RS5 full fluids service how to (transmission and rear differential)

[Overbias]

The only thing I could find that looks close to shift forks was Backlash? It measured 0.30mm for all gears apart from R which was .18 Does that sound familiar?

When you say factory method that's your method from above or actually using VAGCOM for level measurement? I have done the filling, P-R-N-D-S method but think I will do it again for peace of mind.

[Ape Factory]

Yep, backlash. Sorry at work hard to switch gears (pun!). For level, VCDS cannot measure that, need to do it the old fashioned way. Just make sure car is level front to back and side to side.

[Ape Factory]

Bumping this as there are lots of new members. No other reason. You now have to actually search for this post. It'd be nice to have it as a sticky in the RS5 specific section.

[hahnmgh63]

I still think this should be listed at the top as a Sticky DIY link.

[SteveRS4]

I still think this should be listed at the top as a Sticky DIY link.

I agree with you there needs to be a Sticky DIY link for this !!!

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[hahnmgh63]

Bump to keep this relevant for others.

[spa]

Another vote for sticky!!!!

[Muckman83]

Can anyone confirm that the G052515A2 is now the G055515A2?
According to the stealerships they are completely different but everywhere els other then ****s Vill uses the G055515A2?
But according to the online catalog the G055515A2 is used in models from 2014 models and onwards .
So dose his mean the 2014 models where fitted with different clutch systems ? Or Is this just another parts number superseded?

According to ecs it’s equivalent? But according to my dealer it’s not? And buy accordionists with the parts cat there was a change from 2014. Not sure if it was just a number or an actual physical part that requires a different oil.
Iv been stung by this crap in the past.





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[usmcfieldmp]

Can anyone confirm that the G052515A2 is now the G055515A2?
According to the stealerships they are completely different but everywhere els other then ****s Vill uses the G055515A2?
But according to the online catalog the G055515A2 is used in models from 2014 models and onwards .
So dose his mean the 2014 models where fitted with different clutch systems ? Or Is this just another parts number superseded?

According to ecs it’s equivalent? But according to my dealer it’s not? And buy accordionists with the parts cat there was a change from 2014. Not sure if it was just a number or an actual physical part that requires a different oil.
Iv been stung by this crap in the past.

Oddly enough, parts.VW.com doesn't have a listing for either of them anymore. I had to go to the Google Cache.

EDIT: Here's the cache of parts.audiusa.com. Clearly shows the supersession.

parts.audiusa.com web cache

[Muckman83]

So it’s just a new part number. Same crap different smell same. The clutches all are the same?


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[hahnmgh63]

According to my dealer it is the superseded part #.
https://www.audiusaparts.com/?p=cata..._str=G052515A2

[hahnmgh63]

Bump to the top again.

[hahnmgh63]

Thought I would throw this out there as far as the rear Sport diff ATF side. Audi specifies part G 055 515 A2, on the bottle it says Transfer case fluid. It happens to be the same fluid that goes into the Transfer case on the Q7, Touareg. I also own a Porsche Cayenne Turbo S which has basically the same transfer case, Porsche just specifies a different Torque split (38F/62R) whereas Vag goes with 50/50. Porsche of course sells their branded fluid but also says you can use the VAG fluid now that they are one big happy family. But in their specs they say it just requires an ATF that meets Esso spec LT 71141. I have been using Redline D4 ATF which meets the Esso spec in the transfer case of my Cayenne for 70k miles, I had it in my first Cayenne for about 40k before I sold it. The transfer case in my Turbo S with over 500 ft/lbs of Torque is the same one that is in the V6 model with just under 300 ft/lbs of Torque and I'm now at 100k miles on this one with no issues. So I'm just saying the Redline, or a top quality Synthetic ATF which meets Esso spec LT 71141 is probably a good choice if not better than the VAG product.

[QuattroJ]

Ape thanks for this write up. I just completed this as part of my 55k service on my 2015 S4. This removed any guess work.

On the ATF side, when I removed the inspection plug, I had no dribble at all. I measured 600ml removed. After refilling the same amount, I still had no dribble. I started adding 10ml increments until I had dribble. It took 620ml to get dribble.

For the MTF it was the same story. I removed 800ml with no dribble upon opening the plug. After refill, it took an extra 30ml to get dribble.

