Bought a 2016 Audi A6 3.0T - How can I mod it?

[pfar54]

Hello all!

This is my first real post on this forum. I just purchased a 2016 Audi A6 3.0T Prestige with the S-Line package. I love the car so far, however the car enthusiast in me wants to modify it to make it my own. I have been browsing online the last few nights to find some good places to buy aftermarket parts and I am not seeing many sites for this.

I wanted to ask you all what some common power, suspension and visuals mods are for this car.

For power mods, I am looking for best bang for the buck. I have noticed a lot of people do a CAI mod, which this may bring what 5whp or so? I also have seen that the APR tune and pulley upgrade are popular, but what else is there besides this and exhaust upgrades? I would ideally like to be around 400-450 whp without spending too much or putting the car out of warranty.

What are some option for power, suspension (how it benefits) and visual upgrades?

Thanks

[q5 dave]

I would ideally like to be around 400-450 whp without spending too much or putting the car out of warranty.

S6 mod.

[Audibot]

Welcome, and congrats on joining the forum and C7 group. Throw some pics up! Color? Options besides Prestige and S-Line?

There are tons of upgrades and mods for the 3.0T, and many are applicable for the C7 as well as the B8 S4/S5. You will probably get a lot more ideas from those folks. Power-wise, there are a variety of tunes out there in addition to your aforementioned pulley upgrades. Some even go as far as E85 conversions as well. Best bang for your buck will be start with a tune and work your way from there. Note that any engine mods you do outside of maybe the CAI will likely result in a TD1 by the dealership unless you revert back to stock before going.

Visually, there is a thread (go search for it) regarding fitting dynamic/sweeping turn signals as well as folks fitting the euro sweeping headlights/taillights. If you don't have black optics, you could fit those as well. Wheels are another option, and tint of course. If you want to preserve the look, I'd recommend getting it detailed with a ceramic coating and/or a clear film applied.

Suspension-wise, you have your usual suspects of KW, Bilstein, etc, and a few have done bags. Upgrading your sway bars will increase your handling as well.

If you want increase your power, you may want to look into upgrading brakes. There have been some S6 brakes floating around as well.

Myself ('16 TDI), I've got 15k miles until my factory warranty runs out, after which I'll be installing a DP and maybe replacing the turbo as well. I'll be picking up a 3rd party extended warranty then too.

- - - Updated - - -

S6 mod.

Or this lol

[bakes]

S6 mod.

Classic! If you wanted 400-450hp you should have bought an S6 especially if you want the warranty to remain intact.

[dbd723]

#1: Eurocode sway bars: https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...a7-s7-rs7.html

#2: michelin MP4s summer tires. (This takes care of the handling issues and prepares it for more power)

#3: stage 1 apr tune (just a flash, cheap it will wake the 3.0T up nicely, I have it in my s5). You should gain somewhere in the neighborhood of 100hp with this tune.

#4 APR TCU tune (not 100% necessary, but does give better drivability and mpg, higher redline to take advantage of the tune power up top, sportier sport mode, etc).

If its still not fast enough for you, then do the stage 2 dual pulley swap and add the APR intercooler, but that is more expensive for less overall hp gain than a simple flash. You will then be about at a stock s6 level of power and performance (but with the immediacy of a supercharger you might beat it in a drag race).

If still not fast enough, get an S6 and tune it to stage 2. i love the tuned 4.0t better than my tuned 3.0t (both are quite fun though especially when tuned). If still not fast enough get rs7 and tune it to stage 1 or 2. If still not fast enough get R8 and have UGR TT it to 1000+hp. If still not fast enough and you arent in jail yet, get UGR TT to 2000+ hp full race. Thats my plan anyway :) on the tuned s6 step right now...

[dbd723]

Oh yes, and you definitely need upgraded brakes the A series brakes are not adequate for a car of that size and future power (unless you are not an aggressive driver). If you can get S6 brakes on that is ideal but you have to run factory 19s at least to fit them.

[Audibot]

Oh yes, and you definitely need upgraded brakes the A series brakes are not adequate for a car of that size and future power (unless you are not an aggressive driver). If you can get S6 brakes on that is ideal but you have to run factory 19s at least to fit them.

S-Line package gives 19's. At least it did with my '16 per the window sticker (superseded w/ BO)

[Durwin@TAG]

Congrats on the new ride! As many have mentioned, a tune will always be #1 for instant power increase right off the bat. What are you looking for out of your car suspension wise? Do you plan on taking the car out on the twistys? Is it purely aesthetic?

Wheels/tires are the one thing that can completely change the look of your car without having to do much to the rest of the car.

Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any questions!

[yeuchau]

for the power you looking at, you probably need to run race mode/tune on single pulley.
Or just go dual pulley (but chances of voiding your warranty if you do that).
I would just do single pulley with EPL if warranty is your concern (i.e. always flash back and drive a good 100 mile or so before bring it in for service).

