New 2010 A4 2.0T Quattro Owner with some issues

[80HDGUY]

Hi All,

To start I have used the search function and I have read a lot of posts on here regarding the B8.

I am having some issues with my 2010 A4 2.0T Quattro (with 62k miles) which I am suspecting is the oil consumption/piston issue.

Currently, on a cold start RPMS sit at 1200 with shaking (1200 rpm is normal from what i read and after the warm up period it drops to 700 which is also normal). Some days the CEL will flash and I will shut off the car and turn it back on. Other cold starts the CEL will just come on.

The CEL's i have received have been P0300 and P0301. I swapped coils on the Cyl 1 & 2. Light came back on for P0301. Changed spark Plug in Cyl 1. Light came back on for P0301. This P0301 is what makes me think pistons....

However, lets say I drive for 20 mins and clear the CEL the light will not come back on again until the next cold start. Which I have no idea why that would be and kind of makes me think a vacuum leak....but it doesnt throw any codes for a leak.

I ordered a new set of Coils and Plugs from ECS that came in last night. I will install these as my next step. I also ordered a new MAF (this is was throwing money at the car and I figured @ 8 years it could use one anyways).

Extended Warranties for the Car:
Fuel Injector
Timing Chain
Airbag
The Oil Consumption was 8 years and 80k miles.....and I am 4 months past that so it is technically expired but I have seen people on here who have still received help at no cost.

When I take the care into Audi (for an oil change) how should I work my communication regarding the above extended warranties? (this is my first time having to ever use a warranty). Also, how do I bring about the oil consumption as it is drinking some oil?

I know there is the carbon cleaning that needs to be done as when I get on the gas I can see a light plume of dark exhaust and my exhaust tips are caked black. However, the complex I live in doesnt allow car maintenance in the garage. Anyone know a reasonably priced shop in the SF bay area to perform this?

Thanks in advance and look forward to future discussions. :)

[pierreb]

Hi All,

To start I have used the search function and I have read a lot of posts on here regarding the B8.

I am having some issues with my 2010 A4 2.0T Quattro (with 62k miles) which I am suspecting is the oil consumption/piston issue.

Currently, on a cold start RPMS sit at 1200 with shaking (1200 rpm is normal from what i read and after the warm up period it drops to 700 which is also normal). Some days the CEL will flash and I will shut off the car and turn it back on. Other cold starts the CEL will just come on.

The CEL's i have received have been P0300 and P0301. I swapped coils on the Cyl 1 & 2. Light came back on for P0301. Changed spark Plug in Cyl 1. Light came back on for P0301. This P0301 is what makes me think pistons....

However, lets say I drive for 20 mins and clear the CEL the light will not come back on again until the next cold start. Which I have no idea why that would be and kind of makes me think a vacuum leak....but it doesnt throw any codes for a leak.

I ordered a new set of Coils and Plugs from ECS that came in last night. I will install these as my next step. I also ordered a new MAF (this is was throwing money at the car and I figured @ 8 years it could use one anyways).

Extended Warranties for the Car:
Fuel Injector
Timing Chain
Airbag
The Oil Consumption was 8 years and 80k miles.....and I am 4 months past that so it is technically expired but I have seen people on here who have still received help at no cost.

When I take the care into Audi (for an oil change) how should I work my communication regarding the above extended warranties? (this is my first time having to ever use a warranty). Also, how do I bring about the oil consumption as it is drinking some oil?

I know there is the carbon cleaning that needs to be done as when I get on the gas I can see a light plume of dark exhaust and my exhaust tips are caked black. However, the complex I live in doesnt allow car maintenance in the garage. Anyone know a reasonably priced shop in the SF bay area to perform this?

Thanks in advance and look forward to future discussions. :)

So it’s had the timing tensioner done or not? If not, I would worry about timing skip as your cause. Do you have access to VCdS to check your phase adjustment?

[80HDGUY]

No and No.

Those are the warranties that apply to the car. I have to take it in and ask.

I only have a cheap-o 20$ CEL reader. Which got the job done on most cars but on here I am seeing that the VAGCOM is the way to go.

[Spawne32]

You could have any one of a number of issues going on, oil consumption is one, but wouldn't cause you to misfire, the flashing light on the dash is random misfires being recorded, it makes the MIL light flash. Given that you are seeing black puffs out the back, you have one of two possibilities, either the engine is running rich from a faulty injector which is causing a misfire on one or more cylinders (multiple injectors being problematic) or oil consumption is causing it to burn oil, but generally speaking wouldnt cause a misfire unless it got to a point to foul the plugs. Have you measured the rate of consumption of oil yet?

[80HDGUY]

Hello Spawne31, thanks for the insight.