I used the same Motul 300 for the MTF and the G055515A2 for the ATF.20200906_161952.jpeg20200906_161948.jpeg

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[Ape Factory]

Nice job QuattroJ I'm getting read to service my rear diff again actually, Circuit of the Americas track next month. Figure I should service a bit early than later.

And thanks for the info on the fluids hahnmgh63, I'll look into it. Would be nice not to have to pay $45 for a liter of fluid.

[clettngx]

Has anyone used redline mt-90 in the rear diff as a subsitute for G052145?

It's a GL-4 product that apparently meets the above oem fluid spec according to the redline website.

I have an a4 dl501. My manual calls for G052145 in the rear differential, so I got MT-90, but now I'm not sure if I should use it since it's not gl-5 rated...

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[olympic]

Getting ready to take on both the DSG and the rear differential changes. Ape, thanks for the detailed writeup and video. I'm putting together my list. I apologize if I'm over thinking this, I want to make sure I have all the correct needed parts in hand. A few questions about the DSG parts:
1) For the DSG, I noticed ECS Kit ES#3200790, listed as an option in the instructions, shows it doesn't fit the 2013 RS5. Looking at the kit contents here is the first exception that says doesn't fit: N10037106 (drain/fill plug). In this thread I noticed a separate reference that both the ATF/MTF sides use the WHT005282 Drain/Fill plug. Is that right? If so, is the N0138275 the correct washer for these WHT005282 plugs? Are any other drain/fill plugs or washers needed for the DSG except for 4 each of those (WHT005282 plugs and N0138275 washers)? I wasn't sure why the kit includes the separate plug N10037106 which in turn the ECS site says it doesn't fit the RS5.
2) In that ECS Kit ES#3200790 there is another part that says it doesn't fit the 2013 RS5: WHT003379 (o-ring). Does ECS just have bad fitment information or is that o-ring really not the correct one? Where does that o-ring go? I saw there is one that is used for the cooling filter, is this that o-ring? I was planning on getting the HT brand that includes an o-ring with that cooling filter.
3) If I use the ECS magnetic drain plug, 000857ECS01A, does that replace one of the WHT005282 plugs leaving me to just need three (or two if one of one of my MTF plugs doubles as the sensor mount). I wanted to make sure that the standard pan drain plug was also a WHT005282.

Here's what I have for my DSG parts list:
0B5321371F: 1x - Transmission pan gasket
0B5325429E: 1x - Internal Strainer/Filter
WHT005282: 3x - Drain/Fill Plugs (only 3 because also 1 magnetic drain pan plug. May only need 2 if one doubles as MTF sensor mount)
N0138275: 4x - Drain/Fill Plug Washer
0B5325330A: 1x - HT Cooling Filter (includes o-ring)
N91096801: 15x - Transmission pan torx bolt
000857ECS01A: 1x - ECS Magnetic Drain Bolt
G055532A2: 5x - Liter of MTF
G052529A2: 7x - Liter of ATF

Do I also need these?
N91151101: 4x - Subframe Crossbrace Hex head bolts
WHT005372: 2x - Subframe/Strut Brace Torx head bolts
WHT003379: 1x - Filter Gasket O-Ring


Here's my parts list for the Rear Diff:
Motul Gear 300 75W90 API GL-4/GL-5-MIL-L-2105 D: 1x - Liter
Ravenol ATC Transfer Fluid DTF-1 (G052515A2, G055515A2 compatible): 1x - Liter
N90281802: 4x - Drain/Fill Plug with integrated washer

I already have all of the fluids in hand. Thoughts on Ravenol for the ATF side? I saw in the thread that OEM fluid is recommended.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

[hahnmgh63]

