5w30 Safe Engine Oil in Hot Climates???

[RacePace]

Good day all,
Being a new owner of a 2008 A4 2.7TDI there are many questions I have on the car.

Foremost being the viscosity of oil that should be used in the summer months of Australia where most days can get to 35-40+ degrees Celsius.

Now if I go with what the manufacturer which recommends 5w30 wouldn't this put me beyond the oils safe operating temperature range?

Could someone please advise.

Regards,
J

[Spawne32]

Personally id recommend 5w40, even for cars with 5w30 ratings from the factory.

[RacePace]

Hey Spawen32,
I too was thinking the same and 5w40 has a bigger temp range... but this could also mean that the 40 oil is thicker when it gets to operating temp which could be a bad thing if should it not be a 40 degree day...

[Spawne32]

Hey Spawen32,
I too was thinking the same and 5w40 has a bigger temp range... but this could also mean that the 40 oil is thicker when it gets to operating temp which could be a bad thing if should it not be a 40 degree day...

lol the 40 is not what temp it reaches its full viscosity, 40 is the weight. 5w40 oils, or any oil for that matter, meet the second number listed in viscosity under normal engine operating temperatures. No dangers there. Granted I dont think 5w30 will be an issue either as long as you use a good quality synthetic, and im not talking mobil 1 or over the counter crap they sell in walmart. I'd recommend liquimoly molygen or high tec personally myself but theres many more.

[flowhigh]

Granted I dont think 5w30 will be an issue either as long as you use a good quality synthetic, and im not talking mobil 1 or over the counter crap they sell in walmart. I'd recommend liquimoly molygen or high tec personally myself but theres many more.

Out of curiosity, why is mobile 1 not good quality synthetic? Do you have any ascertainable data? If all the "crap" at Walmart is over the counter what is Liquimoly or High-tec aside from not being sold there? I guess Castrol syntec is crap too.

[RacePace]

lol the 40 is not what temp it reaches its full viscosity, 40 is the weight. 5w40 oils, or any oil for that matter, meet the second number listed in viscosity under normal engine operating temperatures. No dangers there. Granted I dont think 5w30 will be an issue either as long as you use a good quality synthetic, and im not talking mobil 1 or over the counter crap they sell in walmart. I'd recommend liquimoly molygen or high tec personally myself but theres many more.

lol i think i didnt clearly explain. what i mean is the 40 weight oil becomes advantageous on a 40+ degree day right over the 30 weight?

My question is will 40 weight be too viscous/thick on a 20 degree day as opposed to the 30 weight?

Thanks



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[Spawne32]

Out of curiosity, why is mobile 1 not good quality synthetic? Do you have any ascertainable data? If all the "crap" at Walmart is over the counter what is Liquimoly or High-tec aside from not being sold there? I guess Castrol syntec is crap too.

All the independent testing of mobil 1 doesnt put it above any other store brand oil sold on the shelves. While its a fine oil for most daily drivers, ive seen plenty of blackstone lab results of complete breakdown of the oil under extreme conditions. I guess my point really is that, there is alot of hype over mobil 1 being the best on the market that is completely unjustified, especially when compared to other shelf brands. If you have the time to read this, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/ , this is a really good well done test of alot of the major brands out there.

[Spawne32]

lol i think i didnt clearly explain. what i mean is the 40 weight oil becomes advantageous on a 40+ degree day right over the 30 weight?

My question is will 40 weight be too viscous/thick on a 20 degree day as opposed to the 30 weight?

Thanks



Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

You'll have to forgive me im not used to dealing with celcius lol in all honesty I dont think you are in any danger with a 5w30 weight oil, unless you are really dogging on your car in that kinda weather. Even still, most manufacturers will have a severe service drain interval which is usually like half the recommended drain interval under normal conditions. Audi uses 10,000 miles as the standard drain interval, if you are seeing repeated high heat conditions, cut that interval in half, or whatever is recommended in the book. A good quality full synthetic should be up to the task regardless, and if you are questioning the condition of the oil at your current service interval, order a black stone labs test, very simple to do, they send you a catch kit, i think its 25 dollars, you send it in and they send you a data sample.

[Spawne32]

liquimoly, redline, amsoil, motul, id feel safe and sound using any of their full synthetic 5w30 oils in those conditions.

