S-Tronic DL501 mechatronic repair in the U.S.

[Ape Factory]

I'm starting this thread as a repository for information related to mechatronic repair for the RS5's DL501 mechatronic and most may also apply to the S5, S4, S6, etc.

It seems strange, given the number of Audis here in the U.S with the S-Tronic, there isn't a rebuilding service for the mechatronic which is the most common failure on this otherwise very robust gearbox.

From what I've read so far, there are two more common areas of failure. First is the electronics board which can fail due to heat. Audi sells an upgraded unit (it's actually two pieces) which is more robust with a larger heat sink and a number of other improvements. Second, the solenoids themselves fail due to mechanical wear. With the solenoid failure, the modus operandi is to just replace the entire mechatronic at a high cost. There are two solenoid failure areas, one is for the clutch control and the other is for temperature. There are a series of solenoids used for clutch control and they can wear. Likewise, there is a solenoid in the cooling circuit mechanism and when it fails, the transmission can overheat.

I've seen videos on Youtube of mechatronic repair for some of the other S-Tronics like the longitudinal DQ series. I've not seen anyone tackling the DL501.

A bit of googling brought up a company in Poland that is in fact repairing the mechatronics and even going so far as to rebuild the solenoids. I also noticed, on eBay, there are kits available with not only the wiring harness but they also include solenoids! All of those kits are from China and I would not touch them with a 10 foot pole. I don't know where the solenoids are sourced from and they do not list the RS5 as being compatible. This leads me to believe the solenoids/actuators in the RS5 mechatronic may be different from others in say an A5.

If you have the time, take a look at the Maktrans web page as it's a good read. I've sent them more than a few questions and I'll report back on my findings.
https://maktrans.net/rem-ob5-500

As I said, I'd like to find a competent shop here in the U.S. capable of fixing these instead of just replacing them.

Also, if anyone has a busted mechatronic from an RS5, and is willing to give it up, I'll pay for shipping. I'd like to take a hard look at all the solenoids and see if I can figure out how to source them and how easy it is to replace them.

If anyone else has info about mechatronic repair, post it up!

[Ape Factory]

This is an interesting video of an individual repairing a VW mechatronic. It's not from the DL501 but it does show you solenoids being replaced as well as causation for TCU failure. He opens up the TCU and goes over what's most likely to fail and why. Basically comes down to old fluid, fluid that's too thick, and vibration. Old/fluid that is too thick does not transfer heat as well and the wires which connect the plugs to the main ECU board end up breaking due to overheating and vibrations. The wires become brittle.

[Ape Factory]

Found a source for solenoids and a few other parts. I still need to acquire a broken mechatronic to get the part numbers off of all the solenoids. Will need the year it came off of as well as the transmission version. You can find this via the VCDS.
https://www.sonnax.com/units/329-dl501

More parts and sources...
https://cobratransmission.com/0B5-Transmission-Parts

[Ape Factory]

Another forum member found a place near Chicago that repairs RS5 mechatronics. Don't know how good they are, prices, or what sort of warranty there is but I intend to find out.

It's about thirteen posts down currently, but there are photos of someone replacing the solenoids in the mechatronics unit.
https://www.facebook.com/profiperfor...zxvUaDIPlFXLMs

[Ape Factory]

Here's a breakdown of many potential issues encountered with the DL501 S-Tronic with the cause of the issues explained as well.

https://www.drive2.com/l/466702829768146955/

[tmacs4]

A bit of googling brought up a company in Poland that is in fact repairing the mechatronics and even going so far as to rebuild the solenoids. I also noticed, on eBay, there are kits available with not only the wiring harness but they also include solenoids! All of those kits are from China and I would not touch them with a 10 foot pole. I don't know where the solenoids are sourced from and they do not list the RS5 as being compatible. This leads me to believe the solenoids/actuators in the RS5 mechatronic may be different from others in say an A5.

If you have the time, take a look at the Maktrans web page as it's a good read. I've sent them more than a few questions and I'll report back on my findings.
https://maktrans.net/rem-ob5-500

I'm surprised I haven't seen more posts about this company; any additional findings from them? I'm interested to know if this will be an option. I have a 2011 (built in 2010) B8 S4 that I'm about to replace the circuit board in now; looking for options in case the circuit board does not completely fix the issue.

[Ape Factory]

I'd try the place in Chicago. Maktrans never got back to me. It looks like Sonnax may have all the parts necessary to replace all the solenoids and gaskets as well as the internal thermostat.

[03TLSinCO]

I'm surprised I haven't seen more posts about this company; any additional findings from them? I'm interested to know if this will be an option. I have a 2011 (built in 2010) B8 S4 that I'm about to replace the circuit board in now; looking for options in case the circuit board does not completely fix the issue.

