Front control arm job - time to replace and any tips?

[caldy315]

Searched but didn't see much for a DIY or anything recently.

I'm in the midwest so there is salt on the roads. I know the pinch bolt is going to be the hardest thing based on research. Been spraying it with penetrating oil for a couple days. Looking to find some time to replace the whole kit and kaboodle. Bought a kit from B6Option3 kit from FCP I believe.

I know there are are couple things a person needs to do. Penetrating oil is one of them and torque the nuts once you have the weight of the car on the arms. I plan to take hub to fender measurements and then just jack the hub up to that height while on stands. No way would I be able to reach in there when the car is on the ground.

So couple quick questions. What has it taken you to do this time wise? I'm just a shadetree wrencher and work on my own stuff. I just want to know if its a day with a rusty pinch bolt or 4 days (/exaggeration)? Also does a person have to remove the whole upper strut assembly or can they get a box end wrench tucked between the spring and assembly at the top? I assume liberal amounts of antiseize should go on the new pinch bolt during installation?

Lastly do I replace everything? The steering on my USP is still really tight, just the rubber bushings are trashed in the arms. I have almost 200k and to my knowledge none of it's been replaced.

[fR3ZNO]

A few tips:

1. for the upper control arms, I find it's much easier to remove the strut assembly and do it outside the car. Just do the arms one at a time and match the orientation angle with the old one when installing the new one.

2. I find the pinch bolt to be a lot hassle with the aluminum uprights than they are on the B5 and older models with steel uprights. If you have access to an air hammer, that will make your life a lot easier to drive the pinch bolt out, should it give you issues. Also, use anti seize on the pinch bolt. You can also look at local hardware stores and see if they have the size you need in stainless. M10x100 is the size of the pinch bolt.

3. I would say depending on how quickly you work, it can be done in a weekend.

4. If you're in there, I replace whatever came in your control arm kit. Does the option 3 kit come with tie rods (inner and outer)? Doing just outer tie rod ends is usually a pain since the threads seize into the inner tie rod.

[Axis]

Have spare pinch bolts before you start the job.

[SJorge3442]

soaking it is already a good first step. I also recommend having an impact handy. The stress from a ratchet or wrench will increase the odds of snapping that bolt. Also remember, that you need to just break it loose, so dont be afraid to use an impact and "tighten" the bolt (after nut is off) as you are taking it out. I did a series of forward and reverse hit with my impact and it came out perfect and my car was 10 years old, original arms at the time.

[diztek]

my tip would be, buy nice or buy twice. do not cheap out on the control arms.

[Fast4esT]

Do the strut mount bushings too!

[2004a4b630QT]

I'm getting ready to do this too. Using technique from Old Guy and others and the Bentley video in this thread:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...tupid-bolt-out!!!!

You definitely need new pinch bolts and anti-seize of some kind (Old guy recommends neverseize).
Impact tools are highly recommended, and some (Slickfix for one I believe) couldn't even budge it with them.

I plan to attack the bolts as the first part of a multi-project rather than hope I can get it all done at once. If you don't cook your ball joints, you can work on the pinch bolts, and replace them with new ones and rest up and do the actual replacements another day. My bolts don't look bad but from what I've read appearance means little. Aluminum + steel + salt and snow + 1.5 decades means it's gonna be tough regardless.

For penetrating oil, I'm gonna try the 50/50 ATF/Acetone as it's reported to work much better than PB Blaster or any of the others.

I actually need to do my steering rack and wheel bearings/hubs as well, so getting it all done in one weekend is pretty much out of the question anyway.

Is the FCP group buy a good idea? I know some are saying OEM or bust, but I really can't afford OEM so if I can get 30-40K out of the FCP set, I can live with replacing them again.
Any thoughts on doing just uppers if the lowers seem ok versus doing the whole thing including stabilizer links? I'll do the tie rod ends (s4 all metal) when I do the rack.

