Sachs XTended

[sonic32]

Who has the Sachs XTended disk and how has it been holding up? What type of Driving do you expose it to and what flywheel is it paired to?


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[tars9]

I have less than 2k miles on it. Paired with new OEM DMFW and SS clutch line.

Honestly. It's fine. Not amazing. But okay. My S4 is my daily. And this clutch definitely has OEM drivability. Which is great. But I don't think it can hold DP power very well. Haven't tried launching. And won't. But had some slippage on a hard highway run in 4th the other day, which was disappointing.

Overall. Probably still the right decision for me because it's a daily. But would be nice to have a bit more grab.

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[sonic32]

I have less than 2k miles on it. Paired with new OEM DMFW and SS clutch line.

Honestly. It's fine. Not amazing. But okay. My S4 is my daily. And this clutch definitely has OEM drivability. Which is great. But I don't think it can hold DP power very well. Haven't tried launching. And won't. But had some slippage on a hard highway run in 4th the other day, which was disappointing.

Overall. Probably still the right decision for me because it's a daily. But would be nice to have a bit more grab.

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I know Vogz has had it for a while now and he had no slippage issues, hopefully he chimes in.
Also yours might’ve not fully broken in hence why it slipped. If you’re stage 2 not even stock clutch with miles on it slips while in gear


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[sonic32]

Bump


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[Charles]

I have it. I also have the SS valve-less clutch line. Flywheel is stock. I'm running DP and have yet to see any slippage issues. Been maybe 5K miles? I drive fairly aggressively, lots of wide open higher gear sprints when passing on the interstate. Some hard launches from a standstill. I've yet to hit the strip, so not sure what repeated drag runs would do. I find it a very easy clutch to manipulate and once you get used to the rather quick shifts a DP file requires, it's very fun. :)

[sonic32]

I have it. I also have the SS valve-less clutch line. Flywheel is stock. I'm running DP and have yet to see any slippage issues. Been maybe 5K miles? I drive fairly aggressively, lots of wide open higher gear sprints when passing on the interstate. Some hard launches from a standstill. I've yet to hit the strip, so not sure what repeated drag runs would do. I find it a very easy clutch to manipulate and once you get used to the rather quick shifts a DP file requires, it's very fun. :)

That’s really great to hear. New OEM flywheel or reused your stock flywheel?


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[eurotic]

I have it. I also have the SS valve-less clutch line. Flywheel is stock. I'm running DP and have yet to see any slippage issues. Been maybe 5K miles? I drive fairly aggressively, lots of wide open higher gear sprints when passing on the interstate. Some hard launches from a standstill. I've yet to hit the strip, so not sure what repeated drag runs would do. I find it a very easy clutch to manipulate and once you get used to the rather quick shifts a DP file requires, it's very fun. :)

Can you add a few more details about what pulleys you have and what software you are running? Also, do you daily drive the car? I assume it is stock-like feel and noise levels.


Shawn

[The Machine]

I have the Sachs Xtend clutch paired with the OEM DMFW from Rock Auto and SS clutch line from USP. So far I love the feel of the clutch and the car drives very nicely. I'm still in the break in period, but haven't had any issues so far. My S4 is my daily so I won't ever launch my car from a stand still or take it to the drag strip, so I think slipping should hopefully be non-existent for me. The most the car will ever see is some WOT pulls here and there on the highway.

Vogz swears by this setup and I went off of his word when I was texting with him about it, and I haven't been disappointed. He also did some runs recently at the drag strip and didn't have any slipping.

[sonic32]

I have the Sachs Xtend clutch paired with the OEM DMFW from Rock Auto and SS clutch line from USP. So far I love the feel of the clutch and the car drives very nicely. I'm still in the break in period, but haven't had any issues so far. My S4 is my daily so I won't ever launch my car from a stand still or take it to the drag strip, so I think slipping should hopefully be non-existent for me. The most the car will ever see is some WOT pulls here and there on the highway.

Vogz swears by this setup and I went off of his word when I was texting with him about it, and I haven't been disappointed. He also did some runs recently at the drag strip and didn't have any slipping.

What mileage does VOGZ have on that set up.
Went through 2 JHM clutches and an ECS flywheel. Currently I’m more money in clutch jobs than in mods in the car and I need to go with something that’s worry and issue free.


