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  1. #1
    Junior Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Dec 08 2016
    AZ Member #
    387776
    Location
    charlotte

    B8 REAR wheel hub bearing replacement

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    I have searched and searched and searched and I can not find any steps on replacing the rear wheel hub bearing. My car is a 2011 A4 Quattro. I have the axel nut, caliper, and rotor removed. I can not for the life of me get the 4 torq bolts off that hold the hub assembly on. All of the control arms and suspension components are in the way for me to get on the bolts. Do I need to remove more components or at I missing something? Any advice appreciated

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings jfo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2010
    AZ Member #
    67149
    Location
    Courtenay, BC, Canada

    You need to remove the spring and then the entire housing assembly to remove the hub/bearing assembly. The two bottom bolts for the hub are not easily accessible. An individual in this thread managed to modify a socket and remove them, but they will not be easy, particularly on an older car that may have been exposed to winter salt. I needed to replace a broken spring and took mine to my dealer. I had them do the bearing at the same time, since they were original. They had a tough time with a couple of the other bolts also.
    Even on the fronts where access is clear, I had a very hard time breaking the hub bolts free with a breaker bar. There is no way I could expect to do those bottom bolts on the rear using the wrench and socket in this thread...

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...el-bearing-DIY

    And those bolts are triple square, not torx. You will likely strip them if you try using a torx, even though it may seem to fit.
    2011 A4 Avant

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 21 2015
    AZ Member #
    357021
    Location
    Indiana

    I did it on a B8.5 using a stubby triple square bit and a box end wrench. It can be done, but it wasn't great.

    You could use something like this:

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../019297sch01a/

    I was able to find the right triple square socket at Autozone (they don't call it a triple square, but it's in the aisle with sockets). I knocked the bit out of the socket in order to use a box end wrench with it. That was the only way I could get those two bolts out.

    The downside is that you can't torque it to spec.

  4. #4
    Junior Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Dec 08 2016
    AZ Member #
    387776
    Location
    charlotte

    Update! Got it fixed last weekend. Thank you both for the info on the “triple square”. I totally would have stripped the bolts trying to use torx bits. I found a socket set at autozone.
    Luckily we have a lift and a bearing press in our garage so it wasn’t too bad of a job, I just was dumbfounded at the fact that the whole houssing assembly had to come off.
    Used a combination of the 2 post lift, a floor jack elevated on a motorcycle lift to get the housing assembly and control arms pushed all back together again, and then two ratchet straps that got sacrificed in order to be used as a spring compressor haha.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings jfo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2010
    AZ Member #
    67149
    Location
    Courtenay, BC, Canada

    Glad you got it sorted. I still have a new bearing in my parts box for the other rear side, but will take to a shop or my dealer. As I get older I'm more selective on choosing my DIY battles!
    2011 A4 Avant

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 09 2019
    AZ Member #
    526061
    Location
    Earth

    For all having issues with getting bolts loose, use a Bernzomatic TS8000KC Premium Torch Kit. made removing the hub bolts and those 4 smaller bolts very easy on my 8 year old 113k A4 quattro.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 09 2019
    AZ Member #
    526061
    Location
    Earth

    OMG. Please don't ever operate your car with bolts not meeting factory rated torque specs.

  8. #8
    Junior Member Two Rings Dan_7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 31 2020
    AZ Member #
    556854
    My Garage
    2013 Land Rover LR4
    Location
    Virginia Beach

    Just replaced the RR wheel bearing/hub in my 2016 S4. Got the parts from ECS tuning (hub & bearing) and the M12 Tripple Square off flea-bay. No need to make special tools or remove the coil spring. I disconnected 1 sway bar bolt (you'll need to replace so plan ahead if you go this route) & the foot-long bolt from the LCA that holds the spacer on (the part that's in the way of the bottom 2 bolts...you'll need to replace so plan ahead if you go this route). That bolt is also a tripple square (M16 I believe), but you don't need any special tools. Just take the nut off the opposite end and tap it through part way (carefully!). Once threads start to catch again, unscrew the rest of the way by hand or with pliers/channel locks/vice grips if needed. Once that's out and disconnected from the sway bar, it can be lowered and the spacer removed to gain access. I had a torch on hand but did not need it. NIFTY FACT: If you have a ridiculously heavy SUV (like an LR4) or truck, you can use it in conjunction with a jack & a block of wood as a bearing press!

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings jfo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2010
    AZ Member #
    67149
    Location
    Courtenay, BC, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan_7 View Post
    Just replaced the RR wheel bearing/hub in my 2016 S4. Got the parts from ECS tuning (hub & bearing) and the M12 Tripple Square off flea-bay. No need to make special tools or remove the coil spring. I disconnected 1 sway bar bolt (you'll need to replace so plan ahead if you go this route) & the foot-long bolt from the LCA that holds the spacer on (the part that's in the way of the bottom 2 bolts...you'll need to replace so plan ahead if you go this route). That bolt is also a tripple square (M16 I believe), but you don't need any special tools. Just take the nut off the opposite end and tap it through part way (carefully!). Once threads start to catch again, unscrew the rest of the way by hand or with pliers/channel locks/vice grips if needed. Once that's out and disconnected from the sway bar, it can be lowered and the spacer removed to gain access. I had a torch on hand but did not need it. NIFTY FACT: If you have a ridiculously heavy SUV (like an LR4) or truck, you can use it in conjunction with a jack & a block of wood as a bearing press!
    Can you describe how much room this gave you to access the 4 hub bolts? Can you get a breaker bar in there or is there room for an impact gun?
    2011 A4 Avant

  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 24 2011
    AZ Member #
    72897
    Location
    MTL

    It’s simple, all you need is a stubby triple square and a ratchet style box wrench that fits the back side of the stubby triple square.

    Make sure to loosen axle bolt with the wheel on the ground.

    2 bolts are easy acces, the 2 others need the tools mentioned above, it’s really not that hard to do with the car on jack stands and the wheel off. No need to remove suspension parts what so ever.

    The hub comes out with a little force.....put one of the bolts back in where you have the most access behind and smack it with a hammer to move the hub out. You can then pry it out from the front with the help of a chisel or other long and flat type tool by wedging it between the upright and the hub.

    If you really wanted to, you can buy this kit

    http://techprotools.ca/index.php?mai...oducts_id=1930

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 22 2019
    AZ Member #
    466794
    Location
    Clarksville, TN

    Quote Originally Posted by A.K. View Post
    It’s simple, all you need is a stubby triple square and a ratchet style box wrench that fits the back side of the stubby triple square.

    Make sure to loosen axle bolt with the wheel on the ground.

    2 bolts are easy acces, the 2 others need the tools mentioned above, it’s really not that hard to do with the car on jack stands and the wheel off. No need to remove suspension parts what so ever.

    The hub comes out with a little force.....put one of the bolts back in where you have the most access behind and smack it with a hammer to move the hub out. You can then pry it out from the front with the help of a chisel or other long and flat type tool by wedging it between the upright and the hub.

    If you really wanted to, you can buy this kit

    http://techprotools.ca/index.php?mai...oducts_id=1930
    Sorry for the semi necro bump but using this method were you able to torque the 4 bolts to spec?

    Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

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