Someone also recommended pinch bolt maintenance. Meaning don't just fix it and forget it. If you are in a snow climate, remove your pinch bolt once or more per year and re-slather it with anti-seize. Sounds extreme but maybe it's warranted?

[coffeysm]

I'm getting ready to do this too. Using technique from Old Guy and others and the Bentley video in this thread:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...tupid-bolt-out!!!!

You definitely need new pinch bolts and anti-seize of some kind (Old guy recommends neverseize).
Impact tools are highly recommended, and some (Slickfix for one I believe) couldn't even budge it with them.

I plan to attack the bolts as the first part of a multi-project rather than hope I can get it all done at once. If you don't cook your ball joints, you can work on the pinch bolts, and replace them with new ones and rest up and do the actual replacements another day. My bolts don't look bad but from what I've read appearance means little. Aluminum + steel + salt and snow + 1.5 decades means it's gonna be tough regardless.

For penetrating oil, I'm gonna try the 50/50 ATF/Acetone as it seems to work much better than PB Blaster or any of the others.

I actually need to do my steering rack and wheel bearings/hubs as well, so getting it all done in one weekend is pretty much out of the question anyway.

Is the FCP group buy a good idea? I know some are saying OEM or bust, but I really can't afford OEM so if I can get 30-40K out of the FCP set, I can live with replacing them again.
Any thoughts on doing just uppers if the lowers seem ok versus doing the whole thing including stabilizer links? I'll do the tie rod ends (s4 all metal) when I do the rack.

I've never used neverseize, but I do know a lot of mechanics swear by it. Personally, I use Permatex silver antiseize and haven't had any issues.

I did my struts, control arms, and inner/outer ties rods about two years ago around 180K miles. I forgot which parts I ordered from FCP, but they were pretty cheap and now I have a horrible squeaking/clunking on the right front side. I haven't attempted to troubleshoot it yet though to see if it's my control arms or something else. They do offer lifetime replacement on parts, so I might have to take it off for a replacement if that's what it ends up being.

I would get yourself some MAPP gas, ratcheting wrenches, and some kind of an impact gun. I used the 30 dollar corded electric one from Harbor Freight, but now I have a cordless Milwaukee I love. I'd also buy the 30 dollar kit from FCP with all brand new bolts in it, so you don't have to go tracking them down.

The sway bar end links I bought were junk, so I kept the OEM ones and I think they were Karlyn's. I have an 04 3.0 and they didn't fit right at all even though they were "supposed" to.

I tried using ATF/Acetone a few times, but never had success with it. I usually go with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or right to the MAPP gas and then use some wax to get into the threads after it's heated.

I got my pinch bolt out with some heat and a punch set from Harbor Freight.

[caldy315]

A few tips:
4. If you're in there, I replace whatever came in your control arm kit. Does the option 3 kit come with tie rods (inner and outer)? Doing just outer tie rod ends is usually a pain since the threads seize into the inner tie rod.

This is what the kit comes with. Looks to be everything. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...o-b6option3kit I'm just leery that if my steering feels great now, if I should even mess with it. Does the pinch bolt need to come out to replace the tie rods?

Have spare pinch bolts before you start the job.

I heard the recommendation of stainless before. Need to find a place that carries them. Where have y'all found them, Ace, Lowes?

soaking it is already a good first step. I also recommend having an impact handy. The stress from a ratchet or wrench will increase the odds of snapping that bolt. Also remember, that you need to just break it loose, so dont be afraid to use an impact and "tighten" the bolt (after nut is off) as you are taking it out. I did a series of forward and reverse hit with my impact and it came out perfect and my car was 10 years old, original arms at the time.

Don't have any pneumatic tools, but have a Makita impact. I doubt that'll do anything so I'll have to get creative, maybe borrow a buddy's electric impact.

my tip would be, buy nice or buy twice. do not cheap out on the control arms.

I would agree with you. Only intend to have the car for another year or two and it already has almost 200k. This will have to suffice this time.

