2013 S6 B&O Subwoofer (In The Deck) Upgrade

[s4nicetry]

I'm just wondering if anyone has upgraded the B&O sub that resides in the deck box before they moved it by the spare? It seems pretty good but lacks in the low end department. I've got some rattles in the rear deck that I plan on fixing in the near future, and figured if there's a suitable upgrade I can change it with and still utilize the box then why not, I'm there already. I've seen some older threads with upgrades to the spare tire sub and upgrades to the free air bose in the deck but can't find much info at all about this box and sub in particular.

[OlyS6]

The box itself should be amenable to stretching a bit with a heat gun to fit a deeper 8” sub into it. Others with your model year have built sub boxes behind the rear seats (subterfuse). I’d recommend using an Audiocontrol lc2i line converter to take the sub outputs from the factory amp, then using RCA jacks from the lc2i to an aftermarket amp that can adequately power your new subwoofer. Although a little pricey, JL amps and JL subwoofers never disappoint.


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[s4nicetry]

Could I not just hook it up to the B&O amp? How much power does the B&O amp put out? I thought it would be at least a couple hundred watts being a 1300 some odd watt stereo. I love JL, have had several of their subs in my previous vehicles over the years, I'd love to be able to fit an 8w3 or something into that box, but I'm pretty sure I'd need 8ohms correct and I believe a SVC 4ohm is all you can get with the 8w3. Rockford, pioneer etc. make some decent little shallow subs that might work with 4ohm DVC's but I'm not sure if they'd be any better sound wise than the B&O sub?

[s4nicetry]

Has anyone had success in eliminating rattles in the rear deck? If so, how did you go about it? I have that motorized screen but it doesn't seem to be the cause, maybe partially but you can feel the deck itself rattling and it really quiets down if you put pressure on certain spots. Is there a good foam or something to use as a spacer that works good. I was hoping to not have to soundmat the whole thing but if that is the best way to go, let me know. I'm like OCD with rattles and it's driving me crazy!

[lv2000]

On my 13 A6 with b&o I had to dynamat the rear deck lid to get rid of rattles audi replaced my sub under warranty as it rattled as well . Some one on here built a box from a Cnc machine recently in the rear deck possibly Olys6 ? It was layers of wood to make a box it looked amazing. maybe search for that thread I have a 2018 S6 with b&o now and the sub is a lot louder then my 2013! And it’s tucked in the spare tire location

[OlyS6]

Could I not just hook it up to the B&O amp? How much power does the B&O amp put out? I thought it would be at least a couple hundred watts being a 1300 some odd watt stereo. I love JL, have had several of their subs in my previous vehicles over the years, I'd love to be able to fit an 8w3 or something into that box, but I'm pretty sure I'd need 8ohms correct and I believe a SVC 4ohm is all you can get with the 8w3. Rockford, pioneer etc. make some decent little shallow subs that might work with 4ohm DVC's but I'm not sure if they'd be any better sound wise than the B&O sub?

Not sure how much the B&O amp puts out. I do know that it’s pretty simple to match an aftermarket amp for watts and resistance based on your choice of subwoofer. My JL10W3 is a 4ohm 500 watt, so I made sure my sub channel on the amp powering it is 4ohms and 500 watts. You should be able to easily match a single channel amp to an 8w3, although you’ll need to stretch the stock box a bit with a heat gun


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[OlyS6]

As for rattles, the box that I e currently got set up is attached to a plywood platform covered in 1/4 foam that is then screwed in underneath the deck. My box is then bolted to the platform. No rattles.


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[s4nicetry]

As for rattles, the box that I e currently got set up is attached to a plywood platform covered in 1/4 foam that is then screwed in underneath the deck. My box is then bolted to the platform. No rattles.


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I just went over your subwoofer thread and it is very cool indeed. You did a great job and I bet it sounds amazing. I really want to keep trunk space to a maximum though, I've even been thinking about ditching the deck mount sub and installing something in the spare section. Eliminate some deck rattles and get more trunk space, I just wish JL had a nice stealthbox or something that would work there.

[s4nicetry]

On my 13 A6 with b&o I had to dynamat the rear deck lid to get rid of rattles audi replaced my sub under warranty as it rattled as well . Some one on here built a box from a Cnc machine recently in the rear deck possibly Olys6 ? It was layers of wood to make a box it looked amazing. maybe search for that thread I have a 2018 S6 with b&o now and the sub is a lot louder then my 2013! And it’s tucked in the spare tire location

Dynamat may be what I just end up using then as well. For me it doesn't seem like the sub itself is rattling but I'll have to check it out when I'm in there, I've heard a few others say the sub itself was rattling as well.