'13-on DL501's in the RS5 have a temperature sensor/drain plug for the MTF side, no provisions for you to install a Magnetic drain plug there. I did use an ECS Magnetic drain plug on the ATF side (big oil pan). I have a Copper washer sealing kit so not sure what size those washers are. WHT005282 is the OEM drain plug and shows a a 22mmx1.5 plug which also is what the ECS 000857ECS01A shows as. The Transmission gearbox temp sensor (MTF), part #8T0 919 565, I can't remember if it even has a washer on it, you will see when you remove it. Be careful with it as they are $150 to replace. Since you have the magnetic drain plug for the ATF side and don't need one for the MTF side (drain plug/sensor), not sure why you would replace the fill plugs, you only need to replace the washers. Those fill plugs are steel and unless you live in a bad rust State they should last the life of the car, just replace the washers.
ECS does make small magnetic drain plugs which fit the ATF & MTF side on the rear diff. The ATF side is nothing magic, the Oil Audi uses is the same oil used in the completely different designed Transfer case in the Q7, Porsche Cayenne, VW Touareg. I've been using Redline D4 ATF in my Cayenne Turbo S Transfer case for 10yrs and now have 110k miles on it, 550bhp/550 ft/lbs of Torque on the same transfer case that the V6/V8 Q7 has and it works perfectly. I put the same Redline D4 in my RS5. If you drive your rear diff hard, tight corners under hard acceleration I would recommend to change the ATF twice as much as the MTF side for sure.

[olympic]

'13-on DL501's in the RS5 have a temperature sensor/drain plug for the MTF side, no provisions for you to install a Magnetic drain plug there. I did use an ECS Magnetic drain plug on the ATF side (big oil pan). I have a Copper washer sealing kit so not sure what size those washers are. WHT005282 is the OEM drain plug and shows a a 22mmx1.5 plug which also is what the ECS 000857ECS01A shows as. The Transmission gearbox temp sensor (MTF), part #8T0 919 565, I can't remember if it even has a washer on it, you will see when you remove it. Be careful with it as they are $150 to replace. Since you have the magnetic drain plug for the ATF side and don't need one for the MTF side (drain plug/sensor), not sure why you would replace the fill plugs, you only need to replace the washers. Those fill plugs are steel and unless you live in a bad rust State they should last the life of the car, just replace the washers.
ECS does make small magnetic drain plugs which fit the ATF & MTF side on the rear diff. The ATF side is nothing magic, the Oil Audi uses is the same oil used in the completely different designed Transfer case in the Q7, Porsche Cayenne, VW Touareg. I've been using Redline D4 ATF in my Cayenne Turbo S Transfer case for 10yrs and now have 110k miles on it, 550bhp/550 ft/lbs of Torque on the same transfer case that the V6/V8 Q7 has and it works perfectly. I put the same Redline D4 in my RS5. If you drive your rear diff hard, tight corners under hard acceleration I would recommend to change the ATF twice as much as the MTF side for sure.

Thanks for the information!

[SteveRS4]

I agree with Mark I've been using Redline ATF D4 in the Diff for a few years now and have had no issues at all, it's good stuff and just as good as the OEM ATF oil if not better !!

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[olympic]

I agree with Mark I've been using Redline ATF D4 in the Diff for a few years now and have had no issues at all, it's good stuff and just as good as the OEM ATF oil if not better !!

Okay. I have a bottle of Ravenol ATC DTF-1 ATF fluid in hand and wasn't sure if others have used that. Good to know people are happy with the Redline ATF D4.

When doing the transmission, have others replaced some of the subframe bolts that Ape called out? Have others changed out their pan bolts? Drain/fill plugs I probably don't need to worry about changing (might have an extra on hand just in case) and will get new washers for each. I am still curious about the o-ring in the ECS kit. The only o-ring I'm seeing in the process is the one for the cooler filter so maybe it is for that? The odd part is that kit didn't include that cooler filter.

I'll probably start with the rear diff first and then tackle the trans second. I'm going to be putting in Ape's trans cooler here soon as I'm in on the group buy so might wait to do the trans service in conjunction with that.

Thanks again SteveRS4 and hahnmgh63 for your feedback.

[hahnmgh63]

The manual says replace all of the pan bolts, one time use only. I did. I think Audi came out with a Supplement that said you may re-use the Subframe bolts one-time but I'm not 100% sure those were the ones. I did on my S5, bought new ones later when I did my RS5. The Ravenol Oils are pretty good and I think it will be just fine. Any little change in the fluid from brand to brand will make a slight change in the clutches engagement. I don't imagine on the rear diff it will be noticeable. I also use the D4 as mentioned in my Cayenne's transfer case but also in the transmission and it made the transmission shift better when cold for sure as the OEM fluid wasn't Synthetic.