I plan to attack the bolts as the first part of a multi-project rather than hope I can get it all done at once. If you don't cook your ball joints, you can work on the pinch bolts, and replace them with new ones and rest up and do the actual replacements another day. My bolts don't look bad but from what I've read appearance means little. Aluminum + steel + salt and snow + 1.5 decades means it's gonna be tough regardless.

For penetrating oil, I'm gonna try the 50/50 ATF/Acetone as it's reported to work much better than PB Blaster or any of the others.

Maybe not a half bad idea to try and loosen the bolts first. I've been spraying PB Blaster and have had great luck with before so we'll see.


Thanks to all those that commented, super helpful.

[fR3ZNO]

This is what the kit comes with. Looks to be everything. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...o-b6option3kit I'm just leery that if my steering feels great now, if I should even mess with it. Does the pinch bolt need to come out to replace the tie rods?


I heard the recommendation of stainless before. Need to find a place that carries them. Where have y'all found them, Ace, Lowes?

If you've got the parts, I would say replace them. If your tie end rods look okay and don't have any play you could leave them alone for now.

If you do replace the tie rods ends, you will also need new steering rack boots too, because they'll get mangled and torn trying to remove them.

As for stainless bolts, I've never had luck at the Lowes in my town finding a M10x100, but doesn't hurt to look. Check out a Fastenal too if you've got one nearby.

[2004a4b630QT]

This is what the kit comes with. Looks to be everything. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...o-b6option3kit I'm just leery that if my steering feels great now, if I should even mess with it. Does the pinch bolt need to come out to replace the tie rods?

I think an alignment is required when doing the control arms, so doing the tie rods too would save you needing an extra alignment later when your current rods wear out. Can someone verify if this is true?
I plan on doing the rack and arms within the course of a month or so, and am just going to drive it out of alignment till it's finished.

[fR3ZNO]

I think an alignment is required when doing the control arms, so doing the tie rods too would save you needing an extra alignment later when your current rods wear out. Can someone verify if this is true?
I plan on doing the rack and arms within the course of a month or so, and am just going to drive it out of alignment till it's finished.

Yes, you should get an alignment after doing the control arms, but it's not overly necessary because the only adjustment in the front are the tie rods.

But if you change the tie rods and/or rack, then you should definitely get one.

[Wet0willy01]

P B Blaster them for a while before the job. I did every few days for a week. Removed the spindle and strut mount and removed the pinch bolt outside the car with an impact, MAP gas torch and one needed a tap from a punch.

[Kevin C]

Ball joint tool for the lowers... It helps keep the steel insert in the steering knuckle.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html

I pressed in B7 / RS4 upper bushing (or you could get real B7 uppers, a lot of aftermarket B7 uppers actually have the B6 upper bushings). The B7 upper bushing has a thicker center section making it a bit stiffer.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/8d0407515c/

I bought a FEBI kit. Two years and 15,000 miles with no problems.

Also, you live in a road salt area. My guess is your pinch bolt may be an issue. You could get the uppers out with the steering knuckle and bring the whole mess to a machine shop. Also there are special tools to remove a stuck pinch bolt.

[2004a4b630QT]

Ball joint tool for the lowers... It helps keep the steel insert in the steering knuckle.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html

I pressed in B7 / RS4 upper bushing (or you could get real B7 uppers, a lot of aftermarket B7 uppers actually have the B6 upper bushings). The B7 upper bushing has a thicker center section making it a bit stiffer.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/8d0407515c/

I bought a FEBI kit. Two years and 15,000 miles with no problems.

The FEBI kit is almost as expensive as the OE (correction: not even close but still the most expensive of the aftermarket kits not counting the heavy duty ones). Isn't FEBI the OEM for the Audi arms?
Did you press the bushing in yourself? Was it difficult? I was thinking of this as a way to cheaply keep my OE arms but most say it's not worth it and I always see bushings for sale, but not the ball joint part.

