Eurocode F/R Sway Bar Install Cost

[Mavfan1]

All, I am having my car serviced by my local dealer at months ago end. I asked them to quote installation of the front and rear sway bars. They quoted $585. Doesn’t that seem excessive?


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[scott99c2]

All, I am having my car serviced by my local dealer at months ago end. I asked them to quote installation of the front and rear sway bars. They quoted $585. Doesn’t that seem excessive?


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That's what I paid, but it also came with a loaner and someone to blame when it wasn't right.

[whats77inaname]

I pretty much did the install by myself on a lift, along with installation of their adjustable end links. It took about 6 hrs, without removing the exhaust. If their labor time is ~$100/hr, which seems to be the going rate nowadays, it doesn't seem far off.

[all_kobiwon]

I paid $200.

[Mavfan1]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the sanity check. While I have a lift in my garage at home, saving time and the convenience of a loaner is more valuable right now.


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[wwhan]

San Jose Audi says, 2.5 hours for rear bar install at $215/hr, so $538 to install just the rear bar.

The front bar is an easy install on Ramps.

The rear bar is a pain....

The issue with stock end links is difficulty in tighting the end link bolts to specified torque value with normal weight on vehicle. If you remove and install the rear bar, with ends links attached to the bar in the correct location, then torquing the lower bolt is easy, but getting the bar in place is a struggle. Taking a wheel off can make this easier.

One can do most of the work on jack stands and final torque of the lower end link bolts with the tires on ramps (if the upper end link bolt was already torqued in the correct position).

[krwalkman]

San Jose Audi says, 2.5 hours for rear bar install at $215/hr, so $538 to install just the rear bar.

The front bar is an easy install on Ramps.

The rear bar is a pain....

The issue with stock end links is difficulty in tighting the end link bolts to specified torque value with normal weight on vehicle. If you remove and install the rear bar, with ends links attached to the bar in the correct location, then torquing the lower bolt is easy, but getting the bar in place is a struggle. Taking a wheel off can make this easier.

One can do most of the work on jack stands and final torque of the lower end link bolts with the tires on ramps (if the upper end link bolt was already torqued in the correct position).

I am Installing both tonight on my A6. I took both OEM ones off yesterday, was not difficult at all. I lowered the exhaust and that was it. I can see how torquing the end link bolt is going to be stupid difficult based on its location, but I'm sure I'll get it. I'll let you guys know if I find an easy way to do anything. I did not remove the wheels to get the rear out, with a bit of finagling I was able to slide it out one side and then the other.

[krwalkman]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the sanity check. While I have a lift in my garage at home, saving time and the convenience of a loaner is more valuable right now.


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To get both of mine off including the under body panels was maybe an hour total and I am NO mechanic. I'll let you know how long the install takes. I am only doing these things when I get home from work.

[krwalkman]

Alright, So I was a little wrong. Front Sway bar on lower stiffness, per recommendation on Eurocode, Install was a breeze, maybe 30 minutes to get it on and good to go.

Now the rear was a different animal. Seemed simple at first, got it in above the exhaust and ready to go only to realize that I didn't put one of the end links on at the right angle relative the bar. So instead of taking it all the way back out I loosened it in place and rotated and re-torqued the bolt. Now that was a pain because gripping the nut so it wouldn't turn and then turned the head proved mighty difficult, but I was able to do it with two socket wrenches.

I then REALLY struggled getting everything to fit into place on the firmest setting. I probably worked for an hour alone to get one of the end links re-attached to the lower control arm. The first side wasn't too bad but having to force the other side into position was proving very difficult. A piece of advice would be to not install the bushings on the rear bar until you get the end links reattached, but not torqued down. Then put the bushings and brackets on.

All said and done The total job was probably 5 hours, got finished at 2 am, let the car warm up, and took it for a spin with the new sway bars and drive train inserts. I really like the responsiveness now and honestly, to me, it rides smoother...

Worth the time and effort.

[15 Phantom S6]

Thanks for posting your install experience, I'll be putting my Eurocode set of bars on this weekend and those tips will come in handy...

[Delfin]

I paid $200.

You got a good deal. I was charged 4.5 hours of labor, $109/hour, so $490.50 for labor.

[all_kobiwon]

I guess it was a really good deal looking back. I was quoted up $650 by another shop. I waited while they did the install, and it was around 2.5-3 hours total.

[krwalkman]

I guess it was a really good deal looking back. I was quoted up $650 by another shop. I waited while they did the install, and it was around 2.5-3 hours total.

Dang, I should have taken mine there instead of doing it myself. That's where I get most of my stuff done.

