Swaybar mod with end links?

[pfar54]

Hey everyone,

So, I am close to ordering my first mod and I will be taking advice of money on this forum by going with a swaybar first. I will be taking advantage of Eurocode's summer deal, but I am unsure if I should also purchase the adjustable front end links. The sway bar says
it comes with end links in the description. Are there any advantages to the adjustable end links over the ones that come with the swaybar?

Thanks!

[OlyS6]

To my knowledge, Eurocode sells the sway bar separate from the end links (unless they have some sort of new bundle). Their adjustable end links are excellent, as they get rid of the rubber 'give' that is in the OEM links. Just make sure you get the rubber boots to put over each end to keep dirt and grime out of the joints. Adding the rear sway bar and end links is also super helpful.

[pfar54]

I’m guessing what I’m seeing is just the end link boots? See link below:

https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...a7-s7-rs7.html

[Patrick303]

I’m guessing what I’m seeing is just the end link boots? See link below:

https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...a7-s7-rs7.html

Those are the polyurethane bushings for the sway bar to mount to the chassis.

these are the end links:
https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...ategory_id=608
https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...ategory_id=608

And the rubber boots OlyS6 referred to:
https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...ategory_id=608

[Kevin1]

I did the EC sways and end links front and back. They changed the handling dramatically

[RSLRS71]

have a complete package for sale....

[excelongt]

I did the 034 rear sway bar and very happy with it. Made the c7 chassis feel so much smaller


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[VR2V8]

I had the front and rear Eurocode sway bars on my old B8 S4 and now on my current C7.5 S6. The sway bars are an excellant addition to handling.

The endlinks on the B8 S4 started clunking at two years. The S6 endlinks on the S6 started clunking at 1.5 years.

I now use the OEM links, less hassle, no clunks.

If you want to deal with fixing one or two end links every year, then the endlinks give a little tighter handling, but for me on a street car NEVER again.

Same here. Instead of rebuilding them after they failed, I went back to OEM and never gave it another thought.

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[pfar54]

I had the front and rear Eurocode sway bars on my old B8 S4 and now on my current C7.5 S6. The sway bars are an excellant addition to handling.

The endlinks on the B8 S4 started clunking at two years. The S6 endlinks on the S6 started clunking at 1.5 years.

I now use the OEM links, less hassle, no clunks.

If you want to deal with fixing one or two end links every year, then the endlinks give a little tighter handling, but for me on a street car NEVER again.

Same here. Instead of rebuilding them after they failed, I went back to OEM and never gave it another thought.

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Thanks for the heads up guys. My car has 20k miles. Do you think my existing end links would be fine to use with the sway bar?

[wwhan]

Thanks for the heads up guys. My car has 20k miles. Do you think my existing end links would be fine to use with the sway bar?

Most likely they are OK. If they seem loose or damaged, then I would replace them with new.

I would guess it would take about 5 years or 50k miles to degrade the OEM endlinks, like any plastic or rubber part on a vehicle.

[WhiteDiamond]

Thanks for the heads up guys. My car has 20k miles. Do you think my existing end links would be fine to use with the sway bar?

My review isn't too old on the forum. I put the Eurocodes on mine at 32K miles. Used stock end links as I run spherical bushings on a race suspension set up and tried them on a past street car project. It isn't a question of the Eurocode endlinks making noise, the question is how many miles before it happens. If you don't plan on lowering your 6, then use the OEM end links. The mod is worth it. That rear bar is a really fun install................

[pfar54]

Thanks for the info everyone! I have no intentions of lowering the car any further. I have the S-line package, so it is already lowered some.

I am thinking since I will be doing this to just replace the factory end links, so I don't have to do it in 30k miles. How do these look?

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...ink/705337_0_0

** BTW - Should I buy the rubber dust boots from Eurocode if I am not buying their end links?

[all_kobiwon]

Do not buy Eurocode end links. Mine failed and went back to the OEM ones after just 3k miles. Waste of money.

