Ceramic Coating? PPF?

[trophies]

All,

Looking to Ceramic Coat my vehicle. I was looking at CeramicPro but I'm knew to this whole protective scene so any other recommendations are welcome. Are the benefits true? I'd love to have some extra shine to my vehicle, protect it, and ease the washing process + make the car hydrophobic when the rain hits.

I know it's permanent or pretty close to permanent. What about PPF? Pretty expensive for the whole vehicle, was looking to just do the mirror caps, front bumper, partial hood and trunk deck. Thoughts? XPEL?

[s vier]

All,

Looking to Ceramic Coat my vehicle. I was looking at CeramicPro but I'm knew to this whole protective scene so any other recommendations are welcome. Are the benefits true? I'd love to have some extra shine to my vehicle, protect it, and ease the washing process + make the car hydrophobic when the rain hits.

I know it's permanent or pretty close to permanent. What about PPF? Pretty expensive for the whole vehicle, was looking to just do the mirror caps, front bumper, partial hood and trunk deck. Thoughts? XPEL?

Just remember that you do ppf first and then any ceramic coating over the top. Also, I would recommend doing the entire hood unless you want an unsightly line you will never stop looking at across your hood.

[midam96]

I’ve used Xpel ultimate since car was new 2013 great success with it. I would suggest front clip ,front fenders and complete hood. Mirrors can dine though I didn’t and haven’t any chipping there. You might want to discuss with installer how you want the Ppf folded in around every place possible in 2013 my install was very well done. I had to replace the front clip recently due to running over a semi truck tire. The recent installation in 2018 was from a different shop they utilized a computer to Pre cut everything which left visible gaps around lights etc... if I’d have known the differences I would have tried to offer more cash to have a little more care done to eliminate that look. I really think first install was done with much more care. Just a sign of the Times Pre cutting of the film may b cheaper to install but doesn’t look nearly as good. Overall the ppf is a very good idea. IMHO

[esfyve]

If you are looking to do it yourself, Gtechniq and CQuartz are fairly forgiving.

[CollecTTor]

Just remember that you do ppf first and then any ceramic coating over the top.

Ceramic over clear bra? Or am I missing something?

[trophies]

Can someone give me a TLDR for washing technique besides the two bucket + mitt method? Debating if I should save myself the money..

Or, what if I decide to actually wrap the car down the road, thinking a Porsche chalk grey. If I did a clear bra PPF now then that would be pointless right? Maybe even hold off on ceramic coating if the probability of wrapping my car a new color is even in sight?

[s vier]

Ceramic over clear bra? Or am I missing something?

Ceramic is always last as it makes it so nothing sticks. If you ceramic the car and THEN try to ppf or wrap it it won’t stick very well.

Anyone who wants to really protect their paint from the get-go should ppf the whole car the day it gets purchased and then ceramic coat it a few days later. In 5-10 years you can pull off the old ppf and you still have a brand new car underneath less any small paintless dent work.

I have ppf on 100% of my painted surfaces including the ECodes and Carbon mirrors. Best part is the lazy details. I wash it with hot water once a year (attach hose to laundry tub) and all the small scratches smooth out. I plan on getting it ceramic coated at some point.

[trophies]

Jeeze, paint correction and ppf and then ceramic coat? $$$

I think my best bet would be to do a paint correction then wrap the whole car (if I do change colors) and leave it at that. Ceramic coat that if needed..

Otherwise stick with Ibis white, clear bra the focused parts, and then ceramic coat.

[RVJ]

If you’re going to just PPF the front then do the entire hood as mentioned. Also, may want to do the 4” on the roof in front of the sunroof as well.

And yes, you do the ceramic over the PPF. Keep in mind ceramic is not “permanent” as it takes abuse from the elements and washing. It does need to be redone periodically. The amount of time between re-coating is dependent on multiple factors (harsh winters / summers, parked outside a lot vs. garage, etc.) but I’d say every 24 to 36 months.


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[CollecTTor]

Ceramic is always last as it makes it so nothing sticks. If you ceramic the car and THEN try to ppf or wrap it it won’t stick very well.

