Timing belt replacement kit and tools?

[12GaugeRage]

Hi all, just bought myself my first Audi! It's a 3.0 with sport package, definitely a fun ride! It's got 165k miles and I'm thinking of getting the timing belt taken care of. I found a kit and specialty tool rental on blauparts.com, does anyone have any experience with this site? Is there a better place to buy a kit and rent the tools?

[Spike00513]

what he said^
but for 1.8T

[nick1980]

Yea always go oem quality
So that spot is great,you can also check out
Partsgeek
Azautohaus
Eeuroparts
Blau
Fcp euro
Etc etc.
And The 1.8T doesn't need the cam tool rented /bought
Good luck

[customa4]

ECS Tuning is another vendor. Blau Parts is a reputable company. I picked up my last timing belt kit from them(for 1.8T). Shipment arrived on time and had exactly what I needed. I've had the same experience with ECS and Europa.

Click for 3.0 Timing Belt Manual

[Dodaman]

Hi all, just bought myself my first Audi! It's a 3.0 with sport package, definitely a fun ride! It's got 165k miles and I'm thinking of getting the timing belt taken care of. I found a kit and specialty tool rental on blauparts.com, does anyone have any experience with this site? Is there a better place to buy a kit and rent the tools?

Hello, Bought a 3.0L Cab in Jan of this year. Changed out all that and then some. I did use Blauparts for the TB kit with Fluid. I didn't rent their tool kit. Bought it off Amazon, and it worked like a charm. I figured I'd rather own it for future use, which came in handy as one of the pulleys in their kit did go bad after 4000 miles. Had the kit right there to change it out. Good luck.


Blauparts kit I used https://www.blauparts.com/audi-a4-ti...iter-plus.html


Amazons tool kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ2SC6G...il_aax_0?psc=1

[Spike00513]

Yea always go oem quality
So that spot is great,you can also check out
Partsgeek
Azautohaus
Eeuroparts
Blau
Fcp euro
Etc etc.
And The 1.8T doesn't need the cam tool rented /bought
Good luck

Interesting. So far I have collected some parts; a Fluidampr (not to hijack the thread for 1.8T fitment), Hepu water pump I think, the belt itself, serpentine tensioner, new-style timing tensioner parts,
though I'm gonna double check if anything more is needed, such as a couple bolts here and there, maybe tools
(I bought a special tool to untension the pulley or whatever, but last time I just used right-angle needle nose pliers for that)

I see varying size tool kits on the market sometimes, whether for sale or rent,
but didn't look into it or the manual (ELSAwin) to find out for sure whether it's all needed or not. "Varying size" as in some of the kits have more tools than others.

Though for the 3.0L (never done one before) I think some tools may be for sure required, such as cam locks, maybe some threaded locking pin thing, etc. and supposedly they have to be of a good quality, to fit properly.

Though I don't know if the aforementioned "1.8T timing tool kits" are maybe for a VW Jetta or something, and not as required for the B6.
As for coolant, I wonder if a fancy $100 pressure bleed installer tool kit is needed, or if it can just be replaced by hand.
And if it's a good idea to flush the system while in there, with distilled water and maybe running a cleaner through.

[Turbo510]

I did my TB job several months ago, and bought a tool kit online similar or identical to the one shown above. If you want the job to be done right, you have to use these; the camshafts on each bank have to be locked together, in order to loosen the camshaft bolts, another requirement. Word to the wise: after properly installing the cam lock clamp, and after removing all four of the circlips holding the plastic cam bolt access plugs, remove just one plug at a time, break the bolt loose, then push the plug back in. Otherwise, oil will continue to dribble out of the open hole. After the belt is on, and tensioned, the cam bolts are tightened again. BUT- before that, the exhaust cam hydraulic actuators have to be rotated clockwise to an initial position. The kit contains a special "socket" that is used for that.

[12GaugeRage]

Hello, Bought a 3.0L Cab in Jan of this year. Changed out all that and then some. I did use Blauparts for the TB kit with Fluid. I didn't rent their tool kit. Bought it off Amazon, and it worked like a charm. I figured I'd rather own it for future use, which came in handy as one of the pulleys in their kit did go bad after 4000 miles. Had the kit right there to change it out. Good luck.


