Spark plug change DIY

[OlyS6]

Thought I'd add this as a DIY since some folks seem to be going through this now.


Tools:

Torx screwdriver or bits for your wrench- primarily T25.
Small flat head screwdriver (for undoing some clips on the coolant reservoir)
Coil pack puller (Amazon has one made by Koch tools, KT20458, for $45)
Spark plugs- either OEM, or for those tuning their cars, you can also get 8 Denso (5346) IKH24 Iridium Power Spark plugs on Amazon for $70. These are one heat range colder than the OEM plugs.
Finally, it is handy to have a longer magnetic spark plug wrench adapter (I like the Ares 70045) that can go right onto your torque wrench. Amazon has it for $17.


Driver's side:
First, remove the torx bolts holding the coolant reservoir into place.
While you don't HAVE to completely remove the coolant reservoir, (there is enough 'play' in the hose that it is connected to that will allow for it to be simply pushed out of the way), if you want to remove it, there is a metal clip at the neck of the hose adapter that it is sitting in. Use a small screwdriver to pop off that clip (being careful not to lose it in the bowels of the engine), then you can take the coolant tank off of the hose and give you plenty of room to work. You don't need to drain all of the coolant from the system- you can siphon out the coolant from the reservoir, and you can also stop up the 2 lines going to the reservoir with some saran wrap and rubber bands. They pull out of the reservoir easily once you use a small screwdriver to gently lift up on the clips that are holding them in place.

There are 2 T-25 torx bolts holding the long plastic wire guide in place on either end. The small electrical connectors along the top with the gray tabs are easy- just pull the gray tabs to the 'out' position, and then press them towards their connector/cable, and they pull right out. The larger electrical connectors for the coil packs themselves have tabs that you can push in with a small screwdriver while pulling down on the connectors, and they come right out.

You don't need to completely remove the wire guide rail that covers the coil packs, you just need to be able to push it out of the way. There are also T-25 bolts holding each of the coil packs in place. Once you remove these, you can either gently pull on the coil packs to remove them, or you can use the coil pack pulling tool to do so.

While you CAN pull out the coils by hand, you need to be careful to provide steady and even pressure. It is not too hard to rip the top of the coil packs off of the rubber insulation tubes that go down to the spark plugs. The coil pack puller tool allows you to apply even pressure to the center of the coil packs to minimize the chance of damaging the packs. Some of them can actually be quite difficult to pull out without damaging, as Audi uses a silicone based sealant at the bottom of the rubber tubes to help ensure complete insulation of the spark plugs.


Once the coil packs are removed, go ahead and remove the spark plugs. When you place your new plugs, the torque specification from Audi is for 30nm.

Be sure to use either a diaelectric grease or silicone paste at the tips of your coil pack tubes to provide the best insulation you can for your spark plugs. When you replace, them, apply gentle but firm pressure by HAND to reseat them. The torque specifications for replacing the torx bolts is 9 nm.

Make sure you get all the electrical connections back into place. For the smaller ones with the gray clips, once you attach them, make sure you push the gray clips back down to the 'in' position.

The passenger side is a bit easier, as you can simply undo the hoses between your airbox and turbo inlets and remove the entire airbox by hand without any other tools.
The long plastic wire guide rail is also held in by 2 bolts on this side. The exact same electrical connections need to be removed as they were on the driver's side. All the other procedures from the driver's side apply.

Good luck! I'll try to add some pics to this post soon as well.

[SPC4S4]

Thanks for the write-up, I'll be changing mine soon.

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[Chris Morales]

A long overdue write-up. Wish I had one to rely on when I did this last weekend. So many broken clips, connectors, and other bits of plastic.

[16AudiS6]

Can’t wait to get started on this and the turbo swap when I get back!

[SleekS7]

Great write up! Quick question, did you notice or can you take a look at your old plugs to see if Audi marks the tops of the plugs with a colored dot to signal they are the original plugs like some other manufacturers? I'm assuming this is the first change of spark plugs in your S6 since it's a 2016.