[Kevin C]

The FEBI kit is almost as expensive as the OE (correction: not even close but still the most expensive of the aftermarket kits not counting the heavy duty ones). Isn't FEBI the OEM for the Audi arms?
Did you press the bushing in yourself? Was it difficult? I was thinking of this as a way to cheaply keep my OE arms but most say it's not worth it and I always see bushings for sale, but not the ball joint part.

OEM $1423, Febi kit is about $494, Meyle is $499, 034 Density is $525. So what you're saying is that the Febi is the most expensive kit if you don't count the more expensive kits? Seriously there seems to be three tiers of pricing... OEM, mid priced kits in the $450 to $600 range and bargain kits in the $300 range.

For a set of German made control arms the price seemed more that fair. I ran a set of Meyle's on my B5 and the tie rods ends didn't hold up (noisy after about 40,000 miles) and one lower control arm went bad in under 20,000 miles ( bad grease seal that allowed water to get in).

As far as pressing bushings in. I have a 20 ton press and the bushing press in so easily it's silly. You definitely need decent press and a simple fixtures to press them with.

[2004a4b630QT]

OEM $1423, Febi kit is about $494, Meyle is $499, 034 Density is $525. So what you're saying is that the Febi is the most expensive kit if you don't count the more expensive kits? Seriously there seems to be three tiers of pricing... OEM, mid priced kits in the $450 to $600 range and bargain kits in the $300 range.

For a set of German made control arms the price seemed more that fair. I ran a set of Meyle's on my B5 and the tie rods ends didn't hold up (noisy after about 40,000 miles) and one lower control arm went bad in under 20,000 miles ( bad grease seal that allowed water to get in).

As far as pressing bushings in. I have a 20 ton press and the bushing press in so easily it's silly. You definitely need decent press and a simple fixtures to press them with.

Right, the Meyle Hd and 034 are the ones considered heavy duty (or performance duty with the 034's) with the Febi being highest price of the regular arms not counting the insanely priced OE ones. I also didn't realize until reading elsewhere that the ball joint part can't be replaced (pressed in/out), only the bushing. Since I'm almost at 100K, it wouldn't make sense to just press the bushings and expect the ball joints to last much longer.
I don't doubt the Febi are worth it, but right now I can't afford them given I need to do the steering rack and all 4 wheel bearings soon too. And possibly the steering pump. So I may have to go wtih the FCP group buy and deal with it all again in 20-30K. Thanks for the info.

[rick123]

The FEBI kit is almost as expensive as the OE (correction: not even close but still the most expensive of the aftermarket kits not counting the heavy duty ones). Isn't FEBI the OEM for the Audi arms?
Did you press the bushing in yourself? Was it difficult? I was thinking of this as a way to cheaply keep my OE arms but most say it's not worth it and I always see bushings for sale, but not the ball joint part.

FEBI isn't the OE manufacturer for these, that's either Lemförder or TRW depending on god knows what.

[2004a4b630QT]

FEBI isn't the OE manufacturer for these, that's either Lemförder or TRW depending on god knows what.

That makes sense since those 2 are the most expensive 3rd party brands for individual arms. Neither offers a kit, at least not on ECS. Always good to know who the non-branded OEM's are since Audi clearly charges a huge premium for their branded parts. Thanks.

[Fast4esT]

I'm going to tackle this next week sometime, I'll keep track of time and any difficulties. Luckily I have access to a lift

[Kevin C]

Right, the Meyle Hd and 034 are the ones considered heavy duty (or performance duty with the 034's) with the Febi being highest price of the regular arms not counting the insanely priced OE ones. I also didn't realize until reading elsewhere that the ball joint part can't be replaced (pressed in/out), only the bushing. Since I'm almost at 100K, it wouldn't make sense to just press the bushings and expect the ball joints to last much longer.
I don't doubt the Febi are worth it, but right now I can't afford them given I need to do the steering rack and all 4 wheel bearings soon too. And possibly the steering pump. So I may have to go with the FCP group buy and deal with it all again in 20-30K. Thanks for the info.

