best hose clamps?

[Spike00513]

I'm about to install a new suction jet pump and reverse 710N,
I broke the old one-time-use clamps off, and thought about taking them to a specialty hardware store to match sizes to new identical ones. They have the same PITA single-use ones.

However, I often see in DIY's, people switch over to worm-gear style. Supposedly, these bite into the hose and can only last to many uses (loosen and re-tighten) before it deteriorates the hose. I suspect this won't happen as long as you don't overtighten it.

What is the best clamp?
To install these parts, can I get away with using just basic worm-gear ones?
The flared out kinds are called "embossed" I think, and the flaring might preserve the hose better. (new hoses might be a good idea at this age and miles anyway though...)

I'm sure there's many other clamp designs as well. Solid-band type, etc.

Right now I'm eyeing this, only $6 from Harbor Freight



One thing that seems like a positive with these is at least I can tighten them.
Without taking the whole car apart, removing old clamps is hard enough. IDK if I have room to tighten new factory ones with my CV-joint clamp pliers tool. A worm gear using a hex bit or screwdriver seems easier.

[Audibot]

I bought an Oetiker clamp tool and set of clamps off Amazon a couple years back. Haven't used them often but I feel a bit better than trying to use regular hose clamps, especially to have an OE look for something I don't plan on removing.

[VR6Bomber]

2nd vote for pinch clamps.
You can get a pinch clamp tool for like 10 bucks and they do have a 'cleaner' more oem appearance.

There's always the chance of worm clamps loosening up.

[Spike00513]

I bought an Oetiker clamp tool and set of clamps off Amazon a couple years back. Haven't used them often but I feel a bit better than trying to use regular hose clamps, especially to have an OE look for something I don't plan on removing.

2nd vote for pinch clamps.
You can get a pinch clamp tool for like 10 bucks and they do have a 'cleaner' more oem appearance.

There's always the chance of worm clamps loosening up.

wow the vote is 2-0, first time I'm seeing this

I wonder what tool. I know this one exists but I wonder if there's any that work from the side, because one clamp I intend to use is the tiny one that plugs into the 710N nipple, and I don't think these would fit/access it.



I have these that I've used on CV boots before, and other things like a shift knob clamp, because it's the only tool I had.
It already broke once but the store honored a free warranty replacement. I think the broken one had defective metal quality.



the small hose that goes to this nipple had the stock clamp deep in the recessed part of the 710N. IDK how the factory got it on there.

[VR6Bomber]

oh,
I just put a small zip tie on that little 710 recessed nipply thing. lol

[MetalMan]

Fuel injection hose clamps are a great choice as well. I bought a multi-pack of them to fit a variety of hose sizes. I use them in more frequently accessed locations, otherwise I too prefer Oetiker clamps (which I bought a multi-pack of also).

For intercooler hoses/piping, I like either the original hose clamps (which have springs) or ABA clamps. No T-bolt or regular auto parts store clamps.

[xalents23]

My choice of clamps are ABA clamps they are pricey but worth it.

[Audibot]

They do make side jaw Oetiker pliers. Gotta search for them though.

[Gosser]

oh,
I just put a small zip tie on that little 710 recessed nipply thing. lol

x2, have done it on multiple diverter valves over the years.

[Spike00513]

They do make side jaw Oetiker pliers. Gotta search for them though.

Found these by Knipex (high quality German brand?), side and front jaw integrated into one, $22



I think I used this type once

[Spike00513]

what about Clic-R clamps?

[DPDISXR4Ti]

My choice of clamps are ABA clamps they are pricey but worth it.

X2. I use these on everything. Any time I remove one of those constant-spring clamps they go right in the garbage and replaced with an ABA hose clamp. The spring-loaded ones are used as OEM only because it's faster to assemble a car that way.

Note that they're not actually SS, but galvanized steel. They hold up just fine. Look under the hood of my A4, Alfa, Merkur, sprinkler system, whatever - that's all you'll find.

For the small lines that are closer to fuel line size, I use SS fuel line clamps as used on many Japanese applications. I get mine mostly from Subarus at the junkyard.

[Spike00513]

X2. I use these on everything. Any time I remove one of those constant-spring clamps they go right in the garbage and replaced with an ABA hose clamp. The spring-loaded ones are used as OEM only because it's faster to assemble a car that way.

Note that they're not actually SS, but galvanized steel. They hold up just fine. Look under the hood of my A4, Alfa, Merkur, sprinkler system, whatever - that's all you'll find.

For the small lines that are closer to fuel line size, I use SS fuel line clamps as used on many Japanese applications. I get mine mostly from Subarus at the junkyard.

