A4 Battery replacement and coding

[seangoodwin007]

I never understood the whole I'm not gonna code the battery, like someone said earlier if you own a VAG car you should have a VCDS. I'm on my original battery in my 09 Avant and when it does go I'm going with another Varta. Those are the only batteries I will use and I'm coding it. Why take chances with the easiest and most important single part of your car to change. I really doubt those other batteries will last that long but I could be wrong.

I’m looking at replacing mine same car as yours what you thinking of going with? Mines a 3.0 tdi 110ah battery


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bluetori]

Varta, I believe mine calls for a 105ah. The Avant's run different batteries than sedans do, and I know you said you have an estate so make sure it says it's for that as well.

[Smac770]

Which battery your car was built with is defined by the PR code for the battery. There seems to be no organization of which PR code is associated with which vehicle configuration. My 2.0T avant has a J0B. Another's 3.2L sedan has a J0Z, apparently same as the 3.0 TDI. Blue seems to have J0P, for who knows what reason. There seems to be a regular and AGM for each of three battery sizes for our cars; the non-AGM always seems to have a bit more Ah and a bit less cca. You'll also notice in the current part number revision letters, the AGM are Cx (such as CE for mine) and the regular are Dx (such as DL for the J0Z). I do not know if the regular batteries would be considered EFB (enhanced flooded battery) for stop/start applications. Euro B8 had stop/start, maybe they only used AGMs. The cca are DIN standard, thus why the numbers seem low. My 520A DIN is also marked 850A EN.

group 94R:
J1N, 75Ah, 420A, AGM
J0R, 80Ah, 380A, regular

group 49:
J0B, 92Ah, 520A, AGM
J1U, 95Ah, 450A, regular

group 95R:
J0P, 105Ah, 580A, AGM
J0Z, 110Ah, 520A, regular

There's plenty of battery brands with specs the same as; I see no reason to stay OE. I have a Napa Legend Premium (group 49, 92Ah, 850cca, AGM) in there now. Turns out my factory one was still fine; it was the alternator pulley. But left the Napa in and it's been perfectly fine.

[Theiceman]

Which battery your car was built with is defined by the PR code for the battery. There seems to be no organization of which PR code is associated with which vehicle configuration. My 2.0T avant has a J0B. Another's 3.2L sedan has a J0Z, apparently same as the 3.0 TDI. Blue seems to have J0P, for who knows what reason. There seems to be a regular and AGM for each of three battery sizes for our cars; the non-AGM always seems to have a bit more Ah and a bit less cca. You'll also notice in the current part number revision letters, the AGM are Cx (such as CE for mine) and the regular are Dx (such as DL for the J0Z). I do not know if the regular batteries would be considered EFB (enhanced flooded battery) for stop/start applications. Euro B8 had stop/start, maybe they only used AGMs. The cca are DIN standard, thus why the numbers seem low. My 520A DIN is also marked 850A EN.

group 94R:
J0R, 80Ah, 380A, regular
J1N, 75Ah, 420A, AGM

group 49:
J0B, 92Ah, 520A, AGM
J1U, 95Ah, 450A, regular

group 95R:
J0P, 105Ah, 580A, AGM
J0Z, 110Ah, 520A, regular

There's plenty of battery brands with specs the same as; I see no reason to stay OE. I have a Napa Legend Premium (group 49, 92Ah, 850cca, AGM) in there now. Turns out my factory one was still fine; it was the alternator pulley. But left the Napa in and it's been perfectly fine.

so how did you code the napa as the data it asks for would not match yours ? for example im not sure you could select manufacturer as NAPA fin VCDS.

im gonna report back what mine is just for data gathering

[Smac770]

There is no BEM code for pretty much any battery out there you can buy. Maybe those directly from Audi, but I've seen it posted before that a dealership battery lacked a BEM sticker.

Take my battery. My car was built in August 2008. The part number for the J0B at that time was 4F0 915 105 E. That's what is on the BEM sticker, and that's what is set in the adaptation. Then VAR and then "serial number".

The part number for the J0B today as a field purchase is 000 915 105 CE (it's always xxx 915 105 for the battery, guess they decided to centralize to a no-parts-bin-specific 000 because why not). But if I attempt to put that in, it doesn't like it. My J533 is running firmware from before that part number's existence. I assume this is why Audi got more of a clue and the newer UDS versions just ask for the Ah value (it can guess AGM vs EFB based on internal resistance, assuming the battery is not defective). Same for the vendor code list, who "really" makes that battery? Likely JCI, but what really is the value of the letters to the runtime operation? If anyone knows, ....

In the end, my J533 already knows how to manage a 92Ah, 850cca, AGM battery. There's no need to do anything but give it a new serial number so the J533 energy management and J367 BDM statistics can restart.

If you were trying to change to a different battery type, like a different Ah or AGM vs not, you'd need to figure out a part number representative of that PR code which the J533 would accept. Which isn't too hard to do.

[Theiceman]

There is no BEM code for pretty much any battery out there you can buy. Maybe those directly from Audi, but I've seen it posted before that a dealership battery lacked a BEM sticker.

