Car died while driving, cranks but won't start

[benim1]

2.0 Tfsi -05 215000km

I was driving for about 5 minutes in slow speed and the car died immediately. The EPC light illuminated. Everything else (radio, lights etc.) were still on. It cranks but won't start.
I can hear the fuel pump in the rear seat when I turn the ignition on.

I've:
Checked fuses (not sure which ones I should check, but I checked #28 and a few others).
Looked for damage around the ECU and the relays (where the 614's are), not sure how to know if something is damaged though.

I should probably also check the coils/sparkplugs.

What else can I check before I get it towed to a workshop?

Some other info:
My car has been leaking coolant like crazy for the last few weeks (one full tank gets me ~50km before Low Coolant warning), if I hold my hand at the generator sometimes I can feel water drops coming from the belt.
CEL has been on for a while, did a scan a month ago and I have P310B (low fuel pressure). More - https://imgur.com/a/6SMly.
I got a chip tune a month ago.
The car was in workshop in April and fixed a few things (I did not own the car at this point), here are some notes about what was done: "Warning for high fuel pressure, have changed pump, removed tuning. Change oil+filter. Low pressure side (at measure only 5bar but went up to 13bar after a short drive. After changing pump we didn't get more than 3bar, therefore change pressure sensor. change high pressure pump own material"

[dalmation53]

Sounds like your hpfp took a dump. You not getting any fuel brotha

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[MSq5]

I will offer a few observations. First a qualifier: I've never owned a 2.0TSFI engine car. But, I've spent quite a bit of time in other four cylinder, direct injection turbocharged engines with similar fueling.

I have an '08 Mazdaspeed 3 (MPS in Europe). I bought the car new in '08. It has a 2.3L direct injection turbo engine running a K04 turbo, similar to the K03 in the Audi engine. It uses the same high pressure fuel pump, and the Mazdaspeed engine uses the same upgraded fuel pump internals from Autotech to improve fuel volume and pressure when power mods are added to the engine.

I had a drop in pressure on the stock high pressure pump after adding aftermarket power modifications (intake, downpipe, tune). I caught the drop by data logging before the engine was damaged. Yes, you can damage the engine by going into a high boost situation if fuel rail pressure drops. What happens in the Mazda is likely in the Audi. If the pump is no longer able to keep up with fuel demands either due to increased demand or because the pump is getting old and the piston and cylinder are worn, the engine's ECU recognizes the condition and tries to compensate by increasing fuel injector duty cycle. It can do this only up to a point.

In other words, the injectors stay open longer to try to get the proper volume of fuel into the cylinder. A shorter spray under higher pressure can be emulated up to a point by a longer spray under lower pressure. But, once that limit is reached, the engine AFR leans out and engine damage can occur. It can happen in a blink of the eye. We've seen blown engines with the turbo Mazdas even running stock K04 turbos when this happens. Also the lower pressure injector charge does not atomize the fuel well, so it tends not to burn well and may pool up on the top of the pistons, creating hot spots, also not good for the engine.

I would defer to those with direct 2.0T experience. I speak only in theory regarding our experience with a different but similar engine with virtually identical high pressure fuel delivery, direct injection system, and in a very similar turbocharged environment.

My suggestion would be to avoid driving this car, even if you can get it started, until the true source of the low pressure is identified and resolved. If you do try to drive, it, stay out of boost, drive it only as far as to get it to someone who can diagnose and service the problem. One clue I see that raises concern is that the former owner had some sort of aftermarket tune on the car that has been removed. The stock tune may be actually producing unsafe conditions if other aftermarket parts on the car were not removed, such as high flow intake, a downpipe or other modifications. Our Mazda K04 turbos overboost badly if you run a high flow (CAI) intake and a downpipe without a proper tune and upgraded fuel pump internals.

Sorry for the long post. In short don't drive it if you can get it started unless you have to, and don't get on boost until after the low fuel rail pressure cause is identified and fixed.

[B7S3wannabi]

When cranking the engine, does it sound as it normally does or as if it is spinning free? Sounds like maybe your water pump has been leaking all over the timing belt and the belt came off.... that would suck


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[a4lownslow]

When cranking the engine, does it sound as it normally does or as if it is spinning free? Sounds like maybe your water pump has been leaking all over the timing belt and the belt came off.... that would suck


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I would definitely remove the upper timing belt cover to ensure the belt is in tact and spinning. Hopefully that's not your issue :/


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[benim1]

Thanks for the replies!

