Intake Manifold Replacement Questions..

[Poodini]

Background: about 3-4 weeks back, was accelerating @ WOT around 105 mph when something ‘popped’, then was downhill fr there. Come to find the diaphragm housed in the PCV had torn, causing a significant air vacuum. Now I notice I’m leaking oil below wc is all but confirmed to be the rear main seal..🤬.
Fixes: Tried ATP-G205 as well as Blue Devil liquid fixes and has actually slowed down the leak considerably!
Also initially did the PCV diaphragm repair kit which seemed ok at 1st but then started to idle roughly and would throw multiple fault codes, most notably P0171 (fuel trim too lean), P2279 (leak in air intake system), & P2015 (intake manifold flapper sensor implausible)...
I’ve replaced all 4 R8 coils, new plugs w/ correct gap for K04, cylinders look to be ok with no excessive crud or oil and replaced the PCV unit along with double checking intake hoses/connections. STILL throwing same codes.
In terms of the IM, does P2015 typically signal its time to replace outright or can replacing the flapper sensor and installing new gaskets an option?
Secondly, if I need to replace, what’s up with the disparity in price between a direct replacement ($550 via ECS/ OEM part # 06H-133-201-AT) vs the latest revised TSI IM ($140 via Deutsche Auto/ OEM part# 06J-133-201-BH). I realize they’re differentiated as far as for the type of engine (TSI vs TFSI; transverse vs longitudinal). That said, visually, they’re near identical and the BH is commonly used on VW platforms along with our A3 and TT models.

Member Spawne32 confirmed that he’s using the TSI/ BH version on his B8 with no significant modification needed.
Has anyone else run into a similar dilemma and have any of you guys gone this alternate route?




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[bb-tt]

Check for vacuum leak at the flapper actuator. Daughter's cc did same thing blew pvc and flapper bad at same time replaced the diaphragm in the pvc but still had vacuum leak, turned out to be leaking where the flapper actuator control arm connects to manifold. Plugged it and it was drive-able until the manifold was replaced.

[Poodini]

Check for vacuum leak at the flapper actuator. Daughter's cc did same thing blew pvc and flapper bad at same time replaced the diaphragm in the pvc but still had vacuum leak, turned out to be leaking where the flapper actuator control arm connects to manifold. Plugged it and it was derivable until the manifold was replaced.

NOICE!
What did you use to seal it with? Did you simply apply a layer around the juncture point?


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[Poodini]

I was planning to simply swap out the flapper Position Sensor. However..the brilliance of Audi’s engineers are such that the way the IM/Sensor is positioned, only one of the two bolts can be readily accessed. Because the other is buttressed upright next to the alternator with zero accessibility.

Conclusion, I’ll have to remove the 🤬 IM just to swap out that 🤬🤬 sensor❗️



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[Spawne32]

replace it my man lol you wont have to deal with this nonsense afterwards, convert the bolts that hold it down to studs/nuts.

[Quattro420]

It won’t be the sensor your just wasting your time, undo the vacuum line of it put gauge on it verify 30hg if you do then re-install it use ur vagcom mvb 143.3 quick throttle snap the value should go to 100% the plastic wears and the runner moves past the stop and that’s wat sets the dtc p2015, the new intake as updated arm and stops

[bb-tt]

NOICE!
What did you use to seal it with? Did you simply apply a layer around the juncture point?


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Used a rubber stopper

[Poodini]

Great...
So I’ve got a bum intake manifold AND a leaking rear main seal...

Spawne32, I know you’ve already confirmed this but, to be absolutely certain, I can use the TSI/-BH version despite all these online/EBay sellers telling me correct? If I recall, you made one minor adjustment but otherwise it bolts right up with no fitment issues correct? To clarify, my OEM IM is -AA with the vacuum system moving the flapper arm, not the previous motor type.


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[Poodini]

Used a rubber stopper

You have a pic for reference?


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[Spawne32]

Great...
So I’ve got a bum intake manifold AND a leaking rear main seal...

Spawne32, I know you’ve already confirmed this but, to be absolutely certain, I can use the TSI/-BH version despite all these online/EBay sellers telling me correct? If I recall, you made one minor adjustment but otherwise it bolts right up with no fitment issues correct? To clarify, my OEM IM is -AA with the vacuum system moving the flapper arm, not the previous motor type.


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Yes, you gotta understand that all TFSI engines are the same regardless of their orientation in the engine bay, the only thing that made this different physically from its longitudinal counterpart (other then the improvements in design) is the fact that on the VW's transverse layout, they move the purge solenoid (N80 valve) to the center of the manifold. Other then that, it bolts up in every way that matters identically to the OEM one for us. You won't have a single issue with it.

