Oil Pressure Sender Location?

[Aiserock]

I am getting the code (at my desk not remembering actual number) that puts my car in limp mode telling me not to exceed 4k RPM. I pulled the code with the VAG cable that led me to the below part

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...in/06e919081g/

My question is, where the hell is it? I read a review where the guy said he changed it and gave a vague description of the location.

I heard at one point it was a recall. Also there is a 1 pin and a two pin, not sure if we use both or one or the other. If I could find the thing I could possibly unplug it and check the pin status. I tried looking around the oil filter canister but didn't see it.

I've tried saerching the forums and am having no luck, maybe I'm search dumb.

Thanks in advance.

[juniorcruzer]

It is directly in front of the and under the oil filter and under the super charger. Just replaced mine for the same reason, along with the PCV valve that was having issues.

Use this post to cover getting the supercharger off, it is relatively easy. DIY-S4-Waterpump-and-Thermostat-Install-Supercharger-Removed

if you look at this picture, and use the oil filter housing as a clock, it is in about the 9 o'clock position screwed into the block only a couple inches from the oil filter housing and just to the right of the bottom intake openings at the 1 o'clock position.


jon

[Aiserock]

It is directly in front of the and under the oil filter and under the super charger. Just replaced mine for the same reason, along with the PCV valve that was having issues.

Use this post to cover getting the supercharger off, it is relatively easy. DIY-S4-Waterpump-and-Thermostat-Install-Supercharger-Removed

if you look at this picture, and use the oil filter housing as a clock, it is in about the 9 o'clock position screwed into the block only a couple inches from the oil filter housing and just to the right of the bottom intake openings at the 1 o'clock position.

jon

Thanks Jon!

[Corradobrit]

I am getting the code (at my desk not remembering actual number) that puts my car in limp mode telling me not to exceed 4k RPM. I pulled the code with the VAG cable that led me to the below part

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...in/06e919081g/

My question is, where the hell is it? I read a review where the guy said he changed it and gave a vague description of the location.

I heard at one point it was a recall. Also there is a 1 pin and a two pin, not sure if we use both or one or the other. If I could find the thing I could possibly unplug it and check the pin status. I tried looking around the oil filter canister but didn't see it.

I've tried saerching the forums and am having no luck, maybe I'm search dumb.

Thanks in advance.

I had this issue shortly before my warranty expired in March. Dodged a bullet there. I was in sport mode on the freeway and CEL came on with max 4K rpm warning. Checked codes and they match oil pressure sensor. Seems to be a common issue. There are two sensors and it was the high pressure one that went bad. Had it replaced under warranty and its been good ever since. Apparently access isn't the easiest.

[Aiserock]

I had this issue shortly before my warranty expired in March. Dodged a bullet there. I was in sport mode on the freeway and CEL came on with max 4K rpm warning. Checked codes and they match oil pressure sensor. Seems to be a common issue. There are two sensors and it was the high pressure one that went bad. Had it replaced under warranty and its been good ever since. Apparently access isn't the easiest.

I've read that it's a PIA to get to with the super charger on, I'm thinking about doing a preventative maintenance PCV/thermostat change and handling it then.

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

[rgpwr]

If you remove the foam heat shield (pull on it and it will come out), you can see the sensor. It is definitely possible to change without removing the supercharger if you have swivel sockets.

[Aiserock]

If you remove the foam heat shield (pull on it and it will come out), you can see the sensor. It is definitely possible to change without removing the supercharger if you have swivel sockets.

That's good to know. Thanks.

[cspena]

If you remove the foam heat shield (pull on it and it will come out), you can see the sensor. It is definitely possible to change without removing the supercharger if you have swivel sockets.

I removed the foam heat shield to which you're referring and spotted a sensor on my 3.0T A6. Once I disconnected it, however, I found that it's a single pin sensor not the two-pin sensor. Other research I've found says that the 2-pin sensor is actually parallel to the ground in the back of the engine near the oil filter housing somewhere and not readily visible. I think I found it, but to replace it by feel will be a huge challenge. I'm considering removing the supercharger to see if it will make it easier to replace.

[Strong Man]

Hi guys,

Can someone tell which socket size fit for the sensor ?

[Strong Man]

No one?!

[Strong Man]

I've just finished to change the sensor. Socket size is 24.

[Strong Man]

Hi Guys,

I replaced the sensor just two months ago.

