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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Rebuilding the 6spd manual shifter

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    The shifter I am using for my 6 speed swap has 212k miles on it, which means it's pretty sloppy. As nice as it would be, instead of spending $500 for a JHM Short Shift Kit and Shifter Linkage I am going to rebuild and replace the parts I can to tighten it up to factory condition for under $75.

    I tried searching here but didn't find anything on the B6, just a few threads for B5s. I ran into a Polish forum here where they discussed rebuilding the shifter.

    The current slop:



    After replacing parts:



    The parts I will be replacing:

    8D0711279 - Ball Socket
    8E0711118 - Ball Joint
    8D0711901A - Rubber Damper (x2)
    8E0798151B - Shifter Linkage Kit (B6 Only)
    8E0798151C - Shifter Linkage Kit (B7 Only)


    (Picture & video credit goes to this thread.

    For the first 3 I am going with OEM from VWPartsVortex.com for $55.99 shipped. For the shifter linkage I found an aftermarket (Topran - HP115 352 (B7)) for $18 shipped vs. $40 for OEM.

    This is the current condition of the shifter:





    The only parts I cannot seem to find are the green bushing and housing slider bushing I have pictured below. I know JHM makes a replacement Derlin for the green bushing which has feedback that it causes increase in vibration, if anyone knows of any other replacements for those please let me know.





    I will update the thread once I receive all parts ordered and have them installed.
    Last edited by RDA990; 03-13-2019 at 05:27 AM.
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I couldn't find a replacement bushing for what you're talking about. My B7's shifter is super sloppy and I want that rifle-bolt precision, vibration be damned, so I'm going full JHM everything, however a buddy sent me an OEM rebuild kit which contains lots of what you picture above so I might do a compare/contrast when I dig into everything. I can post some pics on this thread in a month or so when I finally tackle this stuff if you don't mind.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Wow. I wasn't sure if that "slop" was actual wear or not, or how it's even supposed to be when new. But this clarifies it.

    FYI, I heard setting proper shifter alignment is a challenging skill to do right.

    I'm guessing the red boot one is the second ball socket "joint" that mounts to the gearbox itself.
    Curious to know if it will feel better when finished.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings V70R's Avatar
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    Post your pic of which green bushing you’re referring to, and I’ll see if I have an option that I used for rebuilding my 02X linkage in my B5
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    I can post some pics on this thread in a month or so when I finally tackle this stuff if you don't mind.
    Sure, we can keep the rebuilding info in here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spike00513 View Post
    FYI, I heard setting proper shifter alignment is a challenging skill to do right.

    I'm guessing the red boot one is the second ball socket "joint" that mounts to the gearbox itself.
    Curious to know if it will feel better when finished.
    Thankfully none of what I am replacing requires me to mess with the shifter alignment bolts. Correct, the red boot is the joint that mounts onto the gearbox. Keep in mind that there is a B6 and B7 version of the replacement kit depending on your shifter linkage.

    Quote Originally Posted by V70R View Post
    Post your pic of which green bushing you’re referring to, and I’ll see if I have an option that I used for rebuilding my 02X linkage in my B5
    I forgot to add the pictures, they are up now. The last 2 pictures are the bushings I wasn't able to find.
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    RE: those slider bushings, I don't really think you should be concerned about those adding any unwanted NVH. I'm currently running the JHM SS (just the shifter, none of the other linkage "upgrades") which includes those delrin bushings and I don't notice any increase in NVH, just nice "rifle bolt" like shifts. I think a huge amount of the slop in the shifter is a result of the wear in the ball and socket joint (which the JHM kit addresses with the spherical bearing). If anything, I think it would just help with overall shifting feel to use the delrin bushings.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    As a reference, I went through my shifter when I did my swap, at the time it only had about 90,000 miles. The ball bushing with the red cover was totally shot. Short story is the pivot ball does not last very long. Mine came from an area with road salt so I'm sure that didn't help. The rest of the shifter looked OK ( again this one only had 90,000 on it).
    2003 02X Six speed swapped, RS4 RSB, H&R FSB, B7 brakes, 2.0T stroker, DSMIC's, B7 CTS K04 turbo.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    RE: those slider bushings, I don't really think you should be concerned about those adding any unwanted NVH.
    The JHM Delrin bushing I found was for the shifter "stabilizer" arm that mounts the the transmission (green bushing in the pics). I wasn't able to find the slider bushings separately on their website.

    https://jhmotorsports.com/jhm-solid-...n-6-speed.html
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post
    The JHM Delrin bushing I found was for the shifter "stabilizer" arm that mounts the the transmission (green bushing in the pics). I wasn't able to find the slider bushings separately on their website.

