What to watch out for in high mileage (~100k) RS5?

[olympic]

Am in the market for a b8.5 S5 and the one I had lined up may not work out but I have seen some higher mileage RS5's coming down close to the price range of some of the S5's. I welcome your thoughts on whether one should consider purchasing a higher mileage RS5 and if there are specific items to watch out for on these. When I say higher mileage I am referring to those around the 100,000 mile mark. I understand that the carbon buildup can be an issue on the 4.2. I also understand that the DSG/S Tronic transmission ATF needs to have been changed at 35k and 75k maintenance intervals and the MTF (oil for gearbox) every 20k miles. I didn't realize that the RS5 had the MTF interval but see that listed in the maintenance schedule. With carfax I can oftentimes tell if it's been dealer serviced through its life. I am just wondering if there are any known issues that should steer someone away from a high mileage RS5.

[altobeast]

Find Mcbuck, he's one of the ones with 110k+ Rs5, I have no expertise on higher mileage but he should know what to watch for .

[olympic]

Find Mcbuck, he's one of the ones with 110k+ Rs5, I have no expertise on higher mileage but he should know what to watch for .

Thanks. I sent McBuck a PM.

[Ape Factory]

Basically look for evidence there was regular maintenance done on the car. Beyond that, a test drive will tell you how "tight" she still is. Any clunking from the suspension, particularly the front, can be an indicator of bushing wear but they're easy enough to replace. If the shocks have never been replaced, you'll want new ones. I'd definitely have a pre purchase inspection done and check for any leaks and scan for any codes.

If the car has not been carbon cleaned, I'd have that done right away as it'll make a nice difference in how the engine performs. There are a few items I'd look at like injector cleaning, new o-rings/combustion chamber seals, new upper/lower intake manifold gaskets, have the hoses all checked, etc, wheel hubs, brake rotors and pads...pretty standard stuff. There aren't any major gotchas unless the electronics are on the fritz or the mechatronic in the transmission is on the way out. A test drive will be a good way to figure out the latter.

I would say if the owner was still driving the car at 100K, it was probably pretty reliable and just time to move on to something new.

- - - Updated - - -

Edit: I know mcbuck was having an oil separator/pcv issue but not sure if he ever got that fixed or diagnosed it 100%.

[olympic]

Thanks Ape for that info.

[Johnhanson]

Quite honestly I find it ridiculous how few problems have been reported with these cars. High revving V8, relatively new/complex differential for the time, unnecessarily complex and sealed transmission. And they aren’t failing. The best part is the harder you drive them the fewer problems they seem to have. Aside from the whole shitty brake issue (which would have declared it self long before 100k miles) these cars are unusually reliable.


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[olympic]

Quite honestly I find it ridiculous how few problems have been reported with these cars. High revving V8, relatively new/complex differential for the time, unnecessarily complex and sealed transmission. And they aren’t failing. The best part is the harder you drive them the fewer problems they seem to have. Aside from the whole shitty brake issue (which would have declared it self long before 100k miles) these cars are unusually reliable.

Thanks for the input. Sounds like I better search the forum for RS5 brake issues.

[BuyTheWarranty]

Aside from the whole shitty brake issue (which would have declared it self long before 100k miles) these cars are unusually reliable.

Honesty, this is why I went with the RS5, and specifically mine. Still had a year on warranty, full Audicare and already had the front discs replaced.

Overall, so far, the car has been far more reliable than my 2012 S5 and way more fun.

[Johnhanson]

Glad you enjoy it. I’ve had it for almost 5 years and all I’ve had *knock on wood* is a minor heater issue and a burnt out headlamp. I literally can’t find a better car that would give me this much joy 12 months a year....until the M8 comes out :)


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[olympic]

How many miles do some of you have on your RS5s?

[BuyTheWarranty]

I’ve got 50,000kms

[Ape Factory]

Thanks for the input. Sounds like I better search the forum for RS5 brake issues.

When you test drive the vehicle, brake issues will be obvious. It just won't stop like you think it should. This is for cars equipped with the standard iron disks and it's fixed with either aftermarket pads or aftermarket rotors and pads. More than likely, the car will have that sorted already. There are a ton of options for aftermarket rotors and pads so it's a simple fix.