[A4Qwattro]

Out of curiosity, why is mobile 1 not good quality synthetic? Do you have any ascertainable data? If all the "crap" at Walmart is over the counter what is Liquimoly or High-tec aside from not being sold there? I guess Castrol syntec is crap too.

I think he's being a bit of a snob about it....But realistically Mobil 1 or Castrol syntec is good enough. It is not causing any practical issues for a well designed car. If you buy an A8 from the dealer, and let the dealer do oil and filter changes with the Castrol or Quantum LL, every 10,000 miles, there is not really anything meaningfully wrong with the engine at 100,000. The motor is designed to work with any VW502 at a safe margin.

What you tend to find in an enthusiast forum is people spending (or wasting) a bit more money on the cars. Sometimes for meaningful improvement, and other times not so much...Even if you do blackstone analysis etc, and get all the numbers saying Liquimoly or Motul has more wear additives after 5000 miles blah blah blah, it's practically irrelevant.

Just get any VW502 (for gas, NOT the OPs diesel), and do whatever makes you happy. As people who choose to buy Liqui-moly or Motul, etc do whatever makes them happy. I can't argue, I waste money buying Motul. I don't think their is any practical benefit for how long I will keep the car, but it makes me happy lol. Their aren't any rules on how to go about this.

[RacePace]

Thanks all for the replies.

Yes i agree most of us are car enthusiasts to a degree and buying overkill oil on any of my cars helps me sleep better at night lol

So any fully synthetic oil with the vw502 certification will be ok right?

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[Spawne32]

Thanks all for the replies.

Yes i agree most of us are car enthusiasts to a degree and buying overkill oil on any of my cars helps me sleep better at night lol

So any fully synthetic oil with the vw502 certification will be ok right?

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Well, may be snobbish but I find it relevant when you can back up claims that some oils perform better then others with scientific data. Forums tend to be big on opinions, so I think its pretty simple minded of someone to call lab testing snobbish over actual test data. You'd be surprised how some oils break down especially in turbo cars when you expose them to extreme heat, especially when you already have hot conditions outside the car, and then pump that oil through the middle of a blazing hot turbo. It breaks down pretty quickly, ive seen it, but you don't have to take my word for it. Cam wear, journal wear, bearing wear, its all real things that can happen when your oil is consistently being broken down due to heat.

[A4Qwattro]

Well, may be snobbish but I find it relevant when you can back up claims that some oils perform better then others with scientific data. Forums tend to be big on opinions, so I think its pretty simple minded of someone to call lab testing snobbish over actual test data. You'd be surprised how some oils break down especially in turbo cars when you expose them to extreme heat, especially when you already have hot conditions outside the car, and then pump that oil through the middle of a blazing hot turbo. It breaks down pretty quickly, ive seen it, but you don't have to take my word for it. Cam wear, journal wear, bearing wear, its all real things that can happen when your oil is consistently being broken down due to heat.

I think you skipped the point i was trying to make. Lab testing oil is not snobbish. Again, do whatever makes us happy like I said. I'm saying that practically speaking, the difference between what we enthusiast call good oil (Motul, Liquimoly, etc) and what we like to say isn't so good (Mobil 1, dealer castrol) isn't a difference that means the engine will not function properly after 100,000 miles. Actually doing the oil change (with any VW approved oil) at 5,000 miles or 10,000 miles every time is far more important.

What is a litle snobbish, is to suggest that other people need to buy expensive oil, given what I stated above.

[A4Qwattro]

Thanks all for the replies.

Yes i agree most of us are car enthusiasts to a degree and buying overkill oil on any of my cars helps me sleep better at night lol

So any fully synthetic oil with the vw502 certification will be ok right?

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Sorry, I don't know much about the diesel engine. However I think it does require a different VW specification number. VW504, or VW505, or VW507. I don't know which, I tried to look a little.

[Gunnark100]

Sorry, I don't know much about the diesel engine. However I think it does require a different VW specification number. VW504, or VW505, or VW507. I don't know which, I tried to look a little.

