If an injector is leaking you’d see varnish and scuzz (technical term) all around it. My vote is a torn or packed out o-ring.
I've removed the fuel rail and injectors to inspect and I noticed no 'scuzz' marks on any of the four injectors - they're actually very clean for being under there for all these years, and there doesn't seem to be any visible cracks on any of the injectors either.
Here's what I've done this past weekend:
- Replaced upper and lower injector O-ring seals with the Standard Motor Products SK1 O-rings ->
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....=47159&jsn=278
I carefully took a razor blade to slice the old ones and used the cone tool to install the new ones. Using this method, I didn't break the lower washer-like seal retainer.
- I didn't want to remove all the vacuum lines and plumbing so I partially removed the intake manifold (IM) enough to change out the IM gasket, slip a rag under the runner ports to contain any broken injector cup fragments and replaced the four injector cups (non-technical term). I didn't have any luck removing them in one piece even though I took a heat gun to each in an attempt to soften them up. So I had to chisel each one out with a small flathead screwdriver and the smallest hammer I can find and cleaning out the glue residue on the threads. This was tedious but was mostly removed in large pieces.
In the process, one of my check valves snapped like twig. I found a smaller check valve and rigged it in there temporarily. These are costly from Audi so I'm going to order a few of these for a couple of bucks each:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....411232&jsn=397
I used plumbing Teflon tape for the injector cup threads. I've found that five wraps around was the right amount. Four didn't seem enough and six seemed too tight.
The car started and ran horribly after all of this. Scanning it revealed mis-fires and throttle positioning codes. I attributed the mis-fires to the fact I cleaned out the MAF sensor and throttle body as well. Doing a VCDS throttle body adaptation did the trick and all is good.
I had this recently, there is a rubber t piece that connects the crank case breather, pcv valve and cam cover breather, it was split leaving the pcv valve dangling. The smell was only apparent when stationary and mpg dropped to about 32 mpg (UK) I hope this is your problem, please keep us posted of what you find, it could be any of the pcv pipe work so check carefully.
Since doing all this didn't solve my problem, I will dig deeper into the PVC and EVAP systems since that's what's remaining for raw fuel under the hood. And it's definitely coming from under there.
Sorry about my ignorance about the PVC system on turbo vehicles, but does any know if a boost leak test would be able to help find the fuel smell from under the hood?
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