[WhiteDiamond]

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** BTW - Should I buy the rubber dust boots from Eurocode if I am not buying their end links?

Don't have an opinion on the part link, but my guess is your factory links are absolutely fine. Mine showed to be in great shape after 34K miles.
The boots Eurocode sells are to try and protect those spherical bushings. Your stock links do not need them.

[doc-haz]

Can someone explain what these mods do? Are we talking about mitigating roll? How about squat and dive? How do they affect ride comfort?

[turbonator S6]

I'm also considering the sway bars and would like to stay with the OEM end links. If I also decide to lower the car a modest amount (say 10mm) using VCDS, would I need to order the "Eurocode Fitment Kit C7/8R Swaybar - To allow the alignment of the endlinks with a lowered suspension" as shown on their web site?

[ericw.]

I did the 034 rear sway bar and very happy with it. Made the c7 chassis feel so much smaller


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You should return it. I started with 034 sway bars, hated the fitment because it's technically a SQ5 sway bar that "universally" fit the c7 platform.. I switched to eurocode and there's a noticeable improvement.

Never putting another 034 part on my car again after they called me to deliver what literally sounded like a poorly prepared essay on why the fitment is supposed to be bad.

Now those 035 guys are top notch tho. #drive035 always one up 034.

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[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Can someone explain what these mods do? Are we talking about mitigating roll? How about squat and dive? How do they affect ride comfort?

Changing sway (or anti-roll) bars is generally intended to minimize roll from side to side in cornering, which, holding all else constant can increase lateral grip. If you change bars one at a time, you can change the tendency for your car to understeer or oversteer; and, holding all else constant. Squat and dive are generally impacted by spring stiffness.

Plenty of seat time will let you decide (a) how your car handles at the limit and (b) how you want it to change, if at all. If you can articulate the change(s) you want, there are parts to get it done!!

Before you mess with the suspension, you may want to consider attending a HPDE day or two such that you really know what you want.

I came from BMW, which tended to understeer and my A6 with sport differential seems to understeer less and seems willing to rotate the rear more easily than i expected. For my street use, I don’t feel like I need changes at this point, but more time and miles - particularly if auto cross or track day - may prove otherwise.

Credit card and tools down until a suspension need is identified —- again, for my tastes. YMMV.



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[a4huey09]

have a complete package for sale....

PM Sent...

[doc-haz]

Changing sway (or anti-roll) bars is generally intended to minimize roll from side to side in cornering, which, holding all else constant can increase lateral grip. If you change bars one at a time, you can change the tendency for your car to understeer or oversteer; and, holding all else constant. Squat and dive are generally impacted by spring stiffness.

Plenty of seat time will let you decide (a) how your car handles at the limit and (b) how you want it to change, if at all. If you can articulate the change(s) you want, there are parts to get it done!!

Before you mess with the suspension, you may want to consider attending a HPDE day or two such that you really know what you want.

I came from BMW, which tended to understeer and my A6 with sport differential seems to understeer less and seems willing to rotate the rear more easily than i expected. For my street use, I don’t feel like I need changes at this point, but more time and miles - particularly if auto cross or track day - may prove otherwise.

Credit card and tools down until a suspension need is identified —- again, for my tastes. YMMV.



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Thanks for the explanation! I have been to a few HPDEs but only driven stock corvettes.

On the road I really hardly notice significant leans on the Audi but I personally haven’t cornered near the limit. The reason I ask about squat and dive is because to me they are very noticeable when you floor it. Dynamic mode helps mitigate this some but still. I will leave the suspension alone for now like you’re doing. Thanks again :-)

[pfar54]

I installed the sway bar today with stock links. I was only able to get to the front today. It took longer than I expected with having to use a combination of jacks and ramps. I can tell how much it handles already without doing anything high speed yet. Below are some pics.

[ericw.]

I installed the sway bar today with stock links. I was only able to get to the front today. It took longer than I expected with having to use a combination of jacks and ramps. I can tell how much it handles already without doing anything high speed yet. Below are some pics.

