Copper spraying head gasket?

[Teck09]

About to install the heads and am wondering if anyone recommends or forbids lightly coating the head gaskets with a copper spray? I've done it in the past on a high boost Acura build as well as a VR6 refresher without issue but seeing as how much work is involved in replacing them on this engine I'd rather not experiment. The head gaskets are Elring's being sandwiched between freshly surfaced heads and a cleaned/checked for flatness block deck. Any info or advice would be appreciated, thanks!

[rguil]

Wouldnt risk it. Your block and your heads are decked and checked for flatness, a fresh set of head gaskets is all you need. Didn't do it to my gaskets when i built my motor. 2.7 usually doesn't have any head gasket issues, introducing something other than oem materials sounds risky. i am no expert however.

[rdcyclist]

NOPE, NOPE, NOPE. If they needed copper coating, they woulda come like that. Even if you were running 2.8 bar of boost (you're not) coating the gasket isn't going to make it work better. Nope.

[Teck09]

Wouldnt risk it. Your block and your heads are decked and checked for flatness, a fresh set of head gaskets is all you need. Didn't do it to my gaskets when i built my motor. 2.7 usually doesn't have any head gasket issues, introducing something other than oem materials sounds risky. i am no expert however.

Good points, I appreciate the perspective.

NOPE, NOPE, NOPE. If they needed copper coating, they woulda come like that. Even if you were running 2.8 bar of boost (you're not) coating the gasket isn't going to make it work better. Nope.

Well, I am actually planning on running 2.9 bar so what about then?

J/K, thanks for talking me off the ledge. I didn't originally plan on using the spray but saw it on my fluids shelf and thought to myself, "hmmmm". I couldn't find any reference to anyone using it when searching so figured it was best to ask anyways.

Thanks for the advice. Now I can move on with my "This will be quick, all I have is a bad lifter so I might as well pull the engine and replace EVERYTHING including things completely unrelated and end up spending more on parts than the car is worth FML" build.

[rguil]

Im at 32 psi, no issues with just decked block and heads and fresh gaskets. (plus other goodies :) ))

[julex]

stock gaskets are good here for 36psi for last 4-5 years and counting!

[MacDaddy]

Wont hurt but not doing it wont limit boost potential either.

[slow ride]

Proper (smooth) surface prep eliminates the need to spray on gaskets like Cometic, but even if you spray it the reason is to help with water leaks as copper spray is not going to help seal combustion gasses in. The factory Audi type gaskets seal quite well alone as long as you have a good surface. I try to hand hone with 400 grit minimum when possible to ensure a good surface (some machine shops leave a lot to be desired).

[redline380]

Audis got 99 problems but headgaskets ain't one

[Teck09]

Thanks guys. I went with just the gaskets, no spray.

Next question, what is everyone's thoughts on using sealant on the VC gaskets? Prior to this rebuild I prob went through 3 sets of VC gaskets with and without sealant. Initially it would be leak free but in the end, always ended up leaking. I plan to redo the entire spider hose/breather system to eliminate that being a cause but am wondering what the concensus opinion is. My gut tells me that applying light sealant can't hurt but we all know how sensitive these cars are. My manual calls for dry gaskets but I really do not want it puking all over my fresh build.

[LJS]

You need to put a small dab in the (4) corners of the cam bearing caps (front and rear). I use the black GASKET MAKER not the adhesive.
To aid in keeping the gasket in place, when dropping the valve cover over everything, I spray the gasket down(both sides) with a gasket tack(the red Permatex stuff in the small blue spray can) apply the gasket to the head---be sure the little triangle section is in place then add an even smaller dap to those corners (again) drop the valve cover on and bolt it down like you would head bolts-- in (2) stages-1/2 torque then full torque... I also use that spray on both sides of the gasket for the spark-plug "tubes"
Neat and simple and NO leaks...As an aside- be SURE all of the gasket surfaces are clean and oil free.
PS- Use some of the gasket maker on the cam plugs---I fill in the grooves between the raised chevrons on the plug---very little is needed...

[christianb5s4]

Here are some resources for you to reference, there's a debate use of silicone high temp RTV at select areas of the valve cover but I'd recommend using it to ensure it's leak free for a long time.

https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng107.shtml

[chris86vw]

My gut tells me that applying light sealant can't hurt but we all know how sensitive these cars are. My manual calls for dry gaskets but I really do not want it puking all over my fresh build.

In my experience it DOES hurt.

The RTV/sealent dries to a different density than the gasket. They expand and contract at different rates and that is part of what causes oil to finally start to find its way through. Basically I've seen cars with sealant used start to leak sooner than those without.

Put some in the corners where it goes up over the tensioner and for the little wedge thing is all I do.

That was going to be my comment on the coppper sealant as well but it seemed to be the advice you were already getting. It is also why I almost never use gaskets between a turbo and manifold. Less stuff in there is less to fail. (2.7t oring style with the groove being an exception to that rule)