Yep you right regarding tdi oil, most of guys over here use 507 as vag recommendation for dpf cars by manual and go down by interval for 6000-7000 miles, but it is so to say personal thing:)

A4 2.7 TDI

LongLife Service VW 506 01, VW 507 00
vehicles with diesel particulate filter*
only VW 507 00
Inspection Service VW 505 00, VW 505 01, VW 506 01,
VW 507 00
vehicles with diesel particulate
filter*: only VW 507 00
Engine oil capacity
(including filter change)
approx. 6.9 litres

[Spawne32]

I think you skipped the point i was trying to make. Lab testing oil is not snobbish. Again, do whatever makes us happy like I said. I'm saying that practically speaking, the difference between what we enthusiast call good oil (Motul, Liquimoly, etc) and what we like to say isn't so good (Mobil 1, dealer castrol) isn't a difference that means the engine will not function properly after 100,000 miles. Actually doing the oil change (with any VW approved oil) at 5,000 miles or 10,000 miles every time is far more important.

What is a litle snobbish, is to suggest that other people need to buy expensive oil, given what I stated above.

I have to disagree with you on the point. No one would call you a snob for buying mobil 1 at your local walmart vs picking up a couple quarts at your local dollar store. It's common sense. The OP clearly wants recommendations based on the fact that hes gonna be running his car in a harsh environment, I don't see why its unreasonable to suggest an oil that would be good for that, even if it is 10 dollars more for the oil change.

[RacePace]

I have to disagree with you on the point. No one would call you a snob for buying mobil 1 at your local walmart vs picking up a couple quarts at your local dollar store. It's common sense. The OP clearly wants recommendations based on the fact that hes gonna be running his car in a harsh environment, I don't see why its unreasonable to suggest an oil that would be good for that, even if it is 10 dollars more for the oil change.

Thanks Gunnark, i do have a dpf. So vw507 it is for me, so much to learn with the new car. I think the 335 is getting jealous lol

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[Gunnark100]

Thanks Gunnark, i do have a dpf. So vw507 it is for me, so much to learn with the new car. I think the 335 is getting jealous lol

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No problem J, generic tech info and vag recommendation always in your owners manual at "the end" of the book!

[A4x]

All the independent testing of mobil 1 doesnt put it above any other store brand oil sold on the shelves. While its a fine oil for most daily drivers, ive seen plenty of blackstone lab results of complete breakdown of the oil under extreme conditions. I guess my point really is that, there is alot of hype over mobil 1 being the best on the market that is completely unjustified, especially when compared to other shelf brands. If you have the time to read this, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/ , this is a really good well done test of alot of the major brands out there.

I am still reading through that blog, but it is interesting that AMSOIL seems to have a much higher film pressure strength than Liqui Moly or Motul.

[bhvrdr]

I am still reading through that blog, but it is interesting that AMSOIL seems to have a much higher film pressure strength than Liqui Moly or Motul.

Take those things with a grain of salt. If you look one of the "best" diesel oils that performed at higher temperatures he tested was a Pennzoil and Castrol Edge right up there with Pentosin and Amsoil. These are all good oils and I very much doubt you will get any real world difference between buying a $15 jug of 5 quarts of Castrol or M1 when on sale from Walmart versus spending $50 for the 5 quarts of Motul Specific, Redline, etc. I used to be a crazy oil person too and have Redline and Motul Specific on my shelf but fully admit it is unnecessary.

Mike

[Audi 4 Life]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383410

highly reccomend anyone wanting to know more about oil read thru this thread.

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[Spawne32]

I am still reading through that blog, but it is interesting that AMSOIL seems to have a much higher film pressure strength than Liqui Moly or Motul.

absolutely, and youll notice there is a pretty wide spread on the rankings even for the mobil oils. ive always found it particularly odd where some of those oils ranked given the real world experience, or even what role the film pressure strength has in a modern engine. do we even reach those kind of pressures? one thing youll notice is that the api sn ranked oils seem to perform the worst where as alot of the euro spec oils do fairly well. i was pleasantly surprised by the pentosin oil results, always wondered about that brand.

[audrobotic]

Good link Audi4Life. What most people dont realize is that the oil brand you use doesnt really matter in the real world. (As long as it meets the mfgs specs). What actually matters is OCI. I tend disagree somewhat with 10k mile OC interval. If youre 100% highway its fine. But direct injection adds a whole other layer of complexity and Ive seen credible sources that say even UOAs dont tell the whole story when it comes to accounting for direct injection. So to sum up my take on oil - use whatever decent oil you want and pick an OCI (5000,7500,10000) depending on your driving and how long you want the car.