The 2x4 on the stand isn't going to hold the weight of your car. It will split.

The front was the easy one. I'm curious if you had it jacked up on only one side during the installation? The back is a little bit harder but have both wheels off the ground and it's not bad. Dropping the back exhaust hangers helps a lot. Watch out for the height sensors on each side if you have air ride.

For now be cautious in the corners with all that understeer you added.

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[pfar54]

The 2x4 on the stand isn't going to hold the weight of your car. It will split.

The front was the easy one. I'm curious if you had it jacked up on only one side during the installation? The back is a little bit harder but have both wheels off the ground and it's not bad. Dropping the back exhaust hangers helps a lot. Watch out for the height sensors on each side if you have air ride.

For now be cautious in the corners with all that understeer you added.

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No, I kept alternating the side I had it jacked up from. Then to torque everything down I put it on ramps, so the weight of the car was on the wheels.

The jacking points for this car sucks. There is no middle jacking point, so there is no way to easily put stands under the car in a secure location, unless I am missing something.

[ericw.]

No, I kept alternating the side I had it jacked up from. Then to torque everything down I put it on ramps, so the weight of the car was on the wheels.

The jacking points for this car sucks. There is no middle jacking point, so there is no way to easily put stands under the car in a secure location, unless I am missing something.

It's super easy to do with the car up on ramps in the front. Lift both sides in the rear. I believe the difficulties you had is due to the suspension being under so much pressure. As a result you're adding pressure to the sway bar at the same time. It's purpose is to restrict the body roll that you're adding by jacking up 1 side.

[WhiteDiamond]

The rear bar is a complete PITA!!!! I know some post it isn't that bad, but it is terrible. Make sure you get that car in the air and supported correctly!!!! Not liking your current system of supporting the car and the rear bar will require you to be fully under there a lot longer than the front bar.

[pfar54]

I had the front and rear Eurocode sway bars on my old B8 S4 and now on my current C7.5 S6. The sway bars are an excellant addition to handling.

The endlinks on the B8 S4 started clunking at two years. The S6 endlinks on the S6 started clunking at 1.5 years.

I now use the OEM links, less hassle, no clunks.

If you want to deal with fixing one or two end links every year, then the endlinks give a little tighter handling, but for me on a street car NEVER again.

It's super easy to do with the car up on ramps in the front. Lift both sides in the rear. I believe the difficulties you had is due to the suspension being under so much pressure. As a result you're adding pressure to the sway bar at the same time. It's purpose is to restrict the body roll that you're adding by jacking up 1 side.

I disagree, at least in my case. My ramps were only six inches high. That is why it took me so long and why I had to use jack/stands. I really didn't have any issues with fitment or getting the bar on. It was mostly just a learning curve and being really careful. I also had to lift my driver side tire to get the endlink in line with the sway bar (this side was jacked up). I did so with a motorcycle jack and then after getting it tight the motorcycle jack wouldn't release. That burned up about an hour of time.

The rear bar is a complete PITA!!!! I know some post it isn't that bad, but it is terrible. Make sure you get that car in the air and supported correctly!!!! Not liking your current system of supporting the car and the rear bar will require you to be fully under there a lot longer than the front bar.

I didn't like it either...trust me. I just didn't see any other points to secure it.

I honestly think I might just pay a local shop to do the back, unfortunately. There is no way I want to do it with the small ramps I have with having to lower the exhaust. I typically attempt to do my own work on cars, but I am still sore from the other day and don't feel like wasting an entire weekend day.

[excelongt]

You should return it. I started with 034 sway bars, hated the fitment because it's technically a SQ5 sway bar that "universally" fit the c7 platform.. I switched to eurocode and there's a noticeable improvement.

Never putting another 034 part on my car again after they called me to deliver what literally sounded like a poorly prepared essay on why the fitment is supposed to be bad.

Now those 035 guys are top notch tho. #drive035 always one up 034.

