I had a much older rack than the Switchhitter and it was installed via the T-Track hardware that slots into the Thule T-Track. I'll start by saying I highly recommend RM and their products, just not this T-Track/Euro slotted design that many manufacturers use. I was driving on a gravel road, slowly, and hit a bump and my bike came swinging down on the side of the car. The T-Track hardware literally ripped straight through the Slotted track, metal sheered straight up on the Thule bars (hardware was in tact) and the rear stayed attached but bent up. I talked in depth with both Thule and RockyMount, they were both stellar, great customer service. Thule's stance was we do testing on our own bikeracks and not 3rd parties like RM, they sent me brand new racks both front and rear no questions asked. The owner of RM contacted me directly and walked me thru their testing process. Very long story short he said he has only ever seen this on a few cars in his companies existence and they were a 911 Turbo, M3, and fully modded STI... never an SUV or non high perf sports car. I had this Thule/RM setup on my SQ5 for 2.5 years but I ride my bike 120 days a year and tend to drive rather aggressively. Also had a couple trips to Crested Butte in that time where I drove on off-road trails, tenderly but still it isn't recommended for roof racks to carry bikes off-road (most companies have this disclaimer on website/manual). My point was the roads in Denver can be harsher than some of these backcountry dirt/gravel roads if you avoid rocks/potholes/waterboards and drive slowly. His main point was they test their racks for 10 yrs of abuse, all racks fail its a matter of how long it takes and how much force. RM ensures all their racks will last 10 yrs of abuse on a standard vehicle. Thule does a 40mph crash test, one crash, if it holds, its good in their eyes. His point was the low profile tires, tight suspension, etc all lead to extremely increased metal fatigue.. my 10 yrs took 2.5 yrs. He agreed to pay me back for the Euro Pitchfork racks and adapters I bought over 7-8 yrs ago (were on prior vehicles) and half of my deductible (have comprehensive insurance). Super nice guy, just doesn't recommend those types of racks on high performance vehicles.
The Switchhitters are dope, my buddy has them. I would just recommend using the hardware that wraps all the way around the bar. Believe you have both options with those.. It is a little less "clean" but way more sturdy/reliable. I'll close with the fact that I've had RM racks on my last two cars (stg2+ B8 A4 & Stg3 WRX wagon both on coils/sways) with zero failures, using the slotted t-track. I'll just won't ever recommend them to an enthusiast with a hi-perf car again. Definitely depends on amt you use them, roads your on, and how you drive. I also have 30lbs Enduro bikes, not 17lbs road bikes.
Happy Hauling!
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by mkasperzak
Bookmarks