[olympic]

The manual says replace all of the pan bolts, one time use only. I did. I think Audi came out with a Supplement that said you may re-use the Subframe bolts one-time but I'm not 100% sure those were the ones. I did on my S5, bought new ones later when I did my RS5. The Ravenol Oils are pretty good and I think it will be just fine. Any little change in the fluid from brand to brand will make a slight change in the clutches engagement. I don't imagine on the rear diff it will be noticeable. I also use the D4 as mentioned in my Cayenne's transfer case but also in the transmission and it made the transmission shift better when cold for sure as the OEM fluid wasn't Synthetic.

That information really helps clarify why the new pan bolts and subframe bolts, thank you. I will be using OEM fluid in the trans both ATF and MTF. Just the rear diff ATF side planning to use Ravenol and MTF side Motul Gear 300 75w90.

[Ape Factory]

Audi uses stretch bolts (torque to yield) on just about everything so technically they're all one time use. On the subframe bolts, a few aftermarket companies specify OE torque plus, if I remember correctly, 1/4 more turn, using thread locker. Technically, they're still one time use.

[olympic]

Audi uses stretch bolts (torque to yield) on just about everything so technically they're all one time use. On the subframe bolts, a few aftermarket companies specify OE torque plus, if I remember correctly, 1/4 more turn, using thread locker. Technically, they're still one time use.

Thanks Ape. I'm going to just buy all new bolts. I figured out too that the WHT003379 o-ring goes on the internal strainer/filter. The HT cooler filter I'm getting includes the o-ring for that so it looks like there are two o-rings in total, one for each filter. Let me know if I'm mistaken on that.

[Ape Factory]

I'm pretty sure both filters come with new o-rings. I distinctly remember there being one with the external filter and it'd make sense for the internal filter to have a new o-ring as well. They're cheap and good insurance. But maybe it varies by brand?

[olympic]

I'm pretty sure both filters come with new o-rings. I distinctly remember there being one with the external filter and it'd make sense for the internal filter to have a new o-ring as well. They're cheap and good insurance. But maybe it varies by brand?

Thanks Ape. From what I saw the HT brand cooler filter comes with an o-ring, but if you buy the OEM cooler filter you need to buy a corresponding o-ring for that filter as it is not included. The WHT003379 o-ring goes with the 0B5325429E internal filter and it is a separate part number but included in many of the kits.

[hahnmgh63]

Another Bump for new members.

[Arese]

Awesome thread, OP was super handy to understand/picture the whole process.

I'm planning to do my S-tronic service (ATF/MTF) + Open Rear Diff on my S5 B8.5

I can see there has been some discussion around OEM oil part numbers being superseded and/or changing over time.

I thought I would post this here, I went to Audi Australia and asked them what OEM oil goes into my car, and here's what they quoted me



S-Tronic ATF: G 052 529 A2
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ter/g052529a2/

S-Tronic MTF: G 055 532 A2
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ter/g055532a2/

Open Rear Diff: G 055 190 A2
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...oil/g055190a2/

Comparing part # with OP, transmission ATF & MTF part # are the same, however, Audi quoted me a different part # for the rear diff oil. (Maybe because OP had a Sports diff and I don't)


I did have a few questions

- Open Rear Diff drain/fill plug
I'm unsure what drain/fill plug to buy. OP listed this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/n90281802/
On the product page, it says "For vehicles with Torque Vectoring rear differentials". I don't know what a torque vectoring rear diff is. Does that apply to an open rear diff?


- Transmission ATF/MTF drain plug
OP listed these 2 part numbers but on ECS they both point to just an individual aluminum washer, without the drain/fill plug.
(1) ATF Drain Plug Mfg. # N0138157
(1) ATF Drain Plug Washer Mfg. # N0138275

Could someone confirm if a copper or aluminum washer is used from factory for the ATF/MTF drain plugs?


If someone has a link to the correct OEM drain/fill plug + washer replacement that would be great

Thanks

[Ape Factory]

You can probably get by with reusing the plugs/washers on your rear diff. The torque vectoring rear diff is the Sport Diff. So won't apply to your differential.

Again on the drain/fill plugs, you can reuse. Copper washers can be annealed with flame and they're good as new (propane torch). Or hit them with a bit of 400 grit sandpaper.

The ATF side drain seal on the transmission is N0138275. It doesn't list material but from my memory, it's aluminum.

The MTF side drain is also aluminum. For the life of me I cannot find a part number. WHT003487 is listed as the drain/fill plug but on the RS5, there's a temp sensor on the drain plug.

