An ATP GT3071r Build Thread

[AJacksA4]

After 6 years of Audi ownership, and 3 different cars, I finally bit the bullet and did a proper BAT build. The car went from bolt-ons FT to 3071r in a matter of 2 weeks in my garage. It's pretty much all done at this point, but I gotta share it with you all. Thats part of the build eh?

So, what is the specimen on which we operated on?

2003 B6 A4 1.8t 5speed quattro
155k miles
On fake BBS's and a Suzuka grey vinyl wrap

Mods (before BAT):

JHM Stage 1 Clutch
Treadstone TR6 Intercooler
F21L Motoza Tuned
Bosch 550cc Injectors
Ebay 3" Test Pipe
Techtonics 2.5" DP
Custom piping to two Magnaflow mufflers
710n DV
OEM Sport Suspention w/ B5 perches
B7 S4 Rear Brakes
B7 A4 Front Brakes
Depo Headlights...

I really loved the drivability of the F21, super fun around town, but I was left wanting more up top. Having an RS4 as your garage queen sorta does that

So on to the build we go. I decided to go with a GT3071r .63ar due to the improved top-end. My end goal is 350whp with this setup (with w/m injection and stock AMB head)

I spoke with Dave at Motoza and he was prepared to take on the tuning. After talking, he recommended 1000cc injectors (possible e85 future for the car). He wrote me a base file and I began sourcing the parts. Deciding on a manifold was probably the toughest part. I wanted a top-mount style and heard so many mixed reviews on different setups, and while browsing ATP's site I noticed that they were 30min away from my house. Therefore ATP it is. I called them up and placed the order for the 3071r, T3 manifold, v-band downpipe, feed line, and an adapter plate for the turbo-dp setup. Everything fits perfectly aside from the Tial MVS hitting the motor mount bracket. ATP was super helpful and sent me a couple of 90 deg elbows test which worked better.

Later that day my stuff was ready, but it was Friday so my excitement had to wait till Monday. So, we got much of the major hardware:

Garrett GT3071r .63ar
ATP side-mount T3 manifold
ATP 3" downpipe
4' Oil Feed

Other stuff I ordered:

Tial 38mm MVS EWG w/ 90deg v-band elbow
HKS SSQ BOV
Bosch 1000cc Injectors
WG dump tube (ebay)
AEM Uego Wideband Gauge
I.E. Fuel Rail (looks cool)
I.E. Re-circ catch can
I.E. SAI Block off plate
I.E. Drop-in rods
OEM rod bearings
A shitload of AN lines/fittings

And Motoza is doing the MAF-LESS tune

Everything laid out


Teardown begins











Filthy engine...








Twin turbskies??









Fitting the two downpipes





Engine up, time to take off the oil pan and get those rods/pistons out!



Remnants of my old dipstick and some other black plastic. No metals in the pan at 155k, looking good!




Rods installed, time for reassembly and mock-up




Some shots of the goodies

[AJacksA4]

Painted the valve cover wrinkle black, turned out perfect!




Catch Can mounted


Oil feed line mockup


Drain line


Threw on an old filter I had, doesn't fit with front clip/headlight back on, gotta route to the old SAI pump location I guess.
Fuel line, rail, and injectors in place!








This is how the waste gate mounts normally, theres no clearance with the ATP manifold WG location. They were very helpful and we got it sorted out with a new elbow in 1 day






Coolant return made, downpipe wrapped and mounted up


Coolant feed line routed






Ebay dump tube works great!






And she's pretty much all done!

[AJacksA4]

Flashed the base file




Things are looking good! I'll post a couple of videos including the first start in a bit. The hardest part by far was the block-in rods installation. In the end I'l glad I did it that way so I can share with others who want to do the same. FWIW I never even touched my subframe, just raised the engine high enough to get the pan to clear.

Been driving it around for a couple days and I'm happy to report no leaks!! Haven't had a single issue yet, knock on wood. A/F looks good with the base file, Dave hasn't coded out the maf yet so I'm getting CEL and traction control light for that. Holy cow does it pull! Full boost at 4k

At 20psi it's already a monster. Down the road I'll be adding W/M to hopefully get to my 350whp goal. Dave thinks thats doable.

I've been having some boost creep with the WG spring at 13psi, but I'm thinking that'll be cured with later revisions. I never even told Dave what spring I had in the Tial so who knows what the N75 is tuned for right now.

Stay tuned for more!

[KHARDa4]

Looks exactly like my build with same parts except I choose a 3076r ATP as well. Dave has been great with tuning my a4, but that wanting more power thing will only increase. The next thing you'll be looking to do is return fuel and a built head, then maybe cams.

Are you using a blow through MAF?

[AJacksA4]

Looks exactly like my build with same parts except I choose a 3076r ATP as well. Dave has been great with tuning my a4, but that wanting more power thing will only increase. The next thing you'll be looking to do is return fuel and a built head, then maybe cams.

