Wheel bearing

[mysticjocephus]

Sorry for posting a question that I'm sure has been answered. For some reason, I can't figure out how search works here. Anyway, my passenger side front wheel bearing took a dump today, and I'm going to replace it. The drivers side was replaced a few months ago, but split in half(?) when I tried to take it off. Basically the flange stayed on the spindle. Just wondering what the best way to replace/remove a wheel bearing would be. It's an 02 a4 3.0 6m.

[Gosser]

I buy a new flange everytime and get it pressed into the new bearing for sake of ease. I use to remove the knuckle completely to pound out my bearings as they are pretty seized. Now I use my brothers home made wheel bearing extractor. Just remove the axel, push it out and then extract. But even still that can take a considerable amount of scary force. Having the flange pre-installed saves down time. Buy an S4 flange that are much cheaper, but about 1lbs heavier.

[john_gonzo]

1. Loosen axle bolt.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Spray penerating fluid on bearing bolts (Qty 4, visible behind wheel hub) and around the entire edge of the bearing carrier.
4. Slide axle inboard slightly by pressing/tapping/pounding on axle bolt head. (This moves outer CV joint away from the four bearing bolts.) Spray more fluid on bearing carrier from inboard side.

5. Press hub out of bearing using lug bolts. Use old brake pads as spacers between bolts and knuckle.

6. An inner bearing race will come out with the hub. Cut this off the shaft using a Dremel/grinder with cutoff wheel. Be careful not to cut into the shaft. Also don't damage the metal slinger ring behind the race. That ring stays with the hub.

7. On the car now, loosen the four bearing bolts.

8. Remove the bearing carrier from the knuckle by pounding on the bearing bolts from the inboard side. This is usually the worst step. Soak it with fluid, tap it with a hammer to promote penetration, go have lunch.



Note about search: In your favorite search engine, try starting with "Audi B6 A4 3.0".

[eljay]

My passenger side came out with a slide hammer. Driver's side was a completely different story and I had to remove the whole upright and take it to a shop where they used air hammer to get it out.

[RDA990]

I did 3 front wheel bearings about 2 weeks ago. I bought this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...017617ecs01~a/ and hammered the old ones out through the back using the 4 bolts you take off there. They wouldn't come out from the front using a slide hammer.

[old guy]

I did 3 front wheel bearings about 2 weeks ago. I bought this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...017617ecs01~a/ and hammered the old ones out through the back using the 4 bolts you take off there. They wouldn't come out from the front using a slide hammer.

This is by far the easiest way to deal with a front wheel bearing replacement ↑ Smash the old assembly out and bolt in the new assembly.

[john_gonzo]

I did 3 front wheel bearings about 2 weeks ago...

Ah, the rare B6 A4 Cinc-tro makes an appearance.

[oaybar007]

How long has that kit been around?! Both my front wheel bearings went in 2011 and 2012 respectively. I believe front right was 112k mileage. Left front was 118k mileage. I paid a shop to do both jobs.

[RDA990]

Ah, the rare B6 A4 Cinc-tro makes an appearance.

Have 2 B6's in the house I have to do maintenance on

How long has that kit been around?! Both my front wheel bearings went in 2011 and 2012 respectively. I believe front right was 112k mileage. Left front was 118k mileage. I paid a shop to do both jobs.

Not sure but ECS & RockAuto are the only ones that have hub + bearing preassembled units available. The RockAuto one is Dorman brand, I didn't feel like dealing with pressing the bearings in/out.

[Gosser]

You can buy the bearing and flange separately and almost any shop will press them together in four minutes for 15-20 bucks.

[shurur9]

ebay: detroit axle..maybe.

Pressing are usually $20,,but can go a bit more.
You still save a bit $.

[mysticjocephus]

Any advice on a partially stripped 12pt? One of the bolts is almost completely stripped and I have no idea what to do next, aside from replacing the entire knuckle.

[john_gonzo]

Have you pressed the hub out of the bearing? (Use slide hammer or lug bolt method described above.) With the hub out, the back side of the bad bolt is accessible.

Option 1:
A. Spray more fluid on it.
B. Use a flat chisel to put a wedge in the threads of the bolt. Chisel on threads, aimed toward center of bolt like this: O<--
C. Rotate the bolt using a hammer and chisel in that wedge. Duller chisel is better (pushes instead of cuts). Rotate it clockwise - remember you are viewing the back side.

Option 2:
Same method but on the head of the bolt. The farther out on the bolt head you get, the more leverage you'll have to rotate it.

Option 3:
Drill it... Remove wheel hub. Drill into end of bolt. Hold the drill square though so it doesn't cut into the knuckle threads.