Today , during standard acceleration on the highway the same error 6410 - Oil pressure sensor switch appeared again. Once I turned the engine off and on again the error just disappeared. I cleaned the error code , but I'm quite worried what the hell is ?!
I don't know where else to look into it.

Any advice would be really helpful.

[cspena]

Hi Guys,

I replaced the sensor just two months ago.

Today , during standard acceleration on the highway the same error 6410 - Oil pressure sensor switch appeared again. Once I turned the engine off and on again the error just disappeared. I cleaned the error code , but I'm quite worried what the hell is ?!
I don't know where else to look into it.

Any advice would be really helpful.

Were you able to resolve this issue?

[Corradobrit]

There are two sensors. May be issues with the other one. I'd also check the wiring going into sensors.

[Charlie B]

There are two sensors. May be issues with the other one. I'd also check the wiring going into sensors.

A few quick questions about this. I have a B8 S4.
Is the Grey or Violet sensor next to the Oil Filter?
Where is the other?

[mercedesinfarct]

I have this exact issue. Can't push the car at all, or else i get the EPC light and 4k error. I'm taking it to my shop on Tuesday morning. I too got the oil pressure sensor error, so I bought and replaced both sensors. Did a pull on the highway and am still getting the EPC "do not exceed 4k RPM" error. I scanned again using OBD11 and I'm getting 3 different errors. Anyone experience this before? Any answers? How can this be so commonplace, yet talked about so little? Screenshot_20190820-184813_OBDeleven.jpegScreenshot_20190820-184803_OBDeleven.jpegScreenshot_20190820-184728_OBDeleven.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Audizine mobile app

[mercedesinfarct]

no one else has ever had the Oil Pressure sensor error code?

[bartenderfloyd]

no one else has ever had the Oil Pressure sensor error code?

I have it but I have a 2012 3.0T A6. Still trying to find answers.

[Aiserock]

There are two sensors, the one under the supercharger was not the one I was having problems with. Unfortunately, I changed it twice before learning there was another sensor on the back of the engine attached to the oil filter housing.

It's not the easiest to get to but if you remove the solenoid bank that is attached to the supercharger it makes life easier. I also cut some zip ties to move some things around to give me a little more space.

Good luck!

[Charlie B]

I can not pop the electric connector off the sensor by the super charger. What is the trick. I have not removed the SC, just trying to get to it in the tight space.

[Charlie B]

I actually got the electric connector off. Kinda worked a screw driver in there and it came free. Any way the oil pressure sensor is grey and single pin. I believe this should be replaced with the same grey single pin pressure sender and the purple one must be for the pressure sensor around behind the engine below the oil filter housing. The purple one is two pin and will not find into the electric connector by the super charger where the grey one comes out. Ill report back once I have each one swapped out. I have a feeling the one that goes bad more often (based on most peoples reports) is the one purple one in the back that more difficult to get to.

Here are the part number from Audi:

06E-919-081-G Purple Two pin $21.08
038-919-081-P Grey One Pin $38.16

[Charlie B]

So after the swap out of the Grey One Pin Sensor on the top of the engine, I seem to have success in regaining full performance of the car. I've driven about 700 miles in a week or two with hard driving and no warning lights.
A few tips for the change out (while SC is in place).
- First the 24mm Socket I would recommend buying a 3/8" drive rather than a 1/2" drive if you can find it. The reason is that the swivel socket attachment is smaller. The large 1/2" swivel is too big to get in there with the 24mm deep socket.
- Second I found that the starter socket size for the sensor is 15mm (someone mentioned 18mm). The 15mm slides tightly onto the plastic part of the sensor so I am able to finger spin the sensor into the hole with the help of the 3/8" swivel driver and a 12" extension. Then tighten it up with the 24mm deep socket.
- Third there was a little oil that gurgled out (less than an oz) and sat on the lip around the hole where the sensor is removed. There is also dirt on that shelf which I did not clean before hand. When I was placing the new sensor down it did get some dirt on the sensor which I had to clean off and then retry. I recommend cleaning that oil and dirt off before replacing the new sensor. It would require some kind of stick with a rag taped to it.
- Fourth have a magnetic stick available to help place the new sensor in the hole. The swivel socket was hard to aim and the magnetic stick helped adjust the new sensor. It also helped getting the old sensor out.
- Fifth is only that the new sensor lined up about 180 degrees from the new sensor which wasn't a big deal other than the plug needed to be spined 180 degree as well to reconnect.

