2003 1.8t Quattro avant front brake upgrade

[Matc1988]

Hi. I’ve been trying to sort my car out this year and get a few things done.

If what timing belt. Water pump, thermostat. Injectors. Coil pack. Engine hoses, service. Done last year.

This year is the brakes, and more power.
Can anyone give me a good upgrade of front brakes. Callipers and discs.

I would ideally like to have b7 rs4 brakes how would these fit. Or what parts would I need.

Or is there a better alternative?

I would prefer bigger discs for the look compared to smaller discs.

I have the Audi 17s 9 spoke alloys on the car.

Regards

[walky_talky20]

My brother put B7 A4 brakes (321mm) on the front his wife's B6 A4 1.8T. I borrowed it the other day and darn near smacked my face off the steering wheel at the end of the driveway. They work nice! Major transformation in stopping power compared to the tiny 288mm factory setup.

[caluma4x4]

Being a quattro it should already have 312 mm front discs, check the build sticker or just measure the disc.

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk

[old guy]

Being a quattro it should already have 312 mm front discs, check the build sticker or just measure the disc.

In the US the 1.8T came with 288mm front discs. The 3.0 came with the 312mm discs. You can use the 3.0 caliper carriers and the 312mm discs as a mild upgrade. Include some TyrolSport brake stiffeners with some decent brake pads and you will definately feel a difference without spending much $$.

[walky_talky20]

The 312mm upgrade is definitely noticeable (I have it on my B5), but the B7 A4 calipers are super cheap and probably easier to get. You can pick up the B7 calipers for 25 bucks a piece, all day. The rotors are slightly more expensive, maybe +$10 per side - but for somebody that's after RS4 brakes, I think the B7 setup comes a lot closer in terms of looks and performance. /IMHO

[Gosser]

B6 and B7 S4 calipers have longer caliper brackets to allow you to fit a 345mm disc. The caliper itself is all the same, its just the bracket thats different, so you get that larger looking rotor. Depending on your wheels ET, you might not clear any of the larger brakes. Hoses are all interchangeable. C6 A6s also have the same style of caliper, but not sure of the bracket spacing at all. There are a few C6s at the yard that I was going pull to see for compatibility. B7 A4 are pretty plentiful, and cheaply acquired. Those calipers/rotors alone will be a significant increase from what the 1.8t came with.

[studiobmx]

I’ll have a full set if b7 A4 brakes with ECS drilled rotors and ebc pads available soon. I just have to do my 17z brake upgrade (prolly next few weeks). Pm me if you want more info and pics. They work great


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Spike00513]

which new water pump gave you so much power that now you need RS4 brembos

because I need that water pump

I’ll have a full set if b7 A4 brakes with ECS drilled rotors and ebc pads available soon. I just have to do my 17z brake upgrade (prolly next few weeks). Pm me if you want more info and pics. They work great


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

I've heard good things about ECS Geomet slotted rotors; I assume there are multiple kinds and that you got the drilled one. I think there's even a mix; drilled and slotted. I heard slotted rotors can crack but I'm not sure if I believe that because performance cars seem to come with them stock no problem, such as Mercedes AMG's.
Never tried EBC's and I wonder which one you're getting. I assume they have multiple models, though I've heard the model "Yellow Stuff" before many times.

B6 and B7 S4 calipers have longer caliper brackets to allow you to fit a 345mm disc. The caliper itself is all the same, its just the bracket thats different, so you get that larger looking rotor. Depending on your wheels ET, you might not clear any of the larger brakes. Hoses are all interchangeable. C6 A6s also have the same style of caliper, but not sure of the bracket spacing at all. There are a few C6s at the yard that I was going pull to see for compatibility. B7 A4 are pretty plentiful, and cheaply acquired. Those calipers/rotors alone will be a significant increase from what the 1.8t came with.

Is it? Hopefully it is. I recall something looking the same far away, but being a bit different closer up. Maybe it was the brackets I'm thinking of. I don't mean from a size perspective of how far they extend the caliper to make it from 321mm or 345mm.

I mean the B7 carriers (IIRC) bow out at the corners, which may dictate wheel clearance dimensions. Whereas the S4 ones, despite being bigger (345mm) and older (B6), are more of a straight cut shape. Though maybe both can clear stock wheel sizes.

I forget if S4 rear hubs are needed to install S4 brakes, or if it's just a plus option compatible with them that people prefer for the benefits of less unsprung weight, bolt-in wheel bearing design, and so on.