[EriCal]

A friend with a S7 like my S7 did the install on both cars in about half a day. Front is easy, rear is hard as indicated here. I am 83 and if I can do it, so can you.

Only advice I have is to obtain a set of triple square SOCKETS before you start. You are going to need them for other stuff anyway.
E.

[wwhan]

I guess it was a really good deal looking back. I was quoted up $650 by another shop. I waited while they did the install, and it was around 2.5-3 hours total....

Wow $80/hr, that is a very low labor rate, of course that was also 3 years ago. Labor rates vary a lot across the country.

[all_kobiwon]

$80 is low, and I know Berg has upt'd their rates since. I'd be curious what they are charging these days.

[cschmelz]

I did my ECode front and rear install yesterday. I also did REAR only new end links. The stock front end links are super sturdy/solid, the rears just seem a bit minimalistic with the hard plastic body and a fair amount of rubber bushing slop so I did the rear end links from Ecode as well.

As stated before removing the sound deadener takes less than 5 minutes on the front. Removal and replacing the front bar should take, at most, 30 minutes. It is super easy and the new bar just slides right in, no issue with fitment.

The rear was a pain on ramps. I dropped both exhausts off their hangers which was also easy with a large pliers/pry bar.

Removing the bar was pretty easy, but I ended up removing one side end links while still in place to make maneuvering easier (box wrench that ratchets and a socket working together)

Pay careful attention to the orientation of the bar as it is pretty easy to mess it up on reinstall and put it in backwards (don't ask how I know this)

To get it all to fit I ended up jacking the car up on just one side off the ramps, then putting the bar in, then letting it all down to have weight on wheels. Once you figure out how to get it in there, the rest is easy.

Tip, don't torque the end links on the bar (stock or aftermarket) until you get the bar in place, then torque it in place..Easy moving links makes wrestling it in place a lot easier.

Drive? Awesome, much improved cornering, less understeer, balanced w/o aggressive oversteer....PERFECT

NOTE: I don't really feel the FRONT Ecode bar is THAT much different than the stock bar as far as torsional rigidity. The rear bar is a HUGE difference and the stock bar I could twist by hand without too much effort, however the Ecode bar is super stiff and I think a majority of the improvement comes from the rear alone (but it is still nice to have a red matching set...)

[cschmelz]

Oh, one final note for the home installers....

The ride height sensors for each wheel are RIGHT THERE near where you are working and they are fairly spindly plastic. Make sure you visually identify them before you take everything apart and then avoid smacking/wacking them and snapping them in half (as a few have done accidentally)

[all_kobiwon]

Do be aware that the Eurocode end links can fail and at the price they are, it's a shame. Both of mine broke within 3,000 miles and I had to put the OEM's back on.
I did contact Eurocode, and they were of no help in replacing them.

[wwhan]

Do be aware that the Eurocode end links can fail and at the price they are, it's a shame. Both of mine broke within 3,000 miles and I had to put the OEM's back on.
I did contact Eurocode, and they were of no help in replacing them.

My rear Eurocode end links failed in about 2 years on my old B8 S4 and on my C7 S6 in about 1.5 years. I now use the OEM links. The Eurocode rear end links does make it easier to torque the upper link bolts before install.

[cschmelz]

I kept the stock rears and will keep them for such an eventuality. Mine only had 700 miles on them so they are perfect....

[wwhan]

I kept the stock rears and will keep them for such an eventuality. Mine only had 700 miles on them so they are perfect....

Were you able to use a torque wrench on the rear sway bar upper end link bolts, with the bar in the installed location?.

[cschmelz]

Yes, if you use a box wrench on the outside bolt and the wrench with a short extension it works

[wwhan]

Yes, if you use a box wrench on the outside bolt and the wrench with a short extension it works

On the B8 S4, I could only get a torque wrench on the upper bolt with either removing the shock or using a long extension and a swivel.

[krwalkman]

Pay careful attention to the orientation of the bar as it is pretty easy to mess it up on reinstall and put it in backwards (don't ask how I know this)

HA, I learned this as well in my install, that's funny. I took my swat bars off a few days before the Ecodes came in and went to put the rear in thinking, this looks right. NOPE, you can tell because the ends will push against the control arms.

Tip, don't torque the end links on the bar (stock or aftermarket) until you get the bar in place, then torque it in place..Easy moving links makes wrestling it in place a lot easier.

Good Tip, I ended up having to loosen mine to get them to line up and then re-torquing, it's a bit of a pain but wasn't bad with a socket wrench and the torque wrench.

