Notes from my clutch install (on jack stands)

[ellwood]

This past weekend I installed the Sachs Xtend with the OEM flywheel from Rock Auto. I decided to tackle the install myself as a personal challenge and also to save some money. I'd like to give a shout out to Vogz, rtl5009, and JimmyBones for answering my questions about the process and to ECS tuning for providing a great install guide. I do not intend for this to be a step-by-step DIY since the ECS instructions already provide plenty of detail for that. Instead I figured it would be useful to some if I documented the parts and tools purchased

The following is a list of parts I replaced. All of the bolts I replaced were torque to yield. I did not originally plan on replacing the exhaust clamps because I figured I'd be able to reuse the old ones. WRONG. The bolts were severely rusted to the extent that I actually had to cut the ears off of the passenger side clamp since the nut fused to the stud. In order to support my timeframe, I paid the local Audi dealership $60 for new clamps (don't do this).

#    Part                  Price* ($)  Retailer
1    OEM flywheel          605.78      Rock Auto
2    Sachs Xtend           626.13      Sachs
3    alignment tool        17.01       Europa Parts
4    exhaust gasket (2)    15.90       ECS
5    cat to dp nuts (6)    5.94        ECS
6    ds to diff bolts (6)  12.00       ECS
7    front axle bolts (12) 26.40       ECS
8    ds boot clamp         3.50        ECS
9    x-brace bolts (6)     22.20       ECS
10   steering shaft bolt   1.40        ECS
11   exhaust clamps (2)    60.00       Audi
*Includes shipping (if applicable)

The clutch alignment tool is made by Metal Nerd (#122) and fits perfect... I've never actually seen this part documented anywhere for the 3.0T.
My Sachs Xtend came with the pressure plate to flywheel bolts, drive plate to flywheel bolts, throwout bearing, guide sleeve, clutch spline lube, and the little handle tool that attaches to the clutch module to assist in lifting it into the trans. If you're ordering directly from Sachs, choose the PayPal option. I initially chose the wire transfer to save the 3% fee ($20) added for PayPal payments... turns out my bank charges $45 for international wires.

The following is a list of tools I purchased.

#  Part                  Price($)   Retailer
1  Gearwrench 85481      23.10       Amazon
2  Gearwrench 85483      24.82       Amazon
3  CDI 2502MRMH          123.99      Amazon
4  KTI62116              120.00      Amazon
5  trans jack            104.00      Amazon
6  6mm ball end socket   13.27       Amazon
7  Oetinker clamp pliers  ----       ------

The engine support bar and trans jack are a must have for this job. I chose a scissor lift type trans jack so I wouldn't have to worry about the cheap hydraulic jack seals leaking. Also, the height is controlled via a 1/2" drive ratchet and allows for very fine, controlled adjustment. Most of the el-cheapo engine support bars list the max working width as 59", but many comments will say the true max is closer to 57-58"... the distance between the fenders where you'll be placing your support bar is ~59". The bar I bought (KTI62116) had a max width of 61" so I had plenty of room. Note that the provided chains do not fit through the lifting eyelets on the supercharger so you'd either need bolts/nuts/washers or some other type of clamp to attach the chains. You'll also need oetinker clamp pliers of some sort to reattach the driveshaft boot clamp. I already had the Schwaben set from ECS.

The 12mm indexable ratcheting wrench made getting the downpipe to cat bolts off a breeze. I used the 16mm one on the drive plate to flywheel bolts since the length provides good leverage and fits in the tight space allowed by the access panel. The "CDI 2502MRMH" is an inch-lbs torque wrench. The M10 bell housing bolts have an 11 ft-lb + 90 degree torque spec, which won't be within the range of many ft-lb torque wrenches. The 6mm ball end allen socket made taking off the axle heat shields much easier. The one I purchased was 6" in length, which I would recommend over any of the shorter options.

The bell housing bolts are 2 time use, so I did not replace mine. However, for those who need to replace theirs, here are the part numbers I came up with. The steel lower starter bolt can be reused any number of times.

Bolt     Qty.   Part No.
M12x100  5      N91129601
M12x125  1      N91129801
M10x60   2      N91150701
M10x95   2      N91153201

If your clutch kit doesn't come with the pressure plate (pp) to flywheel (fw) bolts, or fw to driveplate bolts, the part numbers and quantity are listed below. If you're replacing the pilot bearing and/or rear main seal, you need new driveplate to crankshaft bolts, also listed below.

