Unable To Clear Central Locking Module Memory

[fR3ZNO]

2000 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro 5MT

No auto scans yet.

I've been having issues trying to program the key fob. It is an eBay 3 button key fob. The car only came with the valet key. The key fob did work initially and was able to successfully program it to the car, this was around March shortly after purchasing the car. Been having issues ever since the trunk area where the module sits got flooded due to a disconnected sunroof drain hose (car is parked outside). I did my best to dry it out and clean the corrosion off the board and the connector housings. I don't know how long it was underwater for. Fast forward to last night and I installed a CLM from the junkyard. The part number of the new module is the same as the old one (8L0 862 257 N). I also grabbed the pigtails and connectors from the car in the junkyard, but have not replaced them yet.

With the new CLM installed, I changed the soft coding to what it was on the old CLM (also changed the WSC if it matters). I've been trying to program the fob to the new CLM and been unable to do it using the following procedure:

When I do the initial part of the procedure the car gives no confirmation of any button presses and the door does not unlock with the fob. I have also tried to clear the CLM memory using Adaptation Channel 00. It says that it's saved successfully, but when I go to measuring blocks, group 003 it shows memory positions at 1111 (memory full, 4 fobs programmed).

I’ve checked the fob battery, it’s good (3.2v).

Also tried the output tests via VCDS and they’re all successful...

The new CLM didn't have any fault codes stored during all this either.

I don’t think the key fob is bad or anything because it was working fine before the CLM got flooded. I think my issue is with the full key fob memory positions.

With the weather getting colder here in Upstate NY, I have been having issues with the battery going flat while sitting outside. But during the above work, I had the battery hooked up to a charger with the car parked in the garage. I will be replacing the battery once it comes in at the dealer.

[rollerton]

Wish I had a good answer for you. I ran into the exact same problem on a 99’ A6 I owned a few years ago.
After being perfectly fine and working great for years it suddenly wouldn’t program new remotes, It also decided to permanently assign seat memory to the drivers seat. I was never able to program new ones or even erase the saved ones.
I never did figure it out. It had no flooding or any other real problems, and replacing the CLM didn’t fix it.

[fR3ZNO]

Wish I had a good answer for you. I ran into the exact same problem on a 99’ A6 I owned a few years ago.
After being perfectly fine and working great for years it suddenly wouldn’t program new remotes, It also decided to permanently assign seat memory to the drivers seat. I was never able to program new ones or even erase the saved ones.
I never did figure it out. It had no flooding or any other real problems, and replacing the CLM didn’t fix it.

Interesting. At least with my situation this all started after the flooding.

Dug into it a little more tonight and found the shielding wire for the antenna was broken. There’s a section where it’s has no insulation and that’s right where it broke from corrosion.





The black wire is the shielding that then goes around the clear jacketed wire. The shielding is pin 7 of the black 12 pin connector.



So I figured between the corrosion on the pins and the broken wire, that HAD to be my problem. I went ahead and spliced in the new pigtail and connector. The other two connectors looked fine so I left them alone for now.

Plugged in the “new” CLM and still couldn’t get the memory to clear or key fob to be recognized through any programming procedure. For poops and giggles I swapped back to the old one that I tried cleaning with deoxit. That didn’t work either. Both CLMs would not clear key fob memory. For what it’s worth the old one had 1 slot (0001 in field 2 of Measuring block 003) taken... which makes sense because I only had one remote programmed before this all started. The new CLM has all 4 slots (1111) taken. I couldn’t even get the remote to program in any of the unused slots on the old CLM. Both CLM’s successfully went through the output tests with VCDS as well.

Ran an auto scan, will post that later.

Needless to say I’m a little frustrated after messing around with splicing in the new connector. At this point I’m ready to just live without the key fob... but I just hate not knowing why it’s not fixed.

[Cybersombosis]

Do you have a second key? If not, know anyone who is a machinist? I had my brother in law cut a couple from a picture he took of the key and loaded it into Solid Works. Worked beautifully. With two keys, you can do it the non VCDS way which is what I did.

Doug

[fR3ZNO]

Do you have a second key? If not, know anyone who is a machinist? I had my brother in law cut a couple from a picture he took of the key and loaded it into Solid Works. Worked beautifully. With two keys, you can do it the non VCDS way which is what I did.

Doug

I do have a second key, it’s a valet/mechanic key. Whatever you call it.

I tried clearing the memory with the key method before I fixed the antenna wire, so I’ll have to give that a try.

[RENOxDECEPTION]

eBay three button for a car with a two button...I would call that a conflict of interest but I was able to program an eBay 3 button for my 2000 sedan.

