For those that just want the short version and then scroll through the pictures, light output is great, paint job came out nicely and matches the rest of the BO package pretty well. I had previously updated the lights with a kit from EMTuning (in the UK) which was probably about 80% of the light output of this kit so that actually is a good option for those looking for more light output with a lot less effort.
As far as parts go, I picked up this kit for theretrofitsource.com https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mo...-bi-xenon.html. The brackets for this kit won't work because Valeo decided to mount these different than most of the other European models, so the one's you want are actually for a 14-18 GMC Sierra. A couple of notes on things you will need:
1. Get new ballasts, the stock D1S ballast will not power the D2S bulb in the new projector. I got the XB55 ballasts from Morimoto. Note that these will also come with the D2S igniters, which juuuust clear the door that seals the light.
2. New bulbs, I prefer the CBIs, I am trying the Morimotos because they were sold out, but might switch back, just need to give them some run time and see.
3. Order a 9006 female pigtail, the stock solenoid connector is Valeo proprietary so needs to be cut and the 9006 spliced in, which will mate to the new projector solenoid.
4. You will either need to find a connector that connects to the stock ballast input power connector, or get another 9006 and cut/splice again. You will also need the right sized rubber grommet to seal the hole in the housing. Since I had the EMTuning kit before, I was able to just reuse that part.
5. Various hardware. Mainly you will use M4x.70 at various lengths, some will come with the kit, but I ended up needing some nylon spacers, etc. as described below.
6. I bought a polycarbonate sheet and made mounting brackets for the ballast in the stock location. This will be up to however you want to mount it.
7. Butyl sealant to put everything back together.
I don't have pictures of taking the lights apart, but suffice it to say they it's a big pain in the nuts. Start on the bottom of the lights and work your way around. Mine probably were in the oven 4 or 5 times, 240 degrees for 20 minutes. I got a spare set of lights to work on since it took some time and needed the car still. I would even suggest getting a busted one for cheap on ebay just to practice opening one. The second went a lot better than the first. The permaseal crumbles and makes a mess so make sure to clean the channel out well, and be prepared to make some repairs to the outside of the channel. You need to get to the back of the channel to break the seal and there are some special tools out there to do that and make it easier.
Once the lights were apart, I separated the lens from everything and painted the shroud around the acrylic tube. Be VERY careful and take your time as some parts are pretty thin and there are a number of tabs to work simultaneously to remove it. I was going to just paint the back of the reflector to give it a smoked look, but I didn't tape the front off like I should have and got some overspray on it, so just did the whole thing.
The next part was to mount the new projector, buy a dremel if you don't have one. There are tabs on the housing for aligning the old projector, they need to be filed off.
You also need to clearance the rest of the mounting bracket in the housing to clear the hardware/projector itself. The cross piece along the top/bottom, and one of the ribs on the side need to get done to fit everything.
For the projector mounting bracket, I had to go add some nylon spacers to cleat the projector hardware as seen here.
Once that was together, it was really just test fitting and then using the butyl to put it back together. Pardon that the lens is a little dirty.
Everything should pretty much swap over to the other light if you got a spare, I cut the polycarbonate sheet to the right shape and mounted the new ballast to the stock location. The D2S igniters also have a silicone grommet, if you drill a hole right over the high voltage symbol, it fits nicely. I could only get two mounting bolts for each ballast, and then one of the mounting points sits on the housing, it's still very secure and isn't going to move. I used nylock nuts for everything so they wouldn't vibrate out.
Last piece is to install on the car and aim them. Pull the bumper off, remove the screws for the tray and headlight, and wiggle it in a variety of incovenient ways until it comes free. Way better to have another pair of hands for the job if you can. This helps when putting everything back in to align them in the right spot on the bumper and everything.
Not sure if I would do it again, I really like the results, but it was a huge pain opening up the lights and then having to make the plastic repairs. It was a fun project, but for about the same cost as the projector kit, you can get really good output with the EMTuning kit (probably even a little better with e-code lights since the lens is clearer.
Lastly, no, the headlights don't project the audi rings out onto the road like the bat signal, and it doesn't have any appreciable impact on light output. If anyone has any questions let me know, but figured I would at least share in case anyone was interested. I can try and get some better pictures later as well, these are just from my phone and the glare makes it a little hard to see some times.
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hopefully you can make it out to one of the local meets to see them in person
Originally Posted by PNW Avant
Great write up as well. The pictures are super sharp what camera you are using?
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