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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Oil dripping from vented oil cap

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    Has anybody else run into this problem? My 034 billet PCV valve seems to be in working order. Nothing else is raising red flags regarding too much positive crankcase pressure. I talked to one member and he couldn’t seem to resolve this issue with the vented cap so he went back to the non vented cap. I’m wondering what other experiences are out there regarding this.
    Last edited by RacerJo89; 09-09-2018 at 05:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    I recently noticed some from my vented cap as well. Wiped it off and will see if it comes back. May have been from my recent oil change. I don't have the 2 streaks like you, It was 1 wide path of oil shine.
    Last edited by CELison; 09-09-2018 at 02:45 PM.
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Alex1188's Avatar
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    It's obviously leaking because the oil can is oreintated upside down. Lol

    In all seriousness though I would check to ensure your pcv system is working properly.

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CELison View Post
    I recently noticed some from my vented cap as well. Wiped it off and will see if it comes back. May have been from my recent oil change. I don't have the 2 streaks like you, It was 1 wide path of oil shine.
    I would definitely like to know if it comes back. This has been going on ever since I finished my build. Haven’t thought too much of it until my tuner said I should check into it. That pic was from a 30 minute drive with minimal boost. After driving 1000-1200 miles I noticed there isn’t enough to even make it pool on the lower lip of the valve cover. I can’t remember if my previous streak was one or multiple streaks. I had just wiped it off to see if it would return.

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex1188 View Post
    It's obviously leaking because the oil can is oreintated upside down. Lol

    In all seriousness though I would check to ensure your pcv system is working properly.
    There are a few more tests I’m going to run to check the system. Searching all the leads I can!

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    I originally had this problem. Thinking it was a faulty cap I bought OEM. The problem persisted. Thinking it was the mounting surface I tried sanding it smooth problem persisted.

    I went back to unvented and have never had a problem. My pcv is completely healthy and brand new. It’s got two pcv valves for redundancy and a brand new PRV.

    In my opinion, it’s just the oil slinging past the baffles onto the cap. Any bit of pressure and it leaks out.


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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Oil dripping from vented oil cap

    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    I originally had this problem. Thinking it was a faulty cap I bought OEM. The problem persisted. Thinking it was the mounting surface I tried sanding it smooth problem persisted.

    I went back to unvented and have never had a problem. My pcv is completely healthy and brand new. It’s got two pcv valves for redundancy and a brand new PRV.

    In my opinion, it’s just the oil slinging past the baffles onto the cap. Any bit of pressure and it leaks out.


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    You were the one “member” I was referring to. ;) But, thanks again Shawn! This info could be useful for other members as well.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Lol didn’t read who the OP was. My bad.


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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    The vented caps release pressure at under 1psi so it takes nearly nothing for them to leak. Now, I am not sure if it's good or bad to go with an un-vented cap since the vent is a safety feature to guard against the crankcase pressurizing.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings m_haiser's Avatar
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    personally id rather wipe off a valve cover once in a while than replace VCGs and what not from excessive crank case pressure

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_haiser View Post
    personally id rather wipe off a valve cover once in a while than replace VCGs and what not from excessive crank case pressure
    I’m right there with ya. My engine bay didn’t stay clean for long anyways!

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    The vented caps release pressure at under 1psi so it takes nearly nothing for them to leak. Now, I am not sure if it's good or bad to go with an un-vented cap since the vent is a safety feature to guard against the crankcase pressurizing.
    Do you have one on your car?

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings m_haiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacerJo89 View Post
    I’m right there with ya. My engine bay didn’t stay clean for long anyways!
    mine doesn't either, I drive my car far more often than I detail it

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    Wiped the oil off a few days ago, did a couple 2-3 pulls today and checked. No oil anywhere around the cap. For a built motor Im impressed. Burns basically no oil and doesn’t have blowby issues. Nice work Zillarob.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CELison View Post
    Wiped the oil off a few days ago, did a couple 2-3 pulls today and checked. No oil anywhere around the cap. For a built motor Im impressed. Burns basically no oil and doesn’t have blowby issues. Nice work Zillarob.
    Hm. Interesting. Thanks for getting back to me! Glad your car is running tip top. At least I got over the green oil swamp thing...haha

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    Haha yeah I remember that. How’s the car running? It takes a while to dial a car in after a complete overhaul like a motor build. Oh and get rid of those shitty worm clamps on your cooling system! Fuel injection clamps work great if you don't want to run the oem spring clamps.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    I swear, every other day the quote and multi-quote option stops working for me. Anyway.