[OlyS6]

Sure thing. If you're willing to ditch the spare itself, a JL stealth box would work quite well in there and would likely be fairly easy to secure in place. I wasn't willing to go that route (I've already had to use the spare for a blown Pzero early on), and I wanted to preserve trunk space as well, which is why I went with the mounted deck box. I still retain the entire trunk floor as well as the 60/40 split, unlike others that mount a box directly behind the rear seats.

[maxhawk]

Dynamat may be what I just end up using then as well. For me it doesn't seem like the sub itself is rattling but I'll have to check it out when I'm in there, I've heard a few others say the sub itself was rattling as well.

It's the metal in the rear deck and sunshade that's rattling for me. I inserted foam between the metal and deck cover which helped a lot, but didn't totally alleviate the rattles when there are loud low frequency notes. I suspect this is the reason the sub was relocated to the spare tire well.

[s4nicetry]

It's the metal in the rear deck and sunshade that's rattling for me. I inserted foam between the metal and deck cover which helped a lot, but didn't totally alleviate the rattles when there are loud low frequency notes. I suspect this is the reason the sub was relocated to the spare tire well.

I get it from certain freq ranges as well on the low side and it can be so loud, drives me nuts. I'm sure it was a big part of moving the sub for sure.

Sure thing. If you're willing to ditch the spare itself, a JL stealth box would work quite well in there and would likely be fairly easy to secure in place. I wasn't willing to go that route (I've already had to use the spare for a blown Pzero early on), and I wanted to preserve trunk space as well, which is why I went with the mounted deck box. I still retain the entire trunk floor as well as the 60/40 split, unlike others that mount a box directly behind the rear seats.

While I've ditched a number of spares in the past and currently have a bimmer with no spare and tossed the RFT's, I'd rather not with this car. I'm thinking an original b&o box to shove in there or a skilled craftsman to fabricate something to fit in the same area but allow me to step up to a good 10". I like your box but the one thing I wish this car had more of is trunk space, like the Avant. I constantly have it full of luggage or equipment, car parts etc. or usually a combination of many things. It drives me nuts they won't bring it here and for that reason you would have to pry my b7 s4 avant from my cold dead hands until something better comes along, like possibly the new Volvo V60.

[s4nicetry]

I thought I'd post a bit of a follow up to this thread. After taking some advice from OlyS6 and other members and doing much research I made an upgrade to my B&O sub but kept the deck mounted box and the factory amp. After much research I went with the Dayton RSS210HO-8 Reference sub. Great reviews, 8ohm SVC, suitable for small sealed enclosure (0.28ft3), 300w rms. I figured what the hell I'll give it a shot. I did a guestimate measure of box depth and it seemd to be ~5", but upon removal you can see the box was offset. 5" on one side and ~4-1/4" on the other, so with the sub being ~4.75" deep I had to break out the heat gun a bit, nothing too crazy though.

After dropping the sub, I mounted it back up being pretty meticulous to make sure everything was snug and clipped back in. There are clips on the rear electric blind in my case that were a pain to get the cover firmly clipped into. I even put some two sided tape around the clips before sliding sliding the lid inot place for a firm fit. I put locktight on all of the screws for the deckbox and the two midrange boxes and cranked them up tight. After getting it all back together and testing I found a rattle between the drivers "c" pillar and deck cover which I solved with a small rubber shim I jammed in between the two surfaces. (scabby, I know) Now the only other one I get occasionally is from the rear shade itself, but only at a particular frequency at high volume It seems to be internal to the shade though and I can't seem to fix it. It's okay though, it hardly ever rears it head, so far.
Sound wise the sub is amazing compared to the B&O sub. It blends so well with the system and is a much fuller sound with far less drop off on the lower end. I listen to pretty much everything but country, and this sub works great with all types of music. Now I just hope the rattles will stay away.

[blinx9900]

Nice

[Purevil]

Congrats!

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Nicely done. I enjoy see how everyone solves a "problem" we have in common. To the extent you find you don't have enough power to that sub over time, a small amp/loc combination (whether 2 units or 1 combined) we be VERY easy to connect and keep completely out of sight/mind.

Enjoy the soundz!

[s4nicetry]

Nicely done. I enjoy see how everyone solves a "problem" we have in common. To the extent you find you don't have enough power to that sub over time, a small amp/loc combination (whether 2 units or 1 combined) we be VERY easy to connect and keep completely out of sight/mind.