If you manage to find a car with the carbon ceramic brake package up front, it does not suffer from those issues. But at 100K, I would insist on having them measured AND weighed to make sure they're still in spec. Visual inspection at that mileage is not enough. They should last well beyond 100K unless the car has been tracked heavily. The CCB disks are not cheap to replace but there is an iron rotor substitute made by ECS that swaps right in. The RS5 CCB front brake package is identical to the 2018 Lamborghini Hurican Performante (uses a slightly different pad material) just for reference. Same caliper, same rotor.

[jaypilot75]

82k on mine. My advice...ask for service records. Dont buy from a "rock lot". Only a dealership, doesnt have to be Audi however, I would at least insist on a German car dealership Mercedes, Porsche, BMW, etc..as their techs will have more familiarity with an Audi trade in, and it suggest the person who traded in is into German luxury autos and probably more likely to have had his/her vehicle properly serviced. Definitly invest in a VCDS and scan any prospects for red flags and if they wont let you scan it...walk away.

[namvar]

82k on mine. My advice...ask for service records. Dont buy from a "rock lot". Only a dealership, doesnt have to be Audi however, I would at least insist on a German car dealership Mercedes, Porsche, BMW, etc..as their techs will have more familiarity with an Audi trade in, and it suggest the person who traded in is into German luxury autos and probably more likely to have had his/her vehicle properly serviced. Definitly invest in a VCDS and scan any prospects for red flags and if they wont let you scan it...walk away.

this and make sure an Audi dealer perform a CPO type inspection. Mine is at 55K miles, 4 years old and 3 more years left on a 100K extended warranty.

Problems I have had... magnet for rocks, nails in tires, vandalism, SUVs changing lanes into me. No issues with brakes, only changed front brakes at 30K miles. Looking forward to babying this car for a long time to come.

[jaypilot75]

Vandalism...true! There are a lot of haters out there. I always park far away from people. There are no shortage of assholes willing to hate on you. You know, door dingers, ass riders, dirty looks etc...Even my boss gives me shit about my car...he calls it a "fancy car". He also laughed when I tottaled my previous car (b8 S5). I stopped at a gas station coming back from a relatives house during Christmas and got followed by a car full of thugs from the station who passed me got out at the next stop sign on a isolated road. Guess they thought they were going to take it. Momentarily thought about running them over b/c the walked in the other lane so I couldn't go around but, I didnt want to risk denting my car. So, the 45acp in my glovebox did the trick. No, I didnt shoot anyone (thank god), I guess they thought they had an easy target.
Anyway, yea, for some reason people hate on you. Not sure why. Like Navmar said SUV's...these giant fucking 400 ft long godamn SUV's...stay in your own fucking lane!!! What the fuck are you transporting that you need a house on wheels?? Almost taken out quite a few times by these. So, ah...yea..ok..im done ranting. Sorry

[olympic]

82k on mine. My advice...ask for service records. Dont buy from a "rock lot". Only a dealership, doesnt have to be Audi however, I would at least insist on a German car dealership Mercedes, Porsche, BMW, etc..as their techs will have more familiarity with an Audi trade in, and it suggest the person who traded in is into German luxury autos and probably more likely to have had his/her vehicle properly serviced. Definitly invest in a VCDS and scan any prospects for red flags and if they wont let you scan it...walk away.

Are the inexpensive handheld VCDS sufficient for detecting past codes? Any idea if the typical Audi Dealer PPI inspection will include this? If it's on a non dealer lot such as a used car lot that specializes in luxury or european cars would you still steer clear if carfax shows dealer maintenance history?

[olympic]

this and make sure an Audi dealer perform a CPO type inspection.

Do you know if the CPO inspections different than the Pre-Purchase Inspection that Audi dealers offer? Wasn't sure if one is more in depth than the other.

[jaypilot75]

Im not too familiar with the VCDS alternatives. Outside of the factory Audi scan tool. VCDS is . You can use generic scanners but they generally only access the ecu. Stored or cleared dtc's may not be picked up on a generic. VCDS can access all control modules and the CAN BUS. You can get their least expensive one for 200. And, it is a priceless tool to have if you own a VAG auto. Plus, it gives you access to their database and help forum. And you cant put a price on that when you need it. I mean 1 trip to the dealership will cost you more than 200$ just for them to tell you what they found.
If you were closer, I would let you use mine. You can try the VCDS users locator map for someone in your area uf you are not ready to make the investment. But, really it is a tool that will pay for itself very quickly imo. As far as carfax, I suppose, but not all shops report to that database with regard to service or repairs.