Most of the slop issues can be traced to bad bushings. The joints on my factory arms at 140,000 miles were still good. The only problem they had was they needed to be re-lubed, I went with new arms.

The Meyle parts are marketed as heavy duty. They claim better than OEM performance but three of their parts failed in less than 1/2 the time of the same factory part. Heavy Duty is a marketing term and they don't have to back that claim up in any way. Their redesigned tie rod ends? They had a list of improvements and reasons why they were superior to the OEM part but they didnt last very long. Clever improvements that were not well executed and only look good on paper. In some cases I'm sure they have a better part than OEM, but it's not a slam dunk.

Febi doesn't make any claims one way or the other ( they claim OEM equivalent performance), and I'm OK with that if the part is correctly designed and manufactured. If the FEBI arms don't hold up I would consider going for Lemforders and TRW's. They don't claim to be HD but are still considered to be the best. On my B5, after the Mahle HD were trashed I went with Febi's on the uppers and a combo of Lemforder and TRW for the lowers. That combo held up really well.

The 034 arms claim to use a higher durometer rubber but then use the less stiff standard B6 bushing on the uppers ( instead of the improved S4/ B7 bushings). They may be a decent set, I never tried them, either way I make a point of putting in the later model upper bushing.

Short story is companies have marketing departments that look to find ways to find ways to distinguish their brand. That includes claiming why their product is better, unfortunately that is not always true (or an exaggeration). A solid marketing tactic is to price your product higher and claim its better. That gives you position and plays on the belief that more expensive must be better.

[2004a4b630QT]

Most of the slop issues can be traced to bad bushings. The joints on my factory arms at 140,000 miles were still good. The only problem they had was they needed to be re-lubed, I went with new arms.

Hmm, now I'm interested in fixing again. 140K on the ball joint and it just needs lubrication? So the bushing is the only part that fails at 50K or so. Interesting. A harbor freight 20 ton press is only 170USD (plus another 100-150 for press cups and plates) and I could press out/in new bushings at a fraction of the cost of buying OEM quality (incl Lemforder/TRW or even the more affordable Febi). I looked up greasing the ball joint and some say you can drill a tiny hole through the boot, inject grease using a NAPA grease gun with syringe attachment, and then seal the hole with silicone.

Then I could also save money by not buying integrated ECS hub/wheel bearings and press my own bearings too.

Not to mention the experience and skills learned when doing this stuff myself interests me too. Sure, it's easier to buy new arms if money is less of an issue and free time is more of an issue. Even easier to pay to have them done. But given the amount of work my car needs in the short term, the significant savings even with the start-up tool cost might be worth it. Unless the labor ends up being so brutal as to drive me mad of course. :)
Definitely something for me to think about.

[DJMurphy]

Both of my pinch bolts snapped below the head. Easiest way to get them out after that was to just tighten the nut on the other end and it pulled the bolt out.

You'll need a zip wheel or hacksaw to trim the bolt as it comes out, and a couple of washers as you run out of thread but it was easiest way for me.

[2004a4b630QT]

Both of my pinch bolts snapped below the head. Easiest way to get them out after that was to just tighten the nut on the other end and it pulled the bolt out.

You'll need a zip wheel or hacksaw to trim the bolt as it comes out, and a couple of washers as you run out of thread but it was easiest way for me.

I've seen a diy on this. They recommended using more and more washers as the bolt comes out, but cutting seems to make more sense. This also seems like a near foolproof method and could be done without power tools except maybe a dremel. Did you need to use heat too? I really want to preserve my ball joints if I can and not heat the aluminum too much. I wonder if anyone has been unsuccessful using this method.

[old guy]

I have dealt with a few stubborn pinch bolts. Here's my recommendation.

