Repair light warning buzzer?

[maxiz1]

Hello Guys,
My 2001 cluster buzzer stopped working that it will no longer give out the chime for any kind of warning. I'm more concerned about the light warning when leaving the car. I'm reluctant to repair the buzzer on the cluster out of fear of damaging the cluster circuit.

Anybody had figured out how to install an external buzzer that links to the light, ignition and door switch?

[Turbo_B5]

Its part of the cluster. you could solder wires to the leads and put a replacement from a parts cluster or different car with external buzzer and locate that somewhere.

[walky_talky20]

That would work, but I'm sure he'd like to avoid opening the cluster if he can.

To that end, a separate circuit should be pretty easy and cheap to implement for regaining this warning function. You just need a 12-volt Relay, a 12-volt Buzzer of your choice, and a 1 amp blocking diode (1N4007 or similar). Here's a quick diagram:



Luckily, the ground signal from the door switch is readily available behind the driver's knee bolster because the footwell light is there. You just need to tap the Brown/Yellow wire there and then get power from the parking lamp fuse, also conveniently right there near the knee bolster. Pull power from the load side of the fuse and you won't even need to add your own fuse (but a 5A in-line fuse would be recommended, especially if you are using thin hookup wire).

For the buzzer, I would suggest grabbing the door chime relay from a VW Mk3 Jetta because they are super cool sounding. And you will get mad points at VW/Audi meets.
You could potentially use that one item for both the relay and the buzzer in this case. I've not worked with one before, but I'm pretty sure that would be the case. It is basically just a fancy relay.

Disclaimer: I have not built the circuit above. I am just some guy on the internets. (I am also just some guy off the internets...hmm). This is just a suggestion. Please be safe and only perform electrical modifications to your car if you have the necessary skills to do it. That said, this is a pretty easy one.

[walky_talky20]

If you wanted the buzzer to also sound when you left your keys in the ignition, that just requires 2 more diodes and a little different hookup.



The Key-In switch is the one that goes "ka-chunk" as you pull the key out of the ignition. So it will signal the buzzer if you turn the key fully off, but fail to pull the key out of the slot. You can always defeat the key-in buzzer by removing the key (ka-chunk!) then pushing it back in (slides in easily). Just like stock, this circuit will allow the key to be in ignition without warning. If you want.

I wasn't certain how much current you can safely pull through the key-in switch, so in this circuit I changed the buzzer power supply to a fused battery source. The "30" circuit under the dash would be fine.

The Key-In switch might be a little more work to tie into. It is available at the ignition switch itself, at the cluster and presumably some other locations. I don't have a factory diagram at the moment to know all the interconnects and routing. A "posi-tap" on the wire where it leads to the ignition switch would probably be the best bet. It's fairly close to all the other hookups, too. It's a solid Red wire, which I assume is somewhat small in diameter, on pin 86S of the ignition switch.

EDIT: it's occurred to me that the diode on the purple wire is probably redundant at this point. I'm leaving it...for science.

[maxiz1]

That's brilliant walky! Thanks a million!

Although tempted to replicate the stock, i think it is sufficient to configure it using your 1st option. I'm not sure how to find the Key-in wire signal so I'll pass that option for now.

Also, I think I need to break the buzzer circuit when the car is ON to avoid sounding the buzzer everytime the door is opened. I guess this can be achieved using another normally-ON relay in series with the buzzer connected to the Ignition-ON power source. I believe radio shack does sell a single double pole relay to simplify the setup.

[LFP]

I just want to throw props out to walky_talky...you are truly a man amongst men. The knowledge and wisdom that you are willing to share with those of us who attempt to tackle problems that probably seem simple and mundane to you, but rather daunting to us mere mortals, is freely given. Never in a condescending or "holier than thou" way, but in a manner that is easily understood and even confidence building. Thank you for everything that you have contributed to this group.

[walky_talky20]

That's brilliant walky! Thanks a million!

