Daily Drive S7 or RS7?

[fiscomi]

I'm looking into getting a new to me (used) S7 or RS7. I'm trying to figure out if it will work for me. It would be daily driven about 12k per year. Snowy and icy winters. Also would need to put a car seat and booster seat in the back. I don't want to spend a ton on maintenance (leaning toward the S7) but understand it will probably be more than a basic vehicle. Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.

[doughboy17]

I'm not sure there is a big difference in maintenance. If you are coming from a Japanese make, both could cost a "ton" for maintenance.

[NardoRS7]

If you need to drive in the snow with the RS7, buy one with the 20" wheels (as opposed to 21") or get a set of winter wheels for the car. You can't really find any winter tires/all season tires in the 21" size.

[gta7]

I daily my 2016 RS7. 31,000 miles so far.

I don’t like driving it in harsh rain feels too low and I stress about the 21” wheels. We can get debris and light road flooding. Not fun in the RS7.

I’d like to get a Q5 for winter and I don’t even have snow. Wife won’t go for it so it is what it is.

The maintenance is more on the RS7. I just replaced front and back pads and rotors and it was $4,600. Total service was $5,400 after taxes. That’s a small freaking car.

Love the car more than anything but I wouldn’t want to drive it in snow.

[FourRings115]

A second set of 20 inch wheels with a set Bridgestone Blizzaks will get you through Wisconsin winters without a problem. These cars are a perfect fun family car. My kids love the push when I hammer it (and the sound). My S6 has been completely reliable, but anyone’s reliability story on here is simply anecdotal so that’s the one place where Consumer Reports, etc is helpful. Maintenance costs are relative to the cost of the car- expensive cars cost more if you do maintenance at the dealer. Parts as well (I go through brakes quickly due to track days).

[fiscomi]

I daily my 2016 RS7. 31,000 miles so far.

The maintenance is more on the RS7. I just replaced front and back pads and rotors and it was $4,600. Total service was $5,400 after taxes. That’s a small freaking car.

Love the car more than anything but I wouldn’t want to drive it in snow.

HOLY SHIT!

[makisupa]

HOLY SHIT!

You can def have this done for much cheaper. I'm sure this was done at the dealership. Indy's will be much less, but the pads on the RS7 are easy to remove. Rotors aren't cheap though. There are a few threads floating around regarding this.

[gta7]

You can def have this done for much cheaper. I'm sure this was done at the dealership. Indy's will be much less, but the pads on the RS7 are easy to remove. Rotors aren't cheap though. There are a few threads floating around regarding this.

True for sure. It my view is as long as the car is under warranty I only want the dealership working on it. JMHO.

[makisupa]

True for sure. It my view is as long as the car is under warranty I only want the dealership working on it. JMHO.

That's fair, I understand your reasoning. My comment wasn't geared towards questioning your decision whatsoever. Just trying to be clear with the OP that this can be done cheaper, if not in your own driveway. The pads pop right out, super easy to do and rotors are rotors. I know there are a number of threads discussing how only after 20-30k miles people need new pads. There are a few different options for pads that are cheaper than the OEM set.

[kpriv]

I was just going to say the same thing. I think the biggest maintenance difference between the two will be brakes. The wave rotors are crazy expensive.


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[makisupa]

Here are a few links for reference:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...acement-at-33k

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...s-replacements

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-RS7-What-else

[gta7]

That's fair, I understand your reasoning. My comment wasn't geared towards questioning your decision whatsoever. Just trying to be clear with the OP that this can be done cheaper, if not in your own driveway. The pads pop right out, super easy to do and rotors are rotors. I know there are a number of threads discussing how only after 20-30k miles people need new pads. There are a few different options for pads that are cheaper than the OEM set.

Trust me I wish I would have just done them. I work on my 67 Mustang but not the RS7. I have all the tools and equipment needed. Maybe next time.

[makisupa]

Trust me I wish I would have just done them. I work on my 67 Mustang but not the RS7. I have all the tools and equipment needed. Maybe next time.

I'm sure wrenching on the mustang is much more fun

[daytona rs7]

I daily my RS7, including winter.

came with 21" wheels that i use for summer. I bought a set of cheap 20" wheels for winter with dedicated snow tires.

maintenance will add up. It hasn't hit me yet as i have audicare, and haven't needed brakes.

routinely without audicare DIY oil change will be close to $100 (8 quarts+filter).
or $200 at the dealer without audicare. even with audicare, you should supplement your 10k oil changes with a 5k.

you can also expect about $1000 roughly every 30k miles for a "major service". I'm sure you can cut this cost at least in half if you DIY. got to look at what they actually replace.

Brakes can also be a DIY item to save..but rotors have no aftermarket option, so Audi OEM is the only way to go. fronts can be had for $600 each, rears about $500 each. many options of pads from $25+. expect at a minimum you'd be right around $2200 for a DIY brake job.
also keep in mind that many people with an RS7 go through brakes fast. some as short as 20k miles, other much longer.