[namvar]

Do you know if the CPO inspections different than the Pre-Purchase Inspection that Audi dealers offer? Wasn't sure if one is more in depth than the other.

I don't know. But as long as it is inspected by Audi it should be sufficient.

[Johnhanson]

That’s funny (except the attempted robbery part) about the vandalism etc. I literally have zero door dings in 4.5 years, park wherever, drive all winter. I hit a piece of house siding on the highway once but the 3M and ceramic did their job. Car looks brand new except for a bit of gravel pitting at the rear fenders because of my spacers. My detail guy also had to do some paint correction because the dealer fucked up the shitty “diamond coat” garbage and my kid likes rubbing the dirty snow on my car with his mitts but every spring I do a ceramic touch up and it’s back to better than when I picked it up new.

And the only time anyone tried to race me ever was a golf GTI....he must have been boosted big time because he absolutely destroyed me lol. I literally only ever get thumbs up and positive attention from people. I’m sure a lot of people do indeed despise me though hahahahaha.

I think this car garners a certain quiet respect.


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[olympic]

Im not too familiar with the VCDS alternatives. Outside of the factory Audi scan tool. VCDS is . You can use generic scanners but they generally only access the ecu. Stored or cleared dtc's may not be picked up on a generic. VCDS can access all control modules and the CAN BUS. You can get their least expensive one for 200. And, it is a priceless tool to have if you own a VAG auto. Plus, it gives you access to their database and help forum. And you cant put a price on that when you need it. I mean 1 trip to the dealership will cost you more than 200$ just for them to tell you what they found.
If you were closer, I would let you use mine. You can try the VCDS users locator map for someone in your area uf you are not ready to make the investment. But, really it is a tool that will pay for itself very quickly imo. As far as carfax, I suppose, but not all shops report to that database with regard to service or repairs.

Thanks for all that info. Do you have a link for the $200 version you are referring to? Wasn't sure if it was the Ross-Tech software. You can send me a PM if preferred.

[03TLSinCO]

I don't know. But as long as it is inspected by Audi it should be sufficient.

I had a pre-purchase inspection done by Oakland Audi on a car I was interested in. I was ... less than impressed and it wasn't cheap (close to $400 as I recall). I had asked about cosmetic issues as well as mechanical and I found out (fortunately before I put a down payment on the car) there were a number of cosmetic issues that were show stoppers for me that they made no reference to, even when I spoke with them directly. I have their report at home, so I can't post it right now. It was rather lengthy, but not as detailed as I would have expected.

[olympic]

I had a pre-purchase inspection done by Oakland Audi on a car I was interested in. I was ... less than impressed and it wasn't cheap (close to $400 as I recall). I had asked about cosmetic issues as well as mechanical and I found out (fortunately before I put a down payment on the car) there were a number of cosmetic issues that were show stoppers for me that they made no reference to, even when I spoke with them directly. I have their report at home, so I can't post it right now. It was rather lengthy, but not as detailed as I would have expected.

Yeah that's the tough part about buying remote. You were lucky to find out about cosmetic issues before putting money down. Very surprised that you spoke with them directly and still didn't get that info out of them. If you don't mind me asking, how did you find out about these issues if not through the inspection?

[03TLSinCO]

If you don't mind me asking, how did you find out about these issues if not through the inspection?

I was very lucky. I got a few pics from the salesman and posted them on here. One of the members had looked at the car (an S5) and passed on it for an RS5. He asked if I was aware of the crack in the instrument cluster. I then went back to the Audi dealer and the dealer that was selling the car and asked more questions and was also provided more pictures. I was able to spot a few things that I didn't like.

If buying remotely, ask for a lot of pictures. If you see anything that you're unsure of, ask more questions.

[jaypilot75]

https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/

[olympic]

I was very lucky.

Yeah, that was lucky and a result of your due diligence.

https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/

Thanks! I didn't realize the software was licensed on a VIN basis so you'd definitely want to use it only on a vehicle you are very serious about.

[jaypilot75]

No, it sounds that way though. You can scan as many cars as you want. But, you can only make modifications to one.

[jaypilot75]

I agree they are not clear about that because I thought the same years back when I got mine.

[olympic]

No, it sounds that way though. You can scan as many cars as you want. But, you can only make modifications to one.

Okay that is very helpful to know. Thank you.

[jaypilot75]

Np...for that cable it ask for the vin of your car and is married to it as far as mods, retrofits, or coding but scanning is unlimited. Plus, you can add cars later using the same cable...for more $ of course.