Ugh I’m going to have this issue with my 98. Stole the button for the panic off the key fob pcb because I never planned on getting the car running, and accidentally lost the tiniest resistor/diode SMD off of it.

Do you still have the old pump?

Rollerton probably knows where I’m going with this based on the other thread he participated in.

[fR3ZNO]

eBay three button for a car with a two button...I would call that a conflict of interest but I was able to program an eBay 3 button for my 2000 sedan.

Ugh I’m going to have this issue with my 98. Stole the button for the panic off the key fob pcb because I never planned on getting the car running, and accidentally lost the tiniest resistor/diode SMD off of it.

Do you still have the old pump?

Rollerton probably knows where I’m going with this based on the other thread he participated in.

Yeah, the car never came with a fob so I wasn’t sure which style fob it took.

I still have the old pump

[Estarossa]

I’ve been having the same issue with my 01’ sedan...... 🤦🏽*♂️


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[fR3ZNO]

One thing that I’ve noticed is that locking the driver door with the key blade doesn’t arm the alarm. The red light doesn’t blink. I’m not sure if that’s related to my issue. I do remember that the alarm would set when locking the car back when I first starting having issues with the key fob. So idk what happened between then and now.

Maybe there’s an issue with the micro switch the door latch module?

[PringlesInVic]

Maybe there’s an issue with the micro switch the door latch module?

This might be your problem. I had a bad door switch on the rear driver side, couldn’t tell under the little rubber boot but it was broken. So my alarm never armed when I locked the doors with the key in the lock. Once I fixed the door switch, alarm started arming.

Do your front foot well lights come on when you open the front doors? What about the back courtesy lights when doors open?

[fR3ZNO]

This might be your problem. I had a bad door switch on the rear driver side, couldn’t tell under the little rubber boot but it was broken. So my alarm never armed when I locked the doors with the key in the lock. Once I fixed the door switch, alarm started arming.

Do your front foot well lights come on when you open the front doors? What about the back courtesy lights when doors open?

I thought the footwell lights did come on. I’ll have to check.

[fR3ZNO]

Here's an auto scan:

Tuesday,20,November,2018,21:34:12:22664
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 18.2.0.3 (x64)
Data version: 20180212 DS287.0
www.Ross-Tech.com




Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B5 (1995 > 2002)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 058-906-018-ATW.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 906 018 P
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0006  
   Coding: 07201
   Shop #: WSC 06335  
   VCID: 2E53E2A5EA4FCD34BA-5140

4 Faults Found:
18014 - Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS 
            P1606 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
            P0300 - 35-10 -  - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3 
            P0303 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30 
            P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Readiness: 0010 0001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8D0-820-043-1D.lbl
   Part No: 8D0 820 043 P
   Component: A4     KLIMAAUTOMAT D56  
   Coding: 00140
   Shop #: WSC 06335  
   VCID: 2D51E5A9E749B62C83-2594

2 Faults Found:
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 
            30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time 
            27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8D0-959-655-AI8.lbl
   Part No: 8D0 959 655 K
   Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1002  
   Coding: 00104
   Shop #: WSC 06335  
   VCID: 3E73D2E53A2F3DB42A-515C

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
   Part No: 8D0 920 980 C
   Component: B5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D09   
   Coding: 02244
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 2B55EBB1D95DB81C9D-5140

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks        Labels:. 8D0-862-257.lbl
   Part No: 8L0 862 257 N
   Component: CV-Pump             D11  
   Coding: 16204
   Shop #: WSC 06335  
   VCID: 408FAC1D40DB4B4458-4EEA

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor        Labels: 4B0-951-173.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 951 173 
   Component: Innenraumueberw.    D03  
   Coding: 00101
   Shop #: WSC 06335  
   VCID: 60CF4C9DE01B2B4478-4B4E

1 Fault Found:
01382 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Front Left 
            35-00 -  - 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 8D0-035-1xx-56.lbl
   Part No: 8D0 035 195 A
   Component:  Radio              D00  
   Coding: 00201
   Shop #: WSC 00001  
   VCID: 2447008DB48377645C-4B36

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 04:10)--------------------------

I believe the alarm code is an older stored code, because I haven't been able to arm the alarm as I mentioned...

[Cybersombosis]

Have you tried the 2 key method and what were your results?

[fR3ZNO]

Have you tried the 2 key method and what were your results?

I have tried the 2 key method to program and clear memory and haven't gotten anything. When programming I get zero notification from car that it's been programmed (no light blink, horn honk, etc)

[walky_talky20]

I am fairly certain the VCDS programming method does not apply to the B5. At least North American B5 A4's. VCDS can show you how many remotes are programmed and that's about it. You must add keys using the 2-key dance. (Oddly, B5 Passats are a completely different story.)