I will definitely follow your advice MSq5 and take it to a workshop even if I manage to get it running. Most likely I will get it towed during the week and just hope the repair cost is under $2k. I probably don't have the right tools or patience to fix it myself.

When cranking the engine, does it sound as it normally does or as if it is spinning free? Sounds like maybe your water pump has been leaking all over the timing belt and the belt came off.... that would suck

I'd say it sounds normal. I actually have a video, but here the battery is pretty drained so it sounds a bit slow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLfqxMpP64A
I will remove the cover and make sure it is intact and spinning.

[B7S3wannabi]

Is it my phone or does anyone else not hear anything?


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[a4lownslow]

Is it my phone or does anyone else not hear anything?


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Same for me. I have to open a web browser to get sound.. all videos I view with the app do this. Would be nice to know how to fix it lol


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[B7S3wannabi]

Sounds like it has compression. Thats a good sign. Engine didnt sputter out? Just shut off? Scan for codes please and report back.

[benim1]

Just shut off in a second, no sputter. I will have to buy a scanner, is the ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 good enough?

[B7S3wannabi]

Anything is better than nothing


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[dalmation53]

Just shut off in a second, no sputter. I will have to buy a scanner, is the ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 good enough?

Selling my obdeleven $65 shipped. Is the Audi and VW scan tool does the same as vag-com.

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[Okedokey]

Crank sensor me thinks, get it scanned though.

[Axis]

Crank sensor me thinks, get it scanned though.

If it is, get the Bosch for Passat B6 sensor, its cheaper and fits perfect. Only the harness is a tad longer.

[Okedokey]

If it is, get the Bosch for Passat B6 sensor, its cheaper and fits perfect. Only the harness is a tad longer.

Stop being so knowledgeable :) jj

[Axis]

Stop being so knowledgeable :) jj

Haha, I had mine give me a code recently and it was hard to start on cold mornings. Checked with my friend at the VW parts desk. By memory : Audi A4 oem (Made by Bosch) 115$ cad, Audi A4 Bosch 85$ cad and Passat B6 55$ cad. I went with the later, wire harness on our crank sensor is 4" and the one on the BPY carnk sensor is 6". I put a tie Wrap and called it a day.

[benim1]

Update: It was the timing belt :( only had it for two months . . .. . . . .. ....

[B7S3wannabi]

Interesting. Was it just my speakers that made it sound like it had compression? Maybe my speakers combined with the slow cranks from the dying battery.
Either way, that sucks. How handy are you?


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[DED.EXE]

this is exaclty what happened to my car a few days ago, I also asked bout this but this is more concise than my question, but what I was told with my explanation was that the spun rod broke and took out the bottom half of the engine, not sure if same applies for this case, but will be watching this thread

[benim1]

I will need a new engine, how much do they cost?

[Theiceman]

I will need a new engine, how much do they cost?

as much as the car sometimes

[tloft4]

Isn't it usually the timing belt when it cranks really fast? Look for a totalled rear ended car?

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[a4lownslow]

I will need a new engine, how much do they cost?

It would be much more cost effective to replace the cylinder head rather than the entire engine.. or just bring your old head to a machine shop and have them replace the valves, deck, and pressure test. This is Assuming you have the capabilities to remove and install the head yourself


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[benim1]

What do you think the cost would be? An engine would cost me 1500 - 2500 euro, which is kinda the limit of what I want to spend on this car.

[a4lownslow]

What do you think the cost would be? An engine would cost me 1500 - 2500 euro, which is kinda the limit of what I want to spend on this car.

Around 500$ is a realistic price to have a machine shop go through the head.

Then you'll need at bare minimum

-Timing belt kit
- Head gasket
- Head bolts
-cam seals

Also wouldn't hurt to replace valve cover gasket, timing tensioner, cam follower, thermostat and whatever else is easily accessible.

All in I think you could repair for 1000-1500$.

I'd be hesitant installing a junkyard engine because you don't know the history. And the 2.0t with its oil pump and cam follower issues can be a gamble.



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