a leaking SC intercooler be evident via pressure test of the coolant system? Basically time is money and I only really want to take the car into the shop for a 2 day service one time, so if I can kill multiple birds with one stone on this visit it would be ideal.

    EDIT - For reference my car is a 2015 S4 with 56000 miles, with original PCV, tstat and waterpump installed. I have not carbon cleaned the intake valves previously.
    Easiest way to find out is look at cyl 3 plug, always leaks onto it

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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scls4 View Post
    My AWE cold front divorced set up runs for like 5 mins after I shut the car off and it runs anytime I do anything (like open a door, etc) which is overkill but I'm approaching 50K miles (tuned for 40K) with no coolant issues / leaks.
    I don't have the pump, maybe I should think of getting it?

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  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RWD2quattro View Post
    Bummer Marco, what the heck are you running HCL .
    Dude, the only thing I changed was ported blower. Been running the same set up for a long time. 183mm crank, NGK Iridium plugs, AWE coldfront without the pump

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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ModItNow View Post
    Easiest way to find out is look at cyl 3 plug, always leaks onto it

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    Would I be looking for a pool of coolant, or some residue? If the latter, what does the residue look like?
    SOLD 2015 Daytona Gray S4
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    Mods: Xpel Ultimate, 3M Color Stable Tint 35%, Bilstein PSS10, Euro Code Alu Kreuz, Eurocode Sway Bars, Moog Endlinks, CR-15, Eurocode Meisterwerk ASTS, AWE Resonated Touring Exhaust, 034 Transmission Mount, HCX LED 3000k Fog Lights, Apikol Rear Diff Mount

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    Would I be looking for a pool of coolant, or some residue? If the latter, what does the residue look like?
    Residue on the actual spark plug

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  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scls4 View Post
    My AWE cold front divorced set up runs for like 5 mins after I shut the car off and it runs anytime I do anything (like open a door, etc) which is overkill but I'm approaching 50K miles (tuned for 40K) with no coolant issues / leaks.
    my AMS does this as well. Not five minutes but a minute or two for sure.
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  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhvrdr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cspcrx View Post
    my AMS does this as well. Not five minutes but a minute or two for sure.
    The ams unit acts like you cut the pwm signal i believe. Youll see a softcode for coolant pump. This is same as how my pump behaves with the pwm cut. No issues for me either.

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  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Sounds like I might need a pump, in what location do you install this? Or should I try the pump mod first?

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  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings RWD2quattro's Avatar
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    Pump mod is the least expensive (cut a wire) but you will always have a soft code but you can install a switch for on/off, up to you. If you install a switch, you can leave pump running for a few minutes after shutdown to help with cool down. Call EPL and see if they can ramp up coolant pump speed on start up or keep on for a few minutes during shutdown. My AMS pump starts up anytime I touch the car and shuts down after 3 minutes, I think the byproduct of that cycle helps prevent IC failures. By the way, I'm still on my original IC's going on 94K miles.
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  35. #35
    Senior Member Two Rings m1k3d3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loe View Post
    it's due to pressure build up in the system when the pump shuts off. If you install a bypass line, you'll see fluid jump up into the line. I've been running for almost 4 months without issue ever since I installed a bypass line on my reservoir (i recently had my S/C removed + cores for inspection). The fluid contained in it goes back into the reservoir as soon as the pump turns on.
    Isn't the factory cap designed to release that pressure at a certain point?
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  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RWD2quattro View Post
    Pump mod is the least expensive (cut a wire) but you will always have a soft code but you can install a switch for on/off, up to you. If you install a switch, you can leave pump running for a few minutes after shutdown to help with cool down. Call EPL and see if they can ramp up coolant pump speed on start up or keep on for a few minutes during shutdown. My AMS pump starts up anytime I touch the car and shuts down after 3 minutes, I think the byproduct of that cycle helps prevent IC failures. By the way, I'm still on my original IC's going on 94K miles.
    Damn 94k! Yeah makes sense, I bet having the coolant circulating through for a few minutes after helps with cooling everything down. Maybe I'll look into the pump that AWE uses since I have that system.

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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1k3d3 View Post
    Isn't the factory cap designed to release that pressure at a certain point?
    No sure but we have a divorced system (SC separated from the engine coolant loop) so we would be looking at something custom. What Loe did (bypass line connected to the reservoir) sounds promising

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  38. #38
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    Here's what my plug looked like 20190425_115943.jpeg

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  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings theweebabyseamus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1k3d3 View Post
    Isn't the factory cap designed to release that pressure at a certain point?
    The main cooling system, sure. But not the divorced s/c cooling loop.

  40. #40
    Established Member Two Rings
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    That plug certainly looks a bit off. Were you able to take off a plug that was far away from #3 to compare?

    The orange bits on the ground electrode would make me think the coolant has contaminated the combustion chamber.

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