Routine and preventative maintenance - 65k miles B8.5

[sfl_A4]

Hi there folks.

My 2013 Audi A4 6MT Quattro fell off the CPO warranty a few months ago and I just crossed 67k miles (I thought I was good to 100K), so I'm going to be doing more of my own maintenance. I'm not impressed with Audi quality and reliability on this car, it has broken down enough times to be annoying and somewhat costly to own, at least compared to my previous 2006 A4, which was very reliable and trustworthy (except for the cam roller on the HPFP).

I currently have the P2015 trouble code tripping the CEL, which I have tracked down to a malfunctioning manifold flapper, and I'm currently handling that by pushing the flapper rod back in by hand every couple of weeks to clear it. I know ECS tuning is coming out with a kit for this in the next quarter, so I'm just buying time until then.

What other recommended or essential maintenance should I be doing at this point? Any fluid changes (excluding engine oil), routine inspections, or other preventative measures I should plan for?

I've read the carbon cleaning is a common one that should be done regularly. I've never done it, but seems like a good 2 hours of disassembly and reassembly, and some elbow grease with a wire brush. Thoughts?

What else?

[ps2cho]

Transmission fluid and filter about now would be smart to do.

[austindgarner]

Timing change and tensioner. At least check it. My 2014 had everything replaced at 72000 miles. Tensioner on its last notch and chain stretched pretty good.

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[BrianVan]

Front and Rear Diff fluid change. Rear is easier than an Oil change, Front a little tricky thru the passenger side fender well.
Each take a quart of fluid. GL5 gear oil spec. Need a cheapo hand pump to put the fluid back in.
There are several DIY stickies on the fluid change.

Tranny drain and refill too. (not too many stickies, but there are threads. Another full day job for a DIY'er and not cheap for the correct fluid)

Carbon cleaning should be on the list, but walnut blasting is the way to go. (another DIY sticky to review). But its not for the faint of heart. Very detailed disassembly but a semi good gearhead can handle it. It's on my list and I'm gonna take an extra day off work just in case the weekend isn't enough.

As for the timing chain. Another giant tread to review. The 2013 and up years should have taken care of the issues of past model years, but some have confirmed it hasn't.
Check your tensioner, (again, another sticky thread) and view it for the notch its on.

N80 valve and the PVC valve (AK version). Change or clean the MAF sensor. Coils and plugs for sure. NKG. get the gap correct. Get OE Red Top coils which are usually the upgraded Audi coils. Just check the site you're purchasing from.

You can also google the Audi PDF preventative maintenance schedule for the A4 2013 year and see what Audi recommends or what they would do if you brought it in. Mostly just a "check this and lubricate that". Mostly BS and a HUGE bill if not covered by CPO or Audi Care.

Then, ST Suspension (or suspension of your choice to lower it) spacers, audi puddle lights, LED interior lights, RS grill and fogs, Drivetrain mounts, Carista ODB or vagcom, paint the calibers and dust shields like a stone or gunmetal to be subtle, claybar it, polish and ceramic coat it and black out the rear emblems with Plasti-dip. I also go an open filter air intake for the turbo spooling "whoosh" sound. It sounds pretty bad ass, but may annoy some after a while. Upgrade the brakes to slotted or drilled rotors and ceramic pads for less dust. (yes, slotted or drilled rotors do nothing for performance but just look good in my opinion for a another subtle bling).

Also, what other "broken down" issues have you had? I got a 2013 quattro and haven't had any major problems. (not to minimize your issues)

[elscotto80]

Front and Rear Diff fluid change. Rear is easier than an Oil change, Front a little tricky thru the passenger side fender well.
Each take a quart of fluid. GL5 gear oil spec. Need a cheapo hand pump to put the fluid back in.
There are several DIY stickies on the fluid change.

Tranny drain and refill too. (not too many stickies, but there are threads. Another full day job for a DIY'er and not cheap for the correct fluid)

Carbon cleaning should be on the list, but walnut blasting is the way to go. (another DIY sticky to review). But its not for the faint of heart. Very detailed disassembly but a semi good gearhead can handle it. It's on my list and I'm gonna take an extra day off work just in case the weekend isn't enough.

As for the timing chain. Another giant tread to review. The 2013 and up years should have taken care of the issues of past model years, but some have confirmed it hasn't.
Check your tensioner, (again, another sticky thread) and view it for the notch its on.

N80 valve and the PVC valve (AK version). Change or clean the MAF sensor. Coils and plugs for sure. NKG. get the gap correct. Get OE Red Top coils which are usually the upgraded Audi coils. Just check the site you're purchasing from.

You can also google the Audi PDF preventative maintenance schedule for the A4 2013 year and see what Audi recommends or what they would do if you brought it in. Mostly just a "check this and lubricate that". Mostly BS and a HUGE bill if not covered by CPO or Audi Care.