Thanks

[OlyS6]

Great write up! Quick question, did you notice or can you take a look at your old plugs to see if Audi marks the tops of the plugs with a colored dot to signal they are the original plugs like some other manufacturers? I'm assuming this is the first change of spark plugs in your S6 since it's a 2016.

Thanks

No special markings that I can see on my old plugs, and yes, this was the first change of spark plugs on my S6.

[Dasquade]

Going to replace my plugs again tomorrow (got new set of NGK r plugs for nice price, eventough i had only recently installed "M" plugs).
The only thing that bugged me and made it bit hard where the vacum lines that go inside/over the coils. Anybody an idea how you can ealy detach the vacum lines. On each side there is a connector, but those were very hard to pull out each other (couldn't get one open so i stopped trying because i got scared breaking them or not able to get them together).
Any help would be appreciated as having those out of the way, would make the job much easier!

[nefkntym]

You just pull them out of the rubber coupler/connector. They are in there pretty good.

[elptxjc]

Hey Oly, do you remember how many screws you removed for the airbox to be pulled out? I can only see 1, but doubt there's just 1. I'd like to know how many to make sure airbox can be pulled out safely. Also, how hard do you need to pull? Curious if the rubber 'guides' have a lot of friction or not. I noticed the intake part (where the filter is) turns like 1/8-turn once the 2 hoses were loosened, correct? Maybe there're other screws/bolts inside the box once filter is removed. Just wanted clarification when the time comes. Thanks.

[Dasquade]

Hey Oly, do you remember how many screws you removed for the airbox to be pulled out? I can only see 1, but doubt there's just 1. I'd like to know how many to make sure airbox can be pulled out safely. Also, how hard do you need to pull? Curious if the rubber 'guides' have a lot of friction or not. I noticed the intake part (where the filter is) turns like 1/8-turn once the 2 hoses were loosened, correct? Maybe there're other screws/bolts inside the box once filter is removed. Just wanted clarification when the time comes. Thanks.

Unbolt the 2 'straps' of the intake tubes, slide then back same for the plastic hoses. Pull back the 'lock' clip of the airfilter snorkel and turn upwards, then slide the snorkel out and filter out. Remove the plastic cover on top/behind the front grill and unbolt the 2 'hidden' torx bolts that hold the airduct piece. You could detach the airduct for box but should be able to pull carefully everything upward. The airbox itself is not bolted but sits in place with 3 taps (into a rubber tube). 1 upper near fender, 2 in line with engine below.
I found it best to make sure the rubbers are on the chasis instead of on the airbox. Might want to put little bit of oil on the rubber before you put back in so they slide in better and don't get bend etc....

[OlyS6]

All the above are correct. If you are only removing the airbox temporarily and then putting it back in, there is no need to remove the 'snorkel' that is attached with the longer torx screws to the grille, so it is only simply loosening the clamps on the hoses that go to the airbox. Once you do a quarter turn to remove the lid of the airbox, the airbox itself you can simply 'pull' upwards and out.

Helpful tip- examine the rubber grommets and their plastic inserts closely before you put the airbox back in. It is WAY SIMPLER to start the airbox re-install with the rubber grommets with their plastic inserts ALREADY ON THE BOX. A tiny bit of silicone spray on the rubber grommets will help you seat the entire assemply back into their round circular holes in the frame rail and the engine bay.

[mrb5_supra_wrx]

Can we get pics on this?

[mariokart]

Great write up. Will do this this weekend. Getting a misfire on cylinder 5 stage 2 rs7


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[OlyS6]

Can we get pics on this?

Apologies- I seem to have deleted most of the relevant pics for this.


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[SleekS7]

Finally changed my plugs this weekend and took longer than I thought, but wasn't too bad. About 8 hours total, a few hours worth figuring things out as I went and another hour fixing a hose and trying to find a lost screw.

Special thanks to OlyS6 for starting this thread.

My contribution to the thread:

Definitely drain and remove the coolant tank. Takes all about 15 mins with the easy connect clips and you gain soo much more room to work.

