Removing Top Coolant Hose

[tannercortes]

I noticed driving home today water temp went past 3/4.
I saw that the top coolant hose had a crack right where the hose meets the plastic connector.

I'm sitting here trying to figure out how to get this hose off. I was able to remove the top radiator connector but cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the bottom engine side connector off. I basically can't figure out how to get to the retaining clip with either a screwdriver or something else.

Can anyone tell me whether it's something I can access from the top, or from the bottom? Remove any other components to get to it?

Thanks in advance.

Tanner
Corona, So Cal

[slowSfaux]

You gotta get in there with a screwdriver or a pick, it's tough but it's possible. Pulling it off will be a challenge too if you haven't removed it in a while. Expect to bust a knuckle or two.

[JVD]

Remove clip. Pull real hard. Wear gloves.

[tannercortes]

You gotta get in there with a screwdriver or a pick, it's tough but it's possible. Pulling it off will be a challenge too if you haven't removed it in a while. Expect to bust a knuckle or two.

Thanks, this is from the top?

- - - Updated - - -

Remove clip. Pull real hard. Wear gloves.

Thanks

[CELison]

You can tap the plastic part of the hose from the front with something that can be used as a punch and a hammer to pop it off the rad. That's how I always did it. Saves my hands from getting smashed.

[Timtheguru]

You can tap the plastic part of the hose from the front with something that can be used as a punch and a hammer to pop it off the rad. That's how I always did it. Saves my hands from getting smashed.

Agreed, but that's not where the problem is.

I was able to remove the top radiator connector but cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the bottom engine side connector off. I basically can't figure out how to get to the retaining clip with either a screwdriver or something else.

[CELison]

That’s what I get for reading it fast.

[ElementR]

Try picking up a set of picks from Harbor Freight or auto parts store... the one with a 90 degree bend may be able to grab it.

[tannercortes]

That’s what I get for reading it fast.

Fast Car.Fast Reading:)

- - - Updated - - -

Try picking up a set of picks from Harbor Freight or auto parts store... the one with a 90 degree bend may be able to grab it.

Yeah, I think I'll stop by and buy a set.
Thanks

[tannercortes]

I was able to finally get the hose off. No scraped knuckles.

Since the hose was already damaged, I used a sharp blade and cut the hose in half.
This gave me a view of the retaining clip. I was able to use a 10" flat blade screw driver to pry the clip into open position, however it was not enough to slide the hose out yet.
So I used popped the entire clip off the connector using same screwdriver.

Remaining 1/2 of the hose came out easy.
Now hoping the new hose slides in easily.

[rdcyclist]

Now hoping the new hose slides in easily.

Lube o-ring inside new hose with silicone grease. Clean hard pipe on engine with Scotchbrite.

[JVD]

Lube o-ring inside new hose with silicone grease. Clean hard pipe on engine with Scotchbrite.

Good call!

[S4_NE]

Good call!

second that, and hope you don't have to change it again LOL

[tannercortes]

Sounds like a solid idea, I was going to use some spit, but ya, your idea much better!!😜

Lube o-ring inside new hose with silicone grease. Clean hard pipe on engine with Scotchbrite.

[zillarob]

You dont need to take the hose off. Just rip that plastic ring off and put a hose clamp on it. Not sure why they didnt just use the spring clips like everywhere else.
I dont know wtf is going on, never seen it before, but had 3 of them this summer. Global warming?

[slowSfaux]

Whoa rob's back! Welcome back zilla!

[ElementR]

You dont need to take the hose off. Just rip that plastic ring off and put a hose clamp on it. Not sure why they didnt just use the spring clips like everywhere else.
I dont know wtf is going on, never seen it before, but had 3 of them this summer. Global warming?

Installation...the manufacturing guys need ergonomically acceptable access to install them and quick connects win out consistently over constant tension or worm gear clamps all the time.

[CELison]

Whoa rob's back! Welcome back zilla!

He saved the day for me Friday night. Snapped a T-bolt clamp, nobody had one in stock, Rob had just 1 and he gave it to me . I called pep boys first.
" Do you guys have T-bolt Clamps in stock? T as in tiger"
"yeah we have them"
I get there, "Oh I thought you said Key bolt"
"wtf is a key bolt" - Me
" I don't know" - Pep Boys

[slowSfaux]

He saved the day for me Friday night. Snapped a T-bolt clamp, nobody had one in stock, Rob had just 1 and he gave it to me . I called pep boys first.
" Do you guys have T-bolt Clamps in stock? T as in tiger"
"yeah we have them"
I get there, "Oh I thought you said Key bolt"
"wtf is a key bolt" - Me
" I don't know" - Pep Boys

Wtf lmao!

[JVD]

Key as in Kiger.

[zillarob]

Installation...the manufacturing guys need ergonomically acceptable access to install them and quick connects win out consistently over constant tension or worm gear clamps all the time.

Its where the hose connects to the quick connect part that Im guessing he is talking about.
It looks like they mold some plastic ring to hold it on, instead of using the springy hose clamp thing like they do on the other end.

[ElementR]

That's what is called an overmold...common for hoses when incorporating plastic connectors. The clamp at the other end is the odd one here... normally, you'd do the overmold vs add a clamp...

[zillarob]

That overmold is what fails, that spring clamp doesnt.
Have you seen the heat shrink stuff they are using nowadays as a clamp? Maybe if I needed to get out of the desert, but Id still rather have real deal metal

[vavJETTAw36]

That overmold is what fails, that spring clamp doesnt.
Have you seen the heat shrink stuff they are using nowadays as a clamp? Maybe if I needed to get out of the desert, but Id still rather have real deal metal

They use that stuff at some penske fleet management garages. My buddy swears by it. So much so that he recommended I use it for boost hoses. Ive never seen or know how it works, but I am pretty sure it wouldnt work for boost.

on an unrelated note, its nice to see you come out of the woodwork Rob. Been a long time since ive seen you on.

[ElementR]

Weird - probably poor design or some unique interaction...overmolds in my experience/industry experience generally go very far and handle lots of abuse. They are generally considered more robust than clamped joints and rarely ever fail.

[zillarob]

They use that stuff at some penske fleet management garages. My buddy swears by it. So much so that he recommended I use it for boost hoses. Ive never seen or know how it works, but I am pretty sure it wouldnt work for boost.

on an unrelated note, its nice to see you come out of the woodwork Rob. Been a long time since ive seen you on.

I think Gates makes it. I know it comes on some of their new hoses.
Its like some really heavy duty heatshrink stuff.
I dont doubt it works under "normal" temps, its the higher temp areas where it is going to get soft again that make me nervous.
Never used it so not sure how well it actually works, just looks sketchy to me.

[zillarob]

Weird - probably poor design or some unique interaction...overmolds in my experience/industry experience generally go very far and handle lots of abuse. They are generally considered more robust than clamped joints and rarely ever fail.

Looks like shrinkage over time/heat to me.
Pulls down so tight that it just splits at what appears to be a parting line, or maybe they melt them together like they do with gas line so they can compress it during install.

[CELison]

We use overmolds for some instruments in the medical device industry. They stand up to tons of autoclave heat cycles. >250F, as well as the alkaline cleaners they use on the other side of the pond.