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any feeling of "betterness" is just a placebo effect from feeling what you want to feel after changing products"

The reason the rear sway bar is a hard install is because of the overall rear subframe design which is shared between the sq5 and c7 platform. Not because they are using a sq5 bar. That doesn't even make sense


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[ericw.]

any feeling of "betterness" is just a placebo effect from feeling what you want to feel after changing products"

The reason the rear sway bar is a hard install is because of the overall rear subframe design which is shared between the sq5 and c7 platform. Not because they are using a sq5 bar. That doesn't even make sense


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Sorry but that's wrong. This is why an SQ5 sway bar doesn't fit an A/S/RS 7
The welded tabs are in the wrong place for the 7's!



That gives you (minimally) uneven cornering since the bar can move in one direction but not another and is always stressed/under load/pressure applied to passenger (right) side tab.

In addition, it's not a placebo of any sort since the Eurocode kit comes with front and rear (vs 034 with only a rear from an SQ5), Eurocode is a honeycomb center, and most importantly it fits appropriately.

You can go back to your 034 sales desk now.. unless you want to pull out the script they read to me over the phone when I complained of this issue. Literally called me and it was painfully obvious they were reading off some excuse and stumbling over the words like a school kid struggling to read his paragraph.

[burlgoat53]

I know this is an old thread but need some advice..

Should I run eurocode f/r sway bars with oem end links and boots on my 2012 a7 as a "set it and forget it " upgrade ??

Do you have to get another alignment after installation??
Based on the research this seems like the best setup for longevity


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[bpd]

No you do not need to do alignment and reuse your links. I do like the sway bar set and just reused my links.

[jsilas]

Ecode sways F/R with stock end links here. Great improvement in cornering confidence, and no clunks.

[15 Phantom S6]

Any folks here lowered with H&R module or Cete module with Eurocode sway bars and OEM endlinks in the rear?

Wondering if the Eurocode fitment kit is needed when using OEM endlinks on a lowered vehicle?

[Barritia]

Yes use the fitment kit. I snapped a bolt in the arm and it was a pig to drill out.

[OlyS6]

Yep, use the fitment kit for 'any' type of lowering, whether via VAGCOM or a module. I also found this out the hard way...

[EriCal]

If you make the change yourself, invest in a set of tri-square sockets. Trust me!

[burlgoat53]

Quick questions c7 guys... which adjustment holes are you using for the sway bars? Looking at the install instructions now but can't figure out which one is right for the street for the install


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[jsilas]

Quick questions c7 guys... which adjustment holes are you using for the sway bars? Looking at the install instructions now but can't figure out which one is right for the street for the install


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My shop recommended the stiffer setting for the rear bar, and the softer setting for the front. This is for EuroCode bars. I went with their recommendation and the results have been quite favorable.

[mpk1996]

Bringing this one back up

I have H&R sways front and rear on stock end links. Was looking at doing the eurocode front and rear end links along with some of the trans/diff inserts. For those that have done it, was it worth it? Noise? How long have they lasted? The sways were great, just don’t know if I can get more out of it

[THCarpenter]

Bringing this one back up

I have H&R sways front and rear on stock end links. Was looking at doing the eurocode front and rear end links along with some of the trans/diff inserts. For those that have done it, was it worth it? Noise? How long have they lasted? The sways were great, just don’t know if I can get more out of it

Funny you should ask

https://imgur.com/a/IoFtwLz

I installed the Eurocode Adjustable Front and Rear sways with ECS Adjustable Front Endlinks and the new 034 Adjustable Rear Endlinks

I posted this on the what did you do to your C7 thread with write up (ish)

[ArkAudiA7]

I had the Eurocode front and rear sway bars installed along with new OEM end links last year. Totally changed the handling of the car without any noticeable (to me) decrease in ride comfort and no noise from the suspension. The shop installed the trans and diff inserts at the same time. To be fair, I had new shocks/struts installed as well. I have zero experience with Eurocode or end links so can't comment on those.