Disconnect the vacuum lines if you can, I wasn't able to, but if you do, it'll make it easier to push the wiring harness out of the way.

On the drivers side wiring harness, there's a double nut bolt (8mm or 10mm) in the middle under the two O2 sensor connectors. Slide the connectors off the plastic holder, then you can pull off the plastic holder from the double nut bolt.

Be careful with the small hard plastic coolant lines, they become brittle with heat and age. I cracked the longer left one when I accidentally pressed against it reinstalling the coolant tank. I would consider these maintainence items as the other plastic line cracked on me on the road last year. Replacement OEM pipes are about $30 each.

If you pull off the coil pack from the rubber boot, don't worry, just pop it back on and it'll be fine. Had this happen to one and thought I fucked up the boot with it stuck in the plug hole. Pushed the coil head back on and pulled on it with even pressure to get the boot out. Coil pack is working fine after reinstall.

Pictures below:

My temporary replacement hose for the one I cracked
0514181834.jpeg

If you accidentally detached the boot from the coil pack where my thumb is, just press them back together
IMG-ed2d4105af27e02f79bc4ef43c66dba7-V.jpeg

Installed O2 connector holder on the double nut bolt (directly over the 2nd right coil pack)
IMG-7eb6da155c497b93df851e475a591e4a-V.jpeg

O2 connectors unplugged, holder removed and double nut bolt removed
IMG-91816ad8e7c2721ef4ebcb5f510cf581-V.jpeg

Passenger side, not much to note
IMG-14bc2df276bcb849a409a2a2da08d3ff-V.jpeg

Random driver side picture
IMG-41b3b1c046c78817198a0a33fb06082a-V.jpeg

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[Phantom75]

Man that's an engine that definitely needs a cover. What a mess. Thanks for the write up I may try and do this on my own!

[1975audi]

OlyS6, did you do this for general maintenance or did you have misfire issues.
I in the mits of changing out my turbos due to failure and figured this might be a good chance to replace the coils and plugs.
I did have misfire on cylinder 5 issues right before the turbos went out on me

[nefkntym]

He did plugs as part of his Stage 3 turbo upgrade. I did a spark plug change in December when I was doing my turbo upgrade as well.

[elptxjc]

Question on the coolant reservoir. Unless there's a plug under it, there's no need to drain it, no? Only the lower clamp could seep a little if reservoir is inclined to the front, but both can be capped with vacuum plugs or something that fits. Just curious. Thx.

[SleekS7]

Question on the coolant reservoir. Unless there's a plug under it, there's no need to drain it, no? Only the lower clamp could seep a little if reservoir is inclined to the front, but both can be capped with vacuum plugs or something that fits. Just curious. Thx.

There's a larger hose connected to the bottom of the reservoir presumably going to the radiator(I didn't check), you can't remove the reservoir without disconnecting this hose. And if you don't drain before disconnecting this hose, you're going to have a big mess , I also siphoned some coolant out of this hose so it wouldn't splash around later.

[elptxjc]

Okay, so it needs to be drained. Thx. Can you suck all fluid from the fill cap? Most reservoirs have a screen you pretty much have to break to get past an inch or so. But even after doing that, you can't get to the bottom of it. That's typically the case with brake fluid too. You can only suck so much. But yes, I wouldn't even attempt to replace spark plugs with that crap in place.

[1975audi]

He did plugs as part of his Stage 3 turbo upgrade. I did spark plug change in December when I was doing my turbo upgrade as well.

