C6 A6 3.0T Big Tune Up

[NickLim]

Hello,

I bought my car earlier this year and now I am ready to do a major tune up.

I want to do an ECU tune, stage 1, 2, etc

I also want to do PVC replacement (burning 1qt a week)

Thermostat?

Maybe I will do a roc euro intake at the same time.

What should I do basically to get this car into tip top shape? What stage tune, etc I just want to go into a shop and negotiate a good price on everything.

Please give your recommendations for tunes etc - I have APR and GIAC tuners within 30 minutes of me

I don't think I have a tune because I can't go over 125mph, but I can use the break and the gas at the same time. I also emailed APr and they said that I didn't have the tune. I think if I do all of the work at once it may be the best thing for price and time.

Should I maybe do seals at the same time?

Thank you!

Hopefully other members with 3.0t c6 can use this thread as it will contain all the major tune ups

[juniorcruzer]

I'm apr stage 2, and it really changes the car totally. I would absolutely recommend going Stage II, but probably do it with and under drive crank pulley, being those seem to be a common failure point.

PCV I would say is a good start given your other thread.

Here is a page that covers many of the common issues with the 3.0T motor.

https://www.shopdap.com/blog/post/co...-engines1.html

[95blkmax]

Hello,

I bought my car earlier this year and now I am ready to do a major tune up.

I want to do an ECU tune, stage 1, 2, etc

I also want to do PVC replacement (burning 1qt a week)

Thermostat?

Maybe I will do a roc euro intake at the same time.

What should I do basically to get this car into tip top shape? What stage tune, etc I just want to go into a shop and negotiate a good price on everything.

Please give your recommendations for tunes etc - I have APR and GIAC tuners within 30 minutes of me

I don't think I have a tune because I can't go over 125mph, but I can use the break and the gas at the same time. I also emailed APr and they said that I didn't have the tune. I think if I do all of the work at once it may be the best thing for price and time.

Should I maybe do seals at the same time?

Thank you!

Hopefully other members with 3.0t c6 can use this thread as it will contain all the major tune ups

I can't offer any insight into tunes.

If you do not know the car's previous maintenance history, go ahead and do it all so you have a clean slate!
Spark plugs, air filter, oil and oil filter. Depending on the mileage look at doing the drivetrain fluids as well. Being that it's a 3.0T, definitely go ahead and replace the thermostat. Also, give the harmonic balancer a good visual inspection checking for cracks in the rubber. This would be an indicator of pending separation and that's a headache you'd want to avoid.

As for seals/ gaskets, if it ain't broke don't fix it lol. You can do a visual inspection around your engine bay before going to the shop and tell them what seals/ gaskets you want replaced (alternatively, have them find leaks if any, and show them to you before you approve the replacement). Unless of course you just want the peace of mind of knowing they've been replaced and you don't have to worry about them leaking for years to come.

The PCV system is actually a big project as it involves lifting the intake manifold AND supercharger. If you do this, you REALLY should replace the oil filter housing gasket (since you'd have to remove the IM and SC again to get to this). The PCV is not a valve per say as in other cars. We have an oil separator system. You have a medusa of plastic lines (two that go to the valve covers, and one that goes to the back of the IM behind the TB), and the oil separator box that sits in the valley under the IM + SC + fuel lines. Also, while the IM is off, you can have them inspect the back of the intake valves to see if it would be worth having them cleaned out. Given that you mention having to top off a qt a week, they may be gummed up with carbon so expect that bill.

Hope that helps!

[cal3thousand]

I'm of the school to do everything while you're in there, especially if you're going to tune the thing.

After knowing what I know now about these motors, I would pull the whole thing and basically rebuild it. If the cylinder walls are good and the rings are solid, you can leave the short block alone.

But I would remove the head and separate it and reseal it. Replace the valve stem seals while in there.
Also would do a timing kit and replace all the components: guides, chains, tensioners and reseal it.
Replace water pump, thermostat, PCV
Do the carbon cleaning AS WELL as the Secondary air injection ports (requires a high pressure cleaning system or manually intensive drill/brush cleaning)
A new rear main seal if you pull the whole motor (if doing chains you'll pull motor, if doing just upper guides and tensioners, motor can stay in.

Might as well replace or rebuild the vacuum pump and also do a refresh on the supercharger (change oil, pull intercoolers and clean off any oil residue, reseal it)

Of course, new plugs. Might as well replace the coils if tuning.

