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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    2020 Tacoma v6 4x4
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    Cold overnight coolant leaks after heater hose and cts fix

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    Ok, I had a small leak which I thought was at the coolant temp sensor and the heater hose connection. Well I tried to get the heater hose off the xover and it wouldn’t budge. In the process of to get it off to replace the clamp it broke, coolant everywhere.

    Well I still couldn’t get the remaining flange end on the crossover off, so I hit at it with an extension and a set of cobra pliers, and after what seemed like an hour i got it off prying and hitting with a long flat blade. I guess with age it put up a fight, and I didn’t realize you can’t turn it being it’s notched on both sides. I got the VW oem repair one on with a worm gear clamp pretty tight by the flat blade (so much show it was starting to skip out of the notch if I tried tighter)

    Then I went to install the Üro coolant temp sensor, clip, and o-ring. I had a hard time getting the stock one out. Broke the edges yanking and turning same deal. I tried to get the new one in and it wouldn’t go, then realized the old o ring was frozen in there. I tried to push it in a few times while there then realized. I got it, the old o ring was rock hard flat and in pieces. Then cleaned the edges where the o ring sits with the flat blade a little to make sure it was clean. It still fought me to install it, but after I lubed it with straight coolant it went in pushing the sensor with the flat blade between the prongs from the top and slipped the clip in. Topped it off, job done.

    Well overnight, temps here at night are in the low to mid 20s sometimes, the next morning big patch of coolant on the ground. Because the cts was fighting me to seat properly. I thought that’s gotta be it. Removed the cap, removed the cts, coolant all over the place again, then finally stopped. I took the o-ring off and seated it first and pressed it in well into the crevices, then put the sensor in same way with driver clip on.IMG_4806.JPG

    Topped off to the max coolant level. Bam next morning same thing big patch on the ground. So later that evening hit my buddy up with a garage to pressure test and help watch in there while I pump it up to 10 or so psi. My tester setup leaked coolant cuz it wasn’t all the way holding the pressure. We sorted that, pumped it up and it held 10 psi for a while didn’t go down, no leaks, big piece of foam board on the ground, nothing on that side.

    Topped the coolant system off and tried again, nothing. I thought well maybe cuz the thermostat isn’t open and it’s not that full back there at the pipe it won’t leak. So turned it on let the needle get to the middle, pumped it up to 10 psi, let it sit for a half hour... nothing no leak, pressure didn’t go down.

    Let it sit at night had some beers and food 3 hours came out no visible ground leak, considered the heat cycling and pressure testing maybe it seated better if it’s the o ring. Well let it sit 2 nights, came out and very big presence of leak on the ground maybe like 2 feet. I’m lost, I should have left it alone lol

    1. It’s the O-ring/xover fitment at CTS - the sensor looked kinda wet to me. At cold temp just doesn’t seal.

    2. The worm clamp isn’t enough at the heater hose at cold temp and drips or isn’t on quite right. I’ve held it at running temp, no feel of leak, felt pretty well seated. Seems the more pertinent place to really leak out given it’s location and the cts has to flow up and out this will drip at a low point.

    3. From hitting the heater hose off, the impacts got the Xover funky at the head and it leaks when cold. I guess the bolts are only at 7 ft lbs. I didn’t go too crazy hitting it but the damn old heater hose coupler wouldn’t budge. With the pressure test, I mean it’s gonna hit the trans there and not the ground right away and be hard to see, same as the CTS I think. This would suck and this would be hardest to see I think.

    4. Low probability, pressure testing hurt the rear main seal coolant jacket seal, or my coolant isn’t mixed quite right enough and freeze plugs opened? Not sure how that works but if it froze and they open to protect the motor it would leak, but it’s in the same region where the two things I was working on are. I have coolant in there but between topping it off with distilled water here and there then straight coolant, not sure if that’s at play. I’m pretty sure if that happens it would be obvious and I would need new freeze plugs.

    I’m at wits end here without emptying the coolant system to remove the heater hose to tighten it further with a ratchet (clamp is in a odd spot when I put it in) I’m hoping another brand o-ring in the CTS just isn’t sealing right.

    I also can pressure test again at cold temp to see if that would make a difference. I got two things of coolant ready, and the other side heater hose doorman plastic flange and another Üro o-ring and clip for the driver side. But I want to take care of the passenger side first, so I don’t have to keep topping off the coolant and it’s leak free. That was the plan.


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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings wbrunner23's Avatar
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    Jun 07 2012
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    1955 Johnson QD-16
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    okay - lots to read there...and i started skimming a lot, but

    apparently, worm clamps aren't the best for coolant due to temp swings. That is why there are spring-type clamps on the aux water pump. Worm clamps should work most of the time, but if you've tighten to the point it is popping if you keep going, you need to replace it. Also, tightening that much can tend to create an out-of-circle clamping force, so may be pinching a little and causing a leak. I used oetiker clamps on both sides when I replaced the heater core plastic couplers to the xover pipe.

    Make sure you've cleaned the xover pipe where the old brittle coupler was attached - mine was brittle as well and left little chunks behind, so I made sure to clean it 100%.

