K03 hybrid turbo K04 internals

[dalmation53]

I have searched for this topic and a lot of gti owners seem to be doing this with awesome reviews. Have not seen much of that done on the B7 section. So this company basically puts the K04 wheel into the K03/ of cours its modified. The question here is what tune would you actually run with this? Do you really need S3 injectors and upgraded hpfp? I want to go this route with the hybrid. If it breaks oh well lesson learned but i might get away with it like the gti owners. Any info on this topic?

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[james12lucy]

@canadiana4b7 might have something to weigh in on this.


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[Audibot]

I have searched for this topic and a lot of gti owners seem to be doing this with awesome reviews. Have not seen much of that done on the B7 section. So this company basically puts the K04 wheel into the K03/ of cours its modified. The question here is what tune would you actually run with this? Do you really need S3 injectors and upgraded hpfp? I want to go this route with the hybrid. If it breaks oh well lesson learned but i might get away with it like the gti owners. Any info on this topic?

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That's essentially what the RAI K0R-GT turbo is. I ran it just fine with S3 injectors, upgraded hpfp, and FMIC on an APR K04 tune. If I had another go-around, I'd go for something more custom or check out JHM's tune.

[dalmation53]

That's essentially what the RAI K0R-GT turbo is. I ran it just fine with S3 injectors, upgraded hpfp, and FMIC on an APR K04 tune. If I had another go-around, I'd go for something more custom or check out JHM's tune.

Rai turbo is $2000 and theres a company thay does it for $500 with your core.

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[EvolutionArmory]

My answer here is the same as it was in the other thread. Buy a K04 turbo from a reputable company.

Or roll the dice with a fly by night hybrid company with no data to back up what they are selling.

[EvolutionArmory]

These cars are a bitch to modify with known and proven components because of how finicky they can be. Add a no name hybrid turbo in the mix and who knows what problems you’ll run into.

[dalmation53]

My answer here is the same as it was in the other thread. Buy a K04 turbo from a reputable company.

Or roll the dice with a fly by night hybrid company with no data to back up what they are selling.

If you are going to stick with what you said then i already know lol. I want different opinions.

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[tloft4]

thats code for "i only want to hear what i want" lol

if you save 1500 but burn through that fixing/replacing other parts, what have you gained?

but good luck, im sure people arent going to stop you from trying something different.

[canadianA4B7]

That's essentially what the RAI K0R-GT turbo is. I ran it just fine with S3 injectors, upgraded hpfp, and FMIC on an APR K04 tune. If I had another go-around, I'd go for something more custom or check out JHM's tune.

RAI turbo is not anything from the k03, it’s all made from k04 parts and a modified 0105 or 0106 compressor housing which has been machined. No K03 parts in the chra or hotside are used. And no it does not easily swap over a k03 chra into anything.

Other options that will likely work would be the Mazda k04/881/882/581 I think are all the same size k04 turbine wheel with different CHRA, I would like to see a f I can simply swap that super core into a b7 hotside. This will require only a chra from a k04 and swap over the guts and wheels. Most of this stuff can easily be done if you have a capable machine shop. Most of this stuff I’m finding is all just modified oem equipment. And by design too there’s not a whole lot of more options currently. Something I’ve been dabbling with is these IHI turbos being about 1 mm larger then our k03 and have a mixed flow turbine, I will have 2 billet compressors soon to see if that can make those flow better all around for those who want to get more out of theirs tunes.

As for tunes I’m not all that sure. But if I can make an IHI flow more into the higher RPM, then this would be very respectful for those on stage 1 and 2 tunes though the larger hotside might already be capable of pushing more air up top. This would be best if a tuner could reduce the amount of boost taper up top of RPM’s. Say hitting 18/19 psi the tapering to 16 or so maybe less of the turbo can handle it and fueling is sufficient. I remember the S3 k04 having cut outs up top likely due to fueling. If you wanted to make a k04 a good higher flow turbo invest in a billet 8 equal length compressor wheel. Less blades for top end flow is best. And to have 5 made costs about $600 up front. Limiting factor is turbine size. If more flow gets in more flow goes out. The oem style manifolds are limited. There’s options for different number turbine wheels too, longer length would likely be a better option for a turbine.

And I believe the RAI k0r is no longer listed. And being I just priced a core directly at $850 I would be better off sourcing a k04 core and just having a machine shop fit an oem 0105 or 0106 compressor housing. I’ve heard through vines this is all that another company is doing now. Their k04-r is another branding of the RAI k0R turbo. And when I find my vernier I can measure and tell you exactly the size of the rai compressor.

[Audibot]

Sheesh, was just giving a quick answer to "The question here is what tune would you actually run with this? Do you really need S3 injectors and upgraded hpfp?" and providing what turbo, which I had been led to believe was a hybrid K03-K04

[canadianA4B7]

Many have been lied to throughout the years. No offend was meant just want the truth out there. Too many companies continue to hide/lie and not be forthcoming with the truth.

Apology if I’m more then straight forward.

[martin0079]

RAI turbo is not anything from the k03, it’s all made from k04 parts and a modified 0105 or 0106 compressor housing which has been machined. No K03 parts in the chra or hotside are used. And no it does not easily swap over a k03 chra into anything.

Other options that will likely work would be the Mazda k04/881/882/581 I think are all the same size k04 turbine wheel with different CHRA, I would like to see a f I can simply swap that super core into a b7 hotside. This will require only a chra from a k04 and swap over the guts and wheels. Most of this stuff can easily be done if you have a capable machine shop. Most of this stuff I’m finding is all just modified oem equipment. And by design too there’s not a whole lot of more options currently. Something I’ve been dabbling with is these IHI turbos being about 1 mm larger then our k03 and have a mixed flow turbine, I will have 2 billet compressors soon to see if that can make those flow better all around for those who want to get more out of theirs tunes.