Unitronic states to change the plugs to rs6 plugs for stage 3.
I just checked ecs and the S6 and RS7 share the same plugs.
What do you guys recommend?
I had a misfire on cylinder 5 before my turbos blew, would this be a proactive thing to do since I'm already there

[nefkntym]

We went with Denso Iridiums, IKH24

[OlyS6]

Yep, the Denso IKH24's are one heat range colder than the stock plugs for our cars, and are recommended by APR when going to higher power levels. As for the coolant reservoir, there is a fair bit of 'play' in the hose leading up to it, enough so that you can a bit more easily turn the reservoir on it's side and siphon 'most' of the coolant out of it. If you have access to an airlifter that you can attach to an air pump, you can suction nearly all of the coolant out of the system, and then refill it without introducing air bubbles into the system. You can find them for about $100 on Amazon. Saves a ton of work. But yes, I agree, removing the reservoir entirely makes life much easier for the spark plug change, although there is technically enough 'play' in the hose to allow you push the reservoir out of the way a bit and not remove it. And as nefkntym said, would definitely swap out plugs if going to Stage 3 power levels, and then APR recommends every 17k miles thereafter, rather than the factory recommended 35K miles.

[SleekS7]

Okay, so it needs to be drained. Thx. Can you suck all fluid from the fill cap? Most reservoirs have a screen you pretty much have to break to get past an inch or so. But even after doing that, you can't get to the bottom of it. That's typically the case with brake fluid too. You can only suck so much. But yes, I wouldn't even attempt to replace spark plugs with that crap in place.

Yes, that's how I did it. But once you think it's drained, shake the tank and drain some more, then again, and again to get it all out. Like someone else mentioned before, the tank is like a labyrinth and some coolant always seems to remain...

[low-profile]

IMG_7337.JPG
I left mine attached to the bottom hose and just shifted it forward when I was ready to work on the plugs near the firewall.
Either method works.


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[SleekS7]

Yep, the Denso IKH24's are one heat range colder than the stock plugs for our cars, and are recommended by APR when going to higher power levels.

This is technically incorrect. it's 1 step colder and recommended for the OE heat range 7 plugs in the 2.0/2.5 (GTI, Golf R, S3, TT, RS3, etc) engines. IKH24 is actually OEM equivalent for 4.0T. I did a lot of research on this and was going to go with the IKH24 plugs until I started reading about longevity (lasting <10K miles with an expected service life of about 15K) on the 2.0/2.5 forums. This thread https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27809, especially post #7 response from HSTuning comparing the OEM NGK to IKH24 swayed me to go with the latest OEM plugs by NGK part # 06K-905-601-M.
You don't have to believe me, please search the NGK part # and you will find a lot of threads and VAG shops like ECS, USP, HSTuning, etc. listing them as 1 step colder for the same 2.0/2.5 engines. Both plugs are heat range 8 and the OEM NGKs are only $100 shipped from audiusaparts.com, so almost the same price as the Densos and should be longer service life!

Also for what it's worth, APR's website doesn't mention any recommendations for the 4.0T and actually recommends a much more expensive ($40ea!) heat range 9 racing plug for the 2.0/2.5 engines going stage 1+. https://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_u...en3_mqb_r.html

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-denso-pa...ach/ikh24~den/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/06k905601m/

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engin...46KT-7562.html
https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engin...905-16342.html

https://www.hstuning.com/product_inf...oducts_id=4892
https://www.hstuning.com/product_inf...oducts_id=5686

[OlyS6]

This is technically incorrect. it's 1 step colder and recommended for the OE heat range 7 plugs in the 2.0/2.5 (GTI, Golf R, S3, TT, RS3, etc) engines. IKH24 is actually OEM equivalent for 4.0T. I did a lot of research on this and was going to go with the IKH24 plugs until I started reading about longevity (lasting <10K miles with an expected service life of about 15K) on the 2.0/2.5 forums. This thread https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27809, especially post #7 response from HSTuning comparing the OEM NGK to IKH24 swayed me to go with the latest OEM plugs by NGK part # 06K-905-601-M.
You don't have to believe me, please search the NGK part # and you will find a lot of threads and VAG shops like ECS, USP, HSTuning, etc. listing them as 1 step colder for the same 2.0/2.5 engines. Both plugs are heat range 8 and the OEM NGKs are only $100 shipped from audiusaparts.com, so almost the same price as the Densos and should be longer service life!