    I just fixed a coolant leak on my car. Mine was the thermostat o-ring (metal housing). Good luck with yours

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Well I mean the worm clamp was tight outside of torquing further with a 1/4 socket. I didn’t clean it, just made sure it was free of obvious debris. But yeah they can loosen with cycling and time, but this was too recent. If it comes off gonna clean it better and tighten with the socket end.

    Old thread read need like 15 psi and it to be cold to really find the pesky ones. I think the cap vents at one bar, my tester kinda just T’s in. I’ll go to 12-13.

    Best thing I can probably do is pressure it up and just watch it cold with some cardboard underneath it.

    Thanks for your input. Might be such a slow leak it’s not obvious even under pressure.



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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings 1thenaton1's Avatar
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    have you checked the coolant cap holds pressure? mine failed recently and was leaking coolant out the overflow

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Yea that’s new and leak is only passenger rear specific and only started this major after I did the repair in there at that area. I think I can sneak a small 7mm wrench on the clamp to snug it a little if it’s that while it’s cold. I know it’s a really tight space down there.


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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    IMG_4927.jpg

    IMG_4913.jpg

    IMG_4914.jpg

    The heater hose on enough? I definitely tightened up a lot more than where it was at with the wrench, not it’s got some torque to it but not overnight. About 6-8 revolutions. I hope it’s on the right area of the fitting.

    The coolant temp is funky, when I press on it and move it around some wet liquid residue seems to be present. I prolly messed up the xover tube when I was hitting the old heater hose fitting off.

    There is still coolant is the reservoir albeit on the min level but in there. I gather when the thermostat opens this will go down.


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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    UV dye. I didn’t read that book, but I’m guessing you don’t know where your coolant leak is. Put dye in it. Find your leak. Done.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Cold overnight coolant leaks after heater hose and cts fix

    I’m gonna park it up somewhere else. I’m pretty sure I gotta get in there and clean that cts area and get a better o-ring, but the heater hose clamp I think was too loose and now it’s secure.


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  9. #9
    Active Member Four Rings landfill's Avatar
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    15psi is the max you should pressurize
    the cooling system too. Any more than
    that and you’ll start blowing o-rings &
    gaskets. Years ago I went to 20psi or
    so by accident on a 3 series and blew
    out the new o rings I just put on the
    coolant flanges.

    Before you put dye I’d recommend pumping
    the system up to 15psi and put it on the lift
    and look to see where the drops are coming
    from.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Yeah last time I tested it was very obvious. This time no leak down pressure, no drops. I’ll go a little higher and while it’s cold next time. I think I might try to get this on a little further.




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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Also the leak is kinda far forward. It’s not on a flat surface at all but still hope I didn’t lose a freeze plug. I figure the other side would be suspect too though.






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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    Pass side turbo coolant line connects to the block behind the engine mount.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CELison View Post
    Pass side turbo coolant line connects to the block behind the engine mount.
    Yeah which is the freeze plug right? I dunno just seems weird i have this problem messing with those two things on that side and that it would be the freeze plug just on that side. It had coolant in there but mixture could have gotten diluted.


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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    IMG_4935.JPG

    Well I see a leak, plopping off the back of the oil pan. Pretty big drops every 5-10 minutes. It’s gotta be something different. Freeze plug or RMS, unless the one of the o-rings in the xover or under the manifold let up. Some wetness under there too, but did have coolant spray when my tester leaked Sunday. Def need to get it on a lift.


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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacDaddy's Avatar
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    Im my expeiance the rubber o rings shrink when it gets really cold and start leaking, i had that happen a couple winters ago witha cold snap and my upper rad hose at the radiator, hasnt leaked again since 🤷*♂️ Also if the coolant isnt at least 70% coolant 30% water the pressure goes too high and it starts leaking. For example i have a small leak on the cross over that i haent had a chance to look at so i was topping it up with water, it started getting progressively worse then the last time i topped it up with straight g13 and now the leak is gone.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Well I poked around some more, seems like the alternator is a little wet on the side near the back of the bottom oil pan. Reservoir is at min and looks like a decent water/coolant ratio. With what’s on the ground I thought there would be less in there.

    I tried push the heater hose a bit harder on the Xover, I don’t think it budged... worth a shot. The dripping coolant felt very cold, it’s cold out but colder than the metal on the car. I prolly popped the freeze plug. I guess I could re-Oring the xover and check the after run pump.


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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    IMG_4984.JPG

    Looks like there’s coolant all over the trans here yet nice and moist. I’m hoping that heater hose just isn’t on just enough there enough towards the back is the motor.


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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings LJS's Avatar
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    "......I could re-Oring the xover and check the after run pump......"
    FWIW- I think this is your best shot
    PS- knowing the Audi gods I'll bet it's BOTH

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings zatch_303's Avatar
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    I've been tracking down a coolant leak for a while now. I think my culprit is the thermostat housing. It is still the plastic one. I bought the aluminum version and a new o-ring and hoping that fixes it! Hope you track yours down and get it figured out!
    // 2001.5 Pearl White B5 S4 Sedan 6MT

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