[jaypilot75]

Yea, I shouldn't say that..people do compliment me and it is cool to get the thumbs up from other Audizine members/enthusiasts. I suppose I just notice assholes more. I live at the coast in SE NC and there seems to be a lot of pretentious people here. I travel a lot and dont really experience that type of behavior elsewhere..oh well...so much for Southern hospitality Oddly enough, I got way more compliments on my S5 than I do my RS5. Go figure??

[olympic]

I notice the service maintenance schedule says to change the MTF every 20k miles on the RS5 and the ATF every 40k miles. Interestingly I am not seeing that the MTF change is on the S5 stronic transmission maintenance schedule. Anyhow, when reviewing carfax service records for a couple not finding any indicators of MTF services being done (perhaps it's gets lumped under "vehicle serviced").

[03TLSinCO]

I notice the service maintenance schedule says to change the MTF every 20k miles on the RS5 and the ATF every 40k miles. Interestingly I am not seeing that the MTF change is on the S5 stronic transmission maintenance schedule. Anyhow, when reviewing carfax service records for a couple not finding any indicators of MTF services being done (perhaps it's gets lumped under "vehicle serviced").

If the vehicle was serviced at an Audi dealer, Audi should be able to tell you exactly what was done for each service. If done at an independent shop, you probably won't be able to easily get that info.

[olympic]

Continuing to explore my options on high mileage RS5s. One concern is the relative rarity of the engine if it had a catastrophic failure. Looks like used engines run $10k - $15k alone not including labor to R&R. Hopefully these engines will last up to 200k miles or so if maintained but haven’t seen many over 100k yet just due to age of the cars and how most people use them. Not finding much out there about engine failure issues with this engine please correct me if you know otherwise.

From what I’ve read it sounds like the S Tronic transmission in the RS5 is different than the S5 and perhaps is even different from year to year based on some interchange information. Anyone know if that is true? Looks like used ones run $2k and up plus labor to R&R. New is another story running about 6x that.

I’ve read up on the brake issue and will certainly try to make sure that has been sorted out. Also reading up on VCDS so that if I get one I could actually make sense of the data it provides.

[Ape Factory]

Continuing to explore my options on high mileage RS5s. One concern is the relative rarity of the engine if it had a catastrophic failure. Looks like used engines run $10k - $15k alone not including labor to R&R. Hopefully these engines will last up to 200k miles or so if maintained but haven’t seen many over 100k yet just due to age of the cars and how most people use them. Not finding much out there about engine failure issues with this engine please correct me if you know otherwise.

From what I’ve read it sounds like the S Tronic transmission in the RS5 is different than the S5 and perhaps is even different from year to year based on some interchange information. Anyone know if that is true? Looks like used ones run $2k and up plus labor to R&R. New is another story running about 6x that.

I’ve read up on the brake issue and will certainly try to make sure that has been sorted out. Also reading up on VCDS so that if I get one I could actually make sense of the data it provides.

Really haven't been any issues with the engine like you see with say the M3 (E90/2/3) chassis. It's the same engine as the R8 V10 with two cylinders lopped off and it's a new design from the RS4 and V8 S5 (b8).

The transmission isn't any different. It's the DL501 S-Tronic. The only thing that is different is the tuning and possibly the mechatronic unit. The pre-2013 S-Tronics can have issues with the mechatronic unit burning out. They upgraded them since and they now have a larger heat sink. There's also a replacement electronics board available now which costs $400 plus labor. Substantially less than replacing the gearbox. Apparently, the gearbox was designed for 1000Nm and 10,000 rpm. It's all in the tuning. Above 800Nm (590 foot pounds of torque), you'll need a higher performance clutch pack.

It's important the transmission fluid, and rear diff fluid is serviced regularly. I'm planning on replacing all fluids every 20K.

EDIT: If the engine health is a concern, I'd just have the car tested for compression AND leak down. That'll tell you right away how healthy it is.

[olympic]

Really haven't been any issues with the engine like you see with say the M3 (E90/2/3) chassis. It's the same engine as the R8 V10 with two cylinders lopped off and it's a new design from the RS4 and V8 S5 (b8).