[Spawne32]

I mean shit, I didn't even use a power door lock actuator from VW/Audi, I called porsche and ordered the part because it was 100 dollars cheaper from them. lol Identical part. Works exactly the same as the VW/Audi door lock actuator. You gotta play the part number game. I have one of those stepper motors for the HVAC system flap controls, its the mercedes part, identical to the VW/Audi part in every way....cheaper.

[bb-tt]

I can check my old phone pm me an email if I can find a pic will send it. Hers was leaking right in center just plugged it like it was a bottle. Did you confirm that is where it was leaking?

[Spawne32]

Poodini I converted the intake manifold bolts to studs because two of my bolts when removed took some of the threads out of the head with it. When I saw the amount of thread that the bolt was actually catching, I saw a disaster waiting to happen. If you need the PN of the studs I used, I can find it for you.

[Poodini]

^^
Thanks Spawne32 & bb-tt for all the knowledge!
I haven’t confirmed that’s where I’m leaking although the steady droplets of oil on the ground most likely scream rear main seal so I’m betting that’s the culprit.
And yes, the pn for the stud replacement would be great. I’m gonna attempt to do the install myself so any sage advice aside from watching Humble Mechanic’s YouTube vid would def be welcomed!

🤙🏼


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[bb-tt]

^^
Thanks Spawne32 & bb-tt for all the knowledge!
I haven’t confirmed that’s where I’m leaking although the steady droplets of oil on the ground most likely scream rear main seal so I’m betting that’s the culprit.


🤙🏼


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I was talking about the vacuum leak not the oil, initially after changing the pvc diaphragm it wasn't too bad but two days later her car was not drive-able the leak got so bad. Actually found it by accident put my hand on it while looking at something else trying to find the leak. Plugged it drove it for a day then let her take back to school in Tallahassee as the dealer there already had the intake in stock and it was covered under warranty (local dealer didn't have any appointments b4 she needed to return to school). Thank god the car broke while she was at home for once so didn't have to get ripped off by any of the shops up in Tallahassee.

[Poodini]

I was talking about the vacuum leak not the oil, initially after changing the pvc diaphragm it wasn't too bad but two days later her car was not drive-able the leak got so bad. Actually found it by accident put my hand on it while looking at something else trying to find the leak. Plugged it drove it for a day then let her take back to school in Tallahassee as the dealer there already had the intake in stock and it was covered under warranty (local dealer didn't have any appointments b4 she needed to return to school). Thank god the car broke while she was at home for once so didn't have to get ripped off by any of the shops up in Tallahassee.

Apparently, the rear main seal is sort of the last stand down below as far as keeping oil/pressure at bay. Once it goes, not only will your floor and underbelly be doused in oil, it also allows pressurized air to escape, thus creating yet another source for an air leak which then can lead to all sorts of fun fault codes like P2015 and the rest of what I’m currently suffering through.
It doesn’t preclude the possibility of other air leak sources, but it’s a contributor nonetheless.


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[BeerBrent]

I mean shit, I didn't even use a power door lock actuator from VW/Audi, I called porsche and ordered the part because it was 100 dollars cheaper from them. lol Identical part. Works exactly the same as the VW/Audi door lock actuator..

Someone asked about this a few days ago.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Lock-Actuator

[Spawne32]

Someone asked about this a few days ago.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Lock-Actuator

haha, ill have to find the part number

[Poodini]

Decided to go with Spawne32’s suggestion and replace the OEM intake manifold with the most recently revised TSI #06J-133-201-BH. Despite our CAEB TFSI’s not being included on the compatability list (transverse vs horizontal mount) it’s essentially the same damn thing! As Spawne32 put it best, “Our B8 TFSI platform got the short end of the development stick compared to that of VW/Audi TSI’s... A lot more GTI’s, Jettas, Passats, Tiguans, A3’s on the road compared to CAEB B8 A4/A5’s.” Confirmed it’ll mate right up.


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[SLH21]

Decided to go with Spawne32’s suggestion and replace the OEM intake manifold with the most recently revised TSI #06J-133-201-BH. Despite our CAEB TFSI’s not being included...


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Checking to see if you have any updates...

[bb-tt]

Decided to go with Spawne32’s suggestion and replace the OEM intake manifold with the most recently revised TSI #06J-133-201-BH. Despite our CAEB TFSI’s not being included on the compatability list (transverse vs horizontal mount) it’s essentially the same damn thing! As Spawne32 put it best, “Our B8 TFSI platform got the short end of the development stick compared to that of VW/Audi TSI’s... A lot more GTI’s, Jettas, Passats, Tiguans, A3’s on the road compared to CAEB B8 A4/A5’s.” Confirmed it’ll mate right up.