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[Ray Khan]

sonic32 is the car stock? A stock clutch might be a good option and pair it with the upgraded hard line to remove the delay valve. I'm still on my stock clutch at 95k.

[sonic32]

sonic32 is the car stock? A stock clutch might be a good option and pair it with the upgraded hard line to remove the delay valve. I'm still on my stock clutch at 95k.

stage 2 GIAC, CMD test pipes, APR CPS V2. I kept upgrading the clutch so i can finally go Dual Pulleys but it seems like JHM is not the way to go under any circumstances. JHM Stage 4 held good but pressure plate must've went haywire and on consecutive shifts over 5400 rpms pedal would stay on the floor, regardless of throttle %. It was paired with ECS SM LWFW. Got it exchanged for stage 3R from their new R clutch line and the disk started slipping after 1900 miles. I figured it was the flywheel so i pulled it out got it resurfaced and brought to the step height advised by JHM and still wouldn't hold anything more than 5% throttle with the car in valet mode.

[KRp220]

stage 2 GIAC, CMD test pipes, APR CPS V2. I kept upgrading the clutch so i can finally go Dual Pulleys but it seems like JHM is not the way to go under any circumstances. JHM Stage 4 held good but pressure plate must've went haywire and on consecutive shifts over 5400 rpms pedal would stay on the floor, regardless of throttle %. It was paired with ECS SM LWFW. Got it exchanged for stage 3R from their new R clutch line and the disk started slipping after 1900 miles. I figured it was the flywheel so i pulled it out got it resurfaced and brought to the step height advised by JHM and still wouldn't hold anything more than 5% throttle with the car in valet mode.

recently went with a South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch after my stock clutch started slipping post GIAC dual pulley. still in the break in stage, but it feels good at the moment. should have more than enough holding power so i never have to deal with upgrading in the future

[sonic32]

recently went with a South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch after my stock clutch started slipping post GIAC dual pulley. still in the break in stage, but it feels good at the moment. should have more than enough holding power so i never have to deal with upgrading in the future

i thought the same with the JHM clutches. One lasted 10k miles the other 2k miles. Sachs Xtended costs less than half than all other aftermarket options. I know of absolutely way too many aftermarket clutch failures on these cars across every aftermarket company who makes one so i prefer to stay as close as possible to OEM this time.

[KRp220]

i thought the same with the JHM clutches. One lasted 10k miles the other 2k miles. Sachs Xtended costs less than half than all other aftermarket options. I know of absolutely way too many aftermarket clutch failures on these cars across every aftermarket company who makes one so i prefer to stay as close as possible to OEM this time.

I don’t follow your logic by wanting to stay as close to OEM Asa possible, since that’s where the problem started, but to each their own.

My shop said that south bend has amazing customer service, so, should something happen, I know I’m covered there (to an extent)

Also, my clutch is rated for like 600hp/tq which my car will never have


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[Vogz]

My Sachs XTend has been fantastic. Almost 10k miles on it now. Just went to strip last week and was able to pull a 1.71 60ft on my third pass on race gas file. Smelled a little clutch back in pits after that pass but it didn't slip and has never slipped on street. I would highly recommend it for anyone that doesn't constantly launch their car.

I'm also running a LUK dual mass flywheel from rock auto


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[Vogz]

I don’t follow your logic by wanting to stay as close to OEM Asa possible, since that’s where the problem started, but to each their own.

My shop said that south bend has amazing customer service, so, should something happen, I know I’m covered there (to an extent)

Also, my clutch is rated for like 600hp/tq which my car will never have


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The idea is not to have more clutch that you need and affect driveability/reliability. I will never again run a clutch with a non-organic disc on a daily driver. The Sachs Clutch is plenty strong to hold stage 2+ power on the street. Really no reason for a more aggressive clutch that will hurt driveability and transfer far more shock to other more expensive drivetrain parts on launches and shifts.


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[KRp220]

The idea is not to have more clutch that you need and affect driveability/reliability. I will never again run a clutch with a non-organic disc on a daily driver. The Sachs Clutch is plenty strong to hold stage 2+ power on the street. Really no reason for a more aggressive clutch that will hurt driveability and transfer far more shock to other more expensive drivetrain parts on launches and shifts.