Are you using a blow through MAF?

Oh I know... I'm already thinking of going AEB w/ built valves and cams but that realistically won't happen until next summer

I went maf less with the setup. My maf was already wonky so I didn't want to spend the $$ for a new housing and sensor. I did go with a 3bar map sensor however.

ATP has been great, I was a bit turned off by what I've read about them but I had an amazing experience with them

[AJacksA4]

Running straight WG pressure here

[KHARDa4]

A fantastic sounding first start. I love how these turbos start spooling up then you hear the open dump from the WG about to suck the fenders into the turbo. Good job on the build. Have you reached the limits of the fuel system yet?

[BARRY]

pictures are missing. nice build. you're a much quicker man than me as my build never is going to be done. :( its been like 5 years

[jtoribio6954]

Looking awesome You ran stock pistons?

[DownhillA4]

Great stuff!

[Natejo91]

This is a bad ass looking build! Great job! Can’t wait to see what the final results are going to be!


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[BARRY]

Looking awesome You ran stock pistons?

from what i've read stock pistons are perfect for the amount of power he plans to make. when you're making around 400-420awhp is when the factory pistons eventually fail if i recall.

[KHARDa4]

from what i've read stock pistons are perfect for the amount of power he plans to make. when you're making around 400-420awhp is when the factory pistons eventually fail if i recall.

I'm running stock pistons in my car as well and will be going up in that power range, we'll see if they hold together :)

[AJacksA4]

A fantastic sounding first start. I love how these turbos start spooling up then you hear the open dump from the WG about to suck the fenders into the turbo. Good job on the build. Have you reached the limits of the fuel system yet?

It sounds like a BAT out of hell

The stock fuel system is keeping up just fine. When running off the n75 (25psi) I'm seeing ~12.2-12.5 a/f at WOT.

I'm running WG spring right now just because I'm still on the base file, no need to push things yet without Dave taking a look at the logs.

[AJacksA4]

Looking awesome You ran stock pistons?

Yup stock pistons. I was gonna go with AEB pistons but decided against it. It's my daily so I never really want to push things past 350whp. It's gotta be somewhat reliable

[yxri]

Sweet build!

[B6Lovin]

Get a pump in it before you do any boost past what you're at now. Especially if it's the original pump that came in the car. Trust me.

[B6Lovin]

from what i've read stock pistons are perfect for the amount of power he plans to make. when you're making around 400-420awhp is when the factory pistons eventually fail if i recall.

Unless some VW people have pushed em a lot harder - AMU pistons (and possibly even his AMB) will be fine for anything a 3071 can dish out. I was WELL past 25psi on my 3071 (and eventually at 28psi on my 3076) with AMU pistons/wrist pins and when the motor finally got torn down (parted the head from the bottom end) there were zero signs of premature wear or imminent failure. Proper fueling and AFR's to keep your EGT's in check is more important at power levels under 500 than anything else.

[BARRY]

i could be wrong, but the AMB pistons have smaller ring lands for better emissions. when you get up there in the power you either break ring lands or melt the corner of the pistons due to heat.

[AJacksA4]

Get a pump in it before you do any boost past what you're at now. Especially if it's the original pump that came in the car. Trust me.

My stock pump is pretty much new, replaced it 4k miles ago. You got me thinking now, I'll do a log to see what duty cycle is on the OEM. Did yours crap out or was it limiting your flow?

[AJacksA4]

What do you guys think about pinning the crank timing gear, how necessary is it at this power level?

[Matt Devo]

What do you guys think about pinning the crank timing gear, how necessary is it at this power level?

I'd do it, it's cheap insurance (either that, or run the IE timing gear)

[BARRY]

always pin it. there have been many documented failures at powers above stock. my current avant which was stock had its timing gear keyway fail.

[AJacksA4]

Well another thing to add to the list I guess. Thanks guys

[B6Lovin]

My stock pump is pretty much new, replaced it 4k miles ago. You got me thinking now, I'll do a log to see what duty cycle is on the OEM. Did yours crap out or was it limiting your flow?

I maxed out fueling with a set of 630's on a GTRS eliminator because the pump couldn't keep pace. You're going to run short on fuel sooner rather than later and that turbo wants to be at double what you've got it at now.

ninja edit - definitely pin your gear. no reason not to with what you've put into it. Cheap insurance like noted above.

[WESLIFE]

Build looking good

[KHARDa4]

A forum member pinned the timing gear and he went though catastrophic engine failure, I wouldn't use it. The last time I spoke with Tyler at IE he told me they weren't selling it anymore. The solution and route I went was a FSI press fit timing gear with ARP crank bolt, 6 bolt to fluid dampener. This the only route I would take.

If you're going that far look into converting to manual timing belt tensioner and get rid of the hydraulic.