Then, ST Suspension (or suspension of your choice to lower it) spacers, audi puddle lights, LED interior lights, RS grill and fogs, Drivetrain mounts, Carista ODB or vagcom, paint the calibers and dust shields like a stone or gunmetal to be subtle, claybar it, polish and ceramic coat it and black out the rear emblems with Plasti-dip. I also go an open filter air intake for the turbo spooling "whoosh" sound. It sounds pretty bad ass, but may annoy some after a while. Upgrade the brakes to slotted or drilled rotors and ceramic pads for less dust. (yes, slotted or drilled rotors do nothing for performance but just look good in my opinion for a another subtle bling).

Also, what other "broken down" issues have you had? I got a 2013 quattro and haven't had any major problems. (not to minimize your issues)

Excellent list. Us three pedal folks dont have front diff fluid, its all with the trans fluid. I had this discussion with the shop when they drained and filled my tranny.

[A4x]

BrianVan is on point. Pretty much covered it all. Only thing I can add is tire rotation to keep the wear nice and even.

Spark plugs are cheap enough to be replaced fairly often, I do mine yearly (roughly 15k miles) and I feel the difference in engine smoothness.

I just recently cleaned my MAF for the first time and the car seemed to pep up in the low RPMs. My theory is the MAF easily gets covered in road gunk and incorrectly meters the slower moving air that occurs at low RPM. This throws off the fuel trims just a bit. To clean it is really easy, $8 can of CRC MAF cleaner, remove the airbox and 2 screws to pull off the MAF. Don't touch it, just spray it down with the cleaner a few times and let it dry. Repeat.

[audrobotic]

BrianVan is on point. Pretty much covered it all. Only thing I can add is tire rotation to keep the wear nice and even.

Spark plugs are cheap enough to be replaced fairly often, I do mine yearly (roughly 15k miles) and I feel the difference in engine smoothness.

I just recently cleaned my MAF for the first time and the car seemed to pep up in the low RPMs. My theory is the MAF easily gets covered in road gunk and incorrectly meters the slower moving air that occurs at low RPM. This throws off the fuel trims just a bit. To clean it is really easy, $8 can of CRC MAF cleaner, remove the airbox and 2 screws to pull off the MAF. Don't touch it, just spray it down with the cleaner a few times and let it dry. Repeat.

For the MAF - you can access that directly right? I’m going from memory but you dont need to remove the airbox I think. That’s a good idea though to clean it. I had CELs on a 4runner and the MAF/Electronics cleaner did the trick. Got before and after pics?

[Theiceman]

Imo spark plugs at 15k are a complete waste of time and money. If they were copper yeah but modern spark plugs should go 30-40 K easy.
The rest if the list is pretty good but i just think the less you mess with an aluminum thread in the head the better.


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[A4x]

For the MAF - you can access that directly right? I’m going from memory but you dont need to remove the airbox I think. That’s a good idea though to clean it. I had CELs on a 4runner and the MAF/Electronics cleaner did the trick. Got before and after pics?

Yea I think you can. The bottom screw might be a little blind. For me it takes about 30 seconds to remove the airbox so I just did that. I didn't take pics but it did look noticeably cleaner after spraying.

Imo spark plugs at 15k are a complete waste of time and money. If they were copper yeah but modern spark plugs should go 30-40 K easy.

My plugs look pretty nasty after 15k miles. I agree, for most people and stock tunes you can go much longer without changing them.

[Theiceman]

Yea I think you can. The bottom screw might be a little blind. For me it takes about 30 seconds to remove the airbox so I just did that. I didn't take pics but it did look noticeably cleaner after spraying.



My plugs look pretty nasty after 15k miles. I agree, for most people and stock tunes you can go much longer without changing them.

ah yes , if you are tuned all bets are off

btw what is the replacement plug ? mine just say VW on them , is there a preferred aftermarket or stock tune anyone ?? i just rebuilt my entire engine and put the old plugs back in ... but maybe my car deserves a treat .

[A4x]

NGK PFR7S8EG is the stock plug. Under $32 for 4.

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-PFR7S8EG-.../dp/B007WR66QQ

BKR7 also works, but I prefer the platinum PFR.

[Theiceman]

NGK PFR7S8EG is the stock plug. Under $32 for 4.

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-PFR7S8EG-.../dp/B007WR66QQ

BKR7 also works, but I prefer the platinum PFR.

Thanks. I will look for some locally


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[sfl_A4]

That to all for the fine feedback.

I'm about to do the carbon cleaning soon, so I may as well do the other recommend maintenance while I'm at it. Plugs have about 27K but I might as well. Air filter no problem, but again only about 27k on it now. MAF cleaning - good idea.

What is the recommended tranny fluid for the 6MT?

PCV and N80 - are these necessary at 67k? On my B7 I had the dreaded HPFP roller issue, and Audi replaced the cam and the roller under warranty since it ate through. But I and ended up replacing the PCV and N80 at 100k before I found the real culprit, but these items just didn't seem to make any notable difference.

Are coils necessary at 67K, I did 100k on the B7 with the OEM ones, and never had a CEL or misfire. It's not a big deal to do, just wondering if the cost is worth it.

I will likely do the brake fluid flush too at this time. It was done about two years ago at 40K or so, but since I have the pump I guess it's not a big deal when I go to rotate the tires.