[i8snitches]

Hello all!

This is my first real post on this forum. I just purchased a 2016 Audi A6 3.0T Prestige with the S-Line package. I love the car so far, however the car enthusiast in me wants to modify it to make it my own. I have been browsing online the last few nights to find some good places to buy aftermarket parts and I am not seeing many sites for this.

I wanted to ask you all what some common power, suspension and visuals mods are for this car.

For power mods, I am looking for best bang for the buck. I have noticed a lot of people do a CAI mod, which this may bring what 5whp or so? I also have seen that the APR tune and pulley upgrade are popular, but what else is there besides this and exhaust upgrades? I would ideally like to be around 400-450 whp without spending too much or putting the car out of warranty.

What are some option for power, suspension (how it benefits) and visual upgrades?

Thanks

No disrespect but the short version you bought the wrong car if you want 400-450wp without voiding warranty.

There are various tuners available APR, GIAC, EPL but to get the numbers you're asking you need atleast Stage 1 which will run you $1400 (APR)... Stage 1 voids warranty if car is scanned by dealer without 'flash to stock'. Stage 1 is great for a safe "nothing else required", put a smile on your face tune.

Anything higher and you're looking at mechanical and tune changes i.e. upgrade pulley, intake, cps etc...

[DetRebel]

#1: Eurocode sway bars: https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...a7-s7-rs7.html

#2: michelin MP4s summer tires. (This takes care of the handling issues and prepares it for more power)

#3: stage 1 apr tune (just a flash, cheap it will wake the 3.0T up nicely, I have it in my s5). You should gain somewhere in the neighborhood of 100hp with this tune.

#4 APR TCU tune (not 100% necessary, but does give better drivability and mpg, higher redline to take advantage of the tune power up top, sportier sport mode, etc).

If its still not fast enough for you, then do the stage 2 dual pulley swap and add the APR intercooler, but that is more expensive for less overall hp gain than a simple flash. You will then be about at a stock s6 level of power and performance (but with the immediacy of a supercharger you might beat it in a drag race).

If still not fast enough, get an S6 and tune it to stage 2. i love the tuned 4.0t better than my tuned 3.0t (both are quite fun though especially when tuned). If still not fast enough get rs7 and tune it to stage 1 or 2. If still not fast enough get R8 and have UGR TT it to 1000+hp. If still not fast enough and you arent in jail yet, get UGR TT to 2000+ hp full race. Thats my plan anyway :) on the tuned s6 step right now...

If you’re not in Jail yet...

Congrats on the new ride OP


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[A6sport]

Why not drive it, get to know it, understand the car first. You might love it the way it is. If not, spend money on the things YOU find lacking. Mods are subjective to say the least.

Don't know your financial situation, but you can drop some major coin on mods for Audi cars, particularly the C7.

[kevinbodman930]

I too just recently bought the same car but a 2015 and the first mod i am doing is the brakes.I ended up buying a set of stop-techs with semi ceramic pads.I am not sure i made the right choice but anything is better then whats on the car now.Haha.Btw i am loving the car so far.

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[pfar54]

Thanks everyone for the kind welcome! I'm glad I joined this forum. I will try to summarized all responses within this post.

I included a couple of images of the car at the end of this post per request. They are just the pictures I took when picking the car up from the dealer.

The car is black and has 21,000 miles. It is extremely clean and has just about every feature available. (not sure if I am typing in the correct feature terms...just going off memory)
-cold weather
-warm weather
-leather with ventilated seats
-driver/lane assist
-19" wheels
-S-line package
-Black optics
-Bose sound
-AWD
-Moonroof
-LED headlights and internal lights
-open and close trunk
-speed display on windshield
Can't think of anything else right now.

To address the S6 mod. I initially thought of purchasing an S6, but I disagree with those saying I should have just purchased this car. For me, my Audi purchase is to have a quick car that looks great, is comfortable and that I can drive all year around ( I live in NE OH and we have bad winters). If it wasn't for where I live I would have purchased a Corvette. If this vehicle was purchased to be a car that I made very fast, I would have purchased the RS7. I am not new to modding cars or working on them, I have had several cars that I have modded, one of those which I built being able to safely handle 900+ rwhp.

An S6 did not make sense for me as they are an extra $15,000 - $20,000 more for essentially the same car with more power. Going from 333 bhp to 400 - 450 whp to me doesn't sound like that big of a task, nor is it an insane amount of power. Would it be nice to have the S6 and not have to worry about modding too much? Yes, but knowing how I am, I probably would then want 550 whp. It is just who I am, so by going the A6 route, I am doing a service to myself to limit spending.