[JeriQo]

liquimoly, redline, amsoil, motul, id feel safe and sound using any of their full synthetic 5w30 oils in those conditions.

yo spawne,

im good with these, right? im all stock.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...SABEgJzP_D_BwE

[Spawne32]

yo spawne,

im good with these, right? im all stock.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...SABEgJzP_D_BwE

yeh you should be fine why? i did get better results with the ones JHM recommended, the bosch FR5DTC.

[JeriQo]

yeh you should be fine why? i did get better results with the ones JHM recommended, the bosch FR5DTC.

youre one of the knowledgeable here! just double checking before i hit checkout.
ill go with this since its packaged with the coils.

[Spawne32]

youre one of the knowledgeable here! just double checking before i hit checkout.
ill go with this since its the cheapest.

lol i feel like this is sarcasm

[JeriQo]

lol i feel like this is sarcasm

nah man no sarcasm at all lol even tho you mofos love to give me shit about me not having rear diffs

[Spawne32]

nah man no sarcasm at all lol even tho you mofos love to give me shit about me not having rear diffs

[old guy]

All the independent testing of mobil 1 doesnt put it above any other store brand oil sold on the shelves. While its a fine oil for most daily drivers, ive seen plenty of blackstone lab results of complete breakdown of the oil under extreme conditions. I guess my point really is that, there is alot of hype over mobil 1 being the best on the market that is completely unjustified, especially when compared to other shelf brands. If you have the time to read this, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/ , this is a really good well done test of alot of the major brands out there.

OK. I just spent over two hours reading through the provided link. The writer is extremely verbose and could have presented the information in a different format and it would have been just as effective but the information provided was extremely informative.

I must say I did not expect to find what was presented as some of the top ranked oils for reduced wear. For example the newer Mobil 1 formulation was one of the top rated oils. It was rated 5th out of the 209 oils tested with a wear rating of 127,000 psi.. The earlier version was ranked 116 with a wear rating of 82,000. (The higher the psi rating the better the wear protection)

5. 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, API SN, synthetic = 127,221 psi
This new oil replaces the older version called, 0W40 Mobil 1, European Formula, API SN, synthetic.

An oil that I thought would be highly rated actually fared much further down on the list as mediocre at best.

166. 5W40 Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech Oil, synthetic = 69,580 psi

Here were two more surprises:

135. 5W30 Motul 8100 X-clean, API SM, synthetic = 76,166 psi
This oil is made in France, and comes in a 1 liter bottle, which = 1.05 qts

138. 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (gold bottle) = 74,899 psi

The blog is definately worth taking the time to read and digest.

Cheers!

[Spawne32]

OK. I just spent over two hours reading through the provided link. The writer is extremely verbose and could have presented the information in a different format and it would have been just as effective but the information provided was extremely informative.

I must say I did not expect to find what was presented as some of the top ranked oils for reduced wear. For example the newer Mobil 1 formulation was one of the top rated oils. It was rated 5th out of the 209 oils tested with a wear rating of 127,000 psi.. The earlier version was ranked 116 with a wear rating of 82,000. (The higher the psi rating the better the wear protection)

5. 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, API SN, synthetic = 127,221 psi
This new oil replaces the older version called, 0W40 Mobil 1, European Formula, API SN, synthetic.

An oil that I thought would be highly rated actually fared much further down on the list as mediocre at best.

166. 5W40 Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech Oil, synthetic = 69,580 psi

Here were two more surprises:

135. 5W30 Motul 8100 X-clean, API SM, synthetic = 76,166 psi
This oil is made in France, and comes in a 1 liter bottle, which = 1.05 qts

138. 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (gold bottle) = 74,899 psi

The blog is definately worth taking the time to read and digest.

Cheers!

Interesting stuff isn't it? The european car formula I don't think is available on store shelves at least not locally in my area thats for sure. The 5w30 GM Dexos approved oils I have seen before which ranked in at #11 but the most common shelf oil which was their advanced synthetic came in at #29. What was truly bizarre was how high pennzoil and quaker state ranked on that test. Who would have thought that?

[old guy]

Very interesting stuff! Especially the difference between the various oil viscosities available and how they perform. I have always been a proponent for running a 0w-40 or a 5w-40 with the assumption that the 0w or 5w would be better for a cold start and the 40 would provide better protection when fully up to temperature.