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I see your point, but I was just not willing to have to deal with replacing a clutch again. It’s not a job I can do myself and would rather pay labor just once. I’m still in the break in period... it’s grabby for sure but not unreasonable. Time will tell


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[Jflow23]

My Sach XTend is holding up just fine...been about 3500 miles. I'm EPL DP 57/194 with headers and USP clutch line. No slip on highway pulls ever...nor full throttle passing in 6th gear. My stock clutch slipped full throttle in 4-6th gear on DP power. I haven't aggressively launched...but no issues with spirited take offs.

[Polo77]

Wow, really sounds like majority clutch options for this platform is shitting the bag. I’m not in need of a clutch upgrade yet. Currently just have a stage 1 CW but I plan on getting to dual pulley power. I was recommended the jhm 3R but not I’m starting to second guess ugh. Harder to commit to a clutch than a woman ffs lol


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[Vogz]

Wow, really sounds like majority clutch options for this platform is shitting the bag. I’m not in need of a clutch upgrade yet. Currently just have a stage 1 CW but I plan on getting to dual pulley power. I was recommended the jhm 3R but not I’m starting to second guess ugh. Harder to commit to a clutch than a woman ffs lol


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It's really an easy decision at this point. Do you launch your car hard regularly or plan on taking it to the drag strip regularly? If so, grab a JHM 3R or Southbend stage 3+. If you're not constantly launching the car and just want to be able to hold DP power, the Sachs XTend is perfect.

[Vogz]

I have less than 2k miles on it. Paired with new OEM DMFW and SS clutch line.

Honestly. It's fine. Not amazing. But okay. My S4 is my daily. And this clutch definitely has OEM drivability. Which is great. But I don't think it can hold DP power very well. Haven't tried launching. And won't. But had some slippage on a hard highway run in 4th the other day, which was disappointing.

Overall. Probably still the right decision for me because it's a daily. But would be nice to have a bit more grab.

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Based on everyone else having zero issues with holding capacity, either something is wrong with your clutch or you heat the disc too much in normal driving before highway pulls.

I've launched the car on a stage 2 race file on a sticky drag strip and didn't have slip. That will put far more stress on the clutch than a highway pull in 4th gear.

[Polo77]

It's really an easy decision at this point. Do you launch your car hard regularly or plan on taking it to the drag strip regularly? If so, grab a JHM 3R or Southbend stage 3+. If you're not constantly launching the car and just want to be able to hold DP power, the Sachs XTend is perfect.

I won’t be going to the track really, my car is just my bagged daily at the moment. But I figure if I’m splitting the tranny, I should put something beefy in there as I’ve tried to launch the car and I’m getting major slip from hard 1-2 shifts. Rpms just but Car doesn’t move... I’d rather not have to pop open the tranny twice.


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[Vogz]

I won’t be going to the track really, my car is just my bagged daily at the moment. But I figure if I’m splitting the tranny, I should put something beefy in there as I’ve tried to launch the car and I’m getting major slip from hard 1-2 shifts. Rpms just but Car doesn’t move... I’d rather not have to pop open the tranny twice.


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That's the mistake many people make. Installing a "beefy" clutch that is overkill for 99% of your driving is far more likely to have you pulling transmission twice than a clutch that is just right for the job. I'm on my second new clutch in 3 years because I didn't take my own advice. I had a EuroCode Stage 3 prior to the Sachs XTend. Engagement was harsh most of the time and it made my car only fun to drive when I drove it really hard. Plus, I started having problems with the clutch in less than 10K miles which ruined even the driving hard part.

The Sachs clutch will NOT slip on launches or hard 1-2 shifts if it's broken in properly.

[Charles]

That’s really great to hear. New OEM flywheel or reused your stock flywheel?

Reused the FW that came with the car. Pretty much as soon as I went to Stage 1, stock clutch started slipping. I really had to slowly gas it any time I was on the interstate in 4th-6th. Mechanic said the stock FW looked good. Cleaned it up and put it back in. So far, so good (knock on wood). :)

Can you add a few more details about what pulleys you have and what software you are running? Also, do you daily drive the car? I assume it is stock-like feel and noise levels.


Shawn

Single KI 200mm crank pulley, 034 DP file. Daily drive, and yeah, pretty much drives like stock...but no slipping.

[sonic32]

I see your point, but I was just not willing to have to deal with replacing a clutch again. It’s not a job I can do myself and would rather pay labor just once. I’m still in the break in period... it’s grabby for sure but not unreasonable. Time will tell


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If you did a stage IV JHM and after 10k miles it shit the bed and pedal would stay on the floor at high rpm shifts, regardless of throttle %, and then you did a JHM stage 3R after and it started slipping after 2000 miles and you are in over 7k in clutch jobs, parts, and misc shit and you had the transmission out 4 times, what clutch would you go with after all that ordeal?