Welcome, and congrats on joining the forum and C7 group. Throw some pics up! Color? Options besides Prestige and S-Line?

There are tons of upgrades and mods for the 3.0T, and many are applicable for the C7 as well as the B8 S4/S5. You will probably get a lot more ideas from those folks. Power-wise, there are a variety of tunes out there in addition to your aforementioned pulley upgrades. Some even go as far as E85 conversions as well. Best bang for your buck will be start with a tune and work your way from there. Note that any engine mods you do outside of maybe the CAI will likely result in a TD1 by the dealership unless you revert back to stock before going.

Visually, there is a thread (go search for it) regarding fitting dynamic/sweeping turn signals as well as folks fitting the euro sweeping headlights/taillights. If you don't have black optics, you could fit those as well. Wheels are another option, and tint of course. If you want to preserve the look, I'd recommend getting it detailed with a ceramic coating and/or a clear film applied.

Suspension-wise, you have your usual suspects of KW, Bilstein, etc, and a few have done bags. Upgrading your sway bars will increase your handling as well.

If you want increase your power, you may want to look into upgrading brakes. There have been some S6 brakes floating around as well.

Myself ('16 TDI), I've got 15k miles until my factory warranty runs out, after which I'll be installing a DP and maybe replacing the turbo as well. I'll be picking up a 3rd party extended warranty then too.

- - - Updated - - -



Or this lol

Thanks for the very helpful post! Are you referring to S6 brakes floating around on this forum? So with my 19" wheels, the S6 rotors, calipers and pads would essentially just be a bolt-on, right?

#1: Eurocode sway bars: https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...a7-s7-rs7.html

#2: michelin MP4s summer tires. (This takes care of the handling issues and prepares it for more power)

#3: stage 1 apr tune (just a flash, cheap it will wake the 3.0T up nicely, I have it in my s5). You should gain somewhere in the neighborhood of 100hp with this tune.

#4 APR TCU tune (not 100% necessary, but does give better drivability and mpg, higher redline to take advantage of the tune power up top, sportier sport mode, etc).

If its still not fast enough for you, then do the stage 2 dual pulley swap and add the APR intercooler, but that is more expensive for less overall hp gain than a simple flash. You will then be about at a stock s6 level of power and performance (but with the immediacy of a supercharger you might beat it in a drag race).

If still not fast enough, get an S6 and tune it to stage 2. i love the tuned 4.0t better than my tuned 3.0t (both are quite fun though especially when tuned). If still not fast enough get rs7 and tune it to stage 1 or 2. If still not fast enough get R8 and have UGR TT it to 1000+hp. If still not fast enough and you arent in jail yet, get UGR TT to 2000+ hp full race. Thats my plan anyway :) on the tuned s6 step right now...

Sounds like you may be close to the "if you aren't in jail yet" step. Good luck on your progress and thanks for the helpful post!

Regarding the APR stage 1 tune, I think I might go with this first, unless the stage 2 tune doesn't require the pulley/belt upgrade. I will eventually do this, but don't want to break warranty yet.

I do have a question regarding your #4 point. What is the TCU tune? What exactly is the difference in the tune from points #3 and #4. I see this tune on ECS' site. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-apr-part...730tstg1chpkt/

Which one is this? Also, does anyone have any idea why I would need to go to ECS for them to install the tune? I'm not sure why I can't just buy it and hook it up myself. However, it isn't that big of a deal because I live 30 minutes from them.

S-Line package gives 19's. At least it did with my '16 per the window sticker (superseded w/ BO)

Yes, mine also has the 19" wheels.

Congrats on the new ride! As many have mentioned, a tune will always be #1 for instant power increase right off the bat. What are you looking for out of your car suspension wise? Do you plan on taking the car out on the twistys? Is it purely aesthetic?

Wheels/tires are the one thing that can completely change the look of your car without having to do much to the rest of the car.

Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any questions!

Thanks! I just want the car to handle well. It doesn't have to be anything crazy. I also want the car to feel good during normal driving circumstances.

No disrespect but the short version you bought the wrong car if you want 400-450wp without voiding warranty.

There are various tuners available APR, GIAC, EPL but to get the numbers you're asking you need atleast Stage 1 which will run you $1400 (APR)... Stage 1 voids warranty if car is scanned by dealer without 'flash to stock'. Stage 1 is great for a safe "nothing else required", put a smile on your face tune.

Anything higher and you're looking at mechanical and tune changes i.e. upgrade pulley, intake, cps etc...

Thanks for the response. For flash to stock, are there saved tunes to where I could put my tune back on after taking it to the dealer? I had a tune before that was on a flip switch that I could change between tunes. Is this the same?

Why not drive it, get to know it, understand the car first. You might love it the way it is. If not spend money on the things YOU find lacking. Mods are subjective to say the least.

