Low Oil Pressure Warning - Car Won't Start

[james12lucy]

Odd and quick question.

My race car finally started and ran. Then threw a low oil pressure warning and was ticking (new turbo manifold gasket needed to expand). Immediately shut it down and put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it. Started back up, pressures are well within spec, ticking went away when gasket expanded, but the oil pressure light was still on. I shut the car off to work on some other issues that arose (leaking rear coolant flange).

I tried starting the car last night and it'll crank but won't start. The OEM oil pressure sensor is hooked up, but I think it's still reading low oil pressure (yes there is enough oil in it). I'm wondering if the low oil pressure warning will cause the car not to start as a safety precaution? If so, I have a spare pressure sensor to swap in and will be trying to source a M10 to 1/8" NPT adaptor to run the OEM sensor and mechanical gauge.

Thoughts? I'm about a week from a 16 hour endurance race and am scratching my head as to why it won't start after having run for about 5 minutes without an issue. I'll hook up the VCDS tonight, but because I've removed nearly every safety and comfort system in the car, it'll have a list about 10 miles long.

Again, will a low oil pressure warning cause the car to not start?

Thanks.

[Low and Behold]

Definitely swap out that oil pressure sensor first. I did mine last week after my light came on randomly. Turns out oil was seeping through the sensor and into the electrical connector, causing it to freak out.

I don't know definitively if a low pressure warning would not allow the car to start. I doubt it, but i could be wrong.

if it still won't start after the sensor is replaced, I would start looking into fueling/battery/etc.

[aluthman]

The car will run with a low oil pressure reading. Plenty have destroyed engines this way. Scan and see what you get code wise and start troubleshooting.

[james12lucy]

The car will run with a low oil pressure reading. Plenty have destroyed engines this way. Scan and see what you get code wise and start troubleshooting.

Thanks Adam, definitely no low pressure. Not even worried about the sensor. Likely something stupid like a crank position sensor.

I know it’s not fuel related, as I can hear both
485s running in the fuel cell. I’ll text the HPFP bleeder to ensure there is pressure in the rail.

I’ll scan tonight and start digging in. Prepare to see the longest VCDS error list in history.


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[Theiceman]

Heat usually kills crank sensors. Fine cold and when car warms up it dies. good troubleshooting tip is hit it with a spray bottle after car dies , if it starts again you know its the cps.

[james12lucy]

Heat usually kills crank sensors. Fine cold and when car warms up it dies. good troubleshooting tip is hit it with a spray bottle after car dies , if it starts again you know its the cps.

Thanks for the tip, Mr. Kilmer.


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[james12lucy]

Here’s what I have. The two things that pop up are the intermittent camshaft timing adjustment and ECU implausible signal.

Thursday,21,June,2018,20:42:56:27028
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 8.1 x64
VCDS Version: 18.2.1.2 (x64)
Data version: 20180518 DS287.1
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAUDF68E56A000997 License Plate: CHUMP 151
Mileage: 316780km-196837mi Repair Order:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
67 69 75 76 77

VIN: WAUDF68E56A000997 Mileage: 316780km-196837miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels:. 06F-907-115-AXX.clb
Part No SW: 8E0 910 115 B HW: 8E0 907 115 C
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0130
Revision: --H02--- Serial number:
Coding: 0104010A180F0120
Shop #: WSC 93008 999 83881
VCID: 204418B2F3AA774407-8074

8 Faults Found:
009216 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit
P2400 - 004 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 316542 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 204 /min
Load: 100.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 23.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.192 V

005425 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment
P1531 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 316781 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 220 /min
Load: 100.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 23.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.049 V

000579 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
P0243 - 004 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 316780 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 220 /min
Load: 100.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 23.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
Voltage: 10.795 V

000566 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)
P0236 - 004 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 316780 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 21.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V

005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0°C
Temperature: -40.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 0.000 V

049489 - No Communications with Airbag Control Module
U0151 - 008 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 316780 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 21.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V

049412 - No Communication with Cruise Control Module
U0104 - 008 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 316780 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 21.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V