Anyone who wants to really protect their paint from the get-go should ppf the whole car the day it gets purchased and then ceramic coat it a few days later. In 5-10 years you can pull off the old ppf and you still have a brand new car underneath less any small paintless dent work.

I have ppf on 100% of my painted surfaces including the ECodes and Carbon mirrors. Best part is the lazy details. I wash it with hot water once a year (attach hose to laundry tub) and all the small scratches smooth out. I plan on getting it ceramic coated at some point.

The first part is common sense. I just didn't realize people applied ceramic to films/wraps. My car came with PPF but was recently repaired in the front end. Insurance compensated for it, but I'm just going to wait 30 days for the paint to cure then ceramic coat it. I've had too many issues with PPF in the past: yellowing, cracking, peeling, bubbles, etc.

[JamesRS5]

Modern PPF doesn’t do any of those so don’t be put off by the old versions. My car probably gets more UV than an average car on here and I’ve had zero issues in 2 years.
Ceramic coatings as good as they are for gloss and ease of cleaning are in no way a match for PPF when it comes to protection against chips and scratches.

OP,
CeramicPro is old school now, look at Gyeon Quartz Syncro or gtechniq CSL with a top coat of EXO IV if you want to ceramic coat and do it your self but you’d ideally want to do a paint correction before applying. If you’re taking it to a detailer, look for a Kamikaze authorised guy and ask for the Zipang coat, this is the latest and greatest coating with semi self healing properties.

I went for a full Xpel Ultimate PPF and then Kamikaze Collection Film Coat on mine, pretty insane gloss and hydroscopic properties. Wheels now have Gyeon Rim sealing them.

[trophies]

Modern PPF doesn’t do any of those so don’t be put off by the old versions. My car probably gets more UV than an average car on here and I’ve had zero issues in 2 years.
Ceramic coatings as good as they are for gloss and ease of cleaning are in no way a match for PPF when it comes to protection against chips and scratches.

OP,
CeramicPro is old school now, look at Gyeon Quartz Syncro or gtechniq CSL with a top coat of EXO IV if you want to ceramic coat and do it your self but you’d ideally want to do a paint correction before applying. If you’re taking it to a detailer, look for a Kamikaze authorised guy and ask for the Zipang coat, this is the latest and greatest coating with semi self healing properties.

I went for a full Xpel Ultimate PPF and then Kamikaze Collection Film Coat on mine, pretty insane gloss and hydroscopic properties. Wheels now have Gyeon Rim sealing them.

Thanks for the info James! Full XPEL Ultimate looks quite costly.

Let's say I'm going to have my S5 for another 2 years or so and I'm averaging 8-9,000mi a year..summers can be harsh in CA sun and winter time it sees some rain but NO snow. I'd love to know the front of my car is protected for occasional highway driving but I'd love to have hydroscopic properties and a nice shine on my car as well...I'm thinking I'd have to do a paint correction before ceramic coating (as mentioned most places I've read), then apply PPF where I want, and then do the car in ceramic coating..is this correct?

[03TLSinCO]

Also on this subject, since the order of application/process is PC, PPF, then CC, how long can/should you realistically wait between PC & CC? I'm looking into this now and may have a few month delay between the paint correction & ceramic coating. I have a guy in my area (VERY highly recommended) that will do the PC & CC, but since I need to do the PPF between the 2, I'll need to wait a few months before he can get to the CC (he'll be away).

I do realize it would be best for a minimal delay between PC & CC, but that just doesn't seem to be in the cards. Anyone have experience with a delayed CC application?

[03TLSinCO]

Additionally, I'm getting slightly different responses from PPF installers (both highly regarded in my area) and my detailer as to when to install the PPF. One PPF installer says definitively after the CC, the other was less positive, but indicated that the process could go either way. My detailer has never heard of an issue with installing a clear bra after having ceramic coating done. My preference is to have the PC & CC done at the same time, then have the clear bra done. Has anyone done it in this sequence?

[s vier]

CC last. It will look better, work better, apply better and give you a better finished product. Your paint will be perfect underneath, protected and hydrophobic uniformly. If you do the ppf last you will be covering up portions of the good stuff.

[trophies]

CC is always on the outer most surface...

Just wondering how long after a paint correction should PPF be applied if there is a curing time etc.

[s vier]

CC is always on the outer most surface...