I agree about the running rich. I havent done the measure rate of consumption yet. I have driven the car 500 miles since purchasing and changing the oil myself. I will add parts I purchased then take it in to the dealer for an oil change and bring up the issue in hopes of them measuring.

As you know there is not a dipstick....and 63$ on ECS is kind of steep but likely needed :( . The Onboard computer last i checked had the oil at full. My understanding is that it will either show full or empty...if empty you need to add half a quart at a time and recheck until it is full again.

[Spawne32]

There are other dipsticks besides the expensive ECS ones, ill have to find the part number for mine, I think i paid 10 bucks.

[Chillaxin]

Coldstart misfires can be caused by dirty intake valves as well. Does the car run normally when warm and restart easily when warm?

[Spawne32]

dirty intake valves are almost ALWAYS a culprit at some point every 50k miles

[80HDGUY]

There are other dipsticks besides the expensive ECS ones, ill have to find the part number for mine, I think i paid 10 bucks.

Is this the one? https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/872...k-06J115611EH/

[Spawne32]

Is this the one? https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/872...k-06J115611EH/

that's the one lol

[80HDGUY]

Cool, thanks, I didnt come across any threads about this while I was searching earlier....everyone linked the ECS website.

If anyone else sees this post looking for the dip stick I purchased it from amazon. Part#s 06J115611L or 06J-115-611E. Cost $15.55 shipped.

Ill keep you guys posted on progress with the things I swap out so the thread (hopefully) comes to a resolution.

[Quattro420]

If your complex doesn’t allow you to do work yourself and your looking for a shop and you have fuel injector warranty still then I’d go to Audi dealership, drop car off night before your appointment and then let them put a fuel injector in it under warranty paying for all gaskets and seals removing and installing the intake manifold and then they charge you for a carbon cleaning.

[hpmurdarah]

Damn if ur worried about $63 for a dipstick possibly Audi isn’t the right choice of car for u!


Sent from a place far far away!!

[80HDGUY]

Changed the plugs and coilpacks today.

While the car is in drive there is minimum shake or vibrations. However, in neutral or park it kind of feels like it is about to stall out and catches itself again. I took a video where it can be heard but will have to upload from my laptop.

Ill take it in for an oil change and injectors this week.

I think 63$ is absurd for the dipstick when its shown on the OBC, yes. The 48$ i saved buying it elsewhere is a full tank of gas but to each their own.

[Spawne32]

63 bucks for any dipstick is insane, but some guy's fancy themselves ballers on here lol

[80HDGUY]

Same issue this morning. It wasnt as rough of an idle as previously though. But CEL came on solid with P0300 and P0301 within one minute of starting her.

Oil dipstick came in last night which should help me track oil consumption to a degree in the meantime.

Next cold start I will unplug the MAF so see if there is any change.

At this point I am thinking fuel injector(s), carbon build up, or piston issues. Will take her in towards the end of the week and keep ya’ll updated.

[keiffr]

Anyone know a reasonably priced shop in the SF bay area to perform this?

Where in the Bay Area do you live? There are a couple of Audi specialists in the Bay Area - 034Motorsport in Fremont, JHM in Lathrop, Sonoma Autowerks in Petaluma.

[audiyadosir]

I have a rough idle again today for the first time in a long time and I’m pissed. I’ve already done so much to repair a fuel economy issue I know it’s gotta be a leak from the PCV valve down to the turbo and I’m getting the part today. I just spent the last week installing axle boots and performance brakes and pads on the front. I’d done the back a few months ago, but ran into problems with the front right axle. I have the business card of someone that says “We Fix Audis!” I’ll find it and share ASAP. In the meantime...

How’s your MPG? Has it been crap, too? I live in SF and I drive 500 miles/week in the city and across Bay Area. I discovered my dash was wrong on the average MPG. I determined this by using a gas fill up log on GasBuddy. Give it a try?!

I started firing the parts canon at my 2009 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0T to handle that and a rough idle, which resulted in getting the avg weekly MPG fuel economy up to 15.9 from 11.2 MPG city and at 29 HWY (See photo )