I'm gonna google where to get those. Hopefully they don't lose tension over time like people say, or have a weak enough screw mechanism to the point where it can't lock down a good tight force.
I've seen fuel line clamps in use on some fuel line hoses, but IDK if the factory only chose to put them on certain ones that may for example be a low-pressure suction line or something, to the point where there's not a lot of pressure the clamp needs to hold tight.

But I guess if you're saying they work, then they work. I imagine a good way to pick what clamps to order online or something, is to measure the diameter of the hoses they're intended to go on, by using measuring calipers.

[9744RR]

I'm about to install a new suction jet pump and reverse 710N,
I broke the old one-time-use clamps off, and thought about taking them to a specialty hardware store to match sizes to new identical ones. They have the same PITA single-use ones.

However, I often see in DIY's, people switch over to worm-gear style. Supposedly, these bite into the hose and can only last to many uses (loosen and re-tighten) before it deteriorates the hose. I suspect this won't happen as long as you don't overtighten it.

What is the best clamp?
To install these parts, can I get away with using just basic worm-gear ones?
The flared out kinds are called "embossed" I think, and the flaring might preserve the hose better. (new hoses might be a good idea at this age and miles anyway though...)

I'm sure there's many other clamp designs as well. Solid-band type, etc.

Right now I'm eyeing this, only $6 from Harbor Freight



One thing that seems like a positive with these is at least I can tighten them.
Without taking the whole car apart, removing old clamps is hard enough. IDK if I have room to tighten new factory ones with my CV-joint clamp pliers tool. A worm gear using a hex bit or screwdriver seems easier.

I've using these style clamps for over 15 years in my GTRS powered A4. No problems ever with these.

[Gosser]

For the small lines that are closer to fuel line size, I use SS fuel line clamps as used on many Japanese applications. I get mine mostly from Subarus at the junkyard.

Good to know about the subarus, I'll definitely check those out the next time I'm at the yard. I love those constant spring type clamps. I hated them before I bought this:


They make a world of a difference when removing and reinstalling them. I only use the ones on the bottom with the smaller heads. They lock too, so if you compress one, slide it out of the way, you can leave the tool attached to for quicker reinstallation.

[Spike00513]

Is there a good tool to cut off OEM clamps?

I think Knipex has high-leverage cutters.



Tin snips are pretty good at cutting but IDK if they'd work well for this.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I'm gonna google where to get those. Hopefully they don't lose tension over time like people say, or have a weak enough screw mechanism to the point where it can't lock down a good tight force.

I've had no issues with them loosing tension. The only time they failed to fully do the job for me was when I used them as an exhaust clamp. Clearly that's not what they're designed for and knew it, but they sorta did the job any way. I just ruined the clamp by over-tightening it with a 7mm box wrench.

[EuroxS4]

The reason why your not supposed to use worm gear clamps like those form HF is eventually the metal cuts into the rubber hose.

[Hypnotoad1]

I like fuel hose clamps they give pressure all round and don't seem to cut into the hose or fail as much as the worm drive type, only down side is that you have to have the correct size clamps they don't have as wide a range and worm drive type.

[Chris M]

1. best choice is oetiker ear clamps unless you need to remove it often for maintenance. this tool is awesome.
https://smile.amazon.com/d/Industria...oetiker+pliers
2. fuel line clamps are good for all around sealing but they do tend to be thin, but work well.
3. as for the worm drive you need to find a non perforated ones like the ABA ones mentioned. you can get these in stainless. perforated ones will cut into soft hoses.
4. spring types are nice but not good if there is pressure. typically see these on vac hoses or return lines.

[fR3ZNO]

4. spring types are nice but not good if there is pressure. typically see these on vac hoses or return lines.

What? You're joking. Factory clamps for the coolant hose to hard pipe and the lower rad hose to the expansion tank are all spring type clamps... (cooling system is under pressure)

[Spike00513]

1. best choice is oetiker ear clamps unless you need to remove it often for maintenance. this tool is awesome.
https://smile.amazon.com/d/Industria...oetiker+pliers
2. fuel line clamps are good for all around sealing but they do tend to be thin, but work well.
3. as for the worm drive you need to find a non perforated ones like the ABA ones mentioned. you can get these in stainless. perforated ones will cut into soft hoses.
4. spring types are nice but not good if there is pressure. typically see these on vac hoses or return lines.

Damn
So that did not pop up on eBay or Amazon because I searched "oetiker pliers" and not "oetiker pincer". Ended up getting the Knipex one.
This new SJP I just installed seems to be leaking; hopefully I used the tool right and didn't cause a hose connection issue or something.

