how much power will a new stock Dual mass flywheel and OEM clutch kit handle?

[macantley]

Right now i have a JHM stage 1 tune with an ECS RA4 clutch kit, I do not like the amount of vibration the single mass flywheel added to my car as well as other resonant vibrations that have been added. I'm looking at the possibility of replacing my clutch kit with 15k miles on it with an OEM setup but i dont want something thats too weak to handle a JHM stage 1 or stage 2 setup. so before i do something stupid, i figured i would ask what the normal power handling of the oem clutch is. I do not do clutch dumps in 1st gear, the only time i really push the car hard is after i'm already rolling, i dont want to tear up anything.

matthew

[EvolutionArmory]

OEM is fine for stage 1 and probably 2.

I ran my stock clutch with my K04 for a while and it was fine when it came off.

[oVeRdOsE]

you have an unbalanced flywheel or bad installation.

No vibration at all on my kit nor my friends kit.

The only difference is less inertia (easier to stall) and more grip.

if you're concerned about vibration, you can always get a fluidampr

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Fluid...-2.0T-FSI.html


However, I know few people with stage 2 on stock pressure plate, stock flywheel, but a better clutch disk (i believe luk rs one, but i cant recall).

On my stage 2 tune, with a top shape engine, I had no issue on the stock clutch. dont worry, its not a mk7 R paper clutch

[EvolutionArmory]

I was thinking more about your situation on my way to work today and I have to say you might be the only person who hasn’t given the RA4 clutch a positive review. I’m not saying your complaints aren’t justified, I’m only saying that I would probably look at other things that might be causing your vibrations.

Let’s look at other things that rotate that could be an issue.

The first thing that comes to mind is front axels. If your inner CV joints are going, that could cause your issues, just not at idle though.

You could have a bad harmonic balancer. You don’t hear about them failing here too often but in the end, it’s just a piece of plastic. A Fluidampr might make a night and day difference. I have one and it works great.

You could have a bad driveshaft support bearing. That would cause some vibrations, some hum and clunking.

Any one of the pullies on the front of the motor could be starting to get loose. My power steering pulley has some play in it for example. I’ll need a new pump soon.

And then there’s any one of the front motor mounts/tranny mounts.

Rear differential mounts.

I would exhaust all of those possibilities before pulling out a clutch kit that almost always gets great reviews and putting in a very expensive DMFW OEM clutch kit.

[macantley]

I'm not really saying the clutch/flywheel is the issue with my car, just looking into all posibilities, and the first one that comes to mind is that i could put a stock setup back in the car and see if it fixes the issue..... but i may pull my oil pan off first and check out the oil pump assembly, i've seen several video's of the balance shafts breaking and the balance shafts not turning properly, and also the shafts having play that can cause vibration as well, I wish i could remember if i had any vibration before i changed out the clutch now but i didnt drive the car much before i started my mods. I'm also considering the fluiddampr. to be honest, i've also considered taking the engine out of my FWD 6 speed a4 and dropping into my wagon because the FWD car drives/shifts like a dream compaired to my AWD wagon, i just cant justify removing the engine from a car i'm selling.....

[B5A4coastie]

If your balance shafts are going you’d most likely have metal shaving in your oil.

[macantley]

If your balance shafts are going you’d most likely have metal shaving in your oil.

Guess what i've had in my oil filter for the last 15,000 miles.......... (change the oil every 3k miles with synthetic)

[macantley]

i Figured id update this post so some answers are given:

Finally pulled my oil pan off the car figuring i'd be replacing the oil pump assembly because of balance shafts, Well, as soon as i pulled the pan off i saw the chain gear for the balance shafts sitting crooked and lots of wear on the block where the gear was wedged between the block and the balance shaft assembly, basically the bolt that holds the gear to the balance shaft had sheered in two pieces and somehow the car was still running and had good oil pressure, after removal of the oil pump assembly i found that the thrust washer for my crank had fallen out of the crank area somehow and fell directly into the balance shaft and wedged between the shaft and caused an abrupt stopping of the balance assembly which caused the previously mentioned bolt to snap. Needless to say, i had been driving the car for 15-20,000 miles like that, the wear/tear on the crank assembly from the missing thrust bearing was not repairable and i replaced the block with an 05.5-06 block with the better pistons (parts car with bad head for the win!) my idle vibration is now gone with the new engine, However i've still got a horrible vibration between 1700-2200 RPM that i cant pinpoint, most noticeable in 3rd-6th gear, I've already got a used 6MT transmission with 97k miles in my garage, and i just ordered a brand new LUK flywheel and bolts, and next i'm going to order an LUK Repset clutch assembly and new transmission mount (probably 034 mount) *IF* i replace the trans, clutch and flywheel along with the mounts and i still have this vibration then the only thing left original in my drivetrain is my cylinder head and my turbo, as well as driveshaft and rear diff. I've driven two other 6mt audi a4's now that were smooth as silk as far as vibration in that RPM range goes, so it makes me very jealous. the only advantage i have is my car with the tune is much more powerful.

Also going back to stock sport suspension, as i've gotten older i still ike the idea of coilovers but i'm pretty confident that the Blueline or JOM coilovers from ECS tuning are a pretty harsh ride and i've never adjusted them since installing them and adjusting them the first time out.

metal chunks in oil pump screen..jpgbalance shaft cog.jpgwhats this.jpgmetal in shafts.jpg

[EvolutionArmory]

The vibration at low RPM’s in high gears is VERY normal with a LWFW. Downshift and your problem will disappear. There’s almost no reason to be at 1700 in third gear.