Don't know your financial situation, but you can drop some major coin on mods for Audi cars, particularly the C7.

Yes, they definitely are subjective. Just trying to see what options are out there from the community. I probably won't do anything for a little while, but I know eventually I will and I like planning ahead, hence the post.

One thing that I really like about the S6's that I would ideally like to do to my car is to replace my stock wood paneling with the black paneling from the S6's







[IMG][/IMG]

[dbd723]

Lol yes I am getting close, the 1st gen v10 r8 will probably be the next car I buy probably in a year or two, and I will definitely be sending it to UGR for their stage 1 TT (as well as a few other fun performance and appearance mods :)

Any stage tune will break the drivetrain warranty if they scan deep enough, even if you flash back to stock. But the drivetrains are pretty rock solid in these audis most people it seems dont have issues except certain years/models and they are mostly known issues (like 2013 s6 turbo failures), and you still maintain your warranty on any components not directly impacted by the tune. Apr has to be flashed at apr dealers still I think, dont know if that has changed. If you want to flash at home you might look at EPL tunes which let you do that. Ive never tried them but others seem to have had some luck with it if you look on the forums

TCU is transmission control unit, which is responsible for selecting gears in auto mode, shift points, etc. The apr website describes what it does but most people that have it seem to like it better than stock (and is also required to get to advertised hp figures I believe.) ECU upgrade is engine control unit and what everyone is talking about when they say "stage 1 tune" etc, changes the tune to allow more hp and torque.

All C7 apr upgrades can be found here and lots of info on audizine forums as well.
https://www.goapr.com/products/index.php?v=A6&vg=4

Love the black, that is a super nice looking a6.
Look at HRE flowforms for your summer rims. Hre ff04 in gloss black with some tinting to your windows... that would look sick.

If you do nothing else though, get the eurocode sway bars.

"Sounds like you may be close to the "if you aren't in jail yet" step. Good luck on your progress and thanks for the helpful post!

Regarding the APR stage 1 tune, I think I might go with this first, unless the stage 2 tune doesn't require the pulley/belt upgrade. I will eventually do this, but don't want to break warranty yet.

I do have a question regarding your #4 point. What is the TCU tune? What exactly is the difference in the tune from points #3 and #4. I see this tune on ECS' site.*https://www.ecstuning.com/b-apr-part...730tstg1chpkt/*

Which one is this? Also, does anyone have any idea why I would need to go to ECS for them to install the tune? I'm not sure why I can't just buy it and hook it up myself. However, it isn't that big of a deal because I live 30 minutes from them."

[pfar54]

How much power difference would there be between stage 1 and stage 2?

[Dippy]

If yours is a CREC engine then a stage 2 with a drive ratio of about 3.0 is as much as it can take before you risk clutch failure.

[pfar54]

How would I find out if I have a CREC engine?

[dbd723]

How much power difference would there be between stage 1 and stage 2?

Peak power is higher with stage 2, but you gain hp and torque throughout the power band with stage 2. Stage one is more top end hp at the higher revs. Most people say there us a big butt dyno difference and like stage 2. You can compare dyno charts on apr website if you want to know exact numbers.

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[i8snitches]

EPL allows you to flash from home so you can go back to stock at anytime.

However once you Stage 2 for vehicles over 2016 you cannot flashback if you completed the supercharger upgrade since your changing the pulley and the newer engines won't bleed off the extra boost.

[GID]

Considering facelift models has a bolt on pulley, how hard do you think it would be to change it back for dealer visits?

EPL allows you to flash from home so you can go back to stock at anytime.

However once you Stage 2 for vehicles over 2016 you cannot flashback if you completed the supercharger upgrade since your changing the pulley and the newer engines won't bleed off the extra boost.

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[pfar54]

I watched this video on upgrading to the stage II kit. Since I have a bolt on pulley, do I even need to take the front bumper off? Is it as simple as taking the belt off and then unbolting the pulley? If so, I think I am definitely doing stage II.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaPnqkyo0yQ

[sikessr]

I just added a larger Fluidampr crank pulley and GIAC stage 2 tune. Big difference. I picked GIAC because the big names all seemed to be very similar, only GIAC and EPL can be done at home, GIAC was cheaper than EPL, and EPL keeps your stock tune on their server. Maybe not likely, but if they ever disappear, then you are stuck with whatever tune you have on your car at that time and can’t switch back to stock or stage 1/2/2+.

For supercharger and/or crank pulley, you need to put the bumper in service position, which is a bit of a pain, and I wouldn’t want to do that several times going back and forth to the dealer. You could get a stage 1, flash back to stock as needed, then go stage 2 after your warranty is up.


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[pfar54]

Welcome, and congrats on joining the forum and C7 group. Throw some pics up! Color? Options besides Prestige and S-Line?