[Arese]

You can probably get by with reusing the plugs/washers on your rear diff. The torque vectoring rear diff is the Sport Diff. So won't apply to your differential.

Again on the drain/fill plugs, you can reuse. Copper washers can be annealed with flame and they're good as new (propane torch). Or hit them with a bit of 400 grit sandpaper.

The ATF side drain seal on the transmission is N0138275. It doesn't list material but from my memory, it's aluminum.

The MTF side drain is also aluminum. For the life of me I cannot find a part number. WHT003487 is listed as the drain/fill plug but on the RS5, there's a temp sensor on the drain plug.

Hey this is OP!
I wasn't expecting to talk to you directly but since you're here thank you for making this thread, it's been an invaluable source of information for someone who's never done a transmission service like me. Not to mention that you are still around to help so many years after the original post, you're awesome man.

Thanks for clarifying that torque vectoring rear diff = Sports diff. Definitely good to know

Ok so based on what I'm seeing on ECS and OP (you took a pic of the old drain/fill plugs & washers from your sports diff and it was copper) it seems copper washers are used on the rear diff.
It also seems like the drain/fill plug size is different on the sport diff VS open rear diff.



I already went under the car and was able to locate the drain and fill plug on the rear diff, the plugs are in good condition and have probably never been touched. I should be able to reuse the plugs but just to be safe I want to replace the copper washers but I can't seem to find them on ECS and I'm not even 100% sure what size the plug/washer is. I guess I'll figure it out when I do the job. Worst case scenario I could anneal the old copper washers like you suggested.

With regards to the transmission, it does sound like aluminum washers are used. I'm gonna get a couple of N0138275 washers and WHT003487 plugs.
Transmission drain/fill plugs are M22x1.5, which seems to match the size of the non-sports rear differential.
That's probably why ECS added a disclaimer for the drain/fill plugs for vehicles with Torque Vectoring rear differentials, they have different size plugs.

I think I have everything I need to get started with the job.

Thanks again for the pointers, I will post updates on the thread

[Ape Factory]

The non-sport differential drain and fill plugs are listed as 0AA409057 and like in the photo, the washer is included. I did change out mine but on subsequent services have reused them and I've never had a leak. But better safe than sorry. They're relatively cheap.

Just remember to remove the fill first, then the drain. If you can't get the fill port off, and have to take it somewhere, at least you can drive it there and not have to flat bed it. If you remove the drain first, drain the fluid and then can't get the fill port off, well, you're screwed and will have to flat bed the car to a mechanic or dealer.

Glad I could help! I'm not on here much any longer as I tend to hang out on another forum where there's no fighting/bickering and massive piles of disinformation. Or in the Facebook RS5 group. If you put Audi and revolution (without the and) together and dot net at the end, you'll find it. They've literally blocked posting that URL or even the first part of the forum's name here. I've moved all my threads over there as well.

[Arese]

The non-sport differential drain and fill plugs are listed as 0AA409057 and like in the photo, the washer is included. I did change out mine but on subsequent services have reused them and I've never had a leak. But better safe than sorry. They're relatively cheap.

Just remember to remove the fill first, then the drain. If you can't get the fill port off, and have to take it somewhere, at least you can drive it there and not have to flat bed it. If you remove the drain first, drain the fluid and then can't get the fill port off, well, you're screwed and will have to flat bed the car to a mechanic or dealer.

Glad I could help! I'm not on here much any longer as I tend to hang out on another forum where there's no fighting/bickering and massive piles of disinformation. Or in the Facebook RS5 group. If you put Audi and revolution (without the and) together and dot net at the end, you'll find it. They've literally blocked posting that URL or even the first part of the forum's name here. I've moved all my threads over there as well.

Yes I was absolutely planning to follow your advice and remove the fill plug first.
I'm also going to start first with the rear diff as it seems a bit easier.

Just had a quick question regarding the small o-ring seal WHT003379 highlighted in green below. It goes on the cross pattern on top of the internal filter right?



PS: I found the other forum and saw one of your post, thanks.

[Arese]

Today I've done the rear diff and it was easier than I thought.

I purchased 3 different fluid pumps for each oil to avoid oil contamination. I've labeled each pump's box with their respective oil part number to avoid any confusion in a couple of years when I'll do my next transmission/diff service.



The fill and drain plus didn't have a crush washer installed, just the plug itself strange isn't it? The plugs were also a bit dirty, with some residue accumulation within the grooves of the thread.