049508 - No Communications with HVAC Control Module (J301)
U0164 - 008 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 316780 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 21.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V

Readiness: 0000 0101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-910-517.clb
Part No SW: 8E0 910 517 C HW: 8E0 614 517 BB
Component: ESP8 quattro H04 0180
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0004526
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 275603AE9684807C46-8072

7 Faults Found:
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 28
Reset counter: 35
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x00C0
Hex Value: 0x4202
Hex Value: 0x00FF
Hex Value: 0xFFA2
Hex Value: 0x00FF

00493 - ESP-Sensor Unit (G419)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 55
Reset counter: 40
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x0000
Hex Value: 0x5002
Hex Value: 0x00FF
Hex Value: 0xFF68
Hex Value: 0x06FF

00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 34
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x0600
Hex Value: 0x5302
Hex Value: 0x00FF
Hex Value: 0xFFBA
Hex Value: 0x00FF

18265 - Load Signal
P1857 - 000 - Error Message from ECU - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 34
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x0000
Hex Value: 0x4202
Hex Value: 0x00FF
Hex Value: 0xFFB0
Hex Value: 0x00FF

00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 40
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x0000
Hex Value: 0x0200
Hex Value: 0x00FF
Hex Value: 0xFF84
Hex Value: 0x00FF

01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 14
Reset counter: 40
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x0000
Hex Value: 0x4200
Hex Value: 0x00FF
Hex Value: 0xFF95
Hex Value: 0x00FF

01314 - Engine Control Module
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 10
Reset counter: 40
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Hex Value: 0x0000
Hex Value: 0x0700
Hex Value: 0x00FF
Hex Value: 0xFF7D
Hex Value: 0x00FF


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8EC.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 920 931 E HW: 8E0 920 931 E
Component: KOMBI+WFS 4 H12 0040
Revision: 0040 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0023361
Shop #: WSC 93203 999 11920
VCID: 2A50FA9A8696BD1459-50E6

12 Faults Found:
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)
010 - Open or Short to Plus
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17)
010 - Open or Short to Plus
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
004 - No Signal/Communication
00466 - Control Module for Steering Column Electronics (J527)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01304 - Radio
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8EC.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 920 931 E HW: 8E0 920 931 E
Component: KOMBI+WFS 4 H12 0040
Revision: 0040 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0023361
Shop #: WSC 93203 999 11920
VCID: 2A50FA9A8696BD1459-50E6

12 Faults Found:
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)
010 - Open or Short to Plus
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17)
010 - Open or Short to Plus
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
004 - No Signal/Communication
00466 - Control Module for Steering Column Electronics (J527)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01304 - Radio
004 - No Signal/Communication

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 07:12)--------------------------

Let me know what you think.


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[Theiceman]

hmmm that cam sensor timing one is a little suspicious. I don't know the history of this engine , but when cam sensor indicates timing variation or no signal, it is either bad , or you have belt/ chain timing issues.

hopefully not this .

[james12lucy]

hmmm that cam sensor timing one is a little suspicious. I don't know the history of this engine , but when cam sensor indicates timing variation or no signal, it is either bad , or you have belt/ chain timing issues.

hopefully not this .

Freshly built engine from ForceFed Engineering (literally only broken in on the dyno).

I’m thinking the cam sensor might need replacing, as the one in it was likely the original. I’ll likely pull the sensor from my daily to test.

There really shouldn’t be belt or chain issues, as they’re new as well. Unless low oil pressure caused the adjuster to slack, and lose timing. But since it is intermittent, I’m thinking thats unlikely.

Thanks for following up though. More food for thought. Damned race cars...


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[Theiceman]

Oh yeah freshly built engine timing should not be an issue. Hopefully just a cam sensor.


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[Theiceman]

Something that may or may not be related. On my old obd 1 audi 90 i had a bad cam sensor. Once started the car would run, albeit in a default mode. But if bad it would not start at all ( it was intermittent )
Because its a racecar with so much stripped out makes weeding through the codes challenging.