As for tunes I’m not all that sure. But if I can make an IHI flow more into the higher RPM, then this would be very respectful for those on stage 1 and 2 tunes though the larger hotside might already be capable of pushing more air up top. This would be best if a tuner could reduce the amount of boost taper up top of RPM’s. Say hitting 18/19 psi the tapering to 16 or so maybe less of the turbo can handle it and fueling is sufficient. I remember the S3 k04 having cut outs up top likely due to fueling. If you wanted to make a k04 a good higher flow turbo invest in a billet 8 equal length compressor wheel. Less blades for top end flow is best. And to have 5 made costs about $600 up front. Limiting factor is turbine size. If more flow gets in more flow goes out. The oem style manifolds are limited. There’s options for different number turbine wheels too, longer length would likely be a better option for a turbine.

And I believe the RAI k0r is no longer listed. And being I just priced a core directly at $850 I would be better off sourcing a k04 core and just having a machine shop fit an oem 0105 or 0106 compressor housing. I’ve heard through vines this is all that another company is doing now. Their k04-r is another branding of the RAI k0R turbo. And when I find my vernier I can measure and tell you exactly the size of the rai compressor.

Except the K04-R is out of china like the F23L and the HPA K04 and the K0R was a legit S3 hotside and CHRA.

[dalmation53]

Except the K04-R is out of china like the F23L and the HPA K04 and the K0R was a legit S3 hotside and CHRA.

Lol there all chinese but people still say go with a company you know.

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[dalmation53]

Guys i got the p0299 turbocharger underboost code. Replaced the diverter valve and the acceleration sucks feels like very little boost did i blew the turbo? How can i check if i did?

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[EvolutionArmory]

Do a boost leak test. If you have no leaks with a brand new DV, your wastegate door is probably loose/breaking.

That’s what did my turbo in.

[dalmation53]

Do a boost leak test. If you have no leaks with a brand new DV, your wastegate door is probably loose/breaking.

That’s what did my turbo in.

Wouldnt i get a code for wastegate though if that was the case?

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[EvolutionArmory]

If your wastegate door can’t close all the way, it’s going to bleed boost.

Rev your car up to 3-4K in neutral. Listen to the sound while it decelerates. If you hear rattle or what sounds like BB’s in a tin can, that’s a sign of a failing flap door. I would put money on wastegate doors being the biggest reason why these K03’s fail.

It’s VERY common Ivan, sorry to say.

[dalmation53]

If your wastegate door can’t close all the way, it’s going to bleed boost.

Rev your car up to 3-4K in neutral. Listen to the sound while it decelerates. If you hear rattle or what sounds like BB’s in a tin can, that’s a sign of a failing flap door. I would put money on wastegate doors being the biggest reason why these K03’s fail.

It’s VERY common Ivan, sorry to say.

Wtf i just did a Wot and car acted normally what the hell is going on???? That was very strange i did not here any sounds like you said. You think it just went crazy?

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[EvolutionArmory]

Cars don’t usually fix themselves. Don’t be surprised if it comes back.

Fingers crossed that it doesn’t though.

[dalmation53]

Cars don’t usually fix themselves. Don’t be surprised if it comes back.

Fingers crossed that it doesn’t though.

Yeah i know so i noticed my dv connector was also broken. Not by me. It was loose so i connected it all the way and zip tie it snug. Not sure if it was that to be honest. Funny how i start a thread about upgrading turbo and i guess he didn't like it very much

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[dalmation53]

Forgetn the fuel codes it was because i change my fuel filter. Screenshot_20180605-170536.jpg

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[AudiKilla]

Maybe it was your DV that was disconnected. If it still happens, perhaps change your N75 valve.

[dalmation53]

This is what i'm only getting nowScreenshot_20180605-213037.jpg

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[dalmation53]

Ok so i got boost nicely. On theb first run. Then second run it ran like crap no boost then third run got boost again nicely. I think you are right my n75 took a dump

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[EvolutionArmory]

Yeah. That’s probably because the connector is fucked.

[dalmation53]

Yeah. That’s probably because the connector is fucked.

No the connector in the dv is snug. I did some research and my symptoms seems to be n75. At 170k miles i think it's time.

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[dalmation53]

Ordered a pierburg N75. I didn't even knew this failed smh.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Ordered a pierburg N75. I didn't even knew this failed smh.

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You don’t know it failed. You just assumed it did.

[EvolutionArmory]

If you were getting P0234 overboost condition I would suspect a faulty N75. It isn’t the first thing I would look for.

Like I said before, check your wastegate arm for rattle. Climb under the car and grab the wastegate arm. Rock it up and down to see if it has some play.

Since it didn’t rattle by revving it up there are a couple other ways to see if it’s rattling. Get an Automotive stethoscope and put it on the hot side of the turbo. Have a friend rev the motor past 3k and listen on deceleration. The stethoscope will help you hear it.

Another thing you can do is remove the front 02 sensor and look at the wastegate door with a borescope. Put the scope in there and wiggle the wastegate arm. You’ll see the door move if it’s faulty.

Another thing to do is to pressurize the wastegate so that it’s forced shut. If there is wiggle before and it gets a little better pressurized, the wastegate door could be faulty.

You have to do function tests before you throw parts at something. 50 bucks here and 50 bucks there doesn’t seem like much but that’s 100 bucks towards a new turbo if the car needs one.