Oil level is at minimum... am i good to drive for another week?

[Quattttttttttro]

Hi guys,

So out of the blue I decided to check the oil level on my S5 in Car settings and it's right on the minimum mark. I haven't gotten any notifications anywhere indicating that it's low.
I needed to run by the Audi dealer to get a spare key made and also talk to them about setting up Audi Connect. Do you guys think I'm good to drive until next saturday so I could tackle all 3 things at the same time or do you think this is urgent? Last time I had an oil change was in June so it's not like it's burning the oil too quickly

[LINDW4LL]

I'm confused. Are you suggesting you'd need to visit the dealer to have them add oil?

Anyway, you're likely OK if the add oil alert hasn't displayed yet, but I always prefer to have the proper amount of oil in my engine. Stop at any auto store, grab a quart, and top off.

[DownhillA4]

I'm confused. Are you suggesting you'd need to visit the dealer to have them add oil?

Anyway, you're likely OK if the add oil alert hasn't displayed yet, but I always prefer to have the proper amount of oil in my engine. Stop at any auto store, grab a quart, and top off.

What Hayden said, why risk it?

[Runge]

I usually get the notification around 5000miles to add more oil on the RS. Drove another 120miles with the notification without issue or computer saying anything else. Just kept RPM's low and no aggressive driving until I got it topped up.

[b8audis4]

I would say and get some oil and top it off, but it just depends how many miles you are driving. If you are going to drive 10 miles each day for the next week, dont worry about it. But if you have a 100 mile daily commute, then I would fill it up soon.

[namvar]

I usually get the notification around 5000miles to add more oil on the RS. Drove another 120miles with the notification without issue or computer saying anything else. Just kept RPM's low and no aggressive driving until I got it topped up.

I get the oil warning around 5K also. I immediately add half a quart and take it in for an oil service. Oil is inexpensive. Engines are not.

[Sazexa]

On my '09 S5, the oil warning light comes on when you're 1.25 quarts low. The warning says basically "1 1/4 quarts low(er than standard)" and that it also paired that with "it is okay to continue driving." The car holds 10 quarts, so, 1.25 is not too bad. I wouldn't run lower than 8.5 quarts though. Does your car have the infotainment/MMI display of oil?

EDIT: Just for anyone curious, this on mine was caused by a fairly typical oil leak on the 4.2L V8, where the gaskets for the oil filter housing (located at the rear top side of the engine) has a pedestal that goes underneath the intake manifold. It's when an o-ring shaped like an 8 wears out. I knew it was leaking for a little while, and finally decided to fix it when it was bad enough where 3,000 miles into an oil change I was getting that warning I mentioned above. I did the job myself. It's a bit intensive, involving removing the high-pressure fuel pumps, intake tube, throttle body and union, some other emissions BS, and the intake manifold. But the gaskets were only about $5 for two of them, and then the cost of a new oil filter and 10 quarts of synthetic. It took about four hours to fix. If you find out yours has a leak in a similar spot, depending on your mileage, it might be wise to get a carbon cleaning done if need be. As if this is the case, the cylinders are ready to be reached right as you're there.

[Quattttttttttro]

Thank you everyone. The indicator is still not on but I'm just being a little scaredy cat and gonna get it done soon as month end close is done at work.

I have some extra Mobil 1 full synthetic that I used on my previous car, 2013 Jetta, do you think it's fine to add that? I heard someone or somewhere say Audi uses Castrol so I didn't know if adding a quart of a different brand would hurt the engine

[old guy]

Thank you everyone. The indicator is still not on but I'm just being a little scaredy cat and gonna get it done soon as month end close is done at work.

I have some extra Mobil 1 full synthetic that I used on my previous car, 2013 Jetta, do you think it's fine to add that? I heard someone or somewhere say Audi uses Castrol so I didn't know if adding a quart of a different brand would hurt the engine

It won't hurt a thing. Go ahead and top it off.

[NPuter]

I actually wouldn't add any unless the add oil warning comes up on your DIS. I've had the MMI oil level display fluctuate between min and max, so you may not actually be low. It really shouldn't be trusted imo.

Popping the hood and closing it will make the car take another reading.

[old guy]

I actually wouldn't add any unless the add oil warning comes up on your DIS. I've had the MMI oil level display fluctuate between min and max, so you may not actually be low. It really shouldn't be trusted imo.

Popping the hood and closing it will make the car take another reading.

That's why I have a dipstick.

[Hy Octane]

i'd be more concerned as to why you are a quart low to begin with.

[Quattttttttttro]

I actually wouldn't add any unless the add oil warning comes up on your DIS. I've had the MMI oil level display fluctuate between min and max, so you may not actually be low. It really shouldn't be trusted imo.

Popping the hood and closing it will make the car take another reading.

I find it really odd that there's a dipstick hole in these cars, but there is no dipstick and instead there's a cap that covers the hole lol.
Maybe I should get a dipstick

i'd be more concerned as to why you are a quart low to begin with.

the 3.0T drinks up oil as I've read on the internet and it can be as serious as having to add oil every month to not having to add oil up until the next due date for an oil change.