Blauparts kit I used https://www.blauparts.com/audi-a4-ti...iter-plus.html


Amazons tool kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ2SC6G...il_aax_0?psc=1

Nice, that's almost half the rental cost! I did notice that the blauparts rental has a few more tools included, any idea what they're for? Did you need any other tools other then basic hand tools when you installed their full kit?

[Dodaman]

Yes. It does appear their tool set has a few more on it. A seal puller, spanner to help hold PS pulley. Not sure of all the others.

I was fortunate I was able to use the lift at my brother-in-law garage as well as all his tools. I can tell you now you won’t need all those tools. I used the cam locks obviously, the crank bolt and pins for tensioner, wrench for eccentric pulley to line it up and the small cam bolt socket. Besides that, regular metric sockets and wrenches, torx bits. It did help to have separate 1/4” and 3/8” ratchets and torque wrenches with all their extensions. A good mirror for inspection and magnet for those lost suckers. I did have a triple square to remove. (Can’t remember the size) on PS bracket to get to the water pump.

Also get a diff snub nose mount. The regular one is crap. To much vibration. The aftermarket polymer jobs are great. Can’t remember what I bought. But look it up. Well worth the extra cost. Besides that take your time and follow directions. Good luck. Let us know how it comes out and or other questions.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[pablolizarraga]

Besides the info on these forums, this video was invaluable for my first rodeo.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/21402/106553003

If link doesnt work,
Look up teachmecars.com on vimeo.com. Best $3 spent.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Dodaman]

Besides the info on these forums, this video was invaluable for my first rodeo.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/21402/106553003

If link doesnt work,
Look up teachmecars.com on vimeo.com. Best $3 spent.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Yet, good video. watched it to do my first TB . Especially the crank bolt placement.

[coffeysm]

I did my timing belt on my 3.0 almost two years ago. I used a Dayco kit from RockAuto, since the Blauparts was too expensive for me at the time. I rented a tool from another site and only really needed to use the cam locks to get the job done. If I had to re-do it though; I would use the crank lock, since the engine did slightly roll over on me when I tightened the bolts down (There was a tiny amount of play in the jaws I didn't see). The car runs fine and there is no damage, but it scared the crap out of me.

I'd also get a new snub mount like someone mentioned mine was completely gone. I had an issue with the crank bolts being rusted and who knows how long on there; so I detached the ATF lines from the radiator and dropped the condensor/radiator with bungee cards to give me more room to get the crank bolts off easily. I did have to search high and low for replacement o-rings though and don't remember the exact size they were. Someone also mentioned the cam bolts are TTY, so you might want to buy new bolts as well. I just put them back on, but didn't do the extra angle tightening, since that would stretch them out more (put a ton of blue loctite on them). I replaced the cam seals and cam caps as well and there are some rings on the cam shafts that might need to be replaced as well, but if you don't have leaks you can leave it. I also left the crank seal in place, since it wasn't leaking. I did have to replace the cooling metal pipe in front of the block, PS hose that goes to the pump, and I needed to order a new thermostat housing doing the job, since the housing broke when I tried to take the old thermostat out. I also put a new alternator in, since I tested all the pulleys when it was apart and I didn't like the way it was spinning. I also re-did my PCV system with heater hoses, fixed some vacuum lines, and temporarily fixed my change over valve, but I think it broke again recently.

I would just make sure you have a decent set of allen/hex sockets and I used an electric impact/ratchet to make the job even easier.

[2004a4b630QT]

My local Audi dealer had the transmission cooler o-rings in stock. I was surprised. They must be still using the same connection.

Shit, I didn't use loctite on anything including the cam bolts and I didn't replace the bolts either. Or the crank lock pin, but I did verify it by putting the lower timing cover back on which is a pain. I'll be going back in to do the oil pump/balancer chain tensioner this summer which means full timing belt protocol including crank lock and yay, crank seal!.