Have you looked at this?

https://www.shopdap.com/make-model-y...f-vw-audi.html

Not sure if it has all that you need, but happened to run across it this morning.

[Ape Factory]

That's the electronic circuit board. It's redesigned with a larger heat sink and I suspect a few components that can take more heat. ECS sells the updated board as well.

In addition to the electronics going bad, solenoids and the internal thermostat can go out of spec causing issues.

[tmacs4]

I'd try the place in Chicago. Maktrans never got back to me. It looks like Sonnax may have all the parts necessary to replace all the solenoids and gaskets as well as the internal thermostat.

Thanks. Will reach out to place in Chicago if necessary.

Have you looked at this?

https://www.shopdap.com/make-model-y...f-vw-audi.html

Not sure if it has all that you need, but happened to run across it this morning.

That's the electronic circuit board. It's redesigned with a larger heat sink and I suspect a few components that can take more heat. ECS sells the updated board as well.

In addition to the electronics going bad, solenoids and the internal thermostat can go out of spec causing issues.

My mechanic is about to actually install that new revised circuit board. I was just doing some research in case there are other issues; would prefer not to spend $2-3k for a new mech unit if it just points to a particular solenoid. This post pretty much confirmed what I was thinking; just curious why more US based shops aren't repairing if it is indeed possible.

[Ape Factory]

Thanks. Will reach out to place in Chicago if necessary.





My mechanic is about to actually install that new revised circuit board. I was just doing some research in case there are other issues; would prefer not to spend $2-3k for a new mech unit if it just points to a particular solenoid. This post pretty much confirmed what I was thinking; just curious why more US based shops aren't repairing if it is indeed possible.

That's the million dollar question. It isn't hard to repair one. The solenoids and gaskets all bolt on to the valve body. I think it's just been easier to replace the whole unit with less downtime.

[Jake@JHM]

Thanks. Will reach out to place in Chicago if necessary.





My mechanic is about to actually install that new revised circuit board. I was just doing some research in case there are other issues; would prefer not to spend $2-3k for a new mech unit if it just points to a particular solenoid. This post pretty much confirmed what I was thinking; just curious why more US based shops aren't repairing if it is indeed possible.

What are the codes you are getting?

[tmacs4]

What are the codes you are getting?

7980 P072600 Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Range/Performance (00101000 passive/sporadic)

My mechanic has said based on the TSB the circuit board is recommended for this code.

My symptoms were 2-1 jerk (violent at times) and a shuddering when accelerating; almost like gear engaging / disengaging continuously.


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[Jake@JHM]

7980 P072600 Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Range/Performance (00101000 passive/sporadic)

My mechanic has said based on the TSB the circuit board is recommended for this code.

My symptoms were 2-1 jerk (violent at times) and a shuddering when accelerating; almost like gear engaging / disengaging continuously.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Yea that is listed on the TSB and calls for the mech repair kit. This is the newest revision for the repair kit: https://jhmotorsports.com/mechatroni...nsmission.html

[hahnmgh63]

Just leaving this out here, check out Suburban Auto group, I just purchased one. www.Suburbanutoparts.com

0B5-398-009-F Repair Kit $380.16 1 $380.16

[Sharper_Image]

Check out this video, https://youtu.be/GOvM5xQZPec he talks about this shop Profi Performance they rebuild the mechatronic unit.

Heres their website. https://www.profiperformance.com/

[Ape Factory]

Very interesting and confirms much of what I've been preaching and the reason I designed a transmission cooler kit. One issue, when he says 210F for the protection trigger, it's definitely much hotter than that, at least in the RS5. His is triggering at 120F which is due to the control module (PCB issue). The OEM trans coolers in the B8.5 is the same system as the RS5 (just on the other side of the radiator) uses the coolant to "cool" the fluid and it's at 200 degrees. The temps, normally, run between 90-100C when just cruising, more when you get on it. Thermal protection kicks in in the high 230F range generally although I've logged it even hotter when doing multiple runs on a hot day and only triggered thermal protection once. Runs much cooler with the addition of my trans cooler kit.

I actually mentioned profiperformance in post #4. I'm debating a full mech rebuild just because I have a 2013 and I know they're a bit more prone to failure. Would rather nip it in the bud than get stranded. Due for a fluid change in 10K miles so I'll probably pull the mech then.

[Sharper_Image]

My '13 B8.5 is at the dealership right now for a transmission malfunction code. I only had it for 1 day not even a full 24h from the time i purchased it, miles at 82k. My symptoms were a little different than others. Drove home from NJ to RI non stop 4h straight no problems or any issues with shifting, taking off, stopping ect. Next day went shopping driving on the freeway got the yellow transmission malfunction continue driving, then the warning light turn red and the clutch disengaged, the car was still in Drive. Pulled over and shut the car down waited 5 minutes start it back up got all shorts of lights, again yellow transmission light on. Put the car in Drive stepped on the gas the car moved then beeped then warning light turn red and clutch disengaged again car goes into every gear just fine P, R, D, had the car towed home. Next morning the car was fine drove it around the neighborhood like nothing even happened. I'll keep everyone updated if the dealer finds anything.