I bought the car with 82k miles last year, single owner and also had a bit of a rough idle with the crap MPG. I started in on the air intake, then went to fuel. Filled the parts canon with a 1) new MAF sensor (I have an extra if you wanna buy cheap?) 2) a new fuel rail pressure sensor (the one mounted on the rail closest to the front of engine), 3) removed the intake manifold, cleaned it, tested the high grade plastic POS for leaks and saw it was all good including actuator arm and throttle body 4) replaced the IM gasket 5) checked the vacuum system to make sure it was pushing and pulling air in the right places and all is good, 5) cleaned the back of my intake valves with a copper wire brush on a long twisting screw driver socket thing and reinstalled IM 6) cleaned valves later with SeaFoam, getting excellent power increase, but still crap MPG. I had huge power gains though, so maybe start there? 7) cleaned fuel injectors and used VCDS and my VAG HEX2 cable to test. I had two spray problems and one injector partially stuck open - eeekk! 8) replaced all fuel injectors, rings and Teflon seals, 9) replaced fuel filter in tank 10) replaced the HPFP and o-ring with a HPFP that failed within 3 weeks. This came after changing oil about 5 times bc it was getting/had leak gas from the HPFP in it which was also throwing off O2 sensor and giving me a P2188 CEL and code 11) changed HPFP again with a pump from FCPeEuro.com so if it fails they’ll replace it and things for a lot better 12) I changed the PCV valve/oil accumulator AGAIN last night, but this new rough idle remains <sigh> and she’s burning oil pretty bad, too.

<sigh> <sigh>

So, I’m gonna change the breather hose from the pcv to the turbo before I go for the O2 sensor. I cannot pinpoint a leak in vac or boost even with soap and water, smoke, brake cleaner, clogging intake and TIP and testing with pressure. I removed the oil cap yesterday and it had no effect on engine. Before it would jump and sputter and misfire if pulled, same with oil dipstick vent. Now I vent the pcv to atmosphere and plug the IM where the PCV used to go until
I changed it last night. Rough idle barely noticeable anymore, but it’s there.

If you wanna meet up and take a look together to troubleshoot your idle issues I’m happy to do so. I’ve been working on my Audi’s since my first one, a green 1997 A6 100 Avant. Loved that car soooo much. I’m not a mechanic and I won’t fix your car for you, but I’ve done pretty well so far on my cars and brainstorming in person is good. I’ll PM you my digits. Let me know? Dogs gotta run shortly so I’ll be out and about, three dogs in the hammocked back seat, cold, smoke and wildfire haze wind blowing through our hair, loving life because I have an Audi that’ll last me 20 years like my A6. It’s a matter of paying attention, prevention and then there’s that parts canon. Hahaha. Hope this helps somewhat? Cheers!!



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[80HDGUY]

Installed a new MAF. Idle is a little smoother but still rough. CEL still comes on during cold start. No change.

I drove an hour to where my car was service by the original owner to get records of work done. I called and they said to drive up. I drove up and they said it will be emailed. No email and now they are saying they cant give me service or warranty info because it is against the law/bureau of automotive repair.....yet during my first call they told me certain items they had done but some how cannot print it for me and redact previous owners info...despite me having it. Kinda pissed.

[Roadtrippn]

I think you need a carbon cleaning. I had this issue back in 2014. The cel would flash and i had all kinds of misfire codes. This was during 1 of every 2 cold starts I'd say. The car ran pretty well once it warmed up. I got audi to cover a carbon cleaning under the CPO warranty.

[80HDGUY]

Yea I suspect Carbon buildup, faulty fuel injector, or faulty HPFP.

I am taking it into the dealer tomorrow morning. I want them to see the numbers through their computers on the injectors to cover under warranty if it it turns out to be them. Also want them to see the timing chain and if it needs to be covered under warranty. I will also bring up oil consumption.

As always, I will keep you all posted.

So as of now, spark plugs, coilpacks, and MAF are not the fix.....for me at least.

[80HDGUY]

Turned her on after work yesterday. Flashing CEL and i got distracted for a moment. Car idles like crazy and EPC light came on. I shut off the car and turned it back on. Only the solid CEL and rough idle remained.

Started her up this morning and idled PERFECTLY. However, i had an appt with service and took her in and noted what was going on. Will keep the thread posted.

[80HDGUY]

Issue:
Misfire in cyl 1 & 3
Cause:
Aftermarket Spark Plugs & Coilpacks ( issue was there before I replaced them)

Issue:
Oil Leak from pan & bolt
Cause:
Whoever did my last oil change (although i have never noticed oil on the ground)

Issue:
Side Mount rubber mount is collapsed
Cause:
???

So my option is to pay the diagnostic fee (couple hundred) and get my car back with nothing done and nothing new learned about the misfire. OR pay them nearly 1k to swap out plugs and coilpacks. Well not pay them since if the issue comes back they do not charge(or will refund me) because it is misdiagnosed.

I pleaded with the advisor that it is not the issue but I guess they have to run through their protocol so I gave them the green light.

I asked if they tested the fuel injectors and timing chain and he replied with 'we have done a complete inspection.' How can I get a direct answer on my fuel injector numbers and timing chain without me or them beating around the bush or charging me an arm and a leg?

thanks

[NYDCB]

Carbon cleaning

[80HDGUY]

Update:

Got my car back after a week. They were able to repro the issue and put in a new fuel injector on cyl 1(no other work done) and recommended a carbon cleaning @ $1400.