Option 4:
If you have all weekend, every few hours spray it and bash it with a hammer.

Option 5:
If available, heating it with an acetylene torch would help break the bonds between bolt and knuckle. Lesser heat sources may help. Still gotta have a way to turn it out.

[mysticjocephus]

Have you pressed the hub out of the bearing? (Use slide hammer or lug bolt method described above.) With the hub out, the back side of the bad bolt is accessible.

Option 1:
A. Spray more fluid on it.
B. Use a flat chisel to put a wedge in the threads of the bolt. Chisel on threads, aimed toward center of bolt like this: O<--
C. Rotate the bolt using a hammer and chisel in that wedge. Duller chisel is better (pushes instead of cuts). Rotate it clockwise - remember you are viewing the back side.

Option 2:
Same method but on the head of the bolt. The farther out on the bolt head you get, the more leverage you'll have to rotate it.

Option 3:
Drill it... Remove wheel hub. Drill into end of bolt. Hold the drill square though so it doesn't cut into the knuckle threads.

Option 4:
If you have all weekend, every few hours spray it and bash it with a hammer.

Option 5:
If available, heating it with an acetylene torch would help break the bonds between bolt and knuckle. Lesser heat sources may help. Still gotta have a way to turn it out.

I'll start at the top and work my way down. Many thanks!

[shurur9]

I ususally drill and use a tap.
The bolt is large; so a plumbing fixture tap will do better, the kind used to remove seating valve bushings.

You can get those bolts on ebay.
I have a full 8 bolt replacement set myself..for the future..

Also with the wishbone out, you may be able to hold the 12 pt square to turn it out.
The bolt may have a bit more turn left in it, at the bottom of the socket hole.

Non-seize the daylight out of those new bolts for the future.
i used Green grease..though I don't know yet how that will go over time.

[mysticjocephus]

Is it possible to disconnect the lower control arms/ball joints and pivot the entire thing up so the axle comes out? Or would I have to completely disconnect uppers, lowers, tie rod end, etc?

[shurur9]

Is it possible to disconnect the lower control arms/ball joints and pivot the entire thing up so the axle comes out? Or would I have to completely disconnect uppers, lowers, tie rod end, etc?

Maybe.
Most folks turn the wishbone to steer inward and tap the axle out via the wheel lossened nut.
I use a taped pipe to leverage the wishbone and tap the axle out.

other posters will chime in..

[mysticjocephus]

Got the bearing and old hub out. Anyone know where I could get a new hub quickly and fairly cheap?

[5ktq]

I don't know why you guys are wasting money on new hubs, getting the inner race off the old hub is a 10m job. Hit it with a torch and puller, or zip cut and chisel.

[projectvoltron]

This is what I have had success with in the past

I do have this wheel bearing kit from ecs. I think you should be able to rent a kit like this from most auto parts store

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...BoCFr4QAvD_BwE

Step 1:
Get axle out of the hub

Step 2:
Thread bolts through the hub bolt holes into the up. Turn bolt 1/2 turn at a time until the hub/spindle come out with most of the wheel bearing. (if you have an air compressor go to harbor freight and buy the $13 air hammer and it knock the wheel bearing right off the spindle) If you do not have or do not have access to an air compressor you can cut it off with a dremel. Be sure to use caution to not cut intot he spindle.

Step 3:
Use the wheel bearing kit to pull the wheel bearing out of the knuckle

Step 4:
Clean and emery cloth both of the bearing mating surfaces (inside the knuckle and the outer part of the spindle.

Step 5:
Using the wheel bearing cup kit press the bearing onto the hub. Being very liberal with the grease

Step 6: press the whole assembly into the hub and tighten the 4 bolts. Again with lots of grease

Step 7: drink a beer and enjoy new wheel bearings

[gtsingh91]

Do you guys think $400 parts and labor is excessive to replace one front wheel bearing? I wish I could d it myself but I work 7 days a week and this is my only car.

[gtsingh91]

If i purchase this kit, will anything need to be pressed in/out? It looks like the wheel bearing is already in this assembly. Wouldn't this just require me to remove the rotor, hub, and the old bearing assembly with the 4 bolts and then replace with this one? Would I need something like an air hammer to get it out of the spindle? Am I missing something here?

https://www.europaparts.com/wheel-be...e0498625b.html

[Gosser]

You will need to press in your old hub into your new bearing assembly. Or you can buy a new hub:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa...a0407615g~mey/
and get that pressed into your wheel bearing before you start any work. This saves having to find a place to press out and in the hub. It'll save down time, which is what I do. I hold onto the old bearing/hub and give them away for free to anyone who wants to salvage the hub for their bearing replacement.