[plat]

Thank you everyone. The indicator is still not on but I'm just being a little scaredy cat and gonna get it done soon as month end close is done at work.

I have some extra Mobil 1 full synthetic that I used on my previous car, 2013 Jetta, do you think it's fine to add that? I heard someone or somewhere say Audi uses Castrol so I didn't know if adding a quart of a different brand would hurt the engine

Look at your bottle of Mobil 1 and find out if it satisfies Audi/VW 502 oil standards. If not, go buy a bottle of your favorite oil brand that meet or exceed Audi/VW 502. Castrol is just the brand that the factory recommends because of Castrol's relationship with Audi/VW. Castrol pays Audi/VW big $$ to have their logo on the oil cap.

Also, get an oil dipstick for your engine if you do not have one yet. That MMI oil reading is not exactly precise and Owners tend to overfill the engine a lot of times.

[SuperMex]

I'm confused. Are you suggesting you'd need to visit the dealer to have them add oil?

Anyway, you're likely OK if the add oil alert hasn't displayed yet, but I always prefer to have the proper amount of oil in my engine. Stop at any auto store, grab a quart, and top off.

This. What's more of an issue to you? Taking 15 minutes to top off or having to buy a new engine?

[Hy Octane]

I have not had to add oil to my 3.0 S5 yet.. Doesnt burn any.. But 4 Audi's ago I gave up on commercial oils (Mobil 1 and Castrol etc) as I discovered just how inefficient they really are..

Heres a brief explanation..

When you go to the local store to pick out your oil, the first lubricant that you would consider is a solvent refined mineral oil. As in all choices, there are positives and negatives in using a regular solvent refined petroleum oil. Since the molecules are various sizes, they absorb temperature in an uneven rate. Some of the big molecules hold and suspend the heat, the medium size molecules tend to cook out, while the very small molecules turn into hard carbon and varnish. Since up to 35% of their makeup is solvent, one quart of oil could have as much as 11.2 oz of solvent….ILSAC-GF4.
The PCV valve is used to evacuate the solvent fumes from the crankcase. So solvent refined oils also absorb acid, carbon, and moisture. This contributes to your oil level going down! As early as 1800 miles, your oil is spent. Their pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability are also marginal. This is where the sludge comes from on higher temperature newer engines.
However, the positives of the mineral oils are that they are very friendly on the seals, and their ability to suspend the additive packages are very good. At 1,850 degrees F, they sinter, and fall apart. Your flame front is between 3,500 and 4,200 degrees F, and it turns your solvent refined oils to carbon powder very quickly.
On the other hand, if you are thinking that well I will just use a typical synthetic, you also are not immune. The synthetic oil stock is produced by condensing natural gas into a Poly-alpha-olefin (PAO) base stock.
The positives of this stock is it’s pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability which are much better than a solvent refined oil. It can withstand 2,750 degrees F, and absorbs heat evenly because the molecule sizes are all uniform. However, we still have 3,500 to 4,200 degrees F at combustion, and that temperature will turn PAO to carbon powder too and will still contaminate your detergents and dispersants. The synthetics still have between 8% and 15% volatility….which is better than the mineral with 35%, but still much more than you really want!
The synthetic stock is very aggressive on your seals, and it’s ability to keep the additive packages in suspention are also relatively poor. If you are thinking of blending the two together, now you have two oils, and two problems, as you will still exhibit positives and negatives of both. Remember too that the ILSAC GF-4 spec is designed for “minimum standards” and “satisfactory performance” in “regular use” applications. Well any change to the system such as a TCM tuner or heads, cams, higher flow injectors, turbo charging, Super charging or any modification leaves the off the shelf oils holding the bag, and if you are using them with a higher performance engine, driveline, or application, you could be holding the bag as well!

With the advent of the EPA Phase III, solid lifter and flat tappet cams are wiping out!!! Even if you have a roller set up, all is not well these days. Some companies are recommending diesel oils to help with the loss of Zinc, which is the anti-scuff agent that was once prevalent in all oils. This doesn’t help as these oils also have been reduced in the amount of additives to comply with the new CJ 07 oil specs. All SJ, SL, and SM and later oils have been stripped of their effective additive packages for “clean air”.
The EPA claims that zinc hurts emission control components namely the catalytic converter. We find this funny since most all vehicles since 1975 have had catalytic converters and emission control components. The more sophisticated emission components have been around since the early 80′s. EXCEPT for a few of those brand new engines……they are virtually the same and have been for many years. What it comes down to is a desire to speed up the destruction of our vehicles so we will go out and replace them with new ones. Once again, they are going ahead and penalizing the rest of us.
What they have embarked on is the reduction of SAPZ. This is Sulfated Ash, Phosphorous and Zinc.
Sulfated Ash is the component that mitigates the total base number or TBN. Total Base Number is a measure of the amount of basic additives in a lubricant. High TBN is desirable in a crankcase oil to control corrosive engine wear from the acids of combustion.
Phosphorous is an anti-scuff agent that is critical in protecting high RPM and High load engines from wear especially on cams, lifters, and cam followers as well as other internal components.

[Quattttttttttro]

That's why I have a dipstick.

