B6 S4 4.2L ->2.7T Swap Build

[diggy79]

Hey All,

I'm new here as you can tell. My name is Geoff.
I have read a ton of info here, sounds like a great bunch here. Not new to swaps as you can see in my signature, but new to Audi's. I have a 2011 S4 as my daily in the summer, and absolutely fell in love with it. Fast forward to this B6 i found. Always looking for winter projects and this swap peaked my interest. I Found the 2004 S4 6mt for sale with a blown 4.2L, and I must say, being almost a 14 year old car, it looks great!.






I will serve as my build thread, and it officially started a couple days ago, when my motor showed up!.


Just in the process of laying everything out and seeing what i am missing. starting a parts list to send to the wrecker, he has a 2002 A6 that this all came out of sitting almost 100% intact, other then the parts I've already got.





That's all for now. I hope no one minds but I'm going to try and be a little heavy on pictures, as there is a lot build info, including Clint's S4 build that has broken links due to photo bucket.

Cheers all

Geoff

[AudiA4_20T]

good stuff

[b1337]

nice!

[eljay]

Nice! That motor looks pretty clean!

[diggy79]

quick little update

Looks like a broken drivers side timing belt cover,

missing the lower passenger side intercooler hose.


Looks like i got the correct coolant reservoir B6 3.0


and for more detailed info regarding the trans spacer. In the DIY thread Clint says "B5 S4 spacer"., "Quicksilver on this forum throws out a part #01E103551C Transmission Spacer Plate" .
below is a picture of my trans spacer.


So it looks like S4 b5 spacer is the same as the C5 A6 spacer. Auto or manual, as this spacer is from a auto. Of course if some had this spacer and it didn't work let me know.

Parts i know i still need:

Motor Mounts: 8E0199351M & 8E0199352N (wrecker has them) B6 3.0
Intercooler brackets (wrecker has them) C5 A6
Power steering line: 8D1422893BF (wrecker has it ) C5 A6
Missing one diverter valve, probably just get 2 new billet ones, 034, or CTS, probably CTS since they are local.
Radiator

A\C compressor with bracket and all 3.0 B6 lines (wrecker has it) B6 3.0


Looking at South bend Clutch and FW, Probably Stage 2 daily
down pipes: looking at Wagner 3" Down pipe Kit, B5 Audi S4/RS4 2.7T sounds like they fit with no mods required.
https://store.034motorsport.com/wagn...-rs4-2-7t.html

more to come

Cheers

[jjvwg]

congrats! nice find on the s4. ive just started getting ready for a swap myself. pretty much at the same spot as you, trying to get a hold of any parts i need that are missing currently and working through the wiring and refreshing my motor. good luck!

[diggy79]

thanks,, Good luck to you as well.

yeah i dropped 700 bucks at ECS for maintenance parts.

ultimate timing belt kit , with tool
plugs
valve cover gaskets and cam seals
a vacuum line repair kit
some oil filters \oil

[diggy79]

another quick question for you all.

does anyone know the part # for that lower intercooler hose i need lower passenger?

also in reading it sounds like i need a fuel pump from a B6 1.8 or 3.0 as they are the same, does anyone know what that part # is.?

I'm just going to build my own return line using Russel fittings and line.

Also i noticed most reference the Bentley Cd's for wiring info, as anyone used Alldata, i have used Alldata for my Duramax swaps, and the info is great.
and i was looking at the body plugs, i am curious if you have both cars info, couldn't you just re-pin the plugs instead of creating a custom go-between?

[jjvwg]

another quick question for you all.

does anyone know the part # for that lower intercooler hose i need lower passenger?

also in reading it sounds like i need a fuel pump from a B6 1.8 or 3.0 as they are the same, does anyone know what that part # is.?

I'm just going to build my own return line using Russel fittings and line.