There are tons of upgrades and mods for the 3.0T, and many are applicable for the C7 as well as the B8 S4/S5. You will probably get a lot more ideas from those folks. Power-wise, there are a variety of tunes out there in addition to your aforementioned pulley upgrades. Some even go as far as E85 conversions as well. Best bang for your buck will be start with a tune and work your way from there. Note that any engine mods you do outside of maybe the CAI will likely result in a TD1 by the dealership unless you revert back to stock before going.

Visually, there is a thread (go search for it) regarding fitting dynamic/sweeping turn signals as well as folks fitting the euro sweeping headlights/taillights. If you don't have black optics, you could fit those as well. Wheels are another option, and tint of course. If you want to preserve the look, I'd recommend getting it detailed with a ceramic coating and/or a clear film applied.

Suspension-wise, you have your usual suspects of KW, Bilstein, etc, and a few have done bags. Upgrading your sway bars will increase your handling as well.

If you want increase your power, you may want to look into upgrading brakes. There have been some S6 brakes floating around as well.

Myself ('16 TDI), I've got 15k miles until my factory warranty runs out, after which I'll be installing a DP and maybe replacing the turbo as well. I'll be picking up a 3rd party extended warranty then too.

- - - Updated - - -



Or this lol

#1: Eurocode sway bars: https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...a7-s7-rs7.html

#2: michelin MP4s summer tires. (This takes care of the handling issues and prepares it for more power)

#3: stage 1 apr tune (just a flash, cheap it will wake the 3.0T up nicely, I have it in my s5). You should gain somewhere in the neighborhood of 100hp with this tune.

#4 APR TCU tune (not 100% necessary, but does give better drivability and mpg, higher redline to take advantage of the tune power up top, sportier sport mode, etc).

If its still not fast enough for you, then do the stage 2 dual pulley swap and add the APR intercooler, but that is more expensive for less overall hp gain than a simple flash. You will then be about at a stock s6 level of power and performance (but with the immediacy of a supercharger you might beat it in a drag race).

If still not fast enough, get an S6 and tune it to stage 2. i love the tuned 4.0t better than my tuned 3.0t (both are quite fun though especially when tuned). If still not fast enough get rs7 and tune it to stage 1 or 2. If still not fast enough get R8 and have UGR TT it to 1000+hp. If still not fast enough and you arent in jail yet, get UGR TT to 2000+ hp full race. Thats my plan anyway :) on the tuned s6 step right now...

S-Line package gives 19's. At least it did with my '16 per the window sticker (superseded w/ BO)

Congrats on the new ride! As many have mentioned, a tune will always be #1 for instant power increase right off the bat. What are you looking for out of your car suspension wise? Do you plan on taking the car out on the twistys? Is it purely aesthetic?

Wheels/tires are the one thing that can completely change the look of your car without having to do much to the rest of the car.

Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any questions!

No disrespect but the short version you bought the wrong car if you want 400-450wp without voiding warranty.

There are various tuners available APR, GIAC, EPL but to get the numbers you're asking you need atleast Stage 1 which will run you $1400 (APR)... Stage 1 voids warranty if car is scanned by dealer without 'flash to stock'. Stage 1 is great for a safe "nothing else required", put a smile on your face tune.

Anything higher and you're looking at mechanical and tune changes i.e. upgrade pulley, intake, cps etc...

Why not drive it, get to know it, understand the car first. You might love it the way it is. If not, spend money on the things YOU find lacking. Mods are subjective to say the least.

Don't know your financial situation, but you can drop some major coin on mods for Audi cars, particularly the C7.

I just added a larger Fluidampr crank pulley and GIAC stage 2 tune. Big difference. I picked GIAC because the big names all seemed to be very similar, only GIAC and EPL can be done at home, GIAC was cheaper than EPL, and EPL keeps your stock tune on their server. Maybe not likely, but if they ever disappear, then you are stuck with whatever tune you have on your car at that time and can’t switch back to stock or stage 1/2/2+.

For supercharger and/or crank pulley, you need to put the bumper in service position, which is a bit of a pain, and I wouldn’t want to do that several times going back and forth to the dealer. You could get a stage 1, flash back to stock as needed, then go stage 2 after your warranty is up.


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Thanks for the info. I never really thought of other companies than APR. I will check out GIAC.

I am curious why I need to put the bumper in service position though. My pulley is bolted on, opposed to what the video shows. It seems like they pull the bumper out just to be able to put their pulley remover tool in. I don't think I would need the extra space to remove. What year car do you have?

[sikessr]

Thanks for the info. I never really thought of other companies than APR. I will check out GIAC.

I am curious why I need to put the bumper in service position though. My pulley is bolted on, opposed to what the video shows. It seems like they pull the bumper out just to be able to put their pulley remover tool in. I don't think I would need the extra space to remove. What year car do you have?