So I guess this is the dipstick to get for the S5? https://www.amazon.com/MTC-4686-06E-...rds=06E115611H

Is it okay to leave it in while driving or is it recommended to put the plug in while driving? what do you do?

[plat]

So I guess this is the dipstick to get for the S5? https://www.amazon.com/MTC-4686-06E-...rds=06E115611H

Is it okay to leave it in while driving or is it recommended to put the plug in while driving? what do you do?

Yes, that's the correct one for the Supercharged 3.0L V6 engine. I left mine in the engine since day 1. Still OK. I know other members do not leave it in.

[ICU2]

I have not had to add oil to my 3.0 S5 yet.. Doesnt burn any.. But 4 Audi's ago I gave up on commercial oils (Mobil 1 and Castrol etc) as I discovered just how inefficient they really are..

Heres a brief explanation..

When you go to the local store to pick out your oil, the first lubricant that you would consider is a solvent refined mineral oil. As in all choices, there are positives and negatives in using a regular solvent refined petroleum oil. Since the molecules are various sizes, they absorb temperature in an uneven rate. Some of the big molecules hold and suspend the heat, the medium size molecules tend to cook out, while the very small molecules turn into hard carbon and varnish. Since up to 35% of their makeup is solvent, one quart of oil could have as much as 11.2 oz of solvent….ILSAC-GF4.
The PCV valve is used to evacuate the solvent fumes from the crankcase. So solvent refined oils also absorb acid, carbon, and moisture. This contributes to your oil level going down! As early as 1800 miles, your oil is spent. Their pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability are also marginal. This is where the sludge comes from on higher temperature newer engines.
However, the positives of the mineral oils are that they are very friendly on the seals, and their ability to suspend the additive packages are very good. At 1,850 degrees F, they sinter, and fall apart. Your flame front is between 3,500 and 4,200 degrees F, and it turns your solvent refined oils to carbon powder very quickly.
On the other hand, if you are thinking that well I will just use a typical synthetic, you also are not immune. The synthetic oil stock is produced by condensing natural gas into a Poly-alpha-olefin (PAO) base stock.
The positives of this stock is it’s pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability which are much better than a solvent refined oil. It can withstand 2,750 degrees F, and absorbs heat evenly because the molecule sizes are all uniform. However, we still have 3,500 to 4,200 degrees F at combustion, and that temperature will turn PAO to carbon powder too and will still contaminate your detergents and dispersants. The synthetics still have between 8% and 15% volatility….which is better than the mineral with 35%, but still much more than you really want!
The synthetic stock is very aggressive on your seals, and it’s ability to keep the additive packages in suspention are also relatively poor. If you are thinking of blending the two together, now you have two oils, and two problems, as you will still exhibit positives and negatives of both. Remember too that the ILSAC GF-4 spec is designed for “minimum standards” and “satisfactory performance” in “regular use” applications. Well any change to the system such as a TCM tuner or heads, cams, higher flow injectors, turbo charging, Super charging or any modification leaves the off the shelf oils holding the bag, and if you are using them with a higher performance engine, driveline, or application, you could be holding the bag as well!

With the advent of the EPA Phase III, solid lifter and flat tappet cams are wiping out!!! Even if you have a roller set up, all is not well these days. Some companies are recommending diesel oils to help with the loss of Zinc, which is the anti-scuff agent that was once prevalent in all oils. This doesn’t help as these oils also have been reduced in the amount of additives to comply with the new CJ 07 oil specs. All SJ, SL, and SM and later oils have been stripped of their effective additive packages for “clean air”.
The EPA claims that zinc hurts emission control components namely the catalytic converter. We find this funny since most all vehicles since 1975 have had catalytic converters and emission control components. The more sophisticated emission components have been around since the early 80′s. EXCEPT for a few of those brand new engines……they are virtually the same and have been for many years. What it comes down to is a desire to speed up the destruction of our vehicles so we will go out and replace them with new ones. Once again, they are going ahead and penalizing the rest of us.
What they have embarked on is the reduction of SAPZ. This is Sulfated Ash, Phosphorous and Zinc.
Sulfated Ash is the component that mitigates the total base number or TBN. Total Base Number is a measure of the amount of basic additives in a lubricant. High TBN is desirable in a crankcase oil to control corrosive engine wear from the acids of combustion.
Phosphorous is an anti-scuff agent that is critical in protecting high RPM and High load engines from wear especially on cams, lifters, and cam followers as well as other internal components.

3 Questions come to mind. 1st is what oil R U using & Y? 2nd is if after 1800 miles the oil is just ~ spent, how do U account for the increased amount of mileage that most manufactures have gone too b/w oil changes?
3rd is even w/ all of the "advances" in motor oils, has any manufacturer "improved" their oil filters to account for the increase amount of time they R being required to filter the oil? BTW, thx for the explanation/info.

[MME1122]

I have the same dipstick and I leave it in. About 20K miles since I've had it, there is really no issue to leaving it in. I don't know why Audi didn't provide it with the cars, I think it's because since there's the reading in the MMI and they assume most people won't change their own oil it was unnecessary. For enthusiasts like us though it's helpful.