I also rotated the engine to make sure there was no contact before starting. Pulling the spark plugs makes it much easier.

Also, on the snub, I'd go OEM if you can. We can't easily swap ours out like the 1.8T guys who can test poly mounts and whittle them down till the vibrations are tolerable. We have to be in the service position to do ours.

I find the m12 ratchet the most useful tool. Unlike an impact that either will or won't, the ratchet allows you to break stuff free manually then run it out which helps maintain torgue feel for stuff under 50ft pounds, and keep from destroying bolts. Having said that, impacts are essential and life without them really sucked. Just don't run stuff down with them unless you really know what you are doing or you risk snapping bolt heads off or worse, cross threading. I need new brake carriers because of this.

[Turbo510]

Someone also mentioned the cam bolts are TTY, so you might want to buy new bolts as well. I just put them back on, but didn't do the extra angle tightening, since that would stretch them out more (put a ton of blue loctite on them).

The factory instructions I was going by didn't mention replacement of those bolts, as far as I can recall. Also the tightening was torque only, about 75 lb-ft I think. Also, I wouldn't bother using LockTite on those bolts; the cam threads are all oily so the threadlocker wouldn't do anything.

I may have mentioned it, but before this latest TB job, I was beginning to get an odd "high camshaft friction" code for one cam. When I removed the access caps to loosen the bolts, one cam bolt was literally finger-tight. So when the ECU was trying to change cam timing, that cam likely wasn't responding according to the Cam Position Sensor. After setting and torquing all cams properly, no more cam codes.

[CTdriver]

Hello, Bought a 3.0L Cab in Jan of this year. Changed out all that and then some. I did use Blauparts for the TB kit with Fluid. I didn't rent their tool kit. Bought it off Amazon, and it worked like a charm. I figured I'd rather own it for future use, which came in handy as one of the pulleys in their kit did go bad after 4000 miles. Had the kit right there to change it out. Good luck.


Blauparts kit I used https://www.blauparts.com/audi-a4-ti...iter-plus.html


Amazons tool kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ2SC6G...il_aax_0?psc=1

Hope you are still here I got the same kit off Amazon and the tool with the two pins to stick in the belt idler pulley it seems the pins are not spaced enough.. I got to searching and wondered if this kit has the same pin wrench but better spacing or it’s the same

KCHEX>Timing Belt Double Pin Wrenches Tools Set For VW & AUDI>The belt tensioner roller has two holes in which the two pins of the Double-Pin V159 /VAG 3387,/T10020 are inserted allowing them to turn https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ1687S..._N9USDbJ3R106Q

[SJorge3442]

Hope you are still here I got the same kit off Amazon and the tool with the two pins to stick in the belt idler pulley it seems the pins are not spaced enough.. I got to searching and wondered if this kit has the same pin wrench but better spacing or it’s the same

KCHEX>Timing Belt Double Pin Wrenches Tools Set For VW & AUDI>The belt tensioner roller has two holes in which the two pins of the Double-Pin V159 /VAG 3387,/T10020 are inserted allowing them to turn https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ1687S..._N9USDbJ3R106Q

You can use anything else for that too. I believe I used needle nose pliers or snap ring pliers. You really dont need too much force on that so you can make due with what you got, as long as you rotate it according to the directions, which if I remember correctly (its been 6 years since my last TB job) is rotating it until the tool is overtop of the water pump.

[Turbo510]

I thought that was an odd situation; having an eccentric pulley that always gets set the same way. Why not just design it non-eccentric like any other roller? But it does allow the belt to be fully installed on all other pulleys and partially tightened, before the tensioner does the final setup.

[SJorge3442]

I thought that was an odd situation; having an eccentric pulley that always gets set the same way. Why not just design it non-eccentric like any other roller? But it does allow the belt to be fully installed on all other pulleys and partially tightened, before the tensioner does the final setup.

Its because of where it's located on the block. Its on the opposite side the crank(iirc) as the tensioner so its essentially a secondary, more permanent tensioner for that side of the belt.