My brother put B7 A4 brakes (321mm) on the front his wife's B6 A4 1.8T. I borrowed it the other day and darn near smacked my face off the steering wheel at the end of the driveway. They work nice! Major transformation in stopping power compared to the tiny 288mm factory setup.

I wonder if it's worth going 345mm. I think diagnosticator did, though I'm not sure if he tried 321mm to compare.
I've heard other reports of people going S4 345mm and being happy with good performance, looks, and no reduction of fuel economy

[Fast4esT]

I have b6 s4 brakes on my b6 avant, friends b7 2.0 sedan stops just as well. I may need to bleed mine but his pedal feels better. Less travel to bite, both on hawk hps pads

[walky_talky20]

I wonder if it's worth going 345mm. I think diagnosticator did, though I'm not sure if he tried 321mm to compare.
I've heard other reports of people going S4 345mm and being happy with good performance, looks, and no reduction of fuel economy

The major benefit of the 321mm size is that you can still fit OEM 16" wheels. This is especially useful for winter traction domination.

[Gosser]

Why are smaller diameter wheels better in snow? To allow for more side wall?

[old guy]

Why are smaller diameter wheels better in snow? To allow for more side wall?

More sidewall and a narrower tread width while maintaining the same overall diameter. High profile tires do a lot better job digging through the snow than low profile tires.

[fR3ZNO]

Generally the smaller wheels are also narrower which is regarded as being better for traction in snow, in addition to smaller wheels=cheaper tires.

old guy beat me to it, lol.

Narrower tires "cut" through snow better as well as the contact patch being longer versus a wider contact patch desirable for summer tires.

Clicky Click

Another way to think about this is from the perspective of the contact patch. A tire's contact patch or "footprint" greatly influences its performance. On the same vehicle, the area of the contact patch essentially remains the same with different width tires. When the footprint gets narrower as it will with a narrower width tire, it has to get longer. And the mechanics of the longer footprint help with the longitudinal traction for acceleration and braking.

which new water pump gave you so much power that now you need RS4 brembos

[EuroxS4]

I have 17Z 6 piston q7 calipers on the front of my avant.17Z are definitely the ones to get to be honest, without a breaking the bank.I think total I have about $450-500 in the swap.only drawback is you need to find the rotors with the correct offset.Or get your caliper ears milled or a combination of the two.I had mine milled and im currently using volvo v70r rotors in the front.Couldnt be happier.Stops great!!

[fR3ZNO]

How long ago did you do your swap? 17Z caliper prices have gone up quite a bit since word got out about how easy the swap was. I can see it being that cheap if you snag the calipers from a junkyard for like $25/each. lol

[oaybar007]

I have the B7 brake upgrade on my list. I think it's the best practical route as said, plus brake stiffeners, new lines and good fluid.

I like the ECS Geomet rotors as well. My current setup is their slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Installed 9 years ago and I'm long overdue for a refresh. I will say that even on the tiny stock rotors the car stopped really well without any noise. Just a good amount of dust so it's a trade off. I would definitely recommend them but not sure on prices for brakes these days. When I bought them they were pretty affordable. I bought the pads from TireRack on sale so it was the ultimate budget refresh in that sense. Good stuff all around though.

[DasWagen]

I have b7 a4 fronts and b6/b7 s4 rears as I did them at separate times and wanted to keep 17s on in the front (as b7 a4 & s4 calipers are identical, but the s4 carriers require 18s). I am quite happy. I'd say to find a b7 or s4 in a pick-a-part junkyard and pull all the hardware off. The LKQ near me is silly cheap.

[DasWagen]

Also the 3.0 rear upgrades are not worth the price imo. The cheapest brackets are off a donor car or $120 from eBay. At that point replace the caliper as well

[fR3ZNO]

I have the B7 brake upgrade on my list. I think it's the best practical route as said, plus brake stiffeners, new lines and good fluid.

I like the ECS Geomet rotors as well. My current setup is their slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Installed 9 years ago and I'm long overdue for a refresh. I will say that even on the tiny stock rotors the car stopped really well without any noise. Just a good amount of dust so it's a trade off. I would definitely recommend them but not sure on prices for brakes these days. When I bought them they were pretty affordable. I bought the pads from TireRack on sale so it was the ultimate budget refresh in that sense. Good stuff all around though.

I'm in the same boat as you right now. Been considering going B7 A4 all around as a good middle ground upgrade.