Also i noticed most reference the Bentley Cd's for wiring info, as anyone used Alldata, i have used Alldata for my Duramax swaps, and the info is great.
and i was looking at the body plugs, i am curious if you have both cars info, couldn't you just re-pin the plugs instead of creating a custom go-between?

i can get you the part number for the intercooler hose in a little bit, unless someone beats me to it. as for the wiring diagrams. get yourself a one day subscription to audi's erwin website and download any and all service manuals you could ever want. all PDF format and they have a lot of good information. They even have the self study on the 2.7T engine which if you're not familiar with it will be extremely helpful. Also, very helpful tip here, there is a very powerful PDF viewer/editing program called Bluebeam Revu that I use daily at work that makes going through the PDF wiring diagrams a breeze. you can download a trial from there website and even when the trial is up the few basic tools you need will still be available. you can search the document for each connector/pin and highlight stuff and give it a name for quick reference to go back and look later on, and it utilizes bookmarks built into the PDF so you can check that you are looking at the right area of the diagrams. Been meaning to post this up in the 2.7 swap thread to help future swappers out.

[diggy79]

thanks for the info. We use .pdf diagrams at work as well, i'm downloading as i type.. going to have a look.

[jjvwg]

part number is gone off that intercooler hose, sorry

[eljay]

another quick question for you all.

does anyone know the part # for that lower intercooler hose i need lower passenger?

078145720N.

[diggy79]

Update.,

Getting into the motor a bit.
pulled coils and plugs, doing valve cover gaskets, and new plugs. BUT,, found something., this is why you never "just run" a motor from a wrecker or any used motor for that matter.
two coil seals are missing of 2 of my coils, and one hole was full of water.
the 2 without seals where aftermarket and the rest OEM, so i ordered 2 new OEM ones and 4 new seals for the rest.


Getting ready for timing belt swap. (gates racing, OEM water pump, tension pulley and idler pulley as well as aluminum thermostat housing and new thermostat )


looked at the turbos the KO3s look good, and no leaks or any sign of damage on impellers.
I am going to run with them.

The motor came from a Automatic A6 so it has SAI, and pump.
all this is gone, using 034 block offs, they are on order. going to have to rebuild my PVC setup., what a mess back there. I've ordered a catch can, and will run some custom lines to it.!
does not look like there is a DIY that still has pictures. going to just build a 4 ways setup between crank breather, and valve covers to the catch can, then out of catch into PVC. what have other done here...?



and rear main seal looks good too.


that's all for now.
Cheers

[jjvwg]

looking good. im pretty much at the same spot as you right now. gonna drop my intake mani and valve covers at my powder coater tomorrow and hoping to get my exhaust manifolds ceramic coated soon here also. are you planning on doing a full top end re-seal? having some heartburn right now with the fact that the proper cam seal tools cost ~$300... not really into pulling the cam bridge to swap the cam seals though, especially using PTFE seals. whats your plan. can you do me a favor? can you post a picture of the vacuum lines to the n249 towards the back of the motor if you get a chance. mine was "hack fixed at some point and i want to order parts to get this back to OEM. also, the small coolant hose above the oil cooler between the hard "crossover" pipe and the har pipe going up towards the top of the drivers side head... can you get a part number for me please? much appreciated.

never really done a build thread but maybe ill have to start one here soon for my swap.

[diggy79]

Thanks.

I'm being a little lazy I'm not doing a full seal job. Not doing cam seals. They all look good. Just did valve cover gaskets. They were seeping a bit.

I will post some pictures first thing. Are you talking about the little elbow ..? I will also post a pic to make sure. Part # 078 121 095 AF

Does anyone know the part number for the crank pulley bolts. Stripped 2 of them. Damm those are soft. I stripped 4 of them doing a timing belt on another VW a couple years ago.

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[diggy79]

This one JJVWg

[jjvwg]

Thats the one, thanks.

[diggy79]

Hey Guys,

Just had a chance to hook up the VCDS-lite to the S4. to pull some codes.

Just a bit of history about this car. the previous owner told me the story and i was hesitant to post it, but i am ohh so curious about what is actually wrong with it. So here goes.