I just pulled up ETKA to look up various clamp part numbers in the area, to search their size on ECS. It appears some are used by Porsche for half the price.
Buying an oetiker assortment kit would probably be simple, but might not have enough.

So...many...clamps...

[Spike00513]

ordered this kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



It's 7-21mm size, 6+ pieces each. I figure that'll cover me to put a new PCV valve, re-connect my Kayser 710N (might have to change it from reverse to stock), and some other stuff.
That way I can see which ones deplete, to stock up on them.
I'll see if the plastic box it comes with is enough to organize them, vs. large bin trays or dedicated a toolbox drawer to them or something, with dividers inside.
I imagine this is what Audi/VW shops do.

Hopefully there are no drawbacks to them being from China. Rust-resistance might not matter that much in the engine bay, regarding what metal the clamps are made out of.
Guess I'll find out if the car ever needs under 7mm or over 21mm.
I just don't want to drive far to a specialty hardware store each time I need 3 clamps, or order them online for $2/ea

Home Depot sells clamps but they cost more because they sell them in large packs, though I don't think assortments

[a4bradsd]

My thoughts on clamps, but keep in mind I am a somewhat OCD engineer. Lol

I don't think the Oetiker Ear clamps are so great - virtually every old, small ear clamp on vacuum hoses of my 2002 Audi are loose i.e. the hoses are no longer clamped firmly because the rubber shrinks over time, and you really can only replace these clamps if they are already pinched to their minimum diameter. BTW I don't usually cut these off as it requires a pretty large and powerful wire cutter. I like to break the clamps where the band overlaps using a small pair of wire cutters or small, thin edge flat blade screw driver to start prying it up, as in Figure 1 and 2. I've been able to remove most clamps this way.

Worm clamps work well IMHO but only if you use ones that are going to be closed near their max diameter. If more than a 10mm range from max to minimum diameter, they do deform a lot if you tighten them to their smallest diameter, mainly due to the flat side of the screw mechanism. I like the German made Norma stainless clamps that have the rolled edges and the grooves are imprinted on the outside, not perforated, so that the worm screw doesn't tend to cut into the rubber. I found a store in S CA that has a decent assortment of Norma clamps, both 9mm and 12mm band widths: CAP Hardware Supply. Worm clamps will be the most round, and the gear mechanism less likely to create gaps, if tightened close to their maximum diameter; you just need to get them big enough so they slip over the hose after it is pushed onto the nipple, or put them on the nipple, push the hose on, then work them over the hose so they don't have to slide over the bump. With some forethought when installing them, they can be oriented so that they can be tightened easily no matter what tight space they are located in. All the Norma clamps have a 7mm hex screw head - I prefer to keep all the clamps the same on the screw size so I don't have to switch sockets for different clamp styles.

The 8-12 x 9mm clamp (Figure 3) works well on the vacuum lines which tighten to around 11-12mm. The clamp can be opened to about 13mm and slips on easily.

Spring clamps: all the coolant hoses use the 12mm wide spring clamps. The problem with these clamps, although they are uniformly round and maintain constant clamp pressure, is that they can deform when pinching them open enough to get the hoses off - particularly old ones that have been heat tempered. I would say throw them away and buy new ones particularly if they have been pinched open more than once. They do deform, and the paint or black coating cracks and flakes off, and if measured you will see that their resting diameter is larger or out of round. Also compare a fresh clamp to a used clamp and you will see that you can pinch the used clamp slightly with just finger pressure.

For coolant hoses, most all of these clamp bands are 12mm wide which increases the surface area over which pressure is applied. I suspect for coolant hoses this spec is not just arbitrary. So, I am very reluctant to replace the spring clamps on coolant hoses with 9mm width worm clamps. Most of the worm clamps available are only 9mm band widths. There are some 12mm width Norma worm clamps which I have used, but more limited diameter ranges available. Once again IMHO the max diameter of these clamps should be chosen to be near to the closed diameter, because the 12mm wide Norma clamps are very, very stiff. I was going to use the 16-27x12mm Norma clamp (Figure 4) on the oil cooler hoses, but closing them down to 23mm, they deformed a lot and were not very round at all, so decided to stay with the OEM spring clamps. I usually try and shape my worm clamps to the target diameter before installing them by finding a hex socket with similar OD to the hose, and clamping the clamp around the socket as tight as possible and maybe use some heat. This certainly gives a good preview of gaps around the screw band. I find the 16-27x12mm worm clamps are just right for the ~3/4" ID coolant hoses which need about 26-27mm clamping diameter when closed.