Bolt                  Size         Qty.    Part No.
pp to fw              M8x14         6      N91136102
fw to driveplate      M10-1.0x15.5  6      N91143203
driveplate to crank   M10-1.0x27    10     N90929401

[ellwood]

As the title suggests, I completed this job on jack stands in my miniature garage. I worked slowly and methodically with a friend bagging and labeling the parts/bolts we removed and torquing everything to spec upon reassembly. Since my clutch was toast, the inside of the bell housing was covered in clutch dust. We spend a solid 30-45 minutes thoroughly cleaning the inside of the bell housing prior to reinstalling the new clutch. Neither of us had any prior experience with the job and it took us two 11 hour days to complete. This time could easily be improved upon by using a proper 2 post lift, assembling the clutch module beforehand, and just working at a faster pace.

I generally followed the ECS instructions with one major exception. I removed the cowl separation panel (false firewall) from behind the engine to access the top 4 bell housing bolts and the shifter cross rod bolt. This allowed me to leave the cats bolted to the manifolds (yes, the transmission still clears). If you chose to take this route, remove the cowl separation panel first prior to lifting the car. The bolts you'll be removing are buried deep down behind the engine so you'll need to lay on top of the engine to reach them. Be careful of what you kneel/lay on. I chose an old yoga mat to place on top of the supercharger. I left the heater core hoses attached and just pushed the rubber grommet they sit in through the panel. This still allowed me to move the panel back far enough to access all my bolts and I did not lose any coolant.

If you're doing this job on jack stands, you likely will not be able to remove the trans from under the car. This is not a problem, but it makes lifting the clutch module into the transmission and removing the driver's side axle a PITA. For the lifting the clutch module into the trans, eat your wheaties... the clutch module weighs ~40 lbs. Your driver's side axle will likely be stuck. I attached a chain to the flange using some bolts and made a make-shift slide hammer with a sledge. You'll want to line up and tilt the trans such that you pull the axle out of the space where the axle typically resides. I left the power steering hard lines connected to the rack (if you have a B8.5 these won't be there). The driver's side axle flange gets all sorts of hung up on that little loop. If you had a lift, you can tilt the trans to get it below the hard lines; however, this was not possible for me on stands. Just an FYI since we dicked around for ~30 minutes trying to clear them.

I didn't take many (any) useful pictures during the process, but I can certainly answer any questions anyone may have about the process. Hopefully some of this information is useful.

[seandon_792]

This is a great write up with real world experience and complications. Would I ever try this myself, hell no! Lol but I can definitely see this being useful to the community. Great job and thanks ellwood!


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[CardFan]

Thanks for the info. I’m at 70k and Stage 1 with no clutch issues, but about to go Stage 2 and assuming I’ll need to replace sooner rather than later. Never done a clutch before, but have a lift in the garage now, so considering taking it on and this info helps a lot. I don’t have a helper lined up though lol, so my biggest concern still is how long it would take me.

[RReddington]

Nice writeup.

[ellwood]

Thanks for the info. I’m at 70k and Stage 1 with no clutch issues, but about to go Stage 2 and assuming I’ll need to replace sooner rather than later. Never done a clutch before, but have a lift in the garage now, so considering taking it on and this info helps a lot. I don’t have a helper lined up though lol, so my biggest concern still is how long it would take me.

I did most of the wrench turning, so I woulnd't be concerned about that if you familiarize yourself with the process. Having a helper was great for removing the rear section of the exhaust, the driveshaft, and having an extra set of eyes for looking around the trans while pulling it out/putting it in. In my case, my buddy really helped by handing me tools and reading torque specs so I wouldn't have to scoot out from under the car as often.

[CollecTTor]

You might want to clarify on that Xtend, your parts list indicates that you got it from RockAuto. Wouldn't want anyone to order the stock replacement they carry thinking it's the Xtend. Nice tips, I'll be doing this within the next 6 months, so thanks for that.

[ellwood]

You might want to clarify on that Xtend, your parts list indicates that you got it from RockAuto. Wouldn't want anyone to order the stock replacement they carry thinking it's the Xtend. Nice tips, I'll be doing this within the next 6 months, so thanks for that.

good catch! i've updated the list accordingly. best of luck with the install

[Jay@JXB]

Your part numbers for the bell housing bolts are gold, btw. ECS wants you to buy the whole $200+ installation kit and doesn’t list the PNs to get them individually. I searched the internet for an hour until stumbling on this. Thanks a bunch.


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[jaxkewl]

Thank, wonderful addition!