    https://jhmotorsports.com/jhm-solid-...n-6-speed.html
    Might be able to contact them and see if they'll sell those separately. Also I didn't see a separate OEM PN for those slider bushings either, looks like it's only sold as the whole shift base assembly (8D0711026B).
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    RE: those slider bushings, I don't really think you should be concerned about those adding any unwanted NVH. I'm currently running the JHM SS (just the shifter, none of the other linkage "upgrades") which includes those delrin bushings and I don't notice any increase in NVH, just nice "rifle bolt" like shifts. I think a huge amount of the slop in the shifter is a result of the wear in the ball and socket joint (which the JHM kit addresses with the spherical bearing). If anything, I think it would just help with overall shifting feel to use the delrin bushings.
    For me, I know its the linkage bushings since I currently have the JHM Shifter installed and its sloppy as hell and has a strange notchiness in 5/6 where it can move roughly 1" left or right and stay there. The JHM shifter actually made this vagueness more pronounced as it lets you fell more clearly how loose the linkage is. I've actually missed a number of shifts recently due to not knowing by feel what gear I'm in and not being able to quickly go from 2 to 3 for instance. I should post a video of how bad its gotten. When I do my engine swap I'll try to take lots of pictures and maybe some videos of the slop in the various linkage pieces since I'll have the entires transmission out with the engine. Its a 2.0t but its the same 02X trans and linkage setup.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings V70R's Avatar
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    After having a few linkages apart and swapping a car over to an 02X today, the green bushing shouldn’t really need to be replaced; with the shift rod disconnected there is very little play in this bushing, all of which is supposed to be present when the shifter moves through all gears.

    The slider bushings do have part numbers for individual replacement, only problem is I cannot find my receipts how I purchased these separate from the shifter assembly for my B5. Also, I think a little play is normal in these due to their design of having to fit the rod through in which they operate on.



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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by V70R View Post
    After having a few linkages apart and swapping a car over to an 02X today, the green bushing shouldn’t really need to be replaced; with the shift rod disconnected there is very little play in this bushing, all of which is supposed to be present when the shifter moves through all gears.

    The slider bushings do have part numbers for individual replacement, only problem is I cannot find my receipts how I purchased these separate from the shifter assembly for my B5. Also, I think a little play is normal in these due to their design of having to fit the rod through in which they operate on.
    In the picture I posted part of the visible bushing is ripping with around 212k miles, I don't think it will even hold up 50k more. Take a look at this video from JHM, they did a great job showing the difference between stock and their Delrin bushing:

    (Stock is at 1:24, Delrin is at 2:07)



    The is a major difference there in movement, the Delrin literally does not move. That was with their SS, so I am not sure if stock shifter would benefit with it being that stiff.

    Thanks for the info and picture on the slider bushing, is the P/N 8887171? As for those JHM also made a video comparison of stock vs Delrin:

    (Comparison at 5:37)



    You may be right with it being normal to have some play, but again the Delrin really locks it down.
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I think under normal circumstances, yes the OEM bushing that is on the crossbar (I think) shouldn't have issues however I've had this slop and notchiness since I bought the car with 54k miles (at 99k right now). It was starkly different than my b6 with almost double the miles and the same transmission and linkage. My guess is that the previous owner was a goddamn gorilla with the shifter and they actually damaged the bushing and linkage, as the shifter ball didn't have much discernible play in it when I swapped it out for the JHM solid shifter last year. As with many things the previous owner fucked up on my car, I'm really curious to tear into things and figure out what the failure modes are for the linkage as its not right and definitely getting slowly worse over time.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    For me, I know its the linkage bushings since I currently have the JHM Shifter installed and its sloppy as hell and has a strange notchiness in 5/6 where it can move roughly 1" left or right and stay there. The JHM shifter actually made this vagueness more pronounced as it lets you fell more clearly how loose the linkage is. I've actually missed a number of shifts recently due to not knowing by feel what gear I'm in and not being able to quickly go from 2 to 3 for instance. I should post a video of how bad its gotten. When I do my engine swap I'll try to take lots of pictures and maybe some videos of the slop in the various linkage pieces since I'll have the entires transmission out with the engine. Its a 2.0t but its the same 02X trans and linkage setup.
    I see, I do still have a small amount of slop, but never really considered it an issue that would be worth pulling the trans or at least dropping it slightly in order to rebuild the linkage. I have noticed that once in awhile I'll miss 2nd to 3rd, the shifter will hit the "gate" between 1st and 2nd, hard to explain but I just attributed that to my driving ability, or lack thereof. lol.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    I see, I do still have a small amount of slop, but never really considered it an issue that would be worth pulling the trans or at least dropping it slightly in order to rebuild the linkage. I have noticed that once in awhile I'll miss 2nd to 3rd, the shifter will hit the "gate" between 1st and 2nd, hard to explain but I just attributed that to my driving ability, or lack thereof. lol.
    Maybe I'll go down to the parking garage at lunch and record a quick video of the degree of the slop in mine. Its not just a little wobbly (which would likely be solved by a JHM shifter alone) its sloppier than a 30 year old toyota. Its super frustrating and honestly one of my main drivers to get my engine rebuilt and installed so I can address the linkage stuff while the trans is out.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings V70R's Avatar
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    Take a video, I want to see this in action. CP you have the stock crossrod, right? I think this is where most of your play in your linkage is. Shifting into 5th and 6th requires the lever in the trans to fully extend outwards, and articulates the plastic ball at a funky angle. Wear in the small pivot ball (not the kit I sent ya) could prohibit the linkage from fully extending the lever outwards.