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Does it perform any better than the stock intake? On a side note my CTS Ko4 came two weeks ago but been busy getting ready to move and selling house, also my turbo outlet pipe/hose wont fit. I have the oversized eurocode muffler delete and hose. cant find anyone that sells just the outlet pipe/hose so looks like I will have to buy entire set again UGHH!!

[B8Brit]

IMG_6413.jpgso this one WILL work for my 2011 A4 right??


2011 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro Auto
IE Stage 2 tune, CTS high flow cat, EC inlet pipe and AFE dry filter, Neuspeed springs and KYB sport shocks, slotted rotors w/ SS lines, RS4 grille with CF wrapped badge.

[misiak]

I want to know as as well if that IM will work on a CAEB.

[Spawne32]

Will it perform better? Doubtful, its basically the same thing in terms of its size and shape, does it work the same, yes. It will work on a caeb without issue.

[misiak]

Will it perform better? Doubtful, its basically the same thing in terms of its size and shape, does it work the same, yes. It will work on a caeb without issue.

If it is the same thing, then why is there a price difference of $400 between the two. I'm not looking at this from a performance point of view but rather economical.

[Spawne32]

If it is the same thing, then why is there a price difference of $400 between the two. I'm not looking at this from a performance point of view but rather economical.

Ask yourself this question, why can I get Porsche door lock actuators from a 2011 cayenne that are actually audi door lock actuators but 125 dollars cheaper then the audi part. Or mercedes HVAC flap motors that are 100 dollars cheaper then the audi part. You pay for the name of the car thats all. This manifold's part number is almost exclusively used on VW's, hence they charge less for the part.

[jfo]

Ask yourself this question, why can I get Porsche door lock actuators from a 2011 cayenne that are actually audi door lock actuators but 125 dollars cheaper then the audi part. Or mercedes HVAC flap motors that are 100 dollars cheaper then the audi part. You pay for the name of the car thats all. This manifold's part number is almost exclusively used on VW's, hence they charge less for the part.

Another example....rear spring seat at Audi online...$18, at Porsche online....$11. Both are the same part numbers and both dealers have the same ownership. I have a number of other examples on hardware and cross platform parts. So the price disparity is no surprise at all.
And Audi Canada charges outrageous prices far above a reasonable landed US equivalent price for parts.

[misiak]

So how about we get a thread going with all this information and cross reference parts. I’m new to Audi (this is my first one), always had vws.

[Smac770]

$400 diff? You're probably comparing it to the metal manifold that Audi used on the B8.5 motors. Audi no longer supplies the plastic manifold for the CAEB B8.0 motor, though it can still be found. The metal manifold can be converted for use on a CAEB, as noted on the ECS product page. Not sure why Audi changed to a metal manifold. The BH rev being referenced is slightly modified from our AN rev as it's for the transverse mounted version of our motor. The thread seems to imply the only difference is the location of a particular sensor.

[B8Brit]

Image1538232167.787520.jpgthis is THE Audi A4 part number. Mine is malfunctioning and don’t see THAT much increase in performance to justify the IE intake (stock turbo) for $950. So if the VW intake is the same thing, I’m only looking for a direct replacement.


2011 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro Auto
IE Stage 2 tune, CTS high flow cat, EC inlet pipe and AFE dry filter, Neuspeed springs and KYB sport shocks, slotted rotors w/ SS lines, RS4 grille with CF wrapped badge.

[Spawne32]

guys i have this on my 09 i drive every day for over a year lol

[Smac770]

B8Brit, the original intake manifold for the CAEB motor (B8.0) was revision AF, later replaced by revision AN. AN was less than $200, now less than $300. Audi is no longer supplying AN.
I thought AT was the B8.5 (CPMx motor) manifold, being adapted for use on the CAEB. But the CPMx metal intake is actually AR. Thus why I thought they were comparing the $200 AN to the $550 "thought it was metal" AT.

parts.audiusa.com doesn't even show a "what this fits" for AT; not sure where it came from or what it was adapted from. It wasn't made as a direct replacement for AN, as shown by the need to adapt it with that fresh hose part.
But at over $500, the price is absurd compared to the AN, and even the metal AR.
I guess it's possible Audi having to continue to source that part due to the excessive consumption of spares since AF was a crap piece, the new wave is much higher cost. But it still seems very out of line.