Apparently my assumptions on the cold start viscosity were correct but not at all on the full operating temperature viscosity. Quite a few of the 0w-20 oil formulations provided as much high temperature protection as the -40 oils. It is going to take a while for that to sink into my brain after decades of thinking otherwise.

[bhvrdr]

Interesting stuff isn't it? The european car formula I don't think is available on store shelves at least not locally in my area thats for sure. The 5w30 GM Dexos approved oils I have seen before which ranked in at #11 but the most common shelf oil which was their advanced synthetic came in at #29. What was truly bizarre was how high pennzoil and quaker state ranked on that test. Who would have thought that?

You can get it at Wal-Mart for 5 bucks a quart and then m1 also runs a 12 rebate on 5 quart jugs a few times a year. You get it for under 3 bucks a quart...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0...-5-qt/23636902


Also amazon with free prime shipping but you can't use the m1 rebates on Amazon purchases...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HG...6pL&ref=plSrch

[old guy]

Hi Mike.

Miss ya on the B6 forums. I'm struggling to find the difference between the "old" Mobil 1 formula and the "new" FS formula labeling. I have been searching on google to find the visual difference on the oil label but have yet to be successful. i may be wrong but I think the link you provided is the "old" formula.

I will be sure to post a picture of the new label if I can ever confirm.

cheers!

EDIT: I think you may be correct. I have found several different sites that describe this as the new "FS" formulation.

EDIT the EDIT: I just noticed the "FS" printed on the label. Small but it's there.

[bhvrdr]

Hello there brother. I still miss that darn car

Don't shoot the messenger if I'm wrong but going from memory I seem to remember the older bottles used to just say European formula in small Gold and Green lettering where is the new bottle says European car formula in more prominent lettering

Now that could just be a change in the bottle design too I don't know

[old guy]

Yep. Check my edited edit ;-)

[LTopher]

Good link Audi4Life. What most people dont realize is that the oil brand you use doesnt really matter in the real world. (As long as it meets the mfgs specs). What actually matters is OCI. I tend disagree somewhat with 10k mile OC interval. If youre 100% highway its fine. But direct injection adds a whole other layer of complexity and Ive seen credible sources that say even UOAs dont tell the whole story when it comes to accounting for direct injection. So to sum up my take on oil - use whatever decent oil you want and pick an OCI (5000,7500,10000) depending on your driving and how long you want the car.

^this

I use Mobil 1 (I'll have to check if FS or not) and change it at 5k. If I were to do oil changes at 10k, I'd be much more likely to buy a better quality oil. However, for my use, I don't care if M1 breaks down before the others if I change it out before the breakdown occurs. I have the same thoughts on Fram oil filters (stirring the pot, I know)--they have been shown to not last as long as other brands. I change out the Fram filters before their recommended lifespan and have not had any issues.

As to the OP question, oil brand has no affect on the viscosity or recommended temperatures as long as it meets the correct VAG specs, correct?

[Spawne32]

^this

I use Mobil 1 (I'll have to check if FS or not) and change it at 5k. If I were to do oil changes at 10k, I'd be much more likely to buy a better quality oil. However, for my use, I don't care if M1 breaks down before the others if I change it out before the breakdown occurs. I have the same thoughts on Fram oil filters (stirring the pot, I know)--they have been shown to not last as long as other brands. I change out the Fram filters before their recommended lifespan and have not had any issues.

As to the OP question, oil brand has no affect on the viscosity or recommended temperatures as long as it meets the correct VAG specs, correct?

One thing you have to remember with fram filters is that we know for a fact that they are poorly manufactured, all you have to do is open them up. I tell people all the time, if your ok with having a cardboard oil filter in your car, thats fine, by all means do what you do, but I wont risk it, especially after seeing them come apart in race engines.

[audi bug]

from 540Rat.....

" IT’S WORTH REPEATING THAT SOME KEY POINTS TO KEEP IN MIND ABOUT THIS TESTING ARE:

The psi reference values above, ONLY APPLY TO MY TEST DATA, not to actual engine component loading. Here’s why:
The motor oil “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load” I perform is WORST CASE torture testing. My test equipment is NOT intended to duplicate an engine’s internal components. On the contrary, the test equipment is specifically designed to generate severe loading, that will quickly cause an oil to reach its failure point, in order to determine what its capability limit it is. The test loading is severe enough, that the wear scar size that forms, based on an oil’s load carrying capability (the wear scar is what is measured), has stabilized at its final size by the conclusion of a 30 second load test. Procedure development testing showed that more time than that did not change the wear scar size. Every oil I test is brought to its failure point, that’s how it works. The difference in the failure points, is what we compare. My testing subjects the oil to far more severe loading than even the most wicked flat tappet race engine could ever generate.

