Front Crank Seal

[jfo]

I was under the car lubing my squeaky sway bar bushings and noticed an oil leak. I think it's the crankshaft seal given the pattern of oil spray in that area. it was replaced back in 2015 along with the stage 1 oil consumption test. Can a new seal be pressed in without the special Audi tool I see in the manual? It looks awkward with the limited space down there.
I'm assuming the dealer could probably do this in about 1 hour?

[Theiceman]

takes 5 minutes with special tool . the trick is getting to it... probably have to get to service position so you can get in there.

[Kolbenringe]

The front crank seal tool for the 2.0 tfsi is T10354. The seal can be removed without the front cover, as this is done when the PCV update is made quite often. However, as mentioned, there is no hope without service position, though that is a 30 minute job, 50 if you are doing it for the first time and going very carefully. I don't know the tool used to remove, so I assume a screwdriver or a Wiha type puller. The job takes more than 5 minutes and one needs to be really careful to prevent the timing gear inside from slipping.

Obviously, the crank pulley has to come off, so you need a 24mm socket and a 600mm breaker bar or longer. You need the special crank pulley locking tool T40063. It's 1,000mm long. It's trivial to remove the accessory belt, just mark the direction of motion.

Then you need T10368, which is the spacer. It's designed to mate with the press and keep the crank's timing gear in place. You use the old crank bolt to bring it into place and with the press on top of it. There is an issue: the manufacturer of the seals claims they have to go in dry. I don't know how this will work. I even tried freezing my seal and it wouldn't go in. You need to oil the outside, then it goes right in.

You need a new crankshaft bolt, as it's TTY. The torque is around 150NM + 90 degrees (must be verified, notes are not nearby) and with Loctite blue. Part number is WHT 001 760 (verify!).

My crank seal was crooked, but didn't leak. I know for a fact that it went in for the PCV service before I bought the car, so that is the likely explanation of the seal being crooked and marks being on the crank pulley.

For service position, you just need the bolts to slide everything forward and hang the core off of. I don't have my notes with me, otherwise I'd give you the Audi part number and the specification.

The job is more than five minutes and I would suggest that maybe if you're game, replace the timing cover altogether (use only factory Audi) because it comes with the seal installed and quality checked for alignment. The seal is like 15 USD, the press is maybe 30 (I bought mine used). You still need the crank spacer tool, the breaker, socket, and counterholder. The seal and press are a good chunk of what 15 new bolts, sealer, and a new cover would cost.

[jfo]

The front crank seal tool for the 2.0 tfsi is T10354. The seal can be removed without the front cover, as this is done when the PCV update is made quite often. However, as mentioned, there is no hope without service position, though that is a 30 minute job, 50 if you are doing it for the first time and going very carefully. I don't know the tool used to remove, so I assume a screwdriver or a Wiha type puller. The job takes more than 5 minutes and one needs to be really careful to prevent the timing gear inside from slipping.

Obviously, the crank pulley has to come off, so you need a 24mm socket and a 600mm breaker bar or longer. You need the special crank pulley locking tool T40063. It's 1,000mm long. It's trivial to remove the accessory belt, just mark the direction of motion.

Then you need T10368, which is the spacer. It's designed to mate with the press and keep the crank's timing gear in place. You use the old crank bolt to bring it into place and with the press on top of it. There is an issue: the manufacturer of the seals claims they have to go in dry. I don't know how this will work. I even tried freezing my seal and it wouldn't go in. You need to oil the outside, then it goes right in.

You need a new crankshaft bolt, as it's TTY. The torque is around 150NM + 90 degrees (must be verified, notes are not nearby) and with Loctite blue. Part number is WHT 001 760 (verify!).

My crank seal was crooked, but didn't leak. I know for a fact that it went in for the PCV service before I bought the car, so that is the likely explanation of the seal being crooked and marks being on the crank pulley.

For service position, you just need the bolts to slide everything forward and hang the core off of. I don't have my notes with me, otherwise I'd give you the Audi part number and the specification.