I said I would pick it up without the carbon cleaning. They pull the car out and sure enough problem persists....guess there wasnt a road test. They took it back in the shop and cleared the code. Drive it away and the idle smoothed out and hasnt resurfaced really. I am sure it will come back if it happened at the dealer shit....just a matter of time.

Waiting on some shops to reply with price quotes for the Carbon Cleaning. Really eager to get this sorted so I can chip it. The brand new loaner they gave me really gave me the need for speed again.

Will keep the thread updated. :)

[Spawne32]

The injectors on these car's are absolute trash, you will likely need 3 more in time, if not already. At 54 bucks an injector (rockauto.com) you can easily get this problem fixed for cheap yourself, same with the carbon cleaning. The most ideal way is to find a shop that can do it properly with walnut blasting but a scrub brush and solvent is equally as decent as getting it cleaned up.

[80HDGUY]

The injectors on these car's are absolute trash, you will likely need 3 more in time, if not already. At 54 bucks an injector (rockauto.com) you can easily get this problem fixed for cheap yourself, same with the carbon cleaning. The most ideal way is to find a shop that can do it properly with walnut blasting but a scrub brush and solvent is equally as decent as getting it cleaned up.

Thanks for the info Spawne32. I will hold on the injectors and when the others go out Ill have Audi foot the bill as long as it is within the next two years. I am going to take the car to JHM to have the carbon cleaning done as they are the most cost effective. They suggested changing the fuel injectors as well for an extra ~225 for the 3 needed but will sign a waiver to refuse.

The issue of a flashing CEL and rough idle came back. However, when I start the car now i give it some gas to 2k RPMs and there is no flashing CEL and at that RPM it is not rough. Once it lowers back down to the 800 idle it is slightly rough and after a few lights the rough idle is gone again.

Giving it more gas to avoid the flashing CEL leads me to the carbon cleaning. I think at the lower rpm the carbon is absorbing some gas to cause the misfire. I assume once the carbon is saturated with gas, more gas is able to get in for combustion.

Fingers crossed the carbon cleaning fixes it.....i REALLY want to get a tune. :)

[80HDGUY]

Car is now at JH Motorsports. So far communication and Ricardo there have been a pleasure working with. I requested before and afters and I will likely create a new thread of before/after carbon cleaning pictures from them.

New issues that they noted. Wastegate is audible on deceleration and a loud rotating noise at idle. I havent heard either of these noises. I dont hear the wastegate probably because my music is too loud. I do notice a sluggish take off in Sport mode but at about 3k RPM we are back in business. Not sure if this is the norm turbo lag from a stop or not....can anyone chime in?

Rotating noise, I will drive it the 60 miles back home and take it to Audi for timing chain inspection under warranty hopefully. I havent heard this at all and may have happened during my drive out there. I have had it idle with the hood up and the only audible noise is generally a light ticking here and there.

[Theiceman]

i would likely have gone with chain stretch/ tensioner right off the bat and inspected the tensioner through the hole.
The car will not start adaption until it is warmed up ( as i have observed it ) so likely its misfiring when its cold till it adapts. Plus we all know the tensioner/chains are a massive issue on this engine and OP has originals. Audi should have checked if first while they had it.
One of the first signs of death of this motor due to tensioner/chain failures is vibration ( misfire) on cold idle.

[80HDGUY]

i would likely have gone with chain stretch/ tensioner right off the bat and inspected the tensioner through the hole.
The car will not start adaption until it is warmed up ( as i have observed it ) so likely its misfiring when its cold till it adapts. Plus we all know the tensioner/chains are a massive issue on this engine and OP has originals. Audi should have checked if first while they had it.
One of the first signs of death of this motor due to tensioner/chain failures is vibration ( misfire) on cold idle.

The cold start misfires and rough idle went away with the carbon cleaning.

[80HDGUY]

Hi All, I am back.

Just did the timing chain, guides, tensioner and cover. Issue persists except now it is more frequent. Cold start issue is still there and now when I idle it is there and generally worse after coming off the freeway.

Code is for P0301.

Any thoughts on what else this could be?
Things done:
MAF
4x New Spark Plugs
4x New Coils
Carbon Cleaning (which issue went away after until the timing chain was done)
4x New Injectors
Timing chain, guides, tensioner, cover.

[80HDGUY]

Bueller? Bueller?

[Theiceman]

do a compression check across all 4 cylinders.

its either gonna be fuel , spark , or compression.

[K__bz]

Yup! With the iceman on this one. I’d check compression to see how the cylinders are.

Has the car been maybe tuned by someone ? Could also be some weird A/F ratio.


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