Couldn't get all the dirt off using a cloth so I used a can of compressed air and it did the job, all clean



No oil came out of the fill hole



Condition of the rear diff's old gear oil at 60k



The pump has a hook at the end of the tube making it super easy to pump oil in as I didn't have to hold the tube while pumping





Next transmission MTF and then ATF

[Ape Factory]

Nice job!

[Arese]

Today I removed the six bolts (four hex head and two Triple Square head) securing the subframe cross brace.
Was able to localise the ATF drain & fill plugs as well as external filter.

MTF side is a bit more tricky as the cross brace is in the way.
My MTF drain plug doesn't come with a temp sensor and will require a good angle and probably a ratchet with a flex head to get to it. As you can see you can't get to the MTF drain plug from below like on your car with the temp sensor




It took me 5 min to spot the MTF fill hole which is higher up with the cross brace in the way. But I think I should get to it from the right using a long ratchet with an extension or deep socket


MTF seems to be the hardest part of the job, once it's done, ATF should be smooth sailing as everything is easy to access.

I didn't have time to continue the job today, I'll get back to it this weekend.

[Arese]

MTF and ATF done. Finished with clutch adaptation with VCDS.

For future reference for anyone with an S5.
The RS5 has a cutout on the cross-brace that allows to easily take off the MTF drain plug that doubles as a temp sen as seen below.



The S5 doesn't have that cutout on its cross-brace as shown below



It's super tight and a ratchet+socket doesn't fit, impossible to remove the MTF drain plug that way.

I had to use an insert bit that's attached to a wrench. Even so, with the insert bit inserted into the wrench, I still couldn't fit my wrench as there was still not enough space to squeeze my wrench in between the bolt and the top of the cross brace.
The trick was to slide in the insert bit by itself (not attached to the wrench) with my hand then use the open end side of the wrench to grab the insert bit and crack it open. It was really tricky but glad I didn't have to take off the whole cross-brace





Now for the ATF, a warning just in case, when I removed the old internal filter, the seal that is normally on the top of the filter nozzle remained stuck in the hole inside the transmission. Make sure to remove it before installing the new filter.





Also note, when I got the ATF serviced at 30k by a shop (back then I thought a DSG service was out of my reach), they replaced the internal filter with a cheap Vaico! Also, the shop didn't install the seal that goes onto the indexing pin on top of the filter. This is why I hate taking my car to the shop, you never know if the job is correctly done. I'm so glad I've done it myself this time around.

And finally, here how the different oils look like side by side. MTF is the darkest, even darker than the ATF, I don't understand why Audi doesn't service the MTF! Rear diff oil looks like new but it's so easy to service and it's only 1L so I'm happy to change the oil each time I service the transmission.



Super happy and satisfied that I was able to do it by myself. I can now fully service my car without needing to take it to the shop. I've always been intimidated by transmission jobs for some reason and never took the plunge but Ape Factory's detailed "how-to" gave me the confidence to do it.

Test drove the car and no issue. Now I'm gonna rest I'm dead.

Cheers

[hahnmgh63]

It is stupid that Audi doesn't recommend doing the MTF, they do on the RS5 and the S5 actually has slightly more torque stock, less on BHP of course. And bascially the same gearbox.
For the RS5:
S-tronic transmission - Change MTF oil for gearbox
First 15,000 miles and thereafter every 20,000 miles
Is this a change, my RS5 Mx manual is 2,000mi away. I didn't remember it being more often that the ATF.

[Ai_barber_guy]

Dude this hopefully saves my arsh. I asked one of the well known euro sites (wasnt fcp) about the fluid that goes there. They sent me a diagram that said a whole different fluid (oem transm.oil) fluid. But then they said 1 liter. So I got my order. Did the atf abs rear diff then emptied the mtf side and a lot more than 1 liter came out. Plus it was real thin and dark. I unfortunately put the 1 liter in and drove it. Only to get home and cross check why so much came out. Well it brought me here somehow and I'm thankful for you! I'm going to park it up until the mtf gets here and refill it. I'm just worried about the amount of cross contamination now... Wish me the best. I'll do my best to let it all drip out.

[Ai_barber_guy]

Any idea why I'm being told to use g052513 where the mtf side is? Dl501 mnl code. 2010s4.