My car is a 2012. You might be able to do it without putting the bumper in service position. I did the crank pulley and needed the extra space. My supercharger belt was a real bear to get off and the new one on, VERY tight. I ended up having to unbolt the supercharger, lift the back of it up a bit to tilt the supercharger pulley down a bit to slip the belt over it.

If you change the crank pulley, make sure you index the stock one before pulling it off. Even though the holes look symmetrical, they are not, and the pulley only fits on one way. I ended up buying 8 screws to use to mount the crank pulley properly, remove the screws, then put the crank bolts on; however, I ended up getting it on right through trial and error before the screws arrived a week or so later.

With GIAC, you get a handheld device that you could even keep in your glovebox if you want to change the tune at any time. You can change the mapping back to stock without reflashing the tune if you drop it off to a valet or have a young driver drive the car. Then, just as easily, map it back to stage 2 or whatever stage.

IMG_6079.JPG


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[GID]

Thanks for the info. I never really thought of other companies than APR. I will check out GIAC.

I am curious why I need to put the bumper in service position though. My pulley is bolted on, opposed to what the video shows. It seems like they pull the bumper out just to be able to put their pulley remover tool in. I don't think I would need the extra space to remove. What year car do you have?

I'm pretty sure he's unaware that the facelift models have a different pulley setup. I've been waiting for the answer to our question for a while now. Anyone with crec motor swap the blower pulley?

[Dippy]

I can only speak for my B8.5 S5, but I would have thought that the C7/C7.5 A6/A7 is even easier because its bigger. Although it is tight, it is definitely possible to change the crank pulley without needing service position.

Are you guys aware that the OE crank pulley is a weak point? Go over to the B8 forum and you'll find enough failure reports to be concerned. This itself is reason enough to choose to change it to an oversize one for a stage 2. The only issue is whether or not to change it for a single piece lightweight pulley or a more expensive damped solution. That has to be a personal decision because there is simply insufficient evidence that damping is definitely needed, and of course there can be advantages with a lightweight pulley.

So if you change the crank pulley then there is no need to touch the supercharger pulley. And this includes DP/dual-pulley. Not needed since you can get crank pulleys big enough to take the supercharger up to its max revs. But as I stated before, it seems that the CREC engine is limited by the supercharger clutch. I have a 189mm crank pulley (drive ratio 2.99) and the old "N" supercharger clutch. Over a year now and no sign of problems (clutch slip will be flagged by the ECU). However I know of someone with a similar setup on an S4 had slip and needed the clutch replaced. And another friend whose car was used for APR DP & UC development needed it replaced twice. He now has APR's 57mm bolt-on pulley and stock crank pulley (drive ratio 2.84) and a revised version clutch which does not slip (and in case you wonder - the first replacement clutch which also slipped was the revised version).

[i8snitches]

It's all down to your comfort level. Changing the drive pulley is relatively straight-forward for the mechanically inclined. Here's a goo video of the drive pulley change process: https://youtu.be/aaPnqkyo0yQ

[pfar54]

It's all down to your comfort level. Changing the drive pulley is relatively straight-forward for the mechanically inclined. Here's a goo video of the drive pulley change process: https://youtu.be/aaPnqkyo0yQ

We are asking if all of that is needed with our cars. With being 2016+, we have the bolt on s/c pulley.

[i8snitches]

Understood... missed that reference.. in that case depends on what tune you go with... APR / EPL should account for the additional boost and calibrate accordingly... Stage 1 is a safe mod with good numbers.. Stage 2 (Single or Dual Pulley) just gives better throttle response and torque... Stage II in my opinion changes the car completely compared to Stage 1.

A good thread on differences is: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...vs-APR-Stage-2

[GID]

I can only speak for my B8.5 S5, but I would have thought that the C7/C7.5 A6/A7 is even easier because its bigger. Although it is tight, it is definitely possible to change the crank pulley without needing service position.

Are you guys aware that the OE crank pulley is a weak point? Go over to the B8 forum and you'll find enough failure reports to be concerned. This itself is reason enough to choose to change it to an oversize one for a stage 2. The only issue is whether or not to change it for a single piece lightweight pulley or a more expensive damped solution. That has to be a personal decision because there is simply insufficient evidence that damping is definitely needed, and of course there can be advantages with a lightweight pulley.