[Ape Factory]

REALLY sorry to hear that. Sounds like they most likely sold you a car with a known problem. Any recourse?

[Sharper_Image]

Still waiting on the dealership to call me back. I really love the car and i refuse to give it up just because of a transmission problem, been researching on these transmission like crazy. I hope the dealership finds the problem and fix it. Hopefully this will buy me some time to set aside some money for future repairs. Im also im thinking of looking at used transmission online thinking about buying one and have the known failure parts replaced and just keep that spare transmission as a backup, i thought about extended warranty but i wanna mod my car so idk if this route is a good option.

[Ape Factory]

Well the big issue is the mechatronic and heat. Parts are available now to rebuild a mechatronic from the ground up and it's not terribly expensive. Plus you should be able to update to the latest/greatest components that Borg Warner makes (I plan on doing this soon). It's also possible to swap the mechatronic in and out on your own if you have mechanical ability and the proper tools.

Heat and improper service intervals kill the internal components on the mechatronic and Audi really should have designed a proper cooler for the car. Luckily, there's an aftermarket trans cooler available :) I've seen some evidence that clutch residue hastens the life of some of the components but all the fluid that touches the clutch cooling circuit and clutches goes through the big filter on the bottom of the mech before bathing various components inside the mechatronic. It's heat, plain and simple.

The rest of the gearbox is pretty damn solid. It's capable of handling 800Nm of torque and 10,000 rpm. Clutches could wear out eventually too but that's no reason to purchase another transmission. Most of the consumables are relatively cheap so I'd forego buying another transmission unless you find one inexpensively and plan to upgrade a bunch of stuff like the clutch packs for power upgrades like a supercharger.

[BuyTheWarranty]

Do you know what version the 2015’s have for a mechatronic and control module? Curious if they are built to withstand.

[Ape Factory]

They have the latest/greatest version, so updated PCB and plug with larger heat sink. I don't know if the solenoids or seals have evolved over time or not. The other two things that seem to go bad are the pressure control valve and the clutch thermostat. Both can be bought separately.

[Sharper_Image]

Yeah i might be better off setting money aside for a mechatronic rebuild, i gotta call Profi Performance to see how much they charge and whats the turn around time. So i managed to scan some codes before the dealership took the car this is what i found, i think the Shift position sensors are bad.


6088 - No Communication with Transmission Control Module.

6506 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)

17596 - Selector Lever Sensor P179E 00 [040] - Electrical Malfunction

17598 - Selector Lever Sensor P179E 00 [040] - Electrical Malfunction

17600 - Selector Lever Sensor P179F 00 [044] - Malfunction

20196 - MIL Request from Transm. Control Module (SAE) or Control
Module Defective (VAG)

8464 - Supply Voltage: Terminal 15 P1758 00 [040] - Open Circuit

8126 - Internal Control Module - Processor Performance Monitoring

8345 - Internal Control Module - Processor Performance Monitoring

Found this thread on external DSG cooling. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ler-discussion

Check out Will Ferrell rebuilding the DL501. https://youtu.be/G5OBQvI2A0E

[SSSSS5]

Check out this video, https://youtu.be/GOvM5xQZPec he talks about this shop Profi Performance they rebuild the mechatronic unit.

Heres their website. https://www.profiperformance.com/

Was going to post this guy's youtube channel (R2SWIFT). He has a great deal of videos about the b8.5 platform, including 8 or so on the mechatronic unit.

[Ape Factory]

Check out this thread on DSG cooling. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-A5-S5-and-RS5

More later when I have time.

[Sharper_Image]

Check out this thread on DSG cooling. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-A5-S5-and-RS5

More later when I have time.

Damn awsome work on the Crash Bar and Transmission cooler will be interested once i get my car situated.

Got the call back from the dealership and they said they sent it to Audi and found nothing wrong with the car. They said they scanned, found codes, delete, drove around, re scanned and nothing.

[Yoda1]

Just stopped at my mechanic's and he's working on one of these trannies.Attachment 157037Attachment 157038Attachment 157039

Sent from my SM-N950U using Audizine mobile app

[Sharper_Image]

This company sells the mechatronic rebuild kit with solenoids it says VW Oem but im not too sure though. https://www.oemvwshop.com/0b5398048d...6-q5-p2231018/

[Ape Factory]

If you're purchasing from Europe, Maktrans is probably a better solution and they do ship to the states. They may have a full rebuild kit, dunno. I know an S6 owner on the forum just purchased from them. Otherwise find a Sonnax dealer here in the states. A lot of the kits on eBay are from China. I don't know where those solenoids are being made but the OEM solenoids are Borg Warner items (same company who makes the transmission).

https://maktrans.net/audi-vw/0b5/Sol...-0BH-0B5-50221

[NickS]

It might be helpful to list which model years this affects.