Previous owner had the timing chains\tensions\adjusts fail (not sure exactly) he took it to his local dealer, the did the repair, not sure what they did?, maybe just tensioners, or adjusters.. unsure, Anyways.
He then got his car back and and not too long after the engine failed again. (i assume really bad) as apparently the dealer had to replace the motor on their dime. He told me they sourced a used one and installed it.

Then..
Some time later, not long apparently the replacement motor had issues. I assume after they sourced a used motor, they did nothing too it. So this second motor was having issues, and he ended up going after the dealer and they settle outside of court.
Again i don't know the previous owner at all, so not sure how true all of this is..

So i have a S4 with a 4.2L that wont crank, turn the key, push the clutch in, and nothing, a slight click. (this was with a fully charged battery)., Fast forward to today, i just got a new ebay cable as i could not find my old one,. and here are all the faults. i assume the low voltage is the battery getting low, as it has been sitting, for 2 months in the cold.

i am looking for any info any of you guys can provide as the motor is showing no Faults.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Saturday, 23 December 2017, 10:14:26:17646


Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,0F,11,15,16,17,18,36,37,45,46,55,56 ,57,65,67,69,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8E0 910 560 G
Component: 4.2L V8/5V G 0030
Coding: 0007711
Shop #: WSC 52147
VCID: 29253A49C0E1
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-517.LBL
Controller: 8E0 614 517 Q
Component: ABS/ESP allrad 3033
Coding: 04595
Shop #: WSC 06435
VCID: 361FE135015F
1 Fault Found:
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.LBL
Controller: 8E0 820 043 AD
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1319
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 63B96861E24D
3 Faults Found:
01273 - Fresh Air Blower (V2)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time
27-00 - Implausible Signal

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.LBL
Controller: 8E0 907 279 F
Component: int. Lastmodul KAN 0517
Coding: 01014
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 351DE6391C59
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.LBL
Controller: 8E0 959 655 K
Component: Airbag 8.4EP 1001
Coding: 0010707
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 3FF184112E65
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8E0-953-549.LBL
Controller: 8E0 953 549 N
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0611
Coding: 01041
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 3E0FF915296F
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.LBL
Controller: 8E0 920 931 A
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D42
Coding: 01331
Shop #: WSC 91429
VCID: 263F3175D1FF
WAUPL58E64A130994 AUZ6Z0C0365253
2 Faults Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01304 - Radio
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 8E0-959-760.LBL
Controller: 8E0 959 760
Component: Sitzmemory R2 F 0305
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: F1959229A8B1
1 Fault Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8E0-959-433-MAX.LBL
Controller: 8E0 959 433 BB
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 1411
Coding: 11788
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 72971D252DB7
5 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-00 - No Communications
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
35-00 - -
00956 - Key 2
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01561 - Left Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 4Z7-907-357.LBL
Controller: 4Z7 907 357
Component: dynamische LWR D09
Coding: 00060
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 047B4BFD0703
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.LBL
Controller: 8E0 035 195 Q
Component: symphony II NP2 0052
Coding: 00201
Shop #: WSC 00002
VCID: 351DE6391C59
No fault code found.

End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Nollywood]

Very nice!

I would have built the V8 though, to handle boost.

[diggy79]

Well that's why I'm posting this info. I can't seem to find any codes or issues related to timing chains.

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[diggy79]

I turn the key and hear a thud, like the starter is trying but can't. Fully charge optima battery out of my truck. Also swapped that relay under the ECU.

Could it really just be the starter. ? Thinking of putting it on the hoist and pulling the starter. Or put it in service mode pull the plugs a d try and rotate the motor by hand

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[diggy79]

Ok, another update.

I pulled the car in the shop. pulled the starter. and the plugs. in hopes of trying to rotate the motor by hand, with the motor still in the car. I assumed that with plugs out i could rotate it by the alternator bolt. but i can not. pulley just spins.

Its just so weird. if in fact the engine is piled up, i would if thought at lest some codes related to the motor would come up.? any ideas guys?.