The transmission isn't any different. It's the DL501 S-Tronic. The only thing that is different is the tuning and possibly the mechatronic unit. The pre-2013 S-Tronics can have issues with the mechatronic unit burning out. They upgraded them since and they now have a larger heat sink. There's also a replacement electronics board available now which costs $400 plus labor. Substantially less than replacing the gearbox. Apparently, the gearbox was designed for 1000Nm and 10,000 rpm. It's all in the tuning. Above 800Nm (590 foot pounds of torque), you'll need a higher performance clutch pack.

It's important the transmission fluid, and rear diff fluid is serviced regularly. I'm planning on replacing all fluids every 20K.

EDIT: If the engine health is a concern, I'd just have the car tested for compression AND leak down. That'll tell you right away how healthy it is.

Good idea on the compression and leak down tests. That would help put my mind at ease for the overall engine health.

[HMS]

91K here and I have a few things to chime in on:

1) Always listen to Ape.
2) Do a PPI - only buy from German Automake dealer - preferably in the VAG group
3) OEM front brakes shit the bed at 25K miles. The rears will last you a susprisingly ~45k-50 miles. Each job is 1k in parts and another 500 in labor. ECS rotors + HAWKS HPS 5.O is a god send.
4) be nice to your *competent* indy shop. Bring them beer, donuts, food. Make friends. Cheaper than a warranty at times.
5) However, if you do get a warranty - nothing below "gold level" - in my experience, if all maintenance is up to date, the core of this car is VERY reliable, its the little things that annoy you that will fail.
6) every upgrade on this car is 1k. Will vary on your area of course but budget 1K per mod to be safe. Coils? 1k. Intake? 1K. Brakes? 1K. Carbon Clean? 1K. Carbon Steering Wheel? 1K. - this is not including labor.
7) Stage 2 S5s will absolutely smack you around. Make your peace with it.
8) The coolant hoses (upper and lower) have failed on me. Twice. Thankfully it's cheap to fix.
9) DO not, and I repeat, Do not overfill the gas tank. No one told me this. I learned the hard way.
10) Buy an 034 sway bar. and CR-15 front brace.
11) If you're considering a drop - go with coils. or KW HAS. But mostly coils. get the good stuff.
12) If you can swing a VAG-COM, great - if not, get a Carista. Pretty handy for minor codes/electrical mods.
13) If you can and have the space - DIY oil changes.
14) Make sure all of the DSG services have been done. The DSG is the weakest link in this car by comparison.
15) Don't crash it. It's cheap in value but expensive to fix. THE RS TAX is REAL
16) Oil change every 5K
17) PES makes a supercharger for it. You will be tempted. Don't buy it.
18) If you want speed - get an S5. Be honest with yourself about what you want. Sure the V8 sounds great, but this is not a straight line car.
19) The B&O speakers will being to rattle the cabin above 85K miles. I don't blast my music. I hate rattly speakers. This is really really irritating me.
20) The sunroof squeaks. Tri-Flow around the mechanical bits will quiet it down nicely.
21) Yes we get it, you drive an RS5 - now don't be a douchebag ------> this is more of a reminder to me.

[olympic]

91K here and I have a few things to chime in on:

1) Always listen to Ape.
2) Do a PPI - only buy from German Automake dealer - preferably in the VAG group
3) OEM front brakes shit the bed at 25K miles. The rears will last you a susprisingly ~45k-50 miles. Each job is 1k in parts and another 500 in labor. ECS rotors + HAWKS HPS 5.O is a god send.
4) be nice to your *competent* indy shop. Bring them beer, donuts, food. Make friends. Cheaper than a warranty at times.
5) However, if you do get a warranty - nothing below "gold level" - in my experience, if all maintenance is up to date, the core of this car is VERY reliable, its the little things that annoy you that will fail.
6) every upgrade on this car is 1k. Will vary on your area of course but budget 1K per mod to be safe. Coils? 1k. Intake? 1K. Brakes? 1K. Carbon Clean? 1K. Carbon Steering Wheel? 1K. - this is not including labor.
7) Stage 2 S5s will absolutely smack you around. Make your peace with it.
8) The coolant hoses (upper and lower) have failed on me. Twice. Thankfully it's cheap to fix.
9) DO not, and I repeat, Do not overfill the gas tank. No one told me this. I learned the hard way.
10) Buy an 034 sway bar. and CR-15 front brace.
11) If you're considering a drop - go with coils. or KW HAS. But mostly coils. get the good stuff.
12) If you can swing a VAG-COM, great - if not, get a Carista. Pretty handy for minor codes/electrical mods.
13) If you can and have the space - DIY oil changes.
14) Make sure all of the DSG services have been done. The DSG is the weakest link in this car by comparison.
15) Don't crash it. It's cheap in value but expensive to fix. THE RS TAX is REAL
16) Oil change every 5K
17) PES makes a supercharger for it. You will be tempted. Don't buy it.
18) If you want speed - get an S5. Be honest with yourself about what you want. Sure the V8 sounds great, but this is not a straight line car.
19) The B&O speakers will being to rattle the cabin above 85K miles. I don't blast my music. I hate rattly speakers. This is really really irritating me.
20) The sunroof squeaks. Tri-Flow around the mechanical bits will quiet it down nicely.
21) Yes we get it, you drive an RS5 - now don't be a douchebag ------> this is more of a reminder to me.