    RacerJo: I only ever experienced oil out of the cap during 1/2 mile runs, but that 's like due to the vented catch can I was running diluting the amount of vacuum through the spider hose to properly relieve crank case pressure under boost. I sealed the catch can so will see if the same issue occurs at the next 1/2 mile event in November.

    For street driving, 1/8th, 1/4 mile and roll racing, while there's some oil film around the cap area it's definitely nothing to be worried about.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    For me hitting full boost several times would be enough for oil to run onto the exhaust manifold. I’d rather blow a VC in the near future than to lose brain cells breathing in burnt oil fumes.


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  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings RacerJo89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CELison View Post
    Haha yeah I remember that. How’s the car running? It takes a while to dial a car in after a complete overhaul like a motor build. Oh and get rid of those shitty worm clamps on your cooling system! Fuel injection clamps work great if you don't want to run the oem spring clamps.
    The car has been good! Still dialing it in and working through the bugs. Weeding through the nuances of the new motor have been...challenging. I had to put those worm drive clamps on because the spring band clamps have proven to be tired and those coolant hoses were leaking all over my valve covers. Trust me when I say they are near the top of my to-do list. Haha. I’ll look into those fuel injection clamps. Pretty sure I have a few lying around. Thanks for the tip.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacerJo89 View Post
    The car has been good! Still dialing it in and working through the bugs. Weeding through the nuances of the new motor have been...challenging. I had to put those worm drive clamps on because the spring band clamps have proven to be tired and those coolant hoses were leaking all over my valve covers. Trust me when I say they are near the top of my to-do list. Haha. I’ll look into those fuel injection clamps. Pretty sure I have a few lying around. Thanks for the tip.
    That’s mostly what I use as well. If it’s something I know I’ll never touch again I’ll use the crimp style camps like factory.


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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings jjvwg's Avatar
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    Having this issue myself on my recently refreshed motor. Is there a way to check if the PCV system is working correctly? I have a brand new OEM spider hose assembly (latest revision) and I have oil leaking from oil cap area. I know on the 1.8 you would loosen the oil cap while the car was idling and see how it reacted, with the desired result being the cap dancing around on the valve cover and and not being blown off/sucked down. I tried this two days ago on the 2.7 and it seemed like nothing happened...no dancing, no suction, no positive pressure coming from full hole. Been a while since I’ve done this, but I noticed that if I run the car with the PRV valve disconnected from the y-pipe that I remember having a steady stream of airflow coming out of it that would be pushed into back into the intake. Should that be a steady stream? Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated, thanks guys.


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    | 2004 A4 Avant | Gloss Dark Grey |
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    i just vent my catch can into two venturi's in the exhaust, seems to work well and pull enough vacuum to have dry valve cover gaskets, and suck water/oil sludge when I forgot to empty it once(scared the hell out of me with the smokescreen), no vented cap needed, and the hot exhaust burns the vapor, and I get way less buildup in my intake now.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings m_haiser's Avatar
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    I like that idea

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Blitz, do you just have one line off the catch can into a bung in the exhaust? Any pictures?
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
    2024 M3 Comp xDrive
    2016 A6 prestige w/ s-line, APR Stg 1, Melen TCU, PS4S, valcona S6 interior parts

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    yeah just one line, I don't have any pics left as I broke the phone from when I did this, but is simple, just set up a catch can as usual and run the outlet line to two of these (T'd together for constant vacuum) in each downpipe after the cats(absolute must otherwise you'll clog your cats). I made my own venturi nipples but can just as easily buy them. not sure if its necessary but I also used two 1 foot sections of silicon hose to connect to the nipples for the high heat, then used regular rubber line te rest of the way to the catch can.
    Last edited by blitz2190; 09-14-2018 at 09:45 AM.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

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