I am just at across roads, i want to pull the motor and see, but i also don't want to tie up the hoist. have to do a wheel bearing in one my of my Duramax trucks, and a goose neck install on a buddies Duramax. has anyone seen the timing chains pile up, enough to stop the motor from turning, but not throw any codes what so ever. or is it some thing else like clutch,, flywheel?. i also don't want to buy a starter unless there is hope, ans all the 2.7T stuff is almost ready.

Cheers

[B6Lovin]

If you want to rotate the engine over by hand you'll need to spin it from the crankshaft, not the alternator -- even with the plugs out. There's always a possibility that you've got multiple problems with that engine as well.

If the battery got dead enough and was never ran after that but only charged up (or if the faults were cleared at some point) - there is a chance that you won't have any engine related faults stored but only all those voltage related errors. The car would have to run or at least crank to give you any timing faults (like correlation or bad signal, etc.)

Not having anything else listed at least means that all your sensors are plugged in and working correctly with everything off.

If it were me - I'd first verify that I can turn the motor by hand. If I could, I'd go get an autozone starter to slap in and give it a whirl. Worst case you're out the time to put in and remove the starter -- which you can just return if you get a similar result to the starter you have now. If the motor spins though, you'll have more information or possibly even a running engine. Only one way to find out though.


You can also bench test your starter to verify proper operation, though that won't tell you whether or not it can actually produce the required torque to spin the motor. Did you try the starter with the plugs out?

[diggy79]

B6Lovin,

Thanks for the reply, that makes sense. the previous owner had the car sitting for almost a year, with battery connected. needless to say the original battery was Fubar. No i did not try the starter with plugs out. I will bench test the starter.

Regarding rotating the engine with the crankshaft, i don't see how ?, is there a socket in the middle of the pully.?, its not like the 2.7T with the 12 point i can get a socket on it?. if there is something i can get a socket on i will pull the carrier, but it does not look like there is anything. ?

Cheers

[diggy79]

unless i pull the carrier, and take off a a couple crank pulley bolts and put in longer ones in and rotate with a pry bar.?

[B6Lovin]

B6Lovin,

Thanks for the reply, that makes sense. the previous owner had the car sitting for almost a year, with battery connected. needless to say the original battery was Fubar. No i did not try the starter with plugs out. I will bench test the starter.

Regarding rotating the engine with the crankshaft, i don't see how ?, is there a socket in the middle of the pully.?, its not like the 2.7T with the 12 point i can get a socket on it?. if there is something i can get a socket on i will pull the carrier, but it does not look like there is anything. ?

Cheers

Oh yeah, damn 4.2's. Sorry, was in "literally almost every other engine ever in an audi" mode.

The S4's are kind of a pain in the ass. You could try putting more force against the belt tensioner to turn it via the alternator (read: much more difficult than it should be), or you can make a tool that will lock in to the holes in the pulley or in the bolt heads with enough of a kink in it to give you leverage to rotate. FWIW the manual says to rotate by the alternator - but being as you tried that with no luck I'd maybe try going the other route. A second set of hands wouldnt hurt either.

[B6Lovin]

While we're at it - this is with the car in neutral as well, right? And you've confirmed that the clutch isn't frozen? (get behind the car and push it to confirm)

If you've got some strong buddies you could always put it in gear and push it to turn the motor over lol

With the plugs out and some elbow grease, you may even be able to just grab the damper pulley and rotate it by hand with the car in service position.

and as a last resort because money on something you'll use once:

https://davescarparts.com/products/k...a-and-4-2v8-5v

[TMeschke]

Definitely want to follow this build, since I’d love to do the same. Best of luck!


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[diggy79]

now your on to something!

with plugs out, and starter removed i can hear pressure pushing passed the coils. ( i put them back in to cover the holes.) in First gear i can push the car back and forth about 2-3 inches. not I'm not sure if i am fighting the chains or the transmission. How could i tell if the clutch is frozen.? in neutral i can push the car around with 1 hand.

[diggy79]

Thanks B6Lovin!,

F$@k it!, LOL I'm just going to pull it.! Wasting time, reading the DIYs with a 2 post hoist and Engine Lift shouldn't take too long.!