Also for what it's worth, APR's website doesn't mention any recommendations for the 4.0T and actually recommends a much more expensive ($40ea!) heat range 9 racing plug for the 2.0/2.5 engines going stage 1+. https://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_u...en3_mqb_r.html

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-denso-pa...ach/ikh24~den/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/06k905601m/

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engin...46KT-7562.html
https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engin...905-16342.html

https://www.hstuning.com/product_inf...oducts_id=4892
https://www.hstuning.com/product_inf...oducts_id=5686

Nice- always willing to learn something new, esp if it will hep improve the longevity and or performance of our cars. I know APR has listed IKH24s as their recommended plug for the 4.0T in the past, and they've personally told me to use it for my car when I was doing my research. Sounds like others are also going with the current RS7 and S8 plugs, with the same part number you mentioned. I may very well switch to them in a few thousand miles, especially if I see an uptick in the rate of my misfires. Just an annoying procedure on our cars.

[nefkntym]

I will probably swap in S8 plugs when I am doing my oil change in a few thousand miles. Also for me with the IKH24s, I called and talked to APR directly in December when I was doing my stage 3 install and that was the plug they said to use and as stated above, it is an annoying procedure on our cars.

[SleekS7]

You guys do know that the RS7 and S8 use the same plugs as S6 and S7 right? So when you say you're swapping to RS7 or S8 plugs, you're basically just installing OEM S6/S7 plugs

Just make sure you order the NGK part # I listed, it superseded the Beru 079-905-626-G/M plugs towards the end of 2016 for all 4.0T.

[nefkntym]

079-905-626-G/M was the standard plug for the 4.0T until it changed for the S8 on 08/29/2016, the new plug for the S8 was 06K-905-601-M. After that the other cars started adapting the S8 plugs. Similar to the current RS7 turbos are actually the new S8+ turbos.

[SleekS7]

Standard for all 4.0T engines, and when Audi changed from Beru to NGK, they changed it for all 4.0T engines simultaneously since they always used the same plugs. No one at Audi "adapted" S8 plugs to the RS7, S7, S6

Anyway, back on topic, NGK 06K-905-601-M > Denso IKH24

[nefkntym]

Standard for all 4.0T engines, and when Audi changed from Beru to NGK, they changed it for all 4.0T engines simultaneously since they always used the same plugs. No one at Audi "adapted" S8 plugs to the RS7, S7, S6

Anyway, back on topic, NGK 06K-905-601-M > Denso IKH24

You do realize I am agreeing with you. No need to be cock about it.

[OlyS6]

If the NGK 06K-905-601-M plugs are the standard plugs for the 4.0T platform, shouldn't those of us trying to run higher power levels be looking for a plug that runs a step colder than standard?

[SleekS7]

You do realize I am agreeing with you. No need to be cock about it.

If the NGK 06K-905-601-M plugs are the standard plugs for the 4.0T platform, shouldn't those of us trying to run higher power levels be looking for a plug that runs a step colder than standard?

I would say yes for you guys already stage 3. You'll have to cross reference heat range 9 plugs or go with the $40 NGK-R7437-9 racing plugs. Denso equivalents are IKH27. Also, proper tuning is much more important vs colder plugs IMHO. You'll also have to keep in mind colder plugs may foul faster if you aren't driving it "hard" often enough, leading to more misfires, etc.
For us lowly stage 2< guys, the OEM plugs should be fine considering the OEM plugs are used in 4.0T engines rated from 420 to 605HP (usually underrated).

[dudley123]

I cannot seem to get the vacuum lines disconnected that run through the plastic wire guides! pulling my hair out. Coolant reservoir is out, struggling with several clips.

any tricks to removign vacuum lines without damaging them!?

Chris

[rhinoboymtl]

I cannot seem to get the vacuum lines disconnected that run through the plastic wire guides! pulling my hair out. Coolant reservoir is out, struggling with several clips.

any tricks to removign vacuum lines without damaging them!?

Chris

I’ve done my plugs twice now and didn’t remove the coolant reservoir nor the vacuum lines. It’s not as easy to get in there but it’s possible.