[Matt Devo]

If you're going that far look into converting to manual timing belt tensioner and get rid of the hydraulic.

why, the revised spring-loaded tensioner (Litens) seems like it addresses the weaknesses of both the old hydraulic tensioner as well as the manual ones

[KHARDa4]

why, the revised spring-loaded tensioner (Litens) seems like it addresses the weaknesses of both the old hydraulic tensioner as well as the manual ones

I can't speak for the design of the revised hydraulic tensioner but I opted for a switch because it's one less part to fail. I'm not about to get into a debate about which is better this is just my opinion and gives me a piece of mind in my build so why not share that?

[KHARDa4]

I've seen more big turbo 1.8 cara failing because of a blown hydraulic tensioner than a failed manual timing component.

[805mAc]

beautiful!! what are you going to do when smog season rolls around for her? Bad ass regardless

[AJacksA4]

I maxed out fueling with a set of 630's on a GTRS eliminator because the pump couldn't keep pace. You're going to run short on fuel sooner rather than later and that turbo wants to be at double what you've got it at now.

ninja edit - definitely pin your gear. no reason not to with what you've put into it. Cheap insurance like noted above.

I'll definitely keep an eye on it, if I do a pump upgrade might as well do the return setup while im at it

[AJacksA4]

A forum member pinned the timing gear and he went though catastrophic engine failure, I wouldn't use it. The last time I spoke with Tyler at IE he told me they weren't selling it anymore. The solution and route I went was a FSI press fit timing gear with ARP crank bolt, 6 bolt to fluid dampener. This the only route I would take.

If you're going that far look into converting to manual timing belt tensioner and get rid of the hydraulic.

Yeah I was eyeing the press-fit gear they sell. The price is what gets me though. Dowel pinning it is cheap insurance, but the press fit style aint cheap no mo. Do you remember who had the failure and if it was infact caused by the timing gear shearing?

[AJacksA4]

beautiful!! what are you going to do when smog season rolls around for her? Bad ass regardless

I may know a guy

Now I have two cars running catless... luckily the RS is just a simple DP swap. No biggie

[AJacksA4]

Drove the car out to see this beautiful sunset in Bolinas




Air filter came today, man for a K&N it feels nice!

[KHARDa4]

Yeah I was eyeing the press-fit gear they sell. The price is what gets me though. Dowel pinning it is cheap insurance, but the press fit style aint cheap no mo. Do you remember who had the failure and if it was infact caused by the timing gear shearing?

Yes that is exactly what happened. As to who it was, I know the guy in person who is also a member and if he hasn't put his engine failure info on the forum I'm not about to do so. He also was running less power than your goals. His setup was a hybrid k04 on 93 w/ meth.

[805mAc]

I may know a guy

Now I have two cars running catless... luckily the RS is just a simple DP swap. No biggie

Only time in my life I'll ever say I need to go guy shopping ... All the smog techs here think they are Leo's for the Dmv.
Digging the build, nice work

[mrdoofer04]

I've seen more big turbo 1.8 cara failing because of a blown hydraulic tensioner than a failed manual timing component.

Started following this as I am building an stroker to be paired with a 3071r as well. Question on manual tensioner. Considering that the tension is applied manually and I’m told that belts can stretch over time, is it recommended to go in adjust tension at a certain mileage? I am going to be running the IE manual tensioned kit myself.


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[KHARDa4]

Started following this as I am building an stroker to be paired with a 3071r as well. Question on manual tensioner. Considering that the tension is applied manually and I’m told that belts can stretch over time, is it recommended to go in adjust tension at a certain mileage? I am going to be running the IE manual tensioned kit myself.


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Timing belts are designed in such a way they aren't supposed to stretch, do they? For sure a little I would think so. Is it enough to jump time, probably not I have never seen one. I would think the belt would snap before it would stretch. If it did stretch enough to require adjustment I would just replace it. Integrated doesn't state tension would have to be adjusted at a certain mileage but hey if it makes you feel better to put it in service position to flex the belt and see tension then that's up to you. It should last to its next timing belt interval. I have about 8k miles on the current belt since I put the car together. My built head will be going on soon so before I take timing apart I will see if I notice any sort of streching.

[mrdoofer04]

Timing belts are designed in such a way they aren't supposed to stretch, do they? For sure a little I would think so. Is it enough to jump time, probably not I have never seen one. I would think the belt would snap before it would stretch. If it did stretch enough to require adjustment I would just replace it. Integrated doesn't state tension would have to be adjusted at a certain mileage but hey if it makes you feel better to put it in service position to flex the belt and see tension then that's up to you. It should last to its next timing belt interval. I have about 8k miles on the current belt since I put the car together. My built head will be going on soon so before I take timing apart I will see if I notice any sort of streching.

Interesting. I guess it all makes sense. Probably over thinking it all but figured it’s better to than not at all.


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