Good luck. This seems to be a common enough issue with B8 S4 and it is possible to do yourself with the right tools and about 1-2 hours of time. It was a PITA but I've done worse for less important problems. I doubt a shop would do the job without taking off the SC which I'm guessing starts at $500 and probably closer to $1K.

[Bartlett]

Anyone know if there is a way to log oil pressure in any meaningful way? It seems like there are a bunch of obscure parameters and not a simple single measurement.

[dlo93]

Are there any DIY guides for replacing the purple 2 pin sensor? Im getting low oil pressure warning...

[97joey]

Did you manage to get it off?

- - - Updated - - -

Are there any DIY guides for replacing the purple 2 pin sensor? Im getting low oil pressure warning...

Did you manage to get it off?

[B. Rock]

Bumping this - for the 24mm deep socket, could you not just use a wrench instead? Looks like I'm doing this over the weekend and will get a 24mm deep swivel socket if I have to, but I already have a 24mm combo wrench.

[Bshiau]

Did you manage to get it off?

- - - Updated - - -


Did you manage to get it off?

I just replaced mine today. I used a long thin flat screwdriver inserted on the left side of the plug. There is a gap on the tab and if you insert the screwdriver and apply a little pressure to the left, it will slide right off.

[Bshiau]

So after the swap out of the Grey One Pin Sensor on the top of the engine, I seem to have success in regaining full performance of the car. I've driven about 700 miles in a week or two with hard driving and no warning lights.
A few tips for the change out (while SC is in place).
- First the 24mm Socket I would recommend buying a 3/8" drive rather than a 1/2" drive if you can find it. The reason is that the swivel socket attachment is smaller. The large 1/2" swivel is too big to get in there with the 24mm deep socket.
- Second I found that the starter socket size for the sensor is 15mm (someone mentioned 18mm). The 15mm slides tightly onto the plastic part of the sensor so I am able to finger spin the sensor into the hole with the help of the 3/8" swivel driver and a 12" extension. Then tighten it up with the 24mm deep socket.
- Third there was a little oil that gurgled out (less than an oz) and sat on the lip around the hole where the sensor is removed. There is also dirt on that shelf which I did not clean before hand. When I was placing the new sensor down it did get some dirt on the sensor which I had to clean off and then retry. I recommend cleaning that oil and dirt off before replacing the new sensor. It would require some kind of stick with a rag taped to it.
- Fourth have a magnetic stick available to help place the new sensor in the hole. The swivel socket was hard to aim and the magnetic stick helped adjust the new sensor. It also helped getting the old sensor out.
- Fifth is only that the new sensor lined up about 180 degrees from the new sensor which wasn't a big deal other than the plug needed to be spined 180 degree as well to reconnect.

Good luck. This seems to be a common enough issue with B8 S4 and it is possible to do yourself with the right tools and about 1-2 hours of time. It was a PITA but I've done worse for less important problems. I doubt a shop would do the job without taking off the SC which I'm guessing starts at $500 and probably closer to $1K.

I was able to replace the sensor in exactly 1 hour. And that included finding and retrieving a tool I dropped behind the engine. I wouldn’t have been able to complete this without these tips. Many thanks to Charlie B

Also wanted to point out that my sensor ended up upside down after tightening. Maybe we both went too far?

[Bshiau]

Turns out that leaving the one pin sensor upside down means that the sensor is not on tight enough. Motor oil leaking on a hot engine is scary.

Anyways, replacing the one pin did not solve my issue. I just received the 2 pin purple sensor today and was able to install it in 2 hours. This time I counted the number of revolutions (about 9) to unscrew the sensor so I have an idea if the sensor is on securely. Went for a road test and the error returned. I just scanned using VCDS and cleared all codes, so I’m hoping this might be the fix.

[Smac770]

The torque spec for both oil pressure switches on the 3.0T is 20 Nm. Why not just torque it correctly and be done with it?

[Bshiau]

The torque spec for both oil pressure switches on the 3.0T is 20 Nm. Why not just torque it correctly and be done with it?

That is helpful info that I did not come across before attempting either installations. Wish I had known. Thanks for updating this thread.

[h_curtis]

So I have replaced the gray sender that is located between the oil filter housing and supercharger that was pain in the butt to be honest and that didn't solve my issue as I am not able to drive over 4,000 RPMs still. I guess I need the purple one. I searched all over the place and for some reason can't find a picture or video of this purple one that is on the back of the motor somewhere. Anyone have a picture or link to where that one is located. Sorry about bumping this old thread.