For the 2-key dance to work, it is critical that the microswitches in the driver's door lock cylinder are all working perfectly and all those signals are successfully getting to the CLM. In VCDS measuring blocks, I would test that the cylinder positions and all status bits are responding correctly. Especially those for the driver's door. I think it is not uncommon for these microswitches (or perhaps the wires in the door) to fail. A friend of mine was trying for hours to program a B5 Passat fob. With VCDS I was able to see the drivers cylinder microswitch was not responding and thus not allowing the manual program. Luckily there's a "Plan B" on the Passat: you can program with VCDS instead. This workaround is not available on the A4 as far as I know, so everything has to work.

Also make sure the part number / frequency / FCC ID of your fob is correct for a North American B5. Lots of European fobs end up on 'Murican ebay and they operate on a different band.

Myself, I program stubborn remotes by just force-loading the CLM EEPROM using a homemade in-line adapter cable, an Arduino and a Super NES controller. << j/k, but wouldn't I be so cool?

[fR3ZNO]

I am fairly certain the VCDS programming method does not apply to the B5. At least North American B5 A4's. VCDS can show you how many remotes are programmed and that's about it. You must add keys using the 2-key dance. (Oddly, B5 Passats are a completely different story.)

For the 2-key dance to work, it is critical that the microswitches in the driver's door lock cylinder are all working perfectly and all those signals are successfully getting to the CLM. In VCDS measuring blocks, I would test that the cylinder positions and all status bits are responding correctly. Especially those for the driver's door. I think it is not uncommon for these microswitches (or perhaps the wires in the door) to fail. A friend of mine was trying for hours to program a B5 Passat fob. With VCDS I was able to see the drivers cylinder microswitch was not responding and thus not allowing the manual program. Luckily there's a "Plan B" on the Passat: you can program with VCDS instead. This workaround is not available on the A4 as far as I know, so everything has to work.

Also make sure the part number / frequency / FCC ID of your fob is correct for a North American B5. Lots of European fobs end up on 'Murican ebay and they operate on a different band.

Myself, I program stubborn remotes by just force-loading the CLM EEPROM using a homemade in-line adapter cable, an Arduino and a Super NES controller. << j/k, but wouldn't I be so cool?

Thanks for your input, Walky.

I didn't suspect an issue with the micro switch for the driver's door since the interior lights come on when opening that door. However, I will definitely double check and see what bits are showing in VCDS, perhaps there's an issue with the lock cylinder.

and yeah, you don't directly program the keys with VCDS on a B5 A4. By programming with VCDS, I meant that I use it to help show what's going on during the procedure. I have programmed keys on my B6 A4 and B5.5 Passats before and they are definitely different in that it can be done completely with VCDS and no "dance" required. lol. However, they have completely different CCM's from the B5 A4, etc.

lol, a friend of mine suggested removing and soldering the EEPROM from my old CLM to the new one. But that does sound way cooler.

[walky_talky20]

Yep, it's just Up-Down-Up-Down-Left-Right-A-B-A-B, then key in the remote ID in binary (X for Zero, Y for 1), hold L+R to burn the ROM and presto!

[fR3ZNO]

BRB trying that

[walky_talky20]

[Joe Jr.]

tagging this. i need to program some fobs soon also.

[Mattr567]

I did the two key program after I had to replace my locking pump since the original got flooded, worked perfectly with the junkyard pump.

I have 3 keys total: 2 fobs and a normal one

[fR3ZNO]

tagging this. i need to program some fobs soon also.

Hopefully you don’t have the issues I’m having lol

I did the two key program after I had to replace my locking pump since the original got flooded, worked perfectly with the junkyard pump.

I have 3 keys total: 2 fobs and a normal one

Yeah, I think there’s something else going on that’s not the CLM.

[Cybersombosis]

I did the two key program after I had to replace my locking pump since the original got flooded, worked perfectly with the junkyard pump.

I have 3 keys total: 2 fobs and a normal one

Hey Matt. Can you confirm if there were any beeps or flashing lights when you programmed yours. I don’t recall mine doing anything when I reprogrammed my fobs.

Doug

PS. All you are missing is the plastic emergency key you get when new

[Mattr567]

Hey Matt. Can you confirm if there were any beeps or flashing lights when you programmed yours. I don’t recall mine doing anything when I reprogrammed my fobs.

Doug

PS. All you are missing is the plastic emergency key you get when new

I don't remember, but maybe some flashing? Kinda in the same boat as you. 99.0 fyi.

The whole key is plastic? Damn never seen that!

[PringlesInVic]

I got lights flashing when I cleared my codes, and programmed the fob. But no horn.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Cybersombosis]

I keep mine in my wallet just in case.