You can just remove the four screws and beat the whole thing out with an air chisel, or 5 lbs sledge(my choice). With my cars, Ive had to remove the knuckles to properly beat the bearing out.

[shurur9]

You will need to press in your old hub into your new bearing assembly. Or you can buy a new hub:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa...a0407615g~mey/
and get that pressed into your wheel bearing before you start any work. This saves having to find a place to press out and in the hub. It'll save down time, which is what I do. I hold onto the old bearing/hub and give them away for free to anyone who wants to salvage the hub for their bearing replacement.

You can just remove the four screws and beat the whole thing out with an air chisel, or 5 lbs sledge(my choice). With my cars, Ive had to remove the knuckles to properly beat the bearing out.

yup..I found that removing the wishbone/knuckle and hammering the bearing out with a 4# hammer and an old axle worked the best.

Then I used a bearing separator and the wheel lugs to separate the hub from the bearing..then took it to a shop to be pressed.

Next time I think I will opt for the complete bearing and hub assembly.

Although sometime....I still want to try the freezer/hotplate assembly method....I can try that with an old set..

[A4orce84]

Hey Guys,

Bumping this thread back up. Unfortunately, I believe my front wheel bearings are starting to go, as I am getting the helicopter noise on turns and increased cabin noise in general. I'll do some more troubleshooting over the next few days to confirm it is the front wheel bearings that are making the noise (and not rears). But my car currently has 215K miles on it with what I believe are the original bearings. So, I am sure they are close to being worn out (if not already) by this point.

I wanted to ask what's the most cost effective option for getting parts for this job? I believe my options are the following:

-------------------------
Option-1: Buy one of the following Bearing + Hub kits with both items already pressed-in:
ECS - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...017617ecs01kt/
RockAuto - https://tinyurl.com/u64vbvt

Option-2: Buy the Bearing + Hub separately, and pay a shop locally to get them pressed in:
Bearing - https://www.europaparts.com/wheel-be...e0498625b.html
Hub - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa...a0407615g~mey/
-------------------------

Unsure why RockAuto is so much cheaper than ECS. Parts are not the best quality potentially?

Also, I believe Gosser mentioned getting an S4 "flange" (I believe he means the hub?) as the S4 ones are cheaper and interchangeable. Can anyone confirm this?

If anyone has any additional information to add, it would be greatly appreciated. TIA!

Thanks,
Asif

[Gosser]

Yes, by flange I mean hub. It looks like ECS has updated their hub selections a bit.

Here is the cheapest hub(same as what you listed), and its listed for the A4 ,which is the same style as the S4.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa...a0407615g~mey/

The difference I noticed previously was that the OEM S4 hub is solid like the above. Where the OEM A4 hubs have the back side notched out like so:


Technically the notched out version means it is lighter/more racecar like, but honestly, no one is going to notice the rotational mass difference.

A shop only charged me 20cad/15usd to press it in. I would just call around and see if its the same, as that will help you make the decision if buying it preassembled or not. I have only heard nothing but; "I replaced my bearing 3 months ago and its making noise again" kind of stories with aftermarket bearings. Rockauto is so cheap because there are cheap aftermarket options for everything in life. You are rolling the dice, and I'll go OEM(or SKF/*** OE supplier) every time for a bearing. Nothing else. Im sure there is a larger factor of properly installing a bearing that leads to early failure, but that is impossible to rule out without seeing it happen. Avoid that Rockauto bearing if you want to save yourself from doing it again is my advise.

Good luck.

[Turbo510]

A4orce84, I suggest option number 2.

At around the same mileage as your car, I changed out all four bearings. For the fronts, I bought the kits which includes a bearing in the steel housing and new bolts. For the rear, just the bearings only. I couldn't get any of the triple-square socket head bolts to loosen with my Harbor Freight electric impact wrench, so I toted the entire Aluminum front suspension castings with bearings and hubs to the local auto machine shop. The rears were similar; I removed the steel castings containing the bearings and hubs, and took those and the new bearings to the shop. The shop labor was around $20 per bearing.

After putting the rear bearing carriers back on the car, I reset the camber because I forgot to properly mark the eccentric bolts. I used a carpenter's square set on the floor next to the tire, and a ruler to adjust those bolts to be about 1 degree of camber, or whatever the spec is. I lost all my notes when a criminal a-hole broke into my car. But, with new bearings and a set of new tires, my A4 is brand-new quiet on the freeway, despite having 227K miles.