Enjoy the soundz!

Thank you all. The sub output doesn't seem to be underpowered, I wish B&O had more details on their amp specs though. All I could find is the C6 B&O specs whose amp is half the power of ours @ 700w with the sub channel output at 250w. I would think ours must be atleast 300-350w for the sub but can't find any definitive info. Seems to work great with the subs 300rms specs.
Couple weeks have gone by and the sub is broken in now with significantly more punch, I turned down the bass a few more notches to about 2/3's now, and it still sounds so much better then the B&O sub did sitting at a few clicks from max, couldn't be happier.

[OlyS6]

Great job!


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[sikessr]

Sound Deadener Showdown is my go to place for sound dampening. If nothing else. You will learn about it, but the products are top notch. You might just need some Butyl Roping. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products


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[s4nicetry]

Sound Deadener Showdown is my go to place for sound dampening. If nothing else. You will learn about it, but the products are top notch. You might just need some Butyl Roping. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products


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Good info for sure, thank you!

[LawDawg]

I just picked up my '13 S6 with B&O yesterday. I was coming from an '11 S4 also with the B&O. I did a VERY similar mod on the S4, and while the B&O system is far better in the S6, I immediately noticed the base lacking. So...looks like I'm doing this again in the S6.

Am I correct that the sub you spec'd was a 8 ohm SVC? If so, it's just a straight swap, right? (When I did my S4, the B&O sub actually fired down into the trunk, so my replacement sub had to be wired in the opposite phase - because it fired up - and I think I had to bridge it because it was DVC). Anyhoo...how is your system sounding now that you've had it for a while? Any other tips for someone taking this on?

It it as simple as:

1. Pop off rear shelf - being careful not to screw up sunshade (tips?)
2. Remove B&O speaker box
3. Remove B&O sub from box
4. Wire in replacement sub identically (provided it's an 8 ohm, SVC speaker)
5. Install Dynamat or other sound deadening (optional)
6. Put all back together reverse of removal.

[s4nicetry]

I just picked up my '13 S6 with B&O yesterday. I was coming from an '11 S4 also with the B&O. I did a VERY similar mod on the S4, and while the B&O system is far better in the S6, I immediately noticed the base lacking. So...looks like I'm doing this again in the S6.

Am I correct that the sub you spec'd was a 8 ohm SVC? If so, it's just a straight swap, right? (When I did my S4, the B&O sub actually fired down into the trunk, so my replacement sub had to be wired in the opposite phase - because it fired up - and I think I had to bridge it because it was DVC). Anyhoo...how is your system sounding now that you've had it for a while? Any other tips for someone taking this on?

It it as simple as:

1. Pop off rear shelf - being careful not to screw up sunshade (tips?)
2. Remove B&O speaker box
3. Remove B&O sub from box
4. Wire in replacement sub identically (provided it's an 8 ohm, SVC speaker)
5. Install Dynamat or other sound deadening (optional)
6. Put all back together reverse of removal.

Congrats on the purchase. System still sounds great, so much better than stock. The sub I chose is 8ohm and specs work nicely with the small box in this car, it is slightly too tall for the box and will require you to use the heatgun and stretch out the bottom of the box a 1/2" or so to fit. You could try a 1/2" - 3/4" spacer ring on top to avoid this but clearance with the cover might be an issue. I haven't heard of any issues with the guys who used 4ohm subs as replacements, so if I had to do it again I think I would opt for the 4ohm version so I could turn down the bass setting even more and still have a little more punch from the sub itself, that or just figure out how to do a nice, clean sub controller upgrade, that integrates nicely with the stock system.

[goldenzrule]

Does turning the bass down all the way eliminate bass with the sun replacement? My wife can be a bit sensitive to the bass as she is a migraine sufferer. But I would really like to increase the bass output to even out the sound as I too find the stock sub a bit lacking.

[LawDawg]

Congrats on the purchase. System still sounds great, so much better than stock. The sub I chose is 8ohm and specs work nicely with the small box in this car, it is slightly too tall for the box and will require you to use the heatgun and stretch out the bottom of the box a 1/2" or so to fit. You could try a 1/2" - 3/4" spacer ring on top to avoid this but clearance with the cover might be an issue. I haven't heard of any issues with the guys who used 4ohm subs as replacements, so if I had to do it again I think I would opt for the 4ohm version so I could turn down the bass setting even more and still have a little more punch from the sub itself, that or just figure out how to do a nice, clean sub controller upgrade, that integrates nicely with the stock system.