[vividracing]

Great writeup!!

[ellwood]

Your part numbers for the bell housing bolts are gold, btw. ECS wants you to buy the whole $200+ installation kit and doesn’t list the PNs to get them individually. I searched the internet for an hour until stumbling on this. Thanks a bunch.

Thank, wonderful addition!

Great writeup!!

thanks guys, i'm glad to provide back to the community

[S4Gibbs]

thanks guys, i'm glad to provide back to the community

Thanks for the awesome write-up, man. Any chance you have the part# or a screenshot of the part numbers on your ECS order for these parts?

# Part Price* ($) Retailer
1 OEM flywheel 605.78 Rock Auto
2 Sachs Xtend 626.13 Sachs
3 alignment tool 17.01 Europa Parts
4 exhaust gasket (2) 15.90 ECS
5 cat to dp nuts (6) 5.94 ECS
6 ds to diff bolts (6) 12.00 ECS
7 front axle bolts (12) 26.40 ECS
8 ds boot clamp 3.50 ECS
9 x-brace bolts (6) 22.20 ECS
10 steering shaft bolt 1.40 ECS
11 exhaust clamps (2) 60.00 Audi
*Includes shipping (if applicable)

[ellwood]

Thanks for the awesome write-up, man. Any chance you have the part# or a screenshot of the part numbers on your ECS order for these parts?

# Part Price* ($) Retailer
1 OEM flywheel 605.78 Rock Auto
2 Sachs Xtend 626.13 Sachs
3 alignment tool 17.01 Europa Parts
4 exhaust gasket (2) 15.90 ECS
5 cat to dp nuts (6) 5.94 ECS
6 ds to diff bolts (6) 12.00 ECS
7 front axle bolts (12) 26.40 ECS
8 ds boot clamp 3.50 ECS
9 x-brace bolts (6) 22.20 ECS
10 steering shaft bolt 1.40 ECS
11 exhaust clamps (2) 60.00 Audi
*Includes shipping (if applicable)

Fortunately ECS keeps track of past orders! remember that the x-brace bolts changed between B8 and B8.5... 034 Motorsports sells a kit for both

exhaust gasket 8K0253115D
cat to dp nuts N91130801
ds to diff bolts N10719001
front axle bolts N90441103
ds boot clamp N10772201
x-brace bolts N91151101
steering shaft bolt N10518405

[S4Gibbs]

Fortunately ECS keeps track of past orders! remember that the x-brace bolts changed between B8 and B8.5... 034 Motorsports sells a kit for both

exhaust gasket 8K0253115D
cat to dp nuts N91130801
ds to diff bolts N10719001
front axle bolts N90441103
ds boot clamp N10772201
x-brace bolts N91151101
steering shaft bolt N10518405

Thanks a ton man!

[jordan7982]

Did you replace your pilot bearing? I'm at 130k looking to go into 200k, so i would think anything in there I should replace...But I never see it as a requirement for replacement anywhere else on here and would avoid buying the starter plate bolts and pilot bearing. Also save messing with that part at all.

[ellwood]

Did you replace your pilot bearing? I'm at 130k looking to go into 200k, so i would think anything in there I should replace...But I never see it as a requirement for replacement anywhere else on here and would avoid buying the starter plate bolts and pilot bearing. Also save messing with that part at all.

I did not replace the pilot bearing, but that would have been the time to do it - especially if you're planning on keeping the car long term. If you're removing the driveplate for the pilot bearing, might as well do the rear main seal while you're at it. I listed the part number for the driveplate to crank bolts at the end of my first post for reference.

[cletus141]

@ellwood, I am curious why you needed the engine support bar to replace a clutch on a b8's4. Can you explain?

[JRYtheS4]

Thanks for this write up, bookmarked it. This will be me someday, and I appreciate the knowledge.

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[ellwood]

@ellwood, I am curious why you needed the engine support bar to replace a clutch on a b8's4. Can you explain?

When you unbolt the transmission, the engine is only supported by one mount on each side. The engine mounts prevent the engine from rocking side to side, but do not limit the engine from rocking forward backward. If you don't use the engine support bar, the engine will fall forward into the radiator when you unbolt the transmission.

Thanks for this write up, bookmarked it. This will be me someday, and I appreciate the knowledge.

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No sweat hopefully your clutch endures many more years of abuse

[Klasi]

Nice write up! Thanks for sharing. Will be tackling on mine as soon as the temps go up a little. Cheers.


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