[mike0819]

Thought I'd add this as a DIY since some folks seem to be going through this now.


Tools:

Torx screwdriver or bits for your wrench- primarily T25.
Small flat head screwdriver (for undoing some clips on the coolant reservoir)
Coil pack puller (Amazon has one made by Koch tools, KT20458, for $45)
Spark plugs- either OEM, or for those tuning their cars, you can also get 8 Denso (5346) IKH24 Iridium Power Spark plugs on Amazon for $70. These are one heat range colder than the OEM plugs.
Finally, it is handy to have a longer magnetic spark plug wrench adapter (I like the Ares 70045) that can go right onto your torque wrench. Amazon has it for $17.


Driver's side:
First, remove the torx bolts holding the coolant reservoir into place.
While you don't HAVE to completely remove the coolant reservoir, (there is enough 'play' in the hose that it is connected to that will allow for it to be simply pushed out of the way), if you want to remove it, there is a metal clip at the neck of the hose adapter that it is sitting in. Use a small screwdriver to pop off that clip (being careful not to lose it in the bowels of the engine), then you can take the coolant tank off of the hose and give you plenty of room to work. You don't need to drain all of the coolant from the system- you can siphon out the coolant from the reservoir, and you can also stop up the 2 lines going to the reservoir with some saran wrap and rubber bands. They pull out of the reservoir easily once you use a small screwdriver to gently lift up on the clips that are holding them in place.

There are 2 T-25 torx bolts holding the long plastic wire guide in place on either end. The small electrical connectors along the top with the gray tabs are easy- just pull the gray tabs to the 'out' position, and then press them towards their connector/cable, and they pull right out. The larger electrical connectors for the coil packs themselves have tabs that you can push in with a small screwdriver while pulling down on the connectors, and they come right out.

You don't need to completely remove the wire guide rail that covers the coil packs, you just need to be able to push it out of the way. There are also T-25 bolts holding each of the coil packs in place. Once you remove these, you can either gently pull on the coil packs to remove them, or you can use the coil pack pulling tool to do so.

While you CAN pull out the coils by hand, you need to be careful to provide steady and even pressure. It is not too hard to rip the top of the coil packs off of the rubber insulation tubes that go down to the spark plugs. The coil pack puller tool allows you to apply even pressure to the center of the coil packs to minimize the chance of damaging the packs. Some of them can actually be quite difficult to pull out without damaging, as Audi uses a silicone based sealant at the bottom of the rubber tubes to help ensure complete insulation of the spark plugs.


Once the coil packs are removed, go ahead and remove the spark plugs. When you place your new plugs, the torque specification from Audi is for 30nm.

Be sure to use either a diaelectric grease or silicone paste at the tips of your coil pack tubes to provide the best insulation you can for your spark plugs. When you replace, them, apply gentle but firm pressure by HAND to reseat them. The torque specifications for replacing the torx bolts is 9 nm.

Make sure you get all the electrical connections back into place. For the smaller ones with the gray clips, once you attach them, make sure you push the gray clips back down to the 'in' position.

The passenger side is a bit easier, as you can simply undo the hoses between your airbox and turbo inlets and remove the entire airbox by hand without any other tools.
The long plastic wire guide rail is also held in by 2 bolts on this side. The exact same electrical connections need to be removed as they were on the driver's side. All the other procedures from the driver's side apply.

Good luck! I'll try to add some pics to this post soon as well.

Hi can you tell me what is the correct spark plug gap for 2012 audi a7 3.0 tfsi, mine will run a single pulley tune, do I gap it differently than standard?

[Street Nasty]

Hi can you tell me what is the correct spark plug gap for 2012 audi a7 3.0 tfsi, mine will run a single pulley tune, do I gap it differently than standard?

You should ask your tuner.


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[DoItAllGarage]

@OlyS6 thanks for the write up. I just ordered some NGK 06K-905-601-M and will install them while doing the oil strainer repair.

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