[dab]

I would say you will tune your s7 and then wish you had an rs7. It is my only car, I don't commute but seeing family and dd about 15k miles per year. Great combo of all wheel drive, performance and functionality. The boot holds more than any suv I have owned, 65 inch tv fit fine. I have the 21 inch blade wheels and instead of spending another 3-4k for winter wheel setup (very picky about my wheels) bought a set of winter tires from ebay imported from germany for 1400 with shipping. Drove it in ice and a foot of snow all good. In terms of maintenance always use an indy shop will save you significant dollars and still supports your factory warranty. With my s7 the motor mounts had to be replaced as well as the oil separator were audi maintenance and covered by the cpo warranty and done through a dealership. I did the brakes/rotor and was in new orleans and think I got screwed by an indy shop paid 4500 for the s7. If you can get cpo would recommend.

[Valpo A7]

If you can do the brake work yourself you can pick up front rotors for $600 each and a set of pads for under $100 for the RS7 platform. As long as the rotor is thicker than the minimum thickness requirements there is no need to replace the rotor when you do pads.

[CanuckRS]

I dailied an RS7 for over 4 years in sunshine, rain and plenty of snow.
I can't think of a more capable vehicle in the snow, it was a blast.
With proper winter tires i blew by pretty much everything else on the street.
Great family hauler with car seats in the back too.
The only reason not to get it is $$$.

[Dirt]

If you can do the brake work yourself you can pick up front rotors for $600 each and a set of pads for under $100 for the RS7 platform. As long as the rotor is thicker than the minimum thickness requirements there is no need to replace the rotor when you do pads.

It depends on how much thicker it is than minimum, in my opinion.

[Wkraus]

You can def have this done for much cheaper. I'm sure this was done at the dealership. Indy's will be much less, but the pads on the RS7 are easy to remove. Rotors aren't cheap though. There are a few threads floating around regarding this.

Nur technik in Burnsville MN where I live got me rotors from the Audi dealership which were $800 each and sold them to me for $600. Got the pads that are not Audi but made by same brake pad company apparently for $140 instead of $550. And did all the labor for $150. It cost me $1638 out the door for entire front set. Would have been under 3k with rear but they were still good. I won’t let myself be taken advantage of by a dealer like that!!

[ToddBagwell]

I'm in the Midwest and have daily driven my RS7 for two years now. I've never regretted getting it. If it's in budget, go for it.


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[phaphaphooey]

As others have said, for the most part, the only reason to get an S7 over an RS7 is to save money. Some prefer the DCT in the S7 over the ZF 8 speed in the RS7 but there seem to be more failures on the DCT so there are pros and cons both ways. I don't recall anyone ever posting and saying that they regretted stepping up to the RS7. I know I don't.

[fiscomi]

Thanks for all the info. Is there any major differences between the '15 s7 and the '16 s7?

[Qweklain]

Thanks for all the info. Is there any major differences between the '15 s7 and the '16 s7?

The 16' is the refresh year, so it has the updated front and rear fascias, headlight and taillight housing design to match, and the updated MMI with the noticeably faster NVIDIA chipset. I know it is faster and noticeably so because I have had both. I also think the refresh fascias look considerably better than the original. The refresh also has (on paper) like 30 or 40 more horsepower I think? I do not know if there is any actual difference in power between the original and refresh on a dyno though, someone else will have to confirm or deny that.

I personally have a 14' RS7 (as displayed in my signature) and run the 21" in the summer, spring, and most of fall and have 20" S6 Black Optic wheels for winter with Continental Winter Contacts. They're pretty decent, but I have had Blizzaks before and they are better. The Nokian Hakkapaliitta are of course completely uncontested in the winter tire game if you want to go that far. I do just fine in MN winters and have with all my Audis, all equipped with dedicated winter tires of course. Since the tires are fairly wide, I do slide more than say a car with equivalent tires 30mm+ thinner, but it has never been an issue.

[P_G]

Had my RS7 for 30 months now, is my daily driver. Car is now 4 years old, bought with 31 k miles on the clock at 18 months old, just ticked over 75k miles.

It is seriously capable, have only run the factory 21’s albeit we probably don’t get as much snow as in the US, never swapped to winters as it is so capable. Ran through 8 inches on snow on Dunlop Sportmaxx GT’s.

I have ceramics so no issues with brakes, just tested at 70k miles and only 18% worn. Supply your own oil and servicing is no more than an our S1 or RS3/4, major services when changing Quattro diff oil are GBP1k but last service which was oil & filters was £260.

Tyres around £200-250 per corner, last 20k miles even running 700+bhp and 1100+ NM.

More economical than either RS3 or RS4, lower tax, cheaper insurance. If you can find the extra 10k don’t compromise, if it has ceramics even better.


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[Roccorace]

Nur technik in Burnsville MN where I live got me rotors from the Audi dealership which were $800 each and sold them to me for $600. Got the pads that are not Audi but made by same brake pad company apparently for $140 instead of $550. And did all the labor for $150. It cost me $1638 out the door for entire front set. Would have been under 3k with rear but they were still good. I won’t let myself be taken advantage of by a dealer like that!!

Good to know! I'm in Victoria, we will have to hook up at the cars and coffee once this ridiculous weather permits...

I am in a 2017 RS7 with Milltek valved track exhaust now and had a 14 S7 with APR, intake, full Milltek exhaust, DP with no cats and both cars were awesome in snow with snow tires on 20s. Not good even on my 13 A7 that I had with performance tires. Other than that these cars are snowcats. I love both cars but miss the sounds of my S7.