siphoning gas from car? or better method to empty tank some

[jjvwg]

out of town at my parents for the holidays and my fuel pump/controller are acting up. car was dead last night with codes, started today and stays running but im not trusting it to get me 120 miles back home. had a friend get me parts from WorldPac today (big thumbs up to them) but i have a little over half a tank of gas in the car. since the fuel filter is in the tank on this car its not as easy as undoing a line underneath the car and letting the pump empty it. can i put a hose down the fill neck into the tank or would there be something in there that would block this from happening. trying to not a gas dumping all over the car and my parents garage.

[Novarider]

Is it too full to just reach in and replace the filter when you pull the pump?

[jjvwg]

Gonna be replacing everything. I have a little over half a tank which is definitely gonna cause overflow all over the place.


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[rally3]

Gonna be replacing everything. I have a little over half a tank which is definitely gonna cause overflow all over the place.


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The fuel pump is removed from the top so anything below 3/4 tank is not going to spill out, except for what in trapped in the fuel pump assembly as you lift and tilt it out

[jjvwg]

The fuel pump is removed from the top so anything below 3/4 tank is not going to spill out, except for what in trapped in the fuel pump assembly as you lift and tilt it out

I think it has to do with the shape of the gas tank though and how the gas moves between the two halves of the tanks. Audi says to be 1/4 tank or less when removing the pump and when I did my b6 I was just over a 1/4 tank and still had gas right at the top with a little spillover. Unfortunately even though WorldPac is delivering today they haven’t brought my parts yet


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[earhythmic]

I think it has to do with the shape of the gas tank though and how the gas moves between the two halves of the tanks. Audi says to be 1/4 tank or less when removing the pump and when I did my b6 I was just over a 1/4 tank and still had gas right at the top with a little spillover. Unfortunately even though WorldPac is delivering today they haven’t brought my parts yet


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I've had to deal with this quite a bit lately. On the B8s, just under 1/2 tank will be right at the brim of overflowing. If the LPFP still primes you can attach a hose to the same spot as the fuel send line and let the pump do the work for you. This line is under pressure though, so to avoid a mess, unplug the wiring harness from the fuel pump (or pull the fuse/relay, whichever) and start the car for a second. The HPFP will pull the remaining fuel out of the low pressure line so you can pop it off the LPFP without spraying everywhere...just be sure to kill the engine before it dies on it's own from lack of fuel.

When removing the LPFP assembly there will be a good amount of fuel still trapped in the pickup and filter. Have a lot of towels handy so it doesn't drip on your paint. Get a bucket close by to catch the rest as it drains out.


If you're replacing the controller too, now is the time, as there isn't enough space to remove it with the pump's lock ring on. Unscrew it and use the cable loom to help guide it around the pump access hole closest to the front of the car - this is where you have the most clearance between the tank and body of the car. You'll have to get it to the other side of the fuel send line, careful not to crimp it.


When buttoning everything up and putting the lock ring back on, make sure the number 1 rib (the spot with 3 ribs close together) starts at the 10 o'clock position. It will spin about 1.5 times, and be fully locked when the number 1 rib is at the 6 o'clock position; you may or may not be able to get it back to this position with a flathead and hammer without breaking ribs.

[jjvwg]

I've had to deal with this quite a bit lately. On the B8s, just under 1/2 tank will be right at the brim of overflowing. If the LPFP still primes you can attach a hose to the same spot as the fuel send line and let the pump do the work for you. This line is under pressure though, so to avoid a mess, unplug the wiring harness from the fuel pump (or pull the fuse/relay, whichever) and start the car for a second. The HPFP will pull the remaining fuel out of the low pressure line so you can pop it off the LPFP without spraying everywhere...just be sure to kill the engine before it dies on it's own from lack of fuel.
...
When buttoning everything up and putting the lock ring back on, make sure the number 1 rib (the spot with 3 ribs close together) starts at the 10 o'clock position. It will spin about 1.5 times, and be fully locked when the number 1 rib is at the 6 o'clock position; you may or may not be able to get it back to this position with a flathead and hammer without breaking ribs.

Thanks for the tips. The car actually started and was running the morning after t died and the codes appeared so assuming it still does when I go to replace everything once the parts come I will definitely be using the pump to get a Home Depot buckets worth of fuel out. In your last paragraph, when you mention the ten and six o’clock positions, I’m assuming your referencing 12 o’clock as the front end of the car?



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[earhythmic]

Thanks for the tips. The car actually started and was running the morning after t died and the codes appeared so assuming it still does when I go to replace everything once the parts come I will definitely be using the pump to get a Home Depot buckets worth of fuel out. In your last paragraph, when you mention the ten and six o’clock positions, I’m assuming your referencing 12 o’clock as the front end of the car?



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Referencing the front of the car as 6 o'clock since you're going to be crammed in the back seat looking towards the rear while working on it.

[jjvwg]

Referencing the front of the car as 6 o'clock since you're going to be crammed in the back seat looking towards the rear while working on it.

Care to shed some light on part numbers for the pump if you have any knowledge? Got the parts tonight, and figured I would double check the part numbers are correct before install tomorrow and I caught a major issue with the pump I got. First big mistake is that I didn’t verify the part number on my pump before ordering, however the pump my buddy got me through world pac was purchased using my VIN and pretty much all the sites I look at for the pump give me this number, even audiusaparts.com using my VIN (dealer in Oregon). This part number is 8K0 919 051 G. The part number in my car is 8K0 919 051 P. The issue at hand is the fact that while both tank lids have 2 ports, my car only has 1 fuel line to the lid (going to the motor) and the other port was formed blocked off. On the G part number tank lid, the other port is not blocked off. The really odd thing is I have come across more than one website saying these part numbers are compatible...clearly they are not. Really hoping the nearest dealer to my parents house has the right one otherwise my GF is going to be posed she drove me over 200 miles round trip for nothing!


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[jjvwg]

Got it figured out. Typical Audi shenigans. G revision came after P revision and the G revision requires a cap to block the extra port. Blocking it off with a rubber cap and clamp and have one waiting at the dealer for me when I get home. Should be fine for the 100 mile drive temporarily


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