Should I add a downpipe?

[MN_AudiA4]

Looking for peoples experience with downpipes on their car. I have a 2013 A4 with an APR I tune, AWE touring exhaust and RocEuro Intake... I know the 2.0t doesn't have the best exhaust note compared to the v6/v8 engines, but I was hoping to add a little more tone to my car. Curious what peoples thoughts are on the downpipe either AWE/APR... Debating on it, but don't know if its worth it.

The difference between Stage I E85 and Stage II E85 is relatively minimal, so it would be more for the sound than anything. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[BB-A4]

HP is minimal, your gain is in torque. I'm debating that decision as well. It's a pain in Dallas because they test emissions.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[scecchitano25]

According to AWE's website, there is no HP gain with adding their downpipe. I went with the AWE touring exhaust, kept the stock downpipe, and ran a CTS turbo catless pipe. Check out my cold start video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc7WEB27QPg

I love the sound; there is little to no droning, but if I get on the pedal, I hear plenty of what I paid for!

[YotoWerks]

I added Integrated Engineering DP HFC and Resonator Delete on mine and I can tell there is a big difference past 4000rpm.
With Just stage 2 on 93 it pulled hard then flattened out past 4k and started to die off after say 5500rpm.
With the Downpipe it has more of linear increasing pull past 4k and the torque is insane ofcourse.

It also makes DSG shift farts as I like to call them when you manually shift past 50% throttle.

[AutoRacer100]

How about buying an APR DP with HFC? The APR website claim lots HP and Torque gain with their DP with HFC.

[tominabox1]

HP is minimal, your gain is in torque. I'm debating that decision as well. It's a pain in Dallas because they test emissions.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

they only do OBDII tests, and you can have 1 test unready and still pass
https://www.dps.texas.gov/rsd/vi/Misc/faq/faq_obdii.htm

For vehicles year model 2001 and newer, we allow one (1) non-continuous monitor to be Not Ready and still pass the test, but two (2) or more Not Ready's will cause the vehicle to fail.

[mortimersnerd]

How about buying an APR DP with HFC? The APR website claim lots HP and Torque gain with their DP with HFC.

Most of the gains from APRs HFC/DP are from the HFC.

[BB-A4]

they only do OBDII tests, and you can have 1 test unready and still pass
https://www.dps.texas.gov/rsd/vi/Misc/faq/faq_obdii.htm

I wish that were true but with apr stage 2 you will have 2 failures, catalyst not ready and oxygen sensor not ready.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[tominabox1]

I wish that were true but with apr stage 2 you will have 2 failures, catalyst not ready and oxygen sensor not ready.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Oh dang. I thought you only got the O2 sensor not ready. My bad. In that case I'd definitely go with a tune at home option that gives you the freedom to flash back to stock at any time for free (IE for example). I'm leaning that way when I go stg 2 in the fall time frame. FWIW, I've managed to go over 100 miles with an o2 spacer on my b8.5 so it would be a suitable solution for us in the DFW area.

[IbisB8.5]

I've managed to go over 100 miles with an o2 spacer on my b8.5 so it would be a suitable solution for us in the DFW area.

What spacer are you running? I’m having that problem now on my B8.5


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[RG4]

I’m running APR Cast DP, APR stage II tune on 93 and AWE exhaust. Can confidently tell you that a downpipe makes a huge difference. Not sure on the difference from stage I to II as I went straight from stock to stage II. My friend’s stock program B8.5 with AWE touring sounds much flatter and has less of that deep growl than my car does.

Whether or not it’s worth it is really up to you. IMO not worth the 600 beans if you’re not going to go stage II. I’ll see if I can dig up a cold start clip of my car somewhere.

[tominabox1]

What spacer are you running? I’m having that problem now on my B8.5


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Its the one that USP sells with significant modification - I had to use my step drill to drill out the little hole almost the full diameter of the rest of the spacer. I don't have exact measurements but I would recommend you get a step drill set from harbor freight and start from there, keep drilling it out until you stop getting P013f codes (delayed sensor response). Go too wide then you'll start getting P0420 codes (cat inefficiency). Find the sweet spot and you'll rarely get either (though when mine do pop up, they're still P013 codes but they seem to be infrequent enough to just be a bother, and I can pass OBDII emissions testing no problem.)