Even if the engine is OK, ive still got to pull it to service the guides, which i would do anyways.!

Cheers all
I'll post some pictures of the pull. everyone likes engine porn.

[B6Lovin]

now your on to something!

with plugs out, and starter removed i can hear pressure pushing passed the coils. ( i put them back in to cover the holes.) in First gear i can push the car back and forth about 2-3 inches. not I'm not sure if i am fighting the chains or the transmission. How could i tell if the clutch is frozen.? in neutral i can push the car around with 1 hand.

You'd need to put it in gear, push the clutch down, and have a friend try to push. If it moves easily you're good.
You're definitely pushing against the transmission - it's very very hard to move a car in gear.

if you can hear pressure pushing past the coils the motor isnt locked up and you can move on to popping in a starter.

or just yank it out anyways lol. up to you

[diggy79]

Update.

Got the 4.2L out of the car. not too bad., i followed the DIY on Audi Revolution WB.

Only a couple of snags. If you have done the pull, don't leave the axles in, they just get in your way and make the pull harder, same with axle shields. If you can get the angle of the dangle right it may be easier. i guess if i removed the shields first, the DP's might have slid pasted the axles. maybe someone knows. i was looking at Clint build thread, and at one point when we could see the pictures of his S4, i thought i saw that he had left the axle in. ?

Second. either disconnect the o2 sensors from cat's, and fully remove trans cross member. just another thing that gets in the way. i was using a engine picker and a hoist, and getting that angle just right so not to drag the sifter in the tunnel was difficult..

Just ordered some new Stern motor mounts from CTS and clutch and FW just showed up from 034. I had a question about the 034 FW tho.

I got the 034 lightweight flywheel. and if came with the pilot bearing not installed. I am trying to fine some info or a DIY for it. just don't want to screw it up.

Just waiting on lower mount brackets and 3.0L AC parts from wrecker, and i will start installing the 2.7T.

Also regarding the wiring, i was looking at some of the data between the A6 2.7T -> b6 S4 4.2L, and i am curious, has anyone just repined the connectors, and not done the pigtail.?

Cheers

Geoff

[diggy79]

ohh and BTW B6lovin, with no plugs and no transmission installed, the motor will still not spin, so something is definitely not good inside the 4.2L.

[jjvwg]

if you get an oem clutch kit they usually come with a pilot bearing and the throw out bearing. just seat it in flush with the faceof the flywheel.

[diggy79]

i got the 034 motorsports lightweight FW and the RS4 Lux clutch kit at 034.

i have a new throw out bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts. The question is the pilot bearing install. it does sound like it installs in the FW not the crank.? anybody done one.? i have a call into 034 to ask.

the motor was from a Automatic.,

[dalazybastard]

For non-turbo v6’s the pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel and has the same part # as the turbo ones.

I’m sure others will chime in with more info.


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[Human Garbage]

Nice build man!

Good to see a BC guy represent too. I was born in Vancouver and work in Calgary currently but my heart never left BC... My New Years resolution is to work a transfer back to other side of the rocks this year.

[diggy79]

Well good luck too you.! I was born in Burnaby, then when I was 7 or 8 moved to the shu.

I love the Shuswap. Best place I've found. and I travel for a living. !

Cheers

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[jjvwg]

i got the 034 motorsports lightweight FW and the RS4 Lux clutch kit at 034.

i have a new throw out bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts. The question is the pilot bearing install. it does sound like it installs in the FW not the crank.? anybody done one.? i have a call into 034 to ask.

the motor was from a Automatic.,

Yes, it goes in the flywheel. Like I said, push it in until it flush with the face of the flywheel.

[diggy79]

So quick update. Got the 4.2 apart to take a look at the chains

Looks like the left side is in time but the right clearly is not.




The side that is out is under extreme tension. The tensioner is fully compressed but the left I can move the tensioner





No broken guides at all. What happened.? I wonder if I lost a cam adjuster.

Anyways. I assume it the timing is out on that side, those valves and pistons or fubared.

Cheers

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