Doug

[fR3ZNO]

I got lights flashing when I cleared my codes, and programmed the fob. But no horn.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

This is what I recall it doing as well when I was able to program the fobs. Lights but no horn.

[fR3ZNO]

I thought the footwell lights did come on. I’ll have to check.

Just to bump this, noticed yesterday that the footwell and interior lights do come on when opening the driver's door. Also, when locking the door with the key, only the driver's door locks. None of the other doors lock. Only way to get the other doors to lock is with the interior lock button.

[Cybersombosis]

Sounds like there is a wire in the door loom that is broken. Pull back the accordion looking thing in the door jamb and inspect.

[fR3ZNO]

Sounds like there is a wire in the door loom that is broken. Pull back the accordion looking thing in the door jamb and inspect.

Will do

[walky_talky20]

Ding Ding Ding. I'll take Lock Cylinder Microswitch Signals for $1000, Alex.

[fR3ZNO]

Ding Ding Ding. I'll take Lock Cylinder Microswitch Signals for $1000, Alex.

I'll check it out and see, I just find it strange that it managed to stop working right around the same time the CLM flooded. So who knows at this point. Hence why I didn't really suspect the microswitches.

[Cybersombosis]

One is not related to the other. The fob controls the pump which in turn locks the doors. The switch in the lock is used to tell the pump to lock/unlock and to program the CLM. It’s probably been out for a while. Unless you lock your doors with your key and noticed your other doors not locking you wouldn’t be able to tell it wasn’t working because you would have used your fob all this time.

[fR3ZNO]

One is not related to the other. The fob controls the pump which in turn locks the doors. The switch in the lock is used to tell the pump to lock/unlock and to program the CLM. It’s probably been out for a while. Unless you lock your doors with your key and noticed your other doors not locking you wouldn’t be able to tell it wasn’t working because you would have used your fob all this time.

Well yeah, I'm aware they're separate things. Just the order of failure was strange to me. So yes, the switch likely stopped working sometime between A) having a functioning key fob and B) not being able to program the keys after swapping the CLM.

[PringlesInVic]

Hmm...

I know you said that the battery was tired, but you were charging it. However I'm wondering if the locking issue may be caused but he weak battery. When it got cold here a couple weeks ago (read cold for here) my CLM failed to open the secondary doors, it would only unlock the driver door. Even the interior lock switches wouldn't work to operate the doors. This was a huge PITA when you're trying to load your toddler into the car and have to run to the other side to unlock the door fro the inside.

Anyway, I charged up the battery overnight and the next day everything worked as it should. And has since. It may not help with the programming issue, but maybe the overall function. Maybe test it with your B6 battery?

[fR3ZNO]

Hmm...

I know you said that the battery was tired, but you were charging it. However I'm wondering if the locking issue may be caused but he weak battery. When it got cold here a couple weeks ago (read cold for here) my CLM failed to open the secondary doors, it would only unlock the driver door. Even the interior lock switches wouldn't work to operate the doors. This was a huge PITA when you're trying to load your toddler into the car and have to run to the other side to unlock the door fro the inside.

Anyway, I charged up the battery overnight and the next day everything worked as it should. And has since. It may not help with the programming issue, but maybe the overall function. Maybe test it with your B6 battery?

I was wondering that same thing myself. However, I did put a new battery in it this past weekend and it hasn't magically fixed itself yet. Although it has fixed the issue of needing to jump it all the time.

Planning to work on the B5 a bit tonight... so I have few things to check and will report back.

[fR3ZNO]

Checked out the wires in the door rubber as suggested. Found two wires with frayed insulation... but no complete breaks as far as I could tell.



Referring to the wiring diagram on post #3 the red w/ blue tracer wire is one of the door switch circuits. The other wire with what look to be chew marks is white w/ blue tracer goes to the instrument cluster?

Also checked the microswitch signals with VCDS in measuring blocks 001 or 002, can't remember which one, but one of the fields had 4 bits under "rotary switch position" or something along those lines. I'm guessing that's the signal the CLM is looking for when you turn the key in the door lock cylinder, didn't see any of the corresponding bits change when turning the key in either direction.

So now it's down to investigating the switch and repairing the wires...

[RENOxDECEPTION]

Now you'll be noticing clean door grommet rubbers also.

[walky_talky20]

I think that Red/Blue wire is just power to the interior lock/unlock switch on the door panel and the door warning / courtesy light.

[fR3ZNO]

I think that Red/Blue wire is just power to the interior lock/unlock switch on the door panel and the door warning / courtesy light.

If that’s the case, then both of those things work fine. Which make sense since it’s not a complete break. So, then the microswitch for the lock cylinder is bad, no?