Worm clamp torques? I have seen in the Bentley manual recommended torque of 2.5Nm for coolant hoses and 3.0Nm for air hoses, but don't know if this applies to worm screw clamps. Oetiker clamps can have closing torques too if the crimping tool supports it (food for thought).

Hose_Clamps.jpg

I signed onto this post to get opinions on using high pressure fuel line clamps, particularly for the small diameter vacuum hoses.
Seems like I have read complaints about the bolts on these clamps loosening, more so than worm clamps. If that is true wouldn't locktite applied to the threads help? I certainly wouldn't want to go to the extent of safety wiring them. So definitely looking for feedback and experience using these.
Do some models have locknuts? Availability? Best brands? Suppliers?

Summary:

Oetiker style ear clamps:

Advantages:

• round and smooth when closed

Disadvantages:

• one time use
• difficult to remove
• can't be tightened over time
• must be precisely sized to the application
• need special tool to install

Spring style clamps:

Advantages:

• round and mostly smooth when closed (but still will leave impressions in the hose)
• maintain constant pressure over time and don't need to be re-tightened

Disadvantages:

• limited re-use; may deform each time they are pinched open
• more difficult to remove than worm clamps as much force is needed (vise grips vs. special tool)
• must be precisely sized to the application

Worm clamps:

Advantages:

• easily re-tightened
• no special tools required for installation or removal
• available in most corrosion resistant stainless steel
• one size clamp can fit many closed diameter ranges
• high re-usability
• can tighten these to spec with a normal torque wrench
• widely available and cheap
• some models can be opened and installed without having to slip off the hose

Disadvantages:

• some are better than others with regards to cutting into hoses
• when closed to minimum diameter may be out-of-round and less uniform pressure applied around entire hose
• still should be sized close to its maximum open diameter
• can break or strip screw if over tightened

Fuel-line/t-bolt clamps:

Advantages:

• very smooth and round when closed
• uniform clamping pressure
• easily re-tightened
• no special tools required for installation or removal
• available in most corrosion resistant stainless steel
• high re-usability
• can tighten these to spec with a normal torque wrench

Disadvantages:

• must be precisely sized to the application
• screw may tend to loosen (this is hearsay on my part; not confirmed)
• less commonly available in a wide variety of sizes than worm clamps

[a4bradsd]

Spike00513 The Suction Jet Pump parts are easy to break, particularly the old ones. The newer part number 058-133-753D (D suffix) has glued screw on cap and are more reliable - less prone to split or crack. Aftermarket versions vary but from photos can be seen whether it has screw on cap. For instance, the Vaico brand sold on ECS Tuning has screw on cap. My old one (A suffix, last replaced 2010) could not hold a vacuum with other ports capped, yet I could not see any cracks or obvious damage.

[a4bradsd]

X2. I use these on everything. Any time I remove one of those constant-spring clamps they go right in the garbage and replaced with an ABA hose clamp. The spring-loaded ones are used as OEM only because it's faster to assemble a car that way.

Note that they're not actually SS, but galvanized steel. They hold up just fine. Look under the hood of my A4, Alfa, Merkur, sprinkler system, whatever - that's all you'll find.

For the small lines that are closer to fuel line size, I use SS fuel line clamps as used on many Japanese applications. I get mine mostly from Subarus at the junkyard.

Do you have a source for these ABA clamps?

Are they available in 12mm band widths?

Some worm clamps have stainless bands and steel screws. BTW some grades of SS are magnetic. The most corrosion resistant SS are not magnetic, such as 316 aka W5 SS.

I would guess that number 1320 is probably the grade of steel.

As far as the spring clamps, they have a purpose in that they provide constant pressure, even as the hose deforms and shrinks (up to a limit of course). They are the only clamp that does so (well I think there are some screw clamps w/ springs). The Oetiker do not, and cannot be tightened. All the screw type clamps can be tightened as part of general maintenance, but really, does the average person much less a mechanic know what is the proper tightness for a screw clamp on a radiator hose??? I think the issue with the spring clamps is that they can be deformed/damaged when pinching open during install removal.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Do you have a source for these ABA clamps?

I've mostly gotten them from '80/90's Saabs at the junkyard! But those are getting rare nowadays - I see them for sale on Amazon.

For smaller sizes, I often use the fuel injection clamps as sourced from junkyard Subarus and other Japanese vehicles. I've never had a problem with them opening.

[fR3ZNO]

FCP Euro carries the Gebi clamps in various sizes. Clicky Click

Just sort all parts by low to high price and they're all on the second page or so. I like to throw a bunch in my cart if I'm a few dollars short of free shipping.