Well, I figured out why the bass sounded so weak. I used my VCDS, and ran the sound system output tests. Every speaker made the proper tone, and then when we got to the base loudspeaker…silence.

Is there any relatively easy way to tell whether or not the problem is with the subwoofer itself, or the B&O sub amp?

The service history of the car shows that the subwoofer has been replaced in the past.

Goddamnit.

[LawDawg]

*bass loudspeaker ...stupid Siri

[OlyS6]

You can take a voltmeter and ensure you are getting signal from the amp, and/or find a cheap sub to attach to the amp to make sure its firing.


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[LawDawg]

I ordered that shallow depth 4ohm DVC Polk Audio sub that had been mentioned in another thread. It appears to have a pretty shallow mounting depth, so I might not even have to heat gun the enclosure. I have a ‘13 B&O, so it’s under the rear deck. Hopefully getting to it isn’t too hard. How bad is the parcel shelf if you have the electric sunshade? FML. Already.

[booch]

I ordered that shallow depth 4ohm DVC Polk Audio sub that had been mentioned in another thread. It appears to have a pretty shallow mounting depth, so I might not even have to heat gun the enclosure. I have a ‘13 B&O, so it’s under the rear deck. Hopefully getting to it isn’t too hard. How bad is the parcel shelf if you have the electric sunshade? FML. Already.

I have a JL 8w3 in a DIY box in the shelf (with sunshade). It sounds great (for what is is) and doesn’t rattle at all. That said it is Dynamated. Check out my thread for more details.

[LawDawg]

I will definitely check it out.

As an aside, if no sound came out of the sub during the VCDS test, and no volts were shown, does this suggest either the sub or the amp over the other? Is it possible that the sub goes and we get this result?

I’m really concerned it’s the amp. That’s the more expensive part, and the one I was planning on keeping. Most blown speakers I’ve encountered still make sound, they just sound like crap. Do these B&O subs just die completely?

[booch]

I will definitely check it out.

As an aside, if no sound came out of the sub during the VCDS test, and no volts were shown, does this suggest either the sub or the amp over the other? Is it possible that the sub goes and we get this result?

I’m really concerned it’s the amp. That’s the more expensive part, and the one I was planning on keeping. Most blown speakers I’ve encountered still make sound, they just sound like crap. Do these B&O subs just die completely?

Others who are more knowledgeable will chime in, but the B&O amp. does have protection that can be tripped, resulting in no sound. Is this with the old sub or new sub? In the past when protection tripped (only happened during a test tone track), I had to cycle the system.

[s4nicetry]

I ordered that shallow depth 4ohm DVC Polk Audio sub that had been mentioned in another thread. It appears to have a pretty shallow mounting depth, so I might not even have to heat gun the enclosure. I have a ‘13 B&O, so it’s under the rear deck. Hopefully getting to it isn’t too hard. How bad is the parcel shelf if you have the electric sunshade? FML. Already.

You won't have depth issues with the Polk sub, 4-1/4" was the shallow point of the box. I would think the only issue could be the wire mounts. If you scroll up you can see the top of the box is very cylindrical where the sub drops in. This can be an issue for some sub designs although the images of yours looks like it will be okay, hard to tell for sure though.

I haven't heard of anyone's amp crapping out before but that doesn't mean it can't happen. I've heard of the stock subs separating causing a nasty rattle. I would think this is why the original was replaced in your car. That also makes me think one of the leads may have just popped off from a crappy install. You'll have to get in there and check it out. Deck removal is easy, but I recommend you get yourself a copy of the service manual. There is one screw underneath around the center of the deck. The two pillar trims must be removed, just pull them straight out at the top, then lift the piece up towards the roof to get the bottoms out of their guides. Be careful with the track guide piece, it is quite fragile and a bit of a PITA. With these out of the way, fold the seats down then pull the front of the deck cover up towards the roof. 2 - 3 metal clips hold it down to the deck. Then the rear where it is up against the sunshade you have to lift and pull towards the front of the car at the same time and it will pop out. Manhandle it a bit finding the right angle then the whole cover will come out. Unclip the power to the sub, remove the deck boxes screws while holding the box from underneath, drop the box, then Bob's your uncle.

When it's open I recommend tightening the crap out of the rear speaker boxes screws and anything else you think might rattle. I even got sticky back tie wrap clips to secure the wiring and put two sided tape on the clips that hold the deck to the sunshade. You can Dynamat if you want but not sure it will help if you already snugged up those other items. I had the deck out 2-3 more times tracking and eradicating rattles. The only thing that rattles now is the sunshade itself but only a bit at certain low frequencies. I tried everything to stop it but pretty sure the rattle is internal to the shade.