Take my battery. My car was built in August 2008. The part number for the J0B at that time was 4F0 915 105 E. That's what is on the BEM sticker, and that's what is set in the adaptation. Then VAR and then "serial number".

The part number for the J0B today as a field purchase is 000 915 105 CE (it's always xxx 915 105 for the battery, guess they decided to centralize to a no-parts-bin-specific 000 because why not). But if I attempt to put that in, it doesn't like it. My J533 is running firmware from before that part number's existence. I assume this is why Audi got more of a clue and the newer UDS versions just ask for the Ah value (it can guess AGM vs EFB based on internal resistance, assuming the battery is not defective). Same for the vendor code list, who "really" makes that battery? Likely JCI, but what really is the value of the letters to the runtime operation? If anyone knows, ....

In the end, my J533 already knows how to manage a 92Ah, 850cca, AGM battery. There's no need to do anything but give it a new serial number so the J533 energy management and J367 BDM statistics can restart.

If you were trying to change to a different battery type, like a different Ah or AGM vs not, you'd need to figure out a part number representative of that PR code which the J533 would accept. Which isn't too hard to do.

thats probably where i got the info of " just change one digit on the serial number," it thinks its a brand new battery of the same type.

[Smac770]

If I pull the battery change history from my J533, I have:

entry 1, 2008 Aug 14, 4F0915105E , JCB, 580724O095, 09995, 13959
entry 2, 2008 May 27, 4F0915105E , JCB, 0002395847, 10007, 00287
entry 3, 2019 Jan 30, 4F0915105E , JCB, 0002395999, 10004, 02301

Notice the extra space after the E, part number is 11 chars.
The interesting thing is that entry 1. Because the vendor code on the factory BEM is VA0, not JCB.
The date for entry 2 is messed up because after putting in the NAPA battery, I didn't reset the date/time on the car before doing the battery adaptation.
Then I did it again because the term 30 was staying low and wondered if things were not taking. So I changed the last few digits to "be a new battery". No change in behavior, took a while but eventually the car was hanging in the 12.4 range instead of the 12.2 range.

The serial number in the BEM code is supposedly YYMMDDSSSS (s = serial, YYMMDD = exactly what you think it is). As you notice, the serial number on my NAPA battery does not adhere to that format. Would there be value in at least changing the first six of the serial to a viable date representative of the new battery? Maybe, but look at that serial number for my factory battery. It's clearly not YYMMDDssss. So that 10 digit serial is the one actually off my battery, but the formatting of the numbers means zilch.

I don't know what the extra fields from the history data for battery change means, I included them because they were there. Actually, they are the values from block 022, total energy balance and total energy throughput. I don't think throughput is the right English word here, output is probably more correct. So in 10.5 years, almost 14kAh came out of my battery. And in the almost two years on the new one, 2.3kAh has come out. 10kAh energy balance; I'm not sure atm what exactly that's supposed to imply, or how it relates to 92Ah. The measuring blocks have never shown the battery capacity anywhere near 92Ah, on the old or new battery. At 87% SoC, my current comes in at 63Ah.

[Theiceman]

damn Germans, i just want it to start my car for christs sake ..

[seangoodwin007]

Varta, I believe mine calls for a 105ah. The Avant's run different batteries than sedans do, and I know you said you have an estate so make sure it says it's for that as well.

That’s the make I was going for i1 varta silver dynamic 110ah £109.50 plus shipping at Tanya. Just need to sort this coding lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[audrobotic]

I never understood the whole I'm not gonna code the battery, like someone said earlier if you own a VAG car you should have a VCDS. I'm on my original battery in my 09 Avant and when it does go I'm going with another Varta. Those are the only batteries I will use and I'm coding it. Why take chances with the easiest and most important single part of your car to change. I really doubt those other batteries will last that long but I could be wrong.

Well in the early 2000s Johnson Controls bought the Varta brand. Then Johnson Controls auto batteries sold to a new entity called Clarios. So nothing special about a Varta battery.

So with battery coding I guess I'm in the Dana Carvey school of thought - Not gonna do it. (But I would do if I had a a flashing low battery message). After about 14 months and 5000 miles later, it's now consistently hitting 100% in the MMI, whereas before it would hover around 80-90%. We shall see how long my battery lasts. Stubborn as a mule I am. JK.

[SlverB]

Replaced my battery in my 2014 b8.5 last night. Had a 15% off coupon for battery and installation from the Audi dealer so I got the battery for $180 and I took it home and popped it in. Wasn't sure I was gonna code it but it was actually really simple.

Everything you need is on the battery it's self. The the part number is on the top and the serial number is visible if you use your smartphone camera to look at the square qr code on the back. I did the coding in my obdeleven app with my smart phone. I have yet to find a single think that my obdeleven can't do compared to vag-com.

Before and after screen shots below

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Excellent! Question did you scan the QR sticker or the laser etched QR directly on the battery? I'd love to be able to get this done! OBDEleven is ready but I ve got not useful serial # HELP!