Although tempted to replicate the stock, i think it is sufficient to configure it using your 1st option. I'm not sure how to find the Key-in wire signal so I'll pass that option for now.

Also, I think I need to break the buzzer circuit when the car is ON to avoid sounding the buzzer everytime the door is opened. I guess this can be achieved using another normally-ON relay in series with the buzzer connected to the Ignition-ON power source. I believe radio shack does sell a single double pole relay to simplify the setup.

I did consider the buzzer sounding while key is on/engine running, but I didn't think it was a big problem. You don't generally open the door before shutting the car off anyway, so it would be a rare annoyance. But yes, you could certainly avoid it if you wish. Factory system actually has 2 different buzzer tones, one for headlights left on (this has priority) and one for Key-In.

I just want to throw props out to walky_talky...you are truly a man amongst men. The knowledge and wisdom that you are willing to share with those of us who attempt to tackle problems that probably seem simple and mundane to you, but rather daunting to us mere mortals, is freely given. Never in a condescending or "holier than thou" way, but in a manner that is easily understood and even confidence building. Thank you for everything that you have contributed to this group.

Aw, shucks.

Thank you so much for the kind words. I certainly don't purport to have much in the way of "wisdom", but I do enjoy helping and providing some insight where I can. I am glad it comes across humbly, and not as arrogant or pretentious. I do worry about that sometimes, so I really appreciate your thoughtful remarks.

Best Regards,
Walky T.

[Turbo_B5]

If you wanted the buzzer to also sound when you left your keys in the ignition, that just requires 2 more diodes and a little different hookup.



The Key-In switch is the one that goes "ka-chunk" as you pull the key out of the ignition. So it will signal the buzzer if you turn the key fully off, but fail to pull the key out of the slot. You can always defeat the key-in buzzer by removing the key (ka-chunk!) then pushing it back in (slides in easily). Just like stock, this circuit will allow the key to be in ignition without warning. If you want.

I wasn't certain how much current you can safely pull through the key-in switch, so in this circuit I changed the buzzer power supply to a fused battery source. The "30" circuit under the dash would be fine.

The Key-In switch might be a little more work to tie into. It is available at the ignition switch itself, at the cluster and presumably some other locations. I don't have a factory diagram at the moment to know all the interconnects and routing. A "posi-tap" on the wire where it leads to the ignition switch would probably be the best bet. It's fairly close to all the other hookups, too. It's a solid Red wire, which I assume is somewhat small in diameter, on pin 86S of the ignition switch.

EDIT: it's occurred to me that the diode on the purple wire is probably redundant at this point. I'm leaving it...for science .

Hey Walky. Where would you wire stereo power to for it to stay on until the key ka-chunk


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[walky_talky20]

The "constant" power for your radio (the thick yellow wire on your run-of-the-mill Pioneer deck) would be wired as normal to the radio power. The "accessory" power for your radio (the smaller Red wire) would be where the magic needs to happen. You need to tie that to the "Key-In" switch. This wire does not go to the radio location. The Key-In signal goes from the ignition switch to central lock module in the trunk, I believe. So you'd want to tap into it at the ignition switch location with a Posi-Tap or similar and get that wire over to the radio area. Hope that helps.

[Turbo_B5]

The "constant" power for your radio (the thick yellow wire on your run-of-the-mill Pioneer deck) would be wired as normal to the radio power. The "accessory" power for your radio (the smaller Red wire) would be where the magic needs to happen. You need to tie that to the "Key-In" switch. This wire does not go to the radio location. The Key-In signal goes from the ignition switch to central lock module in the trunk, I believe. So you'd want to tap into it at the ignition switch location with a Posi-Tap or similar and get that wire over to the radio area. Hope that helps.

Thank you very much. This is going to go great with a second battery I’m throwing in.


I found the correct wire at the ignition switch, a solid red wire. confirmed it ran to the cluster by a diagram. Tapping into that wire at the cluster and will solder.