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[james12lucy]

Something that may or may not be related. On my old obd 1 audi 90 i had a bad cam sensor. Once started the car would run, albeit in a default mode. But if bad it would not start at all ( it was intermittent )
Because its a racecar with so much stripped out makes weeding through the codes challenging.


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This is exactly what I’m thinking. And yes, pulling nearly everything has its downsides. Luckily, there weren’t more codes, so I think I’m good.

I’ll likely pull the cam sensor from my daily and give it a go (as I know it works). I have a spare head with a spare sensor that was working when pulled, so I might end up using it.


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[ahotboy15]

any power rpm wise when u put in gear w low oil pressure?

[ahotboy15]

r u gonna drop oil pan to take look at internal damage?

[canadianA4B7]

any power rpm wise when u put in gear w low oil pressure?

1. James does not eat paint chips.

2. He also is aware that a low oil pressure light means that romping on the gas peddle is a bad idea.

3. How would a car that does not start have any sort of power output? The title reads car won’t start

[Theiceman]

r u gonna drop oil pan to take look at internal damage?

any power rpm wise when u put in gear w low oil pressure?

Did “ Dumbass College” not teach you how to read ?


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[james12lucy]

any power rpm wise when u put in gear w low oil pressure?

Please leave this thread now. If you can’t read posts, you’re not welcome here.

Since you didn’t read it, you didn’t read that I put a mechanical oil gauge on it, and found that everything is within spec. It did run, and everything was safe.

And let’s face it, this is probably too advanced for you anyways.


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[james12lucy]

So, I no longer have loyal pressure issues at all. It has become more of a fueling and wiring issue or timing issue, I think.

I made redneck port injection, and it ran. Essentially, I allowed the intake manifold to draw fuel through a boost porch, from a bottle filled with gasoline. It ran poorly, but ran.

Here are the codes.

P0106
P0010
P0243
P2400
P0106

I changed the camshaft position sensors and crankshaft position sensor. Then I tested absolutely every wire and sensor combo for continuity.

It looks like it could maybe be timed incorrectly, causing the injectors not to fire.

Anyone have any insight? I’ve got exactly 6 day’s until it needs to be on a trailer and at tech inspection for the season. I also need to shake it down before then. 11th hour type stuff here.




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[Theiceman]

Well if you suspect its not timed correctly valve cover has to come off. But i thought it was running ? Line up the timing marks on the front and check cam lobes

I dint even check tdc from down below IMG_6998.JPG

Did my buddies tt last weekend


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[james12lucy]

It ran, then died. Had it running with rudimentary port injection. It simply won’t fire on its own. Getting a little frustrated, and likely will have to miss the upcoming race weekend.


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[Theiceman]

ah that sucks ... so now you are thinking fuel pump ?

[james12lucy]

Nope, not the pump(s). I have fuel flowing to the HPFP (and I swapped units twice to ensure that’s not the issue). Tested by using the Schrader valve. There is line pressure in the feed and return lines. Both LPFPs are firing and moving a lot of fuel.

I’m thinking the injectors aren’t pulsing for some reason. I’ve heard of issues between the cam position sensor and crank position sensor causing a no spark issue, but nothing for a no fuel issue.

I’m at an impasse now and it’s bothering me.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Dude, look at all your codes. They’re all electrical faults, especially all the communication errors. Clear them all and see what comes back. Make sure your battery is fully charged and maybe touch the battery terminals together for a half hour to do a purge/ECU reset.

I’d start by making sure all your grounds are GTG.

[james12lucy]

Dude, look at all your codes. They’re all electrical faults, especially all the communication errors. Clear them all and see what comes back. Make sure your battery is fully charged and maybe touch the battery terminals together for a half hour to do a purge/ECU reset.

I’d start by making sure all your grounds are GTG.

Thanks for the heads up. Battery is completely new.

Likely a great idea to purge the codes with the terminals. The reasons they’re all communication errors is because I’ve completely gutted and stripped the car for race duty. It ran last season, before swapping a built 2.1L and going with a GTX2867R.

Grounds are definitely a great place to start. I even went so far as manually grounding with a set of battery cables and grounding the engine to frame and negative battery terminal.