So if you change the crank pulley then there is no need to touch the supercharger pulley. And this includes DP/dual-pulley. Not needed since you can get crank pulleys big enough to take the supercharger up to its max revs. But as I stated before, it seems that the CREC engine is limited by the supercharger clutch. I have a 189mm crank pulley (drive ratio 2.99) and the old "N" supercharger clutch. Over a year now and no sign of problems (clutch slip will be flagged by the ECU). However I know of someone with a similar setup on an S4 had slip and needed the clutch replaced. And another friend whose car was used for APR DP & UC development needed it replaced twice. He now has APR's 57mm bolt-on pulley and stock crank pulley (drive ratio 2.84) and a revised version clutch which does not slip (and in case you wonder - the first replacement clutch which also slipped was the revised version).

Thanks @Dippy

What tune are you running? Also, are you changing the pulley and belt back to stock before dealer visits?

[BOPOH]

Congrats on new to you A6!!! I'm getting ready to sell mine, so if you want my injen intake or just any help/hints/installs let me know. Im not that far from you and have all audi needed tools. Also have OBDeleven for mods or codes

[Dippy]

Thanks @Dippy

What tune are you running? Also, are you changing the pulley and belt back to stock before dealer visits?

My tuner is UK-based MRC, not available elsewhere unless you drive to them - they have had customers from Germany do that.

I'm afraid that I must initially provide a flippant answer your second question:
Why would I want to put my car back to stock before visiting a dealer - are you suggesting that I might want to commit fraud by pretending that it has been stock so that I can make a warranty claim?

But seriously since my Audi warranty has expired I have no reason to go to a dealer, risking the safety of my car, and so I use a trusted independent tech instead. I had my car tuned as soon as the SIMOS 16 ECU (used on the CREC) had been cracked, and that was about 20 months into my 36 month warranty. Just before expiry one of my headlamp washer jets was replaced under warranty (I did not hide my tune), but I paid for the other one which failed just after the warranty expired. However generally I don't worry about warranty. Just like I did with my previous B5 S4 I bought my S5 towards the end of the production run so that I could avoid all those warranty issues which affect a new model. However the bottom line is the phrase which I learnt from reading posts on Audizine: "You gotta pay to play". I endorse that and accept that if I own a modified car then it is me who has to pay for mod-related repairs.

[BG SQ5]

OP- congrats on the new ride! Check out the B8 S4 forum for 3.0T engine modification information overload.

In short- start with a stage 1 tune from APR, EPL, GIAC or Unitronic.

#4 APR TCU tune (not 100% necessary, but does give better drivability and mpg, higher redline to take advantage of the tune power up top, sportier sport mode, etc).

APR doesn’t have a tcu tune for C7 3.0T A6’s in the US (all ZF 8HPs). The only potential option at this time is E-tuners, and the one guy on here that tried it with his RS7 had issues. Not to mention- E-tuners explicitly stated that they know nothing about the AMAX counter.

[bajan01]

Don't know your financial situation, but you can drop some major coin on mods for Audi cars, particularly the C7.

I’ve put close to $10k into my 2016 SQ5, about 80% of that is engine performance mods. I haven’t even done wheels or suspension yet (other than rear swaybar). Enjoy the car and build it up slowly...that’s where the real fun is...for me anyway. It can get interesting having a 400+ whp, factory looking SUV on the road.🤫

[pfar54]

Welcome, and congrats on joining the forum and C7 group. Throw some pics up! Color? Options besides Prestige and S-Line?

There are tons of upgrades and mods for the 3.0T, and many are applicable for the C7 as well as the B8 S4/S5. You will probably get a lot more ideas from those folks. Power-wise, there are a variety of tunes out there in addition to your aforementioned pulley upgrades. Some even go as far as E85 conversions as well. Best bang for your buck will be start with a tune and work your way from there. Note that any engine mods you do outside of maybe the CAI will likely result in a TD1 by the dealership unless you revert back to stock before going.

Visually, there is a thread (go search for it) regarding fitting dynamic/sweeping turn signals as well as folks fitting the euro sweeping headlights/taillights. If you don't have black optics, you could fit those as well. Wheels are another option, and tint of course. If you want to preserve the look, I'd recommend getting it detailed with a ceramic coating and/or a clear film applied.

Suspension-wise, you have your usual suspects of KW, Bilstein, etc, and a few have done bags. Upgrading your sway bars will increase your handling as well.

If you want increase your power, you may want to look into upgrading brakes. There have been some S6 brakes floating around as well.

Myself ('16 TDI), I've got 15k miles until my factory warranty runs out, after which I'll be installing a DP and maybe replacing the turbo as well. I'll be picking up a 3rd party extended warranty then too.

- - - Updated - - -



Or this lol

#1: Eurocode sway bars: https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0...a7-s7-rs7.html

#2: michelin MP4s summer tires. (This takes care of the handling issues and prepares it for more power)

#3: stage 1 apr tune (just a flash, cheap it will wake the 3.0T up nicely, I have it in my s5). You should gain somewhere in the neighborhood of 100hp with this tune.