[Ape Factory]

It might be helpful to list which model years this affects.

Pretty much ANY car with the Borg Warner DL501. That includes the entire 4 and 5 series line (A, S, RS) A6, S6, A7, S7, Q5, Porsche Macan, etc...They tend to get more reliable in the later years but all years can still have failures. Pre-2012, a lot of the S4 guys were having issues. It' s not a given, there are many, many cars which have gone without a single gearbox failure. I think like any mass-produced, complicated piece of modern machinery, it's a crap shoot but one with known flaws.

I do think there are things you can do to prevent failure and increase it's longevity. Changing the ATF fluid and filters every 20K miles and adding a real transmission cooler.

[Jayboom05]

This company sells the mechatronic rebuild kit with solenoids it says VW Oem but im not too sure though. https://www.oemvwshop.com/0b5398048d...6-q5-p2231018/

I just bought that kit (before I even saw this post) my '13 S5 gave me the "no reverse" warning jerky shifting from 1st to 2nd and 3rd and got P17D600 P17D700 P286800 P276300 clutch 1&2 pressure too high clutch A&B pressure too high

It comes with solenoids so hopefully that fixes the clutch issue and the cooler solenoid and of course the new circuit board should help.

It gets here Tuesday I'll keep you all posted

Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk

[mkiii2.0jetta]

Found a good video that shows a guy servicing a DL501.

https://youtu.be/G5OBQvI2A0E

[hahnmgh63]

Great video, wish it showed more detail on the Mechatronic electronics as that is the part that usually fails and what Audi sells in a replacement kit, around $400, another $150 for the filters and fluid since you are pulling the pan. I think the dealers charge around $1500+ to install it.

[last_mile]

I just bought that kit (before I even saw this post) my '13 S5 gave me the "no reverse" warning jerky shifting from 1st to 2nd and 3rd and got P17D600 P17D700 P286800 P276300 clutch 1&2 pressure too high clutch A&B pressure too high

It comes with solenoids so hopefully that fixes the clutch issue and the cooler solenoid and of course the new circuit board should help.

It gets here Tuesday I'll keep you all posted

Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk

Hey

Sorry to bump up an old thread.

How did this kit repair go? Did it fix the issue?

[alexanderg1215]

Hey

Sorry to bump up an old thread.

How did this kit repair go? Did it fix the issue?

was wondering the same thing, just got a car with same issue and I was wondering any there was any successful repairs out there yet with the kits mentioned?

[Anodo]

Hi All,


I think I am starting to have some mechatronic failures as well. Yesterday, I got a transmission malfunction error along with a TPMS fault code. I scanned with VCDS and found P0726 and P174B codes in the log. Not sure if it is the same as mentioned here. @Ape Factory, any thoughts?

Address 02: Auto Trans (J217) Labels:| 0B5-927-156.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 927 156 H HW: 0B5 927 156 J
Component: 0B5 42 FSINAR H02 0006
Revision: --H02--- CVN: 00001219
Coding: 000001
Shop #: WSC 02391 785 00200
ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDL501021 001025
ROD: EV_TCMDL501021.rod
VCID: 42DD41A00406443A017-8016

2 Faults Found:
7980 - RPM Signal from ECU
P0726 00 [01100000] - Implausible Signal
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 0
Reset counter: 0
Mileage: 192 km
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 16:00:32

Engine RPM: 1.25 /min
Transmission input speed: 1 /min
Transmission output speed: 84 /min
Engine torque: -96 Nm
ATF temperature: -40 �C
Accelerator pedal position: 64.0 %
Clutch status: Kupplung 2 kann Moment �bertragen
Unlearning counter according OBD: 0

18023 - Valve 3 in Transmission Part 1
P174B 00 [01100000] - Electrical malfunction
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 102698 km
Date: 2024.07.21
Time: 16:21:26

Engine RPM: 1222 /min
Transmission input speed: 1222 /min
Transmission output speed: 370 /min
Engine torque: 60 Nm
ATF temperature: 83 �C
Accelerator pedal position: 8.0 %
Clutch status: Beide Kupplungen k�nnen Moment �bertragen
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Voltage terminal 30: 13.600 V

[blubaru]

has anyone used the kit to successfully rebuild their mech unit? I am debating trying it for my 16 S6, was going to reach out to Maktrans and Sonnax to see what all I need.