[christianb5s4]

Adding to what everyone said, it's not cheap but doing everything while you're in there is critical. I always operate under the assumption that the PO didn't do anything unless there's irrefutable proof something was done. This is what I did when I bought the car and wanted to do every possible weak point and maintenance item.

Supercharger belt
Intake filter
Serpentine belt
Cabin Filter
PCV Vent Tube
Fuel injector repair kit x6
Lower intake manifold gasket x6
Upper intake manifold gasket x6
Coolant sender o-ring
Crankshaft pulley
PCV Hose
Crankshaft pulley bolts x8
Crankcase PRV
Purge Valve
OEM Water Pump
Cleaned carbon deposits
Thermostat
Breather Tube

[marketdemon]

Don't do all that work and then forget about swapping out the stock exhaust for something that will allow all that power to get OUT. I think a lot of guys start with a CAI and exhaust then go to the more extreme motor mods. Anyway, sounds like a great project for you. I am going GIAC when I do this because I really like having the ability to tune the car with their control module. 3 different modes for different driving conditions seems pretty cool to me. Several GIAC guys out there, so they obviously know more. ALSO several threads on which is best, you may want to read through those as there is LOTS of great info in them. Have fun and good luck with everything. Keep us posted on your progress. LASTLY, you may want to add new coolant crossover pipe to that long list. This was a big failure for me. Its an easy switch with all the other things you're doing, but a total PITA if that's the only thing you're doing.

[95blkmax]

... LASTLY, you may want to add new coolant crossover pipe to that long list. This was a big failure for me. Its an easy switch with all the other things you're doing, but a total PITA if that's the only thing you're doing.

+1 !!! Completely agree! How could I forget about this one lol.

[christianb5s4]

I spoke to several shops that work on 3.0Ts regularly, including the one I bring my car to. I asked about replacing the crossover pipe but they've never seen one fail. I wonder how frequently it has problems for people.

[95blkmax]

It may be an age-related deal. Mine was slowly seeping on one of the ends so I bought the 2 ring gaskets for it to replace them. When I attempted to remove the pipe it crumbled like bottom-of-the-bag cornflakes LOL. OK not as bad but I clearly needed to replace it as the plastic was brittle.

It's just a good idea to do it while you already all this other work going on in there and it's easily accessible.

[Robokam]

I have a 2010 3.0T and mine failed at around 146k.

[juniorcruzer]

Mine failed and started to leak in the ~150k range.

Jon

[NickLim]

Awesome! I will mention that to them for the bid - thank you guys!

This thread is becoming very insightful. I think there is starting to be enough high mileage 3.0ts to have consistent data about what are problem components here

[NickLim]

So will an exhaust really be restrictive for my car? I would like to retain the stock intake and stock exhaust with stage 2

[NickLim]

$1200 for PCV and Thermo Stat

$2400 For Stage 2

Is this fair pricing? That's the quote I got

[christianb5s4]

I paid about that for labor on my service, may paid a bit more but that also included a lot of additional items too.

[NickLim]

I paid about that for labor on my service, may paid a bit more but that also included a lot of additional items too.

Okay I think that all of that part list you mentioned earlier kind of overwhelmed my local shop.

So for PCV, Thermostat, Stage 2, what next few items do you think are most important/critical

[ichi d]

might as well do your plugs and coils as well.

[NickLim]

might as well do your plugs and coils as well.

I'd rather just do those when they go - I want to spend as little money as possible right now on the repair but I want to maximize any potential savings that might be saved by doing operations in conjuction. Those look like right at the top of the engine and may even be a fun project for myself

[christianb5s4]

Okay I think that all of that part list you mentioned earlier kind of overwhelmed my local shop.

So for PCV, Thermostat, Stage 2, what next few items do you think are most important/critical

I also did plugs, new OEM coil packs, and a new intake air filter myself outside of the services the shop did. I'd add in replacing the fuel filter is a very important item to add to your list as it's likely it's never been replaced or is likely due for replacement. This is especially important when tuned because you do not want to end up with fueling issues.

[NickLim]

Scheduling appointment soon for oil seperator replacement and upgrade, thermostat replacement and upgrade, stage 2 upgrade, as well as oil change, fuel filter, and oil filter, and air filter


The rest of the things I don't think are too critical for right now

[ApostolSauce]

i know crossover front coolant pipe was mentioned but i’d recommend the coolant pipe that runs along the valley that goes into the back the thermostat hole. They break right at the front connection.


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