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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings DasWagen's Avatar
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    Jul 04 2014
    AZ Member #
    261749
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    Austin/TX

    Oil in coolant and intercooler, how fucked am I?

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    For reference, my 1.8T has 101K miles on stock turbo; 30K tuned. The water pump seized so it just got a third timing belt, service and coolant 4K miles ago. I had little faith in the car after that, so I paid to ship it across the country just days ago.

    Oil in Intercooler
    Was swapping for Apikol SMIC. Found oil residue on intercooler outlet and a small puddle of oil came out of the inlet. I know some of this is from the PCV system, and my car just bounced around on a trailer for a week, but still, it seemed worrisome. I haven't put in the Apikol SMIC to avoid gumming up the new core. oil was clean
    My turbo is old but hasn't given any other cause for alarm. Pictured is what dripped out. There is more but removing that elbow is a bitch.



    Oil in Coolant
    This has been an issue for fucking ages. In May (5K miles ago) I replaced the oil-to-water oil cooler, expansion tank, and flushed twice with rad-flush. 14 fills with DI water later, and the coolant drained cleaner but not clear. A lot of oil sediment came out in the first half of flushes, but not later on. When I replaced the timing belt less than a thousand miles later, I also swapped the coolant flange (was seeping slightly) and the valve cover gasket. I have been watching this for a while; usually, my oil level won't drop by a detectable level, and always drains clean, but it is currently low.


    This engine's valve train looks fantastic, as does the rest of the car, but a bad turbo and head gasket would really suck. Thoughts?
    Last edited by DasWagen; 09-03-2018 at 11:08 AM.
    2002 1.8MT Naturally low stock springs | APR 1+ | 710n | BKR7Es 2.0 coils | B7 Brakes | 034 RSB

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings Ol Dirty Noodle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    84604
    My Garage
    Raccoons and Feces
    Location
    Nassau/LI/NY(the poor part)

    Sounds like you’re head gasket fucked due to overheating caused by the water pump seizing

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings DasWagen's Avatar
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    Jul 04 2014
    AZ Member #
    261749
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    Austin/TX

    Quote Originally Posted by Ol Dirty Noodle View Post
    Sounds like you’re head gasket fucked due to overheating caused by the water pump seizing
    Water pump seized well after I started having dirty coolant. So the order is a bit off, but I wouldn't be surprised if they're related
    2002 1.8MT Naturally low stock springs | APR 1+ | 710n | BKR7Es 2.0 coils | B7 Brakes | 034 RSB

  4. #4
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Sep 26 2018
    AZ Member #
    427566
    Location
    Pa

    When you mentioned DI water did you mean distilled or deionized? Hopefully it's distilled. Deionized water should never be put in any vehicle or much of anything else for that matter. It will naturally try to find it's ion balance and suck minerals out of whatever it comes in contact with. How do I know this? Some clown at work decided it would be good to put it in all of our chilled loop systems. Multiple clogged passages due to the stripping of minerals mostly from what became sacrificial aluminum and leaks out the wazoo in short order proved our point that it wasnt a good idea. Hundreds of thousands of dollars in replacement parts and multiple flushes later the damage has been corrected and all is well with regular old DISTILLED water and glycol.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Jun 27 2011
    AZ Member #
    77478
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Oil in the coolant could just be a bad oil cooler. I had that a while back and a new cooler and gasket solved it. Give that a go before you start tearing into the engine.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  6. #6
    Junior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 15 2018
    AZ Member #
    428939
    Location
    San Diego, CA

    Does anyone have a photo of what Oil Residue in the coolant looks like???

    I am working on my 2002 A4 1.8T 115Kmiles myself (1st time) and replacing many parts in the coolant system. I posted photos in post https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...er-Corehttp://.

    Flushing the heater core there was a light brown residue sediment that I clearly determined it was heavier than water and surely not oil. I was thinking this is oxidized coolant that has accumulated, but don't really know.

    I am replacing the Oil Cooler only because there was a slow leak at one of the coolant hoses and the nippled was partially corroded away. I bought an aftermarket Uro brand Oil Cooler at a 10th the $210 price of the dealer part. I am just now getting around to putting everything back together but having some 2nd thoughts about installing the much cheaper after+market oil cooler.

    I never had a chance to pressure test the coolant system before the heater core hose snapped while driving. I have thought about pressure testing the old oil cooler that has been taken off just out of curiosity, but not really necessary since I am replacing it.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Quote Originally Posted by a4bradsd View Post
    Does anyone have a photo of what Oil Residue in the coolant looks like???
    Here's a severe case. This was from a defective oil cooler.

    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 27 2011
    AZ Member #
    77478
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    I put a Dorman brand cooler from Napa in my b6 and as far as I know it’s still working fine for the PO. Held up for 2 years under my ownership, I just had to retighten the nut holding it on after a heat cycle due to the oring settling in.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings PSI NRG's Avatar
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    Feb 24 2008
    AZ Member #
    25668
    Location
    USA

    Oil in the intercooler/piping is pretty normal. Especially if you're still on the OEM K03 at that mileage. Check shaft play on the turbo and if that checks out, go through your PCV system and make sure it's up to par.

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings DasWagen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 04 2014
    AZ Member #
    261749
    Location
    Austin/TX

    Quote Originally Posted by a4bradsd View Post
    Does anyone have a photo of what Oil Residue in the coolant looks like???

    I am working on my 2002 A4 1.8T 115Kmiles myself (1st time) and replacing many parts in the coolant system. I posted photos in post https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...er-Corehttp://.

    Flushing the heater core there was a light brown residue sediment that I clearly determined it was heavier than water and surely not oil. I was thinking this is oxidized coolant that has accumulated, but don't really know.

    I am replacing the Oil Cooler only because there was a slow leak at one of the coolant hoses and the nippled was partially corroded away. I bought an aftermarket Uro brand Oil Cooler at a 10th the $210 price of the dealer part. I am just now getting around to putting everything back together but having some 2nd thoughts about installing the much cheaper after+market oil cooler.

    I never had a chance to pressure test the coolant system before the heater core hose snapped while driving. I have thought about pressure testing the old oil cooler that has been taken off just out of curiosity, but not really necessary since I am replacing it.
    The reisdue you posted def didn't look like anything I had in mine. Nor did it reeally look like what Old Guy shared. I guess I shoul've taken some good pics before ripping the head off . My car also never had a history of coolant leaks nor needed a top off.

    What happened for me is that I'd get a slim amount of oil like this
    on the first drain followed by an unlimited amount of orange/brown sediment which would never stop comming out flush after flush. This sediment would dry in the hoses if you let it but was slimy if you touch it wet, such as in the tank. I could brown a coolant tank in a month
    2002 1.8MT Naturally low stock springs | APR 1+ | 710n | BKR7Es 2.0 coils | B7 Brakes | 034 RSB

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings A1EK's Avatar
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    Jan 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    391231
    Location
    Scotland

    This is a common issue.

    To determine the problem first check your dip-stick and see if there is any emlusified oil in your engine, if the oil is normal with no brown sludge then the issue is more than likely just your oil cooler. If no smoke comes out the exhaust and no loss of power then happy days.
    There is rubber seal that sits on the oil cooler and can leak if not correctly fitted or just shrinks over time. The Rubber O -ring is only £2 and the oil cooler you can buy for about £25 and is easy to fit. You need to ensure that you correctly torque the locking nut to prevent the issue happening again.

    The tricky bit is flushing out your coolant... let me know how you get on with the above then I will advise on flushing.

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