HMS, a sincere thank you for taking the time to thump all of that out. Yeah this search has been interesting. I'm amazed at how many RS5s on the market have an accident history. Given the cost of the car many are repaired whereas a lower cost car might have been totaled. So yeah, don't crash it is good advice.

You mention buying only from a VAG dealer. This has been mentioned before. The challenge is not finding these higher mileage RS5s at those dealers. Seem that they go through auction and end up at Luxury/Euro used type of dealers. Is that a concern if PPI still performed? There are also some private party sales out there to be had as well.

For the DSG services I see Audi recommends that MTF be serviced every 20k miles but I haven't found a single RS5 that is showing that this service was done at that interval. I am finding the standard ATF trans service at 35k and 75k, but not MTF being done very 20k. For you RS5 owners are you having the MTF changed every 20k?

Great tip on the Carista! Does it show historical information that might be helpful as I look at cars or is it better to get the VCDS? Can't beat the price of the Carista from what I am seeing.

[HMS]

SUB 50K miles - they should still pop up at german automake dealers. Over 50K miles they will pop up at lower tiered auction house types. There are gems in the rough out there, but if looking for a higher mileage RS5, and don't have access to one at a local dealer, check the classifieds here. RS5s popping up for sale left and right. For example MacRS5 had a GORGEOUS Estoril Rs5 with white guts for an astounding price. I test drove it. Was awesome.

As for the DSG service, yes, the MTF should be done every 20K after the 35 and 75 service. Better to overdo it than underdo (really how is this not a word) with RS5s over 50K miles.

You could always buy mine.

[matt310]

There has been some confusion with the DSG maintenance intervals on the RS 5 because it was originally different for US-spec vehicles vs. ROW. Additionally since the B9 RS5 has a conventional transmission, its service intervals are more widely spaced and it could be confusing when looking at service intervals for, say, the 2019 vs. 2015. Download this document and keep it handy: https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...-Year-2015.pdf Change that URL to 2019 to see the recommended B9 RS 5 intervals. Also note the rear differential has its own service intervals.

The DSG sometimes has a tendency to downshift roughly when the powertrain is cold, and there have been a few software updates to address that issue. It's mostly sorted now, but occasionally and out of nowhere I'll get a rough 2-1 shift when stopping. It would make sense for Audi to program the box to just stay in second until the vehicle is stopped, but so far the updates haven't included that recommendation :)

For the brakes, the US-spec 2013-2015 RS 5 came with standard and carbon brake setups; the former has been the topic of much consternation over the years because Audi's stock pad setup didn't like clamping down on hot rotors (say, at a red light after exiting a freeway), and that caused uneven pad transfer onto the discs which caused nasty brake shudder. After four pad revisions the issue is basically sorted out. They now offer two different types of pads for the fronts; one is for 'comfort' driving and the other is a continued revision of the initial sole pad option (for non-carbon discs), meant for aggressive or "spirited" driving.

I prefer to stick to stock offerings and a brake job (without rotors) runs about $1500-$2000 factoring in parts and expensive dealer labor. Rotors will double+ that job and are better off replaced if they're warped or too thin. This is a heavy car and chews through both the stock pads and rotors more quickly than any other car I've owned.

Other than that, the car is pretty solid considering the underlying powertrain technology. Carbon buildup is an issue with almost every direct injection engine, though it has historically been worse on VAG cars. Hopefully they'll follow Toyota and Ford by including a port-side injector used in low load applications on future engines, but for the 4.2 FSI motor it's just something that should be considered as optional preventative maintenance. It's my understanding that currently no dealers will perform a carbon clean either under warranty or as a pay service.