Currently have the stock calipers with the bushing upgrade, coated rotors, StopTech Sport pads and stainless lines. I've autocrossed this setup as well with no issues... works pretty well for my car which sees daily driver duty 99% of the time, lol. FYI RockAuto prices are good for brake stuff, just the performance pad selection is lacking, StopTech/Centric really being the only ones.

[Spike00513]

I have b7 a4 fronts and b6/b7 s4 rears as I did them at separate times and wanted to keep 17s on in the front (as b7 a4 & s4 calipers are identical, but the s4 carriers require 18s). I am quite happy. I'd say to find a b7 or s4 in a pick-a-part junkyard and pull all the hardware off. The LKQ near me is silly cheap.

? I thought S4 345mm's could still fit around 17" wheels
maybe not then

All this stuff will require fluid work; I wonder if the Motive Power Bleeder is still the best product for this. As well as the best way to maintain it, and if any attachment upgrades are useful.
for example, if it should be rinsed out with brake cleaner to avoid leaving DOT4 inside that could dry it out, especially the clear plastic hose.



some dealerships may use this (electric)
wow nevermind didn't know they're $2k



for example Motive seems to have two
the 1100 European adapter



and the 1109 European adapter



If your goal is B7 calipers, why not get Q5? There seems to be some on car-part.com (junkyard inventory database) for a decent price. The Q5 is getting older, more are being crashed.
idk if Porsche Macan ones also fit (might kinda be the same car)

the 321mm version, not 345. 4-piston Brembo aluminum monobloc

idk pros and cons of solid vs. floating caliper design.

[fR3ZNO]

Do not use brake cleaner in the Motive power bleeder, it states this right on the side of the container. They recommend denatured alcohol to clean it out. One way of avoiding cleaning it, is to use it dry. As in, top off the master cylinder as you need it, and not to put any brake fluid in the Motive itself. Which I think kinda defeats the purpose of it, but eh.

[Spike00513]

Do not use brake cleaner in the Motive power bleeder, it states this right on the side of the container. They recommend denatured alcohol to clean it out. One way of avoiding cleaning it, is to use it dry. As in, top off the master cylinder as you need it, and not to put any brake fluid in the Motive itself. Which I think kinda defeats the purpose of it, but eh.

I usually place it in the engine bay somewhere close enough to hang the line from the hood using a bunjee cord, to have a vertical column of DOT4 above/entering the reservoir. To make sure it's completely full and prevent from forcing air into the system. So that air bubbles can also rise out.

[DasWagen]

? I thought S4 345mm's could still fit around 17" wheels
maybe not then

All this stuff will require fluid work; I wonder if the Motive Power Bleeder is still the best product for this. As well as the best way to maintain it, and if any attachment upgrades are useful.
for example, if it should be rinsed out with brake cleaner to avoid leaving DOT4 inside that could dry it out, especially the clear plastic hose.

My B7 fronts have no clearance with the stock 17s. No idea how a larger carrier would fit in there. Also, make sure to not overpressurize with the Motul bleeder and to do any brake upgrades with the battery unplugged/a scan tool. Swapping the rear calipers caused one of the two brake circuits to seal itself up to protect from leaks. I was dead set that I broke something before figuring it out.

[Gosser]

Also the 3.0 rear upgrades are not worth the price imo. The cheapest brackets are off a donor car or $120 from eBay. At that point replace the caliper as well

I feel you on the 3.0 rear brackets. They are kind of an odd ball size and no one carries them. The wreckers here though seem only only have 3.0s arrive, I think there are like 4 there now. Its sad to see, I loved that motor.

[Gosser]

I usually place it in the engine bay somewhere close enough to hang the line from the hood using a bunjee cord, to have a vertical column of DOT4 above/entering the reservoir. To make sure it's completely full and prevent from forcing air into the system. So that air bubbles can also rise out.

Wait, you are filling the Motive Bleeder with fluid? News to me. I never even thought that was possible. I always do it dry, sure you need to remove the cap and top up. Much rather that than degrading the hose and having it constantly weep out after use.

[BARRY]

17z calipers fit under factory 17's, this is how i get my winter tires on. they don't fit under B7 S-line 18 inch wheels without a 20mm spacer.

[Spike00513]

Wait, you are filling the Motive Bleeder with fluid? News to me. I never even thought that was possible. I always do it dry, sure you need to remove the cap and top up. Much rather that than degrading the hose and having it constantly weep out after use.

