Spark plug change DIY

[rpmulli]

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Stupid question.. what thread size is in the 4.0t?


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[OlyS6]

No idea- I have been using 35nm of torque without issue (thus far). I’ve helped with about 5 different spark plug changes on the 4T at this point, primarily with the newer OEM recommended NGK plugs


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[Valpo A7]

I have been driving for almost 35 years now, been helping dad work on cars longer than that. I think we have only paid attention to spark plug torque twice now.

My inch-lb torque wrench does not go up high enough in its setting for the 20-30 nm and my ft-lb torque wrench starts at 25 ft-lbs. Factory recommended torque falls between them and I don't feel like buying another torque wrench.

Tight plus a bit more normally works perfectly.

[DoItAllGarage]

No idea- I have been using 35nm of torque without issue (thus far). I’ve helped with about 5 different spark plug changes on the 4T at this point, primarily with the newer OEM recommended NGK plugs


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Yup, that's the correct one.20190404_200831.jpeg

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[SleekS7]

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Stupid question.. what thread size is in the 4.0t?


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Assuming you are asking for the spark plugs...

Thread Size: 14mm
Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
Reach: 26.5mm (1.04")
Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm)


Not sure why others answered how much to tighten

[rpmulli]

Assuming you are asking for the spark plugs...

Thread Size: 14mm
Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
Reach: 26.5mm (1.04")
Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm)


Not sure why others answered how much to tighten

Perfect, thanks!


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[jobu72]

I just did this job on my new to me 2014 S6 with 65,000 miles. I know it calls for it at 75,000, but I was having some stuttering/hesitation sometimes under heavy acceleration when getting on the highway in the mornings, so figure this would be a good start. Pulled out ones marked VW AG 079905626G "made in france" (maybe they were the Beru?). I used NGK 06K905601M gapped at 0.26".

I am here to add a few more notes to hopefully help others go more smoothly.

The passenger side is very easy. I do recommend taking out the "snorkel thing" that connects to the front grill. I also opted to disconnect a ground wire (easy to see) and another small wire harness (also easy to see) that goes to the front. It just makes for a bit more room to manipulate the wiring rail out of the way.

The driver side was significantly more difficult as there is less space to work in and many more vacuum and coolant lines and such. I wasted more time trying to do it without removing the coolant reservoir than was necessary. Just remove it. So much easier. It takes another five minutes to drain it with a turkey baster. I did not remove any vacuum lines.

I did also want to mention more specifically how to remove all the clips with the gray tabs. It helps to use very small pliers the wiggle it loose, kind of break it free so to speak, then pull it straight out a couple millimeters, then squeeze it and pull the plug at the same time.

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[IowaRS7]

Just did this change tonight myself as well!! Did not remove the coolant tank and yes it was a pain in the a$$. Got it done though with the right mix of extensions and other bits. What was interesting is a couple of my plugs were quite loose. Didn’t even need the ratchet as they just came out very easily. Glad I swapped them! With big turbos though I am gapped down around 0.020-0.022.


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[09S5]

Thanks for all the pertinent information on this task.

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[chosen1]

Going to replace my plugs again tomorrow (got new set of NGK r plugs for nice price, eventough i had only recently installed "M" plugs).
The only thing that bugged me and made it bit hard where the vacum lines that go inside/over the coils. Anybody an idea how you can ealy detach the vacum lines. On each side there is a connector, but those were very hard to pull out each other (couldn't get one open so i stopped trying because i got scared breaking them or not able to get them together).
Any help would be appreciated as having those out of the way, would make the job much easier!

I used a hook shaped dental type pic to slide in between the hose and the plastic tube to break the glue like grip it had. I did clip the very sharp point off my pick and then used a file to smooth it. The point was extremely sharp and wouldve gone thru the side of the rubber easily before being modified. After I inserted the pic I worked it around the entire mated surface and was able to disconnect the two with out fear of breaking the tube or tearing the rubber hose.

[SlickMachine]

I changed out my plugs and coil packs today - yeah this was a bit of ass pain for sure. Took me about 3 hours, including the time I spent staring into the engine compartment trying to talk myself out of doing this one. I did not remove the coolant tank, just unbolt and unplug and you can move it around. Drivers side is difficult, and I recommend starting there for mental health reasons because passenger side is a cake walk in comparison. I would highly recommend changing out your coil packs while doing plugs if you're still on the originals given the difficulty of this job. I went with APR coil packs. I would submit that a swivel head spark plug socket is a must- it is unlikely you will be able to get to the spark plug straight-on because of that friggin wire loom. I used a magnetic reach/grabber tool as well just to be sure I didn't drop any of the coil pack bolts, which would ruin your day, especially on the driver's side. My plugs had 46k miles on them and they were quite difficult to break free from the cylinder head - as in I had to use my largest ratchet and really give it hell. Yikes. Don't be afraid to unclip lots of wire harnesses to free up that loom. Medium level of difficulty.

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[chefred112]

I just did the plugs on my A6/C7.5. (Installed NGK 4554's)... Although I did some research on this I'm not sure why people are draining coolant. Once you unscrew the torx screw holding reservoir to bracket and then removing that bracket (held by 2 torx screws), the reservoir can be easily moved out of way to get access to the driverside coil packs and spark plugs. Its almost easier or just as easy to do driver side as it is to do passenger side. I have an IE intake so I didn't have to move anything to do passenger side. All in all it only took me about 30 minutes or so. Went so quick I forgot to take pics

Also, been working on cars since the 70's so it's a feel thing for me. I don't ever recall using a tq wrench on spark plugs.....on head bolts yes, on crank bolt yes....

[caelric]

little necrothreading here: is there a reason to change out coil packs when doing plugs, and if so, is there a reason to get aftermark 'performance' coil packs instead of OEM?

[Valpo A7]

I am at 230k miles on my original coils for my A7 so unless you have a bad coil there is no need to change them when you do plugs.

[caelric]

I am at 230k miles on my original coils for my A7 so unless you have a bad coil there is no need to change them when you do plugs.

thanks!

[Alabama]

little necrothreading here: is there a reason to change out coil packs when doing plugs, and if so, is there a reason to get aftermark 'performance' coil packs instead of OEM?

This was a post from an AZ sponsor about its aftermarket coil packs: More spark energy give you a stronger spark and more complete burn. This can help clear up misfires and allow for a wider gap (which may be necessary depending on your setup). They come in multiple colors for cosmetic reasons, and are priced appropriate making them an excellent upgrade when your factory ones fail.