[LawDawg]

This reply ^^^ is gold. Thanks for the walk through. I already ordered some Dynamat, as I did that while doing a similar sub swap to the B&O system in my S4. It didn't have the sunshade to contend with, however.

On the drive in this morning, the system sounded like everyone had described - weak on bass...but not as though a whole speaker is missing. So I guess I'll find out when I test the system with the decklid off. If it moves, it's working. Ha! Nevertheless, I scanned for codes and got this:

03405 - Bass Loudspeaker
011 Open Circuit
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset Counter: 122
Time Indication: 0

So...yeah.

Anyway, on the connector for the B&O sub, I assume you just cut off the connector and attached to your sub? If so, are the leads labeled such that I can get the phase correct, or do I need to know the wire colors for the +/-?

I'm also following your brake pad thread. Your advice has been very helpful as I learn my new-to-me car. Much appreciated.

[s4nicetry]

This reply ^^^ is gold. Thanks for the walk through. I already ordered some Dynamat, as I did that while doing a similar sub swap to the B&O system in my S4. It didn't have the sunshade to contend with, however.

On the drive in this morning, the system sounded like everyone had described - weak on bass...but not as though a whole speaker is missing. So I guess I'll find out when I test the system with the decklid off. If it moves, it's working. Ha! Nevertheless, I scanned for codes and got this:

03405 - Bass Loudspeaker
011 Open Circuit
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset Counter: 122
Time Indication: 0

So...yeah.

Anyway, on the connector for the B&O sub, I assume you just cut off the connector and attached to your sub? If so, are the leads labeled such that I can get the phase correct, or do I need to know the wire colors for the +/-?

I'm also following your brake pad thread. Your advice has been very helpful as I learn my new-to-me car. Much appreciated.

The subs connector on the deck just unplugs, the leads to the sub in the box were just spade connectors, just pull the leads off the sub. I can't remember if they indicated +/- anywhere though, knowing Audi I doubt it. Pretty sure I had to use the wiring diagram in the repair manual. Any other questions don't hesitate and keep us in the loop with how it goes for you, cheers!

[s4nicetry]

Does turning the bass down all the way eliminate bass with the sun replacement? My wife can be a bit sensitive to the bass as she is a migraine sufferer. But I would really like to increase the bass output to even out the sound as I too find the stock sub a bit lacking.

There is no sub controller with this b&o set up unfortunately, so yes if you turn the bass setting all the way down you lose all your bass. Sounds like your wife would appreciate that and when she's not there you can just turn it up again.

[Mathews]

I done the exact same setup as @s4nicetry, you don't need to worry too much about the rear sun shade. There's plastic runners for the shade to slot into that go from the C pillars down to the rear. If your sun shade falls out of them you can easily put it back (start from the bottom rear).

Also, another pain would be getting all the existing sound foam out of the sub box if you wanted to replace it. I also highly recommend making sure you secure the mesh covers over the speakers properly so they don't oscillate when playing music, you may want to put foam under them.

[LawDawg]

Got my Polk 4ohm DVC sub in the mail today. Already wired the voice coils in series. Waiting for transplant tomorrow...unless the wife and kids kill my plans.

[LawDawg]

Do the sunshade tracks come off with the pillar trim, or do they seperate? They seem pretty snug up together. Also, I assume the rear deck comes off and the shade assembly stays tucked up against the rear glass? Looking into the service manual now...

[LawDawg]

Confirmed - B&O sub was not playing...dead in the water. Cross your fingers that the new sub plays, otherwise I have an expensive amp issue. Wonder if I would have been fine with the B&O bass if the sub was working?

[LawDawg]

And the new sub...........POUNDS. Wow. Just WOW. I can't tell you how worried I was that I was going to have an amp issue. I'm going to have to turn the bass down now.

So the sub trim ring that has the two pressure clips on it from the B&O system won't properly fit back over the new sub. So I'm just going to leave it off. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to screw the sub down tight into the box.

You were right about getting the shop manual. Priceless. Now to just put it all back together. First S6 mod in the books. I am very grateful for all of your help and advice, guys. My first week on the C7 forum has been great!

[s4nicetry]

Good to hear. I threw that trim away as well, not needed. Hopefully she goes back together without any rattles. If not no big deal, after the first time it gets pretty easy to do. Good call on the manual, very good to have for this car.