[sonic32]

That's the mistake many people make. Installing a "beefy" clutch that is overkill for 99% of your driving is far more likely to have you pulling transmission twice than a clutch that is just right for the job. I'm on my second new clutch in 3 years because I didn't take my own advice. I had a EuroCode Stage 3 prior to the Sachs XTend. Engagement was harsh most of the time and it made my car only fun to drive when I drove it really hard. Plus, I started having problems with the clutch in less than 10K miles which ruined even the driving hard part.

The Sachs clutch will NOT slip on launches or hard 1-2 shifts if it's broken in properly.

I completely agree 100%. JHM stage IV with ECS LWFW was a drag to drive on daily duties, had to be slipped considerably more than stock for take offs in 1st and R and it was more of an on and off engagement which for hard driving was completely amazing but im done hard driving this car with this stupid clutch/fw design so sachs Xtend with OEM flywheel should be great. I drove my buddies stock car with stock clutch and it was just so effortless, quiet and smooth lol
also, what break in procedure did you follow? 500 easy city miles, with no high load in a high gear at low rpms? I had to break in the JHM stage IV for 1000 miles and the stage 3R for 500. The stage IV never slipped on me and i never smelt it no matter what i threw at it lol

[KRp220]

If you did a stage IV JHM and after 10k miles it shit the bed and pedal would stay on the floor at high rpm shifts, regardless of throttle %, and then you did a JHM stage 3R after and it started slipping after 2000 miles and you are in over 7k in clutch jobs, parts, and misc shit and you had the transmission out 4 times, what clutch would you go with after all that ordeal?

is that a legit question or snarky sarcasm?
i didn't go with JHm for those reasons, and went with a cluth that my shop recommended, and a brand they have a relationship with
but to answer your question, not JHM
i would either go with a clutch that was rated for far beyond what i needed OR reduce my power, change my driving style, or sell my car.

[sonic32]

is that a legit question or snarky sarcasm?
i didn't go with JHm for those reasons, and went with a cluth that my shop recommended, and a brand they have a relationship with
but to answer your question, not JHM
i would either go with a clutch that was rated for far beyond what i needed OR reduce my power, change my driving style, or sell my car.

It was a legit question, im not here to be a dick or waste my time or anybody's, im looking for legitimate advice and experiences because im sick and tired of dealing with same issue over and over again.
Unfortunately my shop didn't have any relationship with any clutch companies first time i did this. Well, actually they did with a company who made custom high strength high horsepower clutches who weren't interested in dabbling with a car that had readily available aftermarket options and will never see over 400 wtq. My car put down 350wtq, JHM stage IV is rated for 650tq and 3R is rated for 590tq and i was assured they would get the job done no problem. After the first time the 3R slipped last month i dropped the car to valet mode and had no problem with parting it and driving it like that but it didnt even last on valet mode and if i do indeed sell it i can't sell it the way it is so a clutch must go back in hence the point of this thread.

[KRp220]

It was a legit question, im not here to be a dick or waste my time or anybody's, im looking for legitimate advice and experiences because im sick and tired of dealing with same issue over and over again.
Unfortunately my shop didn't have any relationship with any clutch companies first time i did this. Well, actually they did with a company who made custom high strength high horsepower clutches who weren't interested in dabbling with a car that had readily available aftermarket options and will never see over 400 wtq. My car put down 350wtq, JHM stage IV is rated for 650tq and 3R is rated for 590tq and i was assured they would get the job done no problem. After the first time the 3R slipped last month i dropped the car to valet mode and had no problem with parting it and driving it like that but it didnt even last on valet mode and if i do indeed sell it i can't sell it the way it is so a clutch must go back in hence the point of this thread.

gotcha. i wasn't accusing you of being snarky, i honeslty just wasn't sure, an i also didnt realize that both the JHM clutchs were rated for that torque level
i think JHM was/is a huge, reputable player with the B6/B7 chassis, but i read too many reviews (like yours) to trust them with their clutch.
i would be super pissed if i were in your scenario... thats a lot of wasted money and a lot of frustration. break in periods suck too
did you talk to JHM about a refund, credit, or ask for any insight why both failed?
i can only provide my reasoning behind going with what i did, but i don;t have much insight on performance since i'm only 500 miles in.