#4 APR TCU tune (not 100% necessary, but does give better drivability and mpg, higher redline to take advantage of the tune power up top, sportier sport mode, etc).

If its still not fast enough for you, then do the stage 2 dual pulley swap and add the APR intercooler, but that is more expensive for less overall hp gain than a simple flash. You will then be about at a stock s6 level of power and performance (but with the immediacy of a supercharger you might beat it in a drag race).

If still not fast enough, get an S6 and tune it to stage 2. i love the tuned 4.0t better than my tuned 3.0t (both are quite fun though especially when tuned). If still not fast enough get rs7 and tune it to stage 1 or 2. If still not fast enough get R8 and have UGR TT it to 1000+hp. If still not fast enough and you arent in jail yet, get UGR TT to 2000+ hp full race. Thats my plan anyway :) on the tuned s6 step right now...

S-Line package gives 19's. At least it did with my '16 per the window sticker (superseded w/ BO)

Congrats on the new ride! As many have mentioned, a tune will always be #1 for instant power increase right off the bat. What are you looking for out of your car suspension wise? Do you plan on taking the car out on the twistys? Is it purely aesthetic?

Wheels/tires are the one thing that can completely change the look of your car without having to do much to the rest of the car.

Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any questions!

No disrespect but the short version you bought the wrong car if you want 400-450wp without voiding warranty.

There are various tuners available APR, GIAC, EPL but to get the numbers you're asking you need atleast Stage 1 which will run you $1400 (APR)... Stage 1 voids warranty if car is scanned by dealer without 'flash to stock'. Stage 1 is great for a safe "nothing else required", put a smile on your face tune.

Anything higher and you're looking at mechanical and tune changes i.e. upgrade pulley, intake, cps etc...

Why not drive it, get to know it, understand the car first. You might love it the way it is. If not, spend money on the things YOU find lacking. Mods are subjective to say the least.

Don't know your financial situation, but you can drop some major coin on mods for Audi cars, particularly the C7.

OP- congrats on the new ride! Check out the B8 S4 forum for 3.0T engine modification information overload.

In short- start with a stage 1 tune from APR, EPL, GIAC or Unitronic.



APR doesn’t have a tcu tune for C7 3.0T A6’s in the US (all ZF 8HPs). The only potential option at this time is E-tuners, and the one guy on here that tried it with his RS7 had issues. Not to mention- E-tuners explicitly stated that they know nothing about the AMAX counter.

Thanks! I will check out that part of the forum. I've noticed there aren't too many engine mod posts in this section, so hopefully I can find some more info there.

Could someone clarify this...

Do these cars rely on a pinpoint tune for any sort of engine mod? I saw the APR ultracharger and was going to purchase it until I saw it required the Stage II tune. From the looks of it, the mod is simply a throttle body/plenum with some spark plugs. Not sure why a tune is needed for that.

[StrmTpr]

Same as OP, just purchased a CPO '16 A6 3.0T Prestige with Black Optics pkg. Loving it so far, but thinking about upgrades after warranty runs out. Here's a pic...http://www.tylercbeaty.com/wp-conten...7/IMG_0430.jpg

[Hofahome]

S6 mod.

Coming from decently modified S4 with the 3.0T and now an S6, this is quite true. Don't get me wrong, the 3.0T is a decent motor, but don't expect 400-450WHP WITHOUT much modification...unless you like nitrous I guess. I made 396whp on Dual pulley, E85 (needed upgraded HPFP and LPFP), and cooling upgrades. I think some guys are starting to get around 430-450whp, but this is also requiring porting the stock blower, headers, +/- meth. And those guys are DEEP down the rabbit hole. I you want better info on the 3.0T, hop on over to the B8 S4 forum.

To put it bluntly, my modified S4 was about as fast as my stock S6.

I don't mean to take anything away from you or your purchase; in fact it looks beautiful and is well optioned - Honestly congrats. Just..temper your expectations a bit or start coming to terms modifying it past a stg I tune.

[Dippy]

Thanks! I will check out that part of the forum. I've noticed there aren't too many engine mod posts in this section, so hopefully I can find some more info there.

Could someone clarify this...

Do these cars rely on a pinpoint tune for any sort of engine mod? I saw the APR ultracharger and was going to purchase it until I saw it required the Stage II tune. From the looks of it, the mod is simply a throttle body/plenum with some spark plugs. Not sure why a tune is needed for that.

The APR UC uses a throttle which has a motor & position sensor which are different enough from stock (including a different pin-out such that a cable adapter is supplied) that the values in the ECU need to be changed. I understand that the difference is significant enough that if you fit an UC without the remap, the car will be in limp mode at best, and not start at worst.

BTW please note #17 - if you have a CREC then forget the UC

[pfar54]

What does CREC stand for? Are the 2016+ engines have them?

Thanks for the UC insight.