I mean it came with a suction straw that goes inside the Motive to the bottom, to suck up brake fluid
I made my own out of a garden sprayer before but it didn't work as well
for threaded connections I put teflon. Not sure if I used tape or liquid teflon

only time I ruined the hose was because I left brake fluid sitting in it
in which case if it's only secured by oetiker clamps, hopefully I can find out where to source a replacement (maybe any hose of the right dimensions would work).
which they may sell in their spares catalog

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/spares

[fR3ZNO]

I mean it came with a suction straw that goes inside the Motive to the bottom, to suck up brake fluid
I made my own out of a garden sprayer before but it didn't work as well
for threaded connections I put teflon. Not sure if I used tape or liquid teflon

only time I ruined the hose was because I left brake fluid sitting in it
in which case if it's only secured by oetiker clamps, hopefully I can find out where to source a replacement (maybe any hose of the right dimensions would work).
which they may sell in their spares catalog

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/spares

Just go to Lowe’s and find some vinyl hose with the appropriate ID, they sell it by the foot. Probably way cheaper than what motive would sell it to you for

[Matc1988]

So I am best getting some b7 carriers callipers and discs 320mm for the price.

This should fit my b6 1.8t with out any need for any other parts?

Thanks for the advice.

[fR3ZNO]

So I am best getting some b7 carriers callipers and discs 320mm for the price.

This should fit my b6 1.8t with out any need for any other parts?

Thanks for the advice.

Yep. Fully bolt on

[EuroxS4]

How long ago did you do your swap? 17Z caliper prices have gone up quite a bit since word got out about how easy the swap was. I can see it being that cheap if you snag the calipers from a junkyard for like $25/each. lol

About 2 or 3 years ago.I picked up the calipers used for $150 spent $100 to have them cleaned,rebuilt and powder coated by a friend.

[fR3ZNO]

About 2 or 3 years ago.I picked up the calipers used for $150 spent $100 to have them cleaned,rebuilt and powder coated by a friend.

Not bad, I think I paid like $200 used for a set in 2016 but ended up getting rid of them after I changed my mind about it.

[Kevin C]

Pick and Pull A4 B7 calipers cost me $110 for a set of four. Rotors were about $100 for four plain coated Raybestos and rebuild kits were under $50 as were pads. For rebuilt calipers and coated new rotors that's about as low cost as you are going to get.

[Matc1988]

I’ve just had a look at the front brakes.

Who ever had the car last( I’ve had it two years but only drive it once a month)
Had put 288mm disc with 312mm callipers so the brake pads have worn only 3/4 of the pad.

So it’s better for me as I now only need to buy new discs and pads. As the callipers are fine and for 312mm discs thanks for all the info and help

[fR3ZNO]

That's crazy. lol. Pics please.

[Spike00513]

That's crazy. lol. Pics please.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Who ever had the car last( I’ve had it two years but only drive it once a month)
Had put 288mm disc with 312mm callipers so the brake pads have worn only 3/4 of the pad.

Sadly, been there, done that. When I first got my B7 calipers, apparently the junkyard sent me a B7 caliper on one side, and a A6 caliper on the other. In my haste to get them installed, I didn't initially notice this. <insert red face here>

The brakes actually worked fine - eventually I noticed and got the correct caliper bracket (it's just the bracket that is different for the larger rotor used on the A6).

Any way, I'd also vote for the B7 front caliper and rotor as a nice, inexpensive upgrade for a B6.

[Matc1988]

I’m not sure if my friend who is doing ilthe work (a mechanic for seat) took any pictures. But spotted it straight away, so I ordered bigger disks. Piranha 312mm drilled grooves and coated discs as these es were about £60 delivered for the pair. Which I think is a good price.

Although he had trouble removing the pinch bolts for the suspension arms. Finally got there after a couple of hours. Seat have a special tool to remove them although this doesn’t fit my audi b6 unfortunately

[fR3ZNO]

Yep, it's pretty common to fight with that pinch bolt unless you live in California or similar region, lol.

[Spike00513]

Sadly, been there, done that. When I first got my B7 calipers, apparently the junkyard sent me a B7 caliper on one side, and a A6 caliper on the other. In my haste to get them installed, I didn't initially notice this. <insert red face here>

The brakes actually worked fine - eventually I noticed and got the correct caliper bracket (it's just the bracket that is different for the larger rotor used on the A6).

Any way, I'd also vote for the B7 front caliper and rotor as a nice, inexpensive upgrade for a B6.

They're different?
Last time I searched B7 A4 front calipers on car-part.com, a bunch of A6's also came up in the search results
I'm not sure if they're under the impression it's the same for some reason; I don't know if it is or not
or if a simple same rotor diameter led them to believe that
I haven't checked ETKA to compare all the brake part numbers between them