.
But, a running engine is designed to last indefinitely, and of course, they do not generally cause an oil to reach its failure point. So, due to the COMPLETE DIFFERENCE in design, the pressures in my test are completely different, and therefore CANNOT be compared directly to an engine’s lobe/lifter interface pressure. That would be comparing apples to oranges, which makes absolutely no sense at all. My testing is so severe, that the oil fails at a much earlier point than it would in an engine. And that is why my test data psi values appear lower than you might expect to see in some running engines.

........

All the oils tested here were brand new oils. But, I’ve also “wear tested” a number of those oils, both synthetic and conventional, when they were used with 5,000 miles on them. And in every case, even though those oils had been subjected to heat and stress over a significant length of time, there was NO REDUCTION what so ever, in wear protection capability, even though the zinc levels had dropped by around 25% on average. So, this is even further proof that the zinc level is not tied to a motor oil’s wear protection capability, as well as absolute proof and validation that testing new oils is representative of what we can expect from those oils as they accumulate time and miles on them.

.
I’m a Mechanical Engineer. Mechanical Design Engineering is what I do for a living. And a Mechanical Engineer is clearly the most qualified Engineer to test motor oil that was formulated by Chemical Engineers, for wear protection capability between mechanical components under load.

.
And again, most important of all, is at the end of the day, my test data EXACTLY MATCHES real world race track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance street experience, which PROVES once and for all, that my test data is the spot on REAL DEAL. This completely confirms that my test results WILL ACCURATELY PREDICT what we can expect from motor oils in running engines on the track, during flat tappet or roller break-in, or on the street, EVEN if those oils are high zinc oil. It also bears repeating, that all the data here was determined by the Physics and Chemistry involved. It is NOT my opinion, and it is NOT my theory. It is the Science that tells us what is going on with motor oils. And no one can argue with Physics and Chemistry. So, that should be more than enough proof to satisfy anyone who was skeptical of how well my test data compares to the real world."

I read above and shaked my head.
I am an engineer myself and one time in my career did lot of mechanical testing as living. There is no such thing as a test set-up that EXACTLY MATCHES real world situation.
Engineer will refrain from stating that. If I had that kind of test machine, I will be selling my service to motor oil companies or work for them and propose new ASME test by writing SAE technical papers.
He states his test set-up doesn't duplicate engine internal pressure, but claims it matches the real world engine experience EXACTLY.
There is no single scientific research paper quoted. There is no single graph showing how his numbers match with real world engine usage, but he claims it EXACTLY matches.
He is measuring wear scars but magically converting them to magic PSI numbers ranging from 136,658 to 47,483 down to single digit accuracy.
He doesn't understand how ZDDP works [hence why used oil (>3000 miles) is better for engine wear than new oil] and used that argument to state that ZDDP level has no relationship to wear protection.

I stick with 10k miles OCI and do oil UOA to make sure oil is good with that OCI.

I will leave with a couple of research papers as reference.
Full text may not not be freely available.

1. Automobile engine tribology — approaching the surface M. Priest, C.M. Taylor, Wear 241 (2000) 193–203
2. Raman Characterization of Anti-Wear Films Formed from Fresh and Aged Engine Oils (SAE 2006-01-1099)

Dairene Uy, Steven J. Simko, Ann E. O'Neill, Ronald K. Jensen, Arup K. Gangopadhyay and Roscoe O. Carter III
Research and Advanced Engineering, Ford Motor Company

3. The Effect of Oil Drain Interval on Valvetrain Friction and Wear (SAE 2007-01-4133)

A. K. Gangopadhyay, R. O. Carter III, D. Uy, S. J. Simko and M. Riley, Ford Motor Company
C. B. Phillips and H. Gao, ConocoPhillips Company

[StatusQuo]

Lol. This picture is from the the PC Master Race community. PCMR.

Never thought I'd see this here.


*I'm a computer hardware guy myself*

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