The job is more than five minutes and I would suggest that maybe if you're game, replace the timing cover altogether (use only factory Audi) because it comes with the seal installed and quality checked for alignment. The seal is like 15 USD, the press is maybe 30 (I bought mine used). You still need the crank spacer tool, the breaker, socket, and counterholder. The seal and press are a good chunk of what 15 new bolts, sealer, and a new cover would cost.

Thanks for the insight. I do have the manual and have seen the recommended tools. It doesn't look like there are any reasonable shortcuts. There are some low cost tool kits that have all the pieces(except perhaps the long counterhold), so I will order one. I can't really confirm if it's the seal or cover at this point, so will think about your suggestion to do the cover.

[Kolbenringe]

Thanks for the insight. I do have the manual and have seen the recommended tools. It doesn't look like there are any reasonable shortcuts. There are some low cost tool kits that have all the pieces(except perhaps the long counterhold), so I will order one. I can't really confirm if it's the seal or cover at this point, so will think about your suggestion to do the cover.

Go to around 8:40. This dude is awesome. Much of this applies to what you want to do. You would have to remove the upper cover, too. It's a one-person job, provided you have the breaker bar and holder of the dimensions I mentioned. I was so happy I bought the full crank holder and a longer breaker. You also need a mirror, particularly to know when you have the crank bolt at +90 degrees. Inspect how far out your tensioner is at this point and consider ordering the parts if worn before buttoning it all back up. Make sure oil level is a bit low before opening it.

For sealant, I recommend Reinzosil (not the Reinzosil T). Follow the guy from Edge on how he seals it all up. I also recommend using gaffer or any tape on the hole for the dipstick upon removal of the old cover and on the new cover due to the tiny bolts you're working with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DihEegHWaYM

[Smac770]

The repair manual just talks about disconnecting and removing the coolant fan controller (that thing with the heatsink on it) to make sufficient space, but I think I'd put the lock carrier into service position.

The tools for the job are actually not bad considering some of the other absurdities of Audi tools.
T10354 to push the new seal in, https://audi.snapon.com/SpecialTools...temId=17070123
T10355A crank counterhold, https://audi.snapon.com/SpecialTools...temId=49090123
T10368 spacer to fill vibration damper void, https://audi.snapon.com/SpecialTools...temId=21870123
T40274 to pull out old seal, https://audi.snapon.com/SpecialTools...temId=39270123
For the belt tensioner lock pin, I just use a 1/8" (iirc) hex key. But hey, what's $5 in Audi land. https://audi.snapon.com/SpecialTools...temId=34790123

As for new cover vs swapping, it's about $40 for the T10354, T40274, and a new seal. It's about $200 for a new cover and 15 new bolts and sealant. You need the T10355A and T10368 either way.

[jfo]

Thanks for the links and info guys. I'm thinking I will just do the seal. The cover was resealed when they did stage 2 fix several years ago. I feel it's more likely that the crank seal has failed vs the silicone sealant. This just appeared during the last few weeks, since it was dry when I was under the car last month.

[Theiceman]

Thanks for the links and info guys. I'm thinking I will just do the seal. The cover was resealed when they did stage 2 fix several years ago. I feel it's more likely that the crank seal has failed vs the silicone sealant. This just appeared during the last few weeks, since it was dry when I was under the car last month.

you will know once you are in there for sure.

seems like a dumb question but could you not just have your car in gear and undo the crank pulley ?

[Kolbenringe]

you will know once you are in there for sure.

seems like a dumb question but could you not just have your car in gear and undo the crank pulley ?

This goes back to the 5 Cylinder days when people didn't have the crank locking tool. Basically, don't. It risks the transmission (and those old Turbo Quattros had raceable transmissions). This is horrid advice when the tools make the job super easy and for one person, or one may just use a mini electric impact wrench without any issues. Lots of people caused all sorts of problems for themselves by avoiding buying a 65 USD tool in the 90s. The big pulley holder costs 1/3 of that now either as used or as a reproduction. Why bother with alternates?