Just wondering how long after a paint correction should PPF be applied if there is a curing time etc.

I was under the impression and experience that you can do a paint correction followed immediately by the PPF. The CC would be applied a few days later after the PPF was fully dried and adhered.

One doesn’t want to do PPF over fresh paint as it needs about a month to fully cure.

[trophies]

i contacted a local shop that has rave reviews for vehicle wrapping, tinting, and they provide PPF and coating applications. they are a Ceramic Pro dealer and use their products. I've been told newer products have come out since Ceramic Pro came to be...are they still a backbone of that field? Will I be happy with that application?

Each additional layer of 9H on the car would be $250

[trophies]

Shop quoted me $1390 including paint correction and 1 layer of 9H, 1 layer of Light, coat glass, coat wheel faces
- 5 Year Warranty -

[JamesRS5]

Not sure what your shop means by them being a backbone? Have a shop around, for the same price you’ll get a newer and better product.

Paint correction must be done immediately prior to either PPF or a Ceramic Coating, any time between the two will increase the risk of inducing marks, swirls, marring, etc.

Coating always goes over the PPF, apply it before and you probably won’t get a guarantee with the PPF as it may not adhere correctly. Coatings on PPF should be ones designed to go on a film, most are designed to work with clear coat so won’t last on a PPF. Gtechniq and Kamikaze both have a dedicated product, Gtechniq Halo and Kamikaze Film Coat.

If you only want to ceramic coat then please look at Kamikaze, 2 layers of Mayabi coat and one coat of ISM will give you the best look and performance available on the market today.
Gyeon Syncro is 2 coats of Mohs and one coat of skin, a great product with a super slick finish and finally gtechniq Crystal Serum Lite followed by 2 coats of EXO IV is another recommended product for gloss and hydrophobic properties.

[iksnoved25]

Can someone give me a TLDR for washing technique besides the two bucket + mitt method? Debating if I should save myself the money..

Or, what if I decide to actually wrap the car down the road, thinking a Porsche chalk grey. If I did a clear bra PPF now then that would be pointless right? Maybe even hold off on ceramic coating if the probability of wrapping my car a new color is even in sight?

I would determine if you want to change the color of your car first (wrap). Paint Correction should be the first step of whatever you do. You could opt to not do the correction first if you're going to wrap it, since when it comes to removing wrap, it will leave a lot of residue and you'll need to claybar (which WILL micromar your paint, needing a correction/polish after)...it all depends on what you want to spend.

If you decide to stick with the color of what you have, then apply Paint Protection film. You can (I would) Ceramic Coat after applying the film, but technically, you don't need to. Just keep it protected with wax or a paint sealant.

If you decide to change the color and wrap it, then I would just get a paint sealant and keep the paint protected until you decide on a color. Ceramic Coating now, then wrapping, will prevent the adhesion and longevity of the vinyl wrap. PPF now and vinyl wrap second would just be a waste.

What I would do:
Color the same:
-Paint correction
-Paint Protection Film (or vinyl wrap)
-Ceramic Coat
-top with Paint Sealant
-wax over sealant (optional)


Two bucket method:

1) I use a snowfoam cannon (connects to pressure washer) and foam the entire car as a presoak. It helps loosen dirt and grime while you prep the buckets.
This is optional, but I do it...and customers like the pictures.
2) One bucket a PH Neutral soap (or get some Optimum No Rinse*). Fill the other bucket with water. Buy a grit guard, and place it in the water bucket.
3) Use a mitt, soak it full of the soap bucket. Start at top of the car and work your way down.
4) After every panel (if not more often/when you need more soap), take the mitt and dip it into the water bucket. Scrub the bottom of the mitt on the grit guard to release the dirt from the mitt. Remove excess water from the mitt.
5) Dip back into the soap bucket and get it all sudsy again. Move to next panel.
6) Rinse car (either panel by panel depending on how long it is taking you/how dirty it is), or at the very end. The PH Neutral soap helps prevent water/soap marks.

*Look up Optimum No Rinse. It has a TON of uses based on dilution ratios and I absolutely love it. Soap, rinseless wash, waterless wash, quick detailer, clay lube, glass cleaner, interior quick detailer.



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