    Pic for reference-


    I installed JHM’s crossrod in a buddy’s car after having issues finding 5th and 6th gears as well, and it was a night and day difference.
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Yea everything is stock right now except for the shifter. I have the JHM crossroad as well though. I’m replacing all the things.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Rebuilding the 6spd manual shifter

    The people asked so what kind of jerk would I be to not deliver. Without further ado, my sloppy ass shifter:



    I didn’t film this but I’ve tested before with all the covers off and the shifter pivot bracket thing doesn’t move or isn’t loose under the knob and the two rods in the shifter tunnel, at least in the cabin, are bolted nice and tight. The slop is all on the linkage and stabilizer rod side. Basically all up above the transmission. It’s pretty weak sauce. And it’s been bad since 2013 when I bought the car. Not THIS bad, but still quite bad. And I’m not a gorilla with the shifter, I know how to drive a stick as I’ve been driving them more than half my life and I’m 35 now.
    Last edited by Charles.waite; 03-15-2019 at 11:02 PM.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings V70R's Avatar
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    Vid link no worky
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings V70R's Avatar
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    There we go, vid link works. Stabilizer rod and rebuild kit will take care of that. Exact same problem my buddy had with his prior to doing all that.

    MkII RNSE looks good
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Yea the MK2 Nav is much better to use. Add in AMI and its honestly all I need. From an infotainment standpoint.

    What you said more or less confirms my theory. Glad the new bits will sort it out. Its gotten SO bad recently its so awful. All the JHM goodies plus my fancy BFI heavyweight knob, and the shifter should be toight like a toiger.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    Charles - I have the JHM shifter and the rest is stock. Had it that way since I bought the car. I think I have a tiny bit of play but not much. I’d be interested in comparing to yours later this year. I also intended to update the linkage eventually.


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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings V70R's Avatar
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    Made a vid today to keep this going. GJW 1.8T 02X shifting through all forward gears. I purposely shook the shifter in sixth at the end to show where the play is in the linkage prior to rebuild.

    Xlite w/ 11spd Campy Record- 2005 Dolphin Grey Ultrasport Avant 6MT-- 2003 S6 — 2007 XC70

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Rebuilding the 6spd manual shifter

    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Avant View Post
    Charles - I have the JHM shifter and the rest is stock. Had it that way since I bought the car. I think I have a tiny bit of play but not much. I’d be interested in comparing to yours later this year. I also intended to update the linkage eventually.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    For sure! I’d absolutely be down to let you compare and contrast when you’re back in town.

    I’m ready curious how all these mods are going to pan out. I still miss how solid and direct the shifter was on my g35 and g37 coupes. If it’s anything like that after all is said and done I’ll be a very happy camper.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings Airrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post

    8D0711279 - Ball Socket
    8E0711118 - Ball Joint
    8D0711901A - Rubber Damper (x2)
    8E0798151B - Shifter Linkage Kit (B6 Only)
    8E0798151C - Shifter Linkage Kit (B7 Only)
    Do you know if these parts will work für the S4 B5 01E Shifter ?

    On 7Zap i can't find these PN's for the B5.

  26. #26
    Senior Member Three Rings Kylet21's Avatar
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    I did this rebuild tonight. A couple of things I would like to point out for anyone doing it on a B7 A4.

    -Rebuilding everything inside the car is pretty easy except for getting the circlip (see part 10 below) pressed into the little groove at the bottom of the shifter rod (see red arrow in picture below for approximate location of groove). Getting the circlip in the groove would be fine as long as you have a good pair of circlip pliers, but you also have to completely press the spring down and keep the rod from pushing down at the same time. I actually had to clamp the spring down to get it all to work.
    IMG_0483.jpg

    -On the transmission portion, this would be an under an hour job with a lift, on jack stands it was 3. Two things were challenging. The first is getting the selector rod (part 22 below) off of the selector pin on the transmission (it’s on the drivers side of the trans BTW). Once you unbolt the cap nut (part 24), you can’t just slip the selector rod off the pin, because it won’t come that far off. The key is to reach above the selector rod to where the connector rod (part 7) attaches to the selector rod. On top of this connection point in a retaining clip (part 12) that holds the two rods together. Remove this retaining clip and you can separate the two rods and then have access to remove parts 1, 2, 3, and 25 (if I knew what I just explained going into this, it would probably have been a 2 hour job). This brings me to the second difficult part. To remove part 3 from the selector rod, you need to push out the indents (see post from OP) that hold in parts 2 (retaining washer) and 3 (ball socket). This is a moth********, on your back because you can’t get the right leverage or angles. Also just as difficult to push the indents back in once you have replaced the parts. Lesson learned, buy a lift!!! Lol
    IMG_0484.jpg

    Finally, I would not describe the feeling of the shifter as rifle bolt precise by any stretch. I know that I installed everything correctly, but there is still a fair amount of side to side play in the shifter when in gear. For anyone doing this, don’t get your hopes up that this will be night and day better, and all my bits looked just as bad as the OPs.

    Hope this helps anyone attempting this in the future.


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