I’m also starting to think there might be an issue with the N275 which would cause timing errors.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Thanks for the heads up. Battery is completely new.

Likely a great idea to purge the codes with the terminals. The reasons they’re all communication errors is because I’ve completely gutted and stripped the car for race duty. It ran last season, before swapping a built 2.1L and going with a GTX2867R.

Grounds are definitely a great place to start. I even went so far as manually grounding with a set of battery cables and grounding the engine to frame and negative battery terminal.

I’m also starting to think there might be an issue with the N275 which would cause timing errors.




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You’ve got multiple fault codes for things in the engine bay alone. While it is possible that they all took a dump at the same time, it’s not likely. This has to be wiring, ECU or Can Bus related, right?

[james12lucy]

You’ve got multiple fault codes for things in the engine bay alone. While it is possible that they all took a dump at the same time, it’s not likely. This has to be wiring, ECU or Can Bus related, right?

I’m thinking wiring or CANBUS. Both ECUs will start and run my daily without codes. Any way to check relays?

Also, it runs with port injection. I devised a Redneck port injection system to test if it’ll run with fuel being added outside of direct injection, it does.


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[EvolutionArmory]

The mods you’ve done are a little outside of my pay grade. All I know is that from your codes, I’d be looking at electrical problems.

Grounds, relays and such. Any water in the car?

[james12lucy]

The mods you’ve done are a little outside of my pay grade. All I know is that from your codes, I’d be looking at electrical problems.

Grounds, relays and such. Any water in the car?

Thanks for your help. The issue is testing relays. More than happy to go one by one. Hell, I tested nearly every wire from ECU to connector for the injectors, cam and crank sensors, HPFP, and MAP.

Only water this car has seen is in the coolant system. It did have a leak at the rear coolant flange which I have since fixed. Come to think of it, that’s about the same time it died.


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[EvolutionArmory]

I’m sure someone can come up with the resistance for the usual relays so you can test them. I wish I still had ELSA login. VW really cracked down on people using other people’s login info so my buddy won’t let me use his anymore 😞

[EvolutionArmory]

And there’s an engine ground right on the bracket near the coolant flange/air pump 😀

[james12lucy]

And there’s an engine ground right on the bracket near the coolant flange.

You’re right. Shit, I’m not sure that was properly connected when putting everything back together.


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[Theiceman]

Thanks for your help. The issue is testing relays. More than happy to go one by one. Hell, I tested nearly every wire from ECU to connector for the injectors, cam and crank sensors, HPFP, and MAP.

Only water this car has seen is in the coolant system. It did have a leak at the rear coolant flange which I have since fixed. Come to think of it, that’s about the same time it died.


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Did you happen to remove the ground off the timing cover and forget to put it back ?


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[Theiceman]

Looks like we both thought if the same thing lol. I should have read right through the thread


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[canadianA4B7]

You’re right. Shit, I’m not sure that was properly connected when putting everything back together.


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That’s the one I was referring to mate. Thought you did re check it? How about power at the starter? Did you ground to the engine mount on passengers side too? You built the robust bracket didn’t the oem have a ground on it?

[ahotboy15]

jump start?

[EvolutionArmory]

jump start?

Dude, unless you paid that guy for his fucking turbo, GTFO.

[funkypterodacty]

And there’s an engine ground right on the bracket near the coolant flange/air pump 😀

Speak of, do you guys remember where exactly this is supposed to be reconnected to ? I want to say the bottom leg out of the 3 on the vacuum pump but can't recall exactly.

[EvolutionArmory]

Speak of, do you guys remember where exactly this is supposed to be reconnected to ? I want to say the bottom leg out of the 3 on the vacuum pump but can't recall exactly.

The bracket is probably keyed. I think it can only go in one place? I don’t remember.

[Theiceman]

The bracket is probably keyed. I think it can only go in one place? I don’t remember.

Yes it is keyed . It is the lower of the three vacuum pump bolts. It is a special head bolt, not the same as the others. The ground bracket is a bit of a pig to get in the right spot.


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[ahotboy15]

What's it your business. You should be a collections agent not a mechanic