NOTE: I don't really feel the FRONT Ecode bar is THAT much different than the stock bar as far as torsional rigidity. The rear bar is a HUGE difference and the stock bar I could twist by hand without too much effort, however the Ecode bar is super stiff and I think a majority of the improvement comes from the rear alone (but it is still nice to have a red matching set...)

100% agree, I took mine through some twisties yesterday in Colorado and pushed it a bit. Noticeable difference, really enjoyed it. Rear was the biggest change.

cshmelz, do you have any squeaking? Mine are squeaking a bit on small bumps and it is pretty irritating. I am going to take off the brackets and bushings off and add some more grease, I heard Teflon can help as well.

[SleekS7]

All, I am having my car serviced by my local dealer at months ago end. I asked them to quote installation of the front and rear sway bars. They quoted $585. Doesn’t that seem excessive?

Eurocode themselves quoted me about $800 to install both

[Mavfan1]

HA, I learned this as well in my install, that's funny. I took my swat bars off a few days before the Ecodes came in and went to put the rear in thinking, this looks right. NOPE, you can tell because the ends will push against the control arms.





Good Tip, I ended up having to loosen mine to get them to line up and then re-torquing, it's a bit of a pain but wasn't bad with a socket wrench and the torque wrench.






100% agree, I took mine through some twisties yesterday in Colorado and pushed it a bit. Noticeable difference, really enjoyed it. Rear was the biggest change.

cshmelz, do you have any squeaking? Mine are squeaking a bit on small bumps and it is pretty irritating. I am going to take off the brackets and bushings off and add some more grease, I heard Teflon can help as well.

Teflon tape and grease?


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[Mavfan1]

Eurocode themselves quoted me about $800 to install both

Thanks man


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[krwalkman]

Teflon tape and grease?


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That's what I said, but I got an email from Eurocode saying that has been an option to eliminate the squeaking for some of their customers as well, not sure how to apply it though. I replied with the question asking how.

[Four rings fan]

It's easy. I've done it before. You won't have to re-grease the bushings for a long, long time. You need two items from Home Depot. A roll of 1/2" teflon tape (89 cents) from the plumbing dept. And a tube of Green marine grease from the hardware dept. Marine grease because it plays nice with urethane bushings and won't wash out in bad weather.

Ok, so you smear a little grease on the bar where the bushing will go to give the tape something to stick to and wrap the tape around the bar about 10 times more or less. Then smear a nice thick layer of grease on top of the tape. Then put the bushing on. If you put a good amount of grease and tape on some grease will ooze out the sides of the bushings, just wipe the bar clean so your not attracting a ton of road grime to the area. That's it. The tape and grease will form a gooey mass that will never squeak again.

When I had a Mazdaspeed I went four years without re greasing my aftermarket sway bar bushings. If your a purist I'm sure you could source a nice size tube of urethane grease and use that instead of the marine grease. For me Marine grease was easy to source and it worked well.

[ericw.]

RS7 diffuser makes the job a pita. Since the exhaust inserts into the rear bumper, you have to drop the center brace, disconnect the exhaust from the mid-pipe and remove the back half of the exhaust.

[warp_ix]

RS7 diffuser makes the job a pita. Since the exhaust inserts into the rear bumper, you have to drop the center brace, disconnect the exhaust from the mid-pipe and remove the back half of the exhaust.

I managed to get the rear sway bar out without dropping the exhaust. Car needs to be on jackstands with wheels off. Need to take off the endlinks and rubber mounts, then after some trial-and-error it'll snake out.

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[ericw.]

I managed to get the rear sway bar out without dropping the exhaust. Need to take off the endlinks and rubber mounts, then after some trial-and-error it'll snake out.

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Kudos for the patience. Lol

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[Mavfan1]

That's what I said, but I got an email from Eurocode saying that has been an option to eliminate the squeaking for some of their customers as well, not sure how to apply it though. I replied with the question asking how.

Roger. I grabbed some tape and threw it in the box for the tech. I’m sure they have plenty of grease.

Appreciate the feedback from everyone.


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[AudiC7Owners]

I'm about to tackle this install soon, and plan on making a DIY video as I do it.

Question for those that know: My car is at the stock ride height right now (OEM Sport Suspension) I plan on lowering the car via H&R sport springs, but I'm doing that after I do my sway bar install. I'll be installing the Eurocode bars with the eurocode end links (Front and Rear). Would there be anything negative about installing the rear sway bar with the Rear Fitment Kit (The extended bolt for the rear end links for lowered cars) without the car being lowered at all? As in, could I go ahead and install the fitment kit on stock suspension in preparation for lowering the car in the near future, or should I just install the fitment kit when I lower the car?