Thanks for any help.

[Bshiau]

I used this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0a13tJm4N4

[Bshiau]

YouÂ’ll have to do this by feel. Someone mentioned using a mirror to take pictures. Fortunately I previously purchased one of these off Amazon:
Wireless Endoscope, DEPSTECH Upgrade 5.0MP HD Inspection Camera, Scope Camera with Light, 16 inch Focal Distance, Semi-Rigid Snake Waterproof Borescope with 2200mAh Battery for iPhone & Android-16.5FT

There was just enough room to get my right hand in the space to the right of the filter housing after cutting a couple zip ties. I used a stubby flat screwdriver to get the plug off. The latch on the plug will be by your thumb, and remember to push the screwdriver toward the sensor before you pull to release the catch on the plug. After that, a 24mm deep socket with a short 3/8 drive extension, and you are done. It took me an hour to confidently identify the sensor location, but only a couple minutes to replace it. Good luck and remember to be patient. This was much easier than the single pin which youÂ’ve already done.

[h_curtis]

Okay, so it is on the other side of the damn oil filter housing. This job sucks to be honest, but what can you do? Thanks to both of you that replied. Hope this works out.

[Smac770]

The oil pressure switch at the oil filter stand is the gray 1-pin reduced oil pressure switch F378, 038 919 081 P. This monitors basic oil pressure at the 0.75-1.05 bar breakpoint.
The oil pressure switch on the backside of the engine is the violet 2-pin oil pressure switch F22, 06E 919 081 G. This monitors the elevated oil pressure at the 2.3-2.8 bar breakpoint, which should be present when the two-stage oil pump is in high pressure mode, such as when you rev up the engine. (originally, I think the 3.0T used the same gray 2-pin 06E 919 081 C 2.5-3.2 bar switch that the 3.2L used)

If you're getting a message about don't rev up, I'd think it would be the F22. If it were the F378, you'd be getting messages of "shut the engine off now".
The F22 is on the base of the oil filter stand. So if you consider the oil filter orientation on the engine, and look at the first pic of https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...er/06e115405k/ , you see the gold hole that the F22 screws into, on the backside of the engine.

[Smac770]

The manual mentions if you have the V50 coolant pump, to detach it from the bracket and move it aside. I guess maybe it blocks access.

[Woodepic]

There was just enough room to get my right hand in the space to the right of the filter housing after cutting a couple zip ties. I used a stubby flat screwdriver to get the plug off. The latch on the plug will be by your thumb, and remember to push the screwdriver toward the sensor before you pull to release the catch on the plug. After that, a 24mm deep socket with a short 3/8 drive extension, and you are done. It took me an hour to confidently identify the sensor location, but only a couple minutes to replace it. Good luck and remember to be patient. This was much easier than the single pin which youÂ’ve already done.

Oh my goodness this was difficult on my 2014 S5 Cabriolet 3.0T.

To start, it's near impossible to see the connector. I used a scope camera to find it. It's roughly in the center of the engine, about 6" down, parallel to the driving direction like mentioned.

However, my connector latch mechanism was not on my thumb side (top), it was on the bottom. Also I had one of the latching connectors which made it near impossible to take off. My connector was 8k0973702D if you wanna google it. I managed to get it off by duct taping a cut nail to my finger, which gave me juuuuussst enough poking ability to open the bottom-facing red lock mechanism.

Also there was not enough room to get in a ratchet, so I ended up using a swivel connection with an extension to force it open.

Fortunately, I did finish the job in under 2 hours, but it was rather miserable haha. When I reinstalled the new sensor, the connector mechanism was now on the top (much better design), so they must've changed that in one of the iterations. (The valve I removed was 06E919081C, and I replaced it with 06E919081G).

Overall, thanks to this thread, you made this job much easier!

[tsuengr9]

Hello,
Are there two oil pressure switches (F22 - 1 pin and F378 - 2 pin) on the Audi A6 C6 3.0T engine with a supercharger? If so, where are they located? Thanks.

[Smac770]

CCAA used in the C6.5 has the same oil switches configuration as the CCBA used in the B8.0, and no doubt the same as the EA837 3.0T updates used in the electro-mechanical steering vehicles later (CGXB, CGXC, CTUA, CTUB).