regardless, good luck. hopefully you find a solid solution. sorry i can't be of more help

[Vogz]

I completely agree 100%. JHM stage IV with ECS LWFW was a drag to drive on daily duties, had to be slipped considerably more than stock for take offs in 1st and R and it was more of an on and off engagement which for hard driving was completely amazing but im done hard driving this car with this stupid clutch/fw design so sachs Xtend with OEM flywheel should be great. I drove my buddies stock car with stock clutch and it was just so effortless, quiet and smooth lol
also, what break in procedure did you follow? 500 easy city miles, with no high load in a high gear at low rpms? I had to break in the JHM stage IV for 1000 miles and the stage 3R for 500. The stage IV never slipped on me and i never smelt it no matter what i threw at it lol

Yea, I did about 500 city miles taking it really easy. Kept it under 4000rpm and tried to keep it out of boost.

[sonic32]

Yea, I did about 500 city miles taking it really easy. Kept it under 4000rpm and tried to keep it out of boost.

Gonna do mine in valet mode haha
Thanks a lot your input is very useful and much appreciated


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[Vogz]

Gonna do mine in valet mode haha
Thanks a lot your input is very useful and much appreciated


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No problem! Glad to help.


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[Jgm22]

Now that the JHM Clutch Group buy is dead......We should start a Sachs Extend or south Bend Group buy

[sonic32]

Now that the JHM Clutch Group buy is dead......We should start a Sachs Extend or south Bend Group buy

Why is it dead?
And I’m in for sachs GB. I trust Sachs because they make the OEM one and it’s cheap. I’m done trying out aftermarket companies


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[jlaudio]

Sachs is an OEM part maker with zero presence on Audi enthusiast forums. Good luck getting them to do a group buy. I'd also recommend buying direct from Sachs on their website - pay attention to exchange rates EU to USD and buy on a low, when i bought mine in january it was close to 475 shipped from germany in 2 days. the 538 price on the site includes the 19% VAT that is removed on the final bill before shipping.

By the way I love mine. I have 2k miles on it, Giac stage 2 and it's been great to drive. I honestly don't believe the kevlar material clutches are needed for our cars even with DP.

[Vogz]

Sachs is an OEM part maker with zero presence on Audi enthusiast forums. Good luck getting them to do a group buy. I'd also recommend buying direct from Sachs on their website - pay attention to exchange rates EU to USD and buy on a low, when i bought mine in january it was close to 475 shipped from germany in 2 days. the 538 price on the site includes the 19% VAT that is removed on the final bill before shipping.

By the way I love mine. I have 2k miles on it, Giac stage 2 and it's been great to drive. I honestly don't believe the kevlar material clutches are needed for our cars even with DP.

Exactly what I've been saying. A little more clamping force over stock and the new clutch line is a recipe for success.

[B8Addict]

How are people slipping on stage 1 or 2 with a stock clutch? I am currently stage 2+ and have had no issues with slippage under WOT shifts. I have not launched, nor will I though. :)

[Polo77]

Now that the JHM Clutch Group buy is dead......We should start a Sachs Extend or south Bend Group buy

Already spoke to south bend.. I was really trying hard to get a group buy going. South
bend can only offer us 10 percent off.

However, if someone registers a company. We can save 25%. Minimum order has to be 10k though. Problem is all the clutches will have to ship to one location.


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[sonic32]

Already spoke to south bend.. I was really trying hard to get a group buy going. South
bend can only offer us 10 percent off.

However, if someone registers a company. We can save 25%. Minimum order has to be 10k though. Problem is all the clutches will have to ship to one location.


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I have no interest in southbend. They shit the bed just like JHM and eurocode


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[Vogz]

How are people slipping on stage 1 or 2 with a stock clutch? I am currently stage 2+ and have had no issues with slippage under WOT shifts. I have not launched, nor will I though. :)

I didn't have any issues with my stock clutch on stage 2 power until I tried to launch it a couple times. I also had 40k miles on the stocker. It's all about heat management and how people drive their cars. Organic clutches don't fair well when they get a lot of heat in them so if someone is slipping a clutch a bit more in normal driving they can build up more heat and have issues with WOT shifts, especially if they aren't a fast shifter.