B6 1.8T CVT coolant leaking (out exhaust? minor), not overheating, not mixing?

[flasheverything]

https://youtu.be/JN6NGHBj_rw exhaust coolant leak?

https://youtu.be/6vBsOziwuSM engine running idle, dead center temps

running into a few issues with this thing, major issue so far is coolant leaking and I think out the exhaust. I'll be getting a block / leak down tester to check which cylinders are leaking into cooling system. There's no visible smoke in the morning at idle, revving engine throws a bit of water out tailpipe. Doesn't smell like coolant and the color is basically transparent (doesn't taste like coolant - don't do that (maybe it's getting filtered somewhere?) Did compression test kinda wet with cyl 1: 165psi, cyl 2: 165, cyl 3: 165, cyl: 4 170. I will do another test to make sure numbers are consistent.


some photos of the spark plugs, cars throwing a P1111 lean code since I bought it so it makes sense for the spark plugs color having some pitting and color not being richer

https://imgur.com/a/xAh41eF judge the compression of cylinders & spark plugs

Fortunately I do have an exact matching donor car with same head with same km engine and maintained (maybe) so in case last resort if it's a cracked head. I assume the head is fine on that (I'll verify). The Compression readings on that car is 180 PSI through all cylinders. I'll test if that is leaking or not by doing block and leak down test.

vcds cable on the way, so don't have any ways of getting readings currently besides a cheap vcds lite for codes

[old guy]

A cracked head or leaking head gasket isn't going to show up on a compression test unless the leak is extreme. Do a block gas test to confirm/eliminate compression gasses entering the cooling system.

[flasheverything]

Did a block test, didn't change color, was idling for about 20 minutes. Could there be somewhere else I can check for mixing? I also have a leak down test I can do but I don't know if that'll show me where combustion gases are being mixed

[old guy]

Did a block test, didn't change color, was idling for about 20 minutes. Could there be somewhere else I can check for mixing? I also have a leak down test I can do but I don't know if that'll show me where combustion gases are being mixed

Check the rear coolant flange. Often when that leaks you don't see the coolant leak since it runs down on top of the transmission and gets blow back under the car as you drive.

[flasheverything]

I'll check it but I didn't hear any hissing coming from that area. I did hear hissing coming from (the red arrow in the picture) which is an evap valve, and it does make a continuous ticking sound, and I've heard the ticking is normal?. I'll check the rear coolant flange for leaks but I don't know where water / moisture is spewing into the exhaust. Revving the engine causes water to shoot a bit from the exhaust. I'll take a video to demonstrate. First youtube clip I have shows the smoke and water coming out of the exhaust and nothing leaking from the engine bay.

[old guy]

A little moisture coming out the exhaust on a cold start is normal. If you are still getting an excessive amount with the engine up to temperature you have a leak somewhere. There are really only two ways for that to happen. It's either getting in through the head/head gasket or the turbo housing is cracked and it's getting in through there.

[flasheverything]

Is there a way to test turbo for coolant leak? I know there's a diy tutorial here to pressurize coolant system, maybe I can use that to check for coolant leaking into the turbo.

[flasheverything]

Also noting the car originally had a P1111 lean code and after clearing it I haven't seen it back yet, but I have also not driven the car much for a drive either for emissions readiness codes to come back.

[flasheverything]

here's the block leak test vid: https://youtu.be/Muf7P7-iJRg I'll make a video how much water and smoke comes out of the exhaust. It's not alot at idle, and revving the engine increases it

[old guy]

Block test looks good. The next step would be to pressure test and look for coolant leaks in the turbo. It's beginning to sound like that may be the problem.

How often and how much coolant are you having to add?

[flasheverything]

I'll run the car later at idle vs time coolant loss and revving the engine difference and post results. From what I remember there's barely any coolant loss at idle, but revving the engine does cause coolant level to drop.

[flasheverything]

update* ran block test for a bit longer and I believe there is a leak through either head or gasket. Ran test twice can't really determine if it's a big problem or maybe early stages. Took some time to get to that color, looks kind of green, not exactly yellow like the examples. Before: https://i.imgur.com/gT0uXFx.jpg, After: https://i.imgur.com/o78buX1.jpg coolant coolant also may have sucked through that as I was revving the engine so I'll test it again after cleaning it and letting it dry and running a leak down test.

To do the leak down test is there a guide available for it? Can anyone confirm firing order is 1342 for the cylinders? I've read to put it in service position and crank a 24mm socket. Unless it's better to bump the engine?

[flasheverything]

Nevermind, no leaks out of exhaust when I drove it about 10km varying speeds with fast acceleration up to 80km/h. Temperature max hit about 96.0C or 204.8F then got back in the middle. revved at idle, no smoke or leak. Coolant level didn't appear to drop. Problems so far I see is still the lean code 17519 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Regulation: Bank 1: System too Lean
P1111 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

I also noticed revving under fast acceleration causes some jerking of the rpms and car bogs a bit as well. Smooth acceleration driving normal on gas is fine.

Car needs rear left abs sensor, both rear bearings replaced. Also weird thing I pulled up torque pro readiness monitering for emissions and it keps flashing between completed and unready, I don't what that was about. If anyone knows that'd be great. I used another app and all the usual spark, misfire readiness were passed

[EuroxS4]

If it doesnt smell or feel like coolant chances are its just water.When the exhaust is cold water vapor in the exhaust (a normal byproduct of combustion) can condense before it gets out and it will drip. That's normal and it should stop once the exhaust system is hot enough that the water vapor no longer condenses.Completely normal.I find it suspect that it need abs sensor if the bearings were just done.Make sure the exciter ring on the axle is not damaged.System too lean indicates either a air leak or not enough fuel getting into combustion chambers.However the ecu normally will add to compensate up to a certain point.Check for vacuum leaks at idle.

[flasheverything]

I have a donor car exact same specs but sedan. I connected a long wire from the donor abs sensor (attached to the hub assembly) to mine and put car in accessory. ABS light and code went away, so I'll have to replace that. The thing is I kind of got a head of myself and destroyed the original abs sensor before even testing it with a meter. Sorry, need to replace bearings, haven't done it yet. I was going to just swap the whole hub knuckle assembly from donor but the eccentric bolt was stuck in the bushing to the rear upper control arm

[EuroxS4]

i wouldnt do that as you will then need to align it.Creating more work for yourself.Replace the abs sensor and call it a day.

[flasheverything]

Unfortunately I think original car needs alignment anyways as rear tires were pretty toed in. Both rear tires were originally toed in.

[flasheverything]

Replaced rear left wheel bearing, airplane noise gone. Need rear right taillight for avant, unfortunately none at wreckers or anyone selling locally, geez. I knew what I was getting into, but some parts are just impossible to find without digging. Anyone know where I can start diagnosing the P1111 lean code? I've generally checked for most leaks but I can't tell if something is off. My only reference is the donor car which didn't have any problems besides the transmission.

[flasheverything]

replaced spark plugs with donor p1111 code became p0171 (common?) and another code appears p0135 (o2 heater?)

[flasheverything]

update* replaced EVAP valve and lean code P1111 was gone.