Presoak the nut/bolt with PB Blaster or similar several times prior to the removal. Remove the nut. Spray the exposed threads. Use a propane torch to gently heat the knuckle. You don't have to heat it enough to affect the ball joint. Just gentle heat.

Mark both ends of the bolt. You want to do this so you will be able to tell if you are actually turning the bolt or simply twisting it off. You really want to avoid twisting it off.

Using your air impact wrench you want to alternate between clockwise/counterclockwise. hit it a few seconds in one direction then reverse and hit it for a few seconds in the other direction. Re-apply a little heat and spray again with PB Blaster. Go another round with the impact wrench. Keep an eye on the bolt marks as you go. Continue to repeat this process until you see the mark on the thread end turn indicating that the bolt is now loose.

You may have to repeat the heat/spray/impact cycle multiple times but it will eventually free up the bolt. Believe me, it's well worth taking your time with this method and not have to deal with hammering out broken bolt sections.

Good luck!

[2004a4b630QT]

I have dealt with a few stubborn pinch bolts. Here's my recommendation.

Presoak the nut/bolt with PB Blaster or similar several times prior to the removal. Remove the nut. Spray the exposed threads. Use a propane torch to gently heat the knuckle. You don't have to heat it enough to affect the ball joint. Just gentle heat.

Mark both ends of the bolt. You want to do this so you will be able to tell if you are actually turning the bolt or simply twisting it off. You really want to avoid twisting it off.

Using your air impact wrench you want to alternate between clockwise/counterclockwise. hit it a few seconds in one direction then reverse and hit it for a few seconds in the other direction. Re-apply a little heat and spray again with PB Blaster. Go another round with the impact wrench. Keep an eye on the bolt marks as you go. Continue to repeat this process until you see the mark on the thread end turn indicating that the bolt is now loose.

You may have to repeat the heat/spray/impact cycle multiple times but it will eventually free up the bolt. Believe me, it's well worth taking your time with this method and not have to deal with hammering out broken bolt sections.

Good luck!

Sounds good. You mentioned in your other thread that you only need the cheapest Cobalt impact from Lowes (they are only around 400 lbs of torque). Would a more powerful one like the Earthquake XT from Harbor Freight help more or risk breaking the bolt?
You also state that you set the air at 100psi. If using something like the Earthquake with around 900+lbs torque, should the psi be lower than 100? I'm lucky enough to currently have access to an 80 gallon 7hp 15cfm husky compressor but am an air tool newbie and haven't bought my first impact wrench yet.
Thanks.

[old guy]

I also have a Kobalt 700. It's slightly less powerful than the Earthquake but it can be way too much for the pinch bolt. Either of those are capable of quickly destroying the pinch bolt. You can use the Earthquake but I would recommend starting with a lower air pressure and only hit it back and forth for short bursts at a time.

Again, just take your time with gentle heat, penetrating oil and cycle reps. It will eventually break loose.

[caldy315]

I also have a Kobalt 700. It's slightly less powerful than the Earthquake but it can be way too much for the pinch bolt. Either of those are capable of quickly destroying the pinch bolt. You can use the Earthquake but I would recommend starting with a lower air pressure and only hit it back and forth for short bursts at a time.

Again, just take your time with gentle heat, penetrating oil and cycle reps. It will eventually break loose.

My assumption is a 3/8 battery Impact ain’t worth even thinking about... what about a corded impact?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[old guy]

My assumption is a 3/8 battery Impact ain’t worth even thinking about... what about a corded impact?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have never used a corded impact wrench but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just keep repeating the heat/spray/forward reverse cycle until the bolt turns freely.

[caldy315]

Fastest, are you recommending something like in the link below? Do these go on the upper portion of where the shock mounts? Are these critical to replace or no?

[2004a4b630QT]

I've never used neverseize, but I do know a lot of mechanics swear by it. Personally, I use Permatex silver antiseize and haven't had any issues.

I did my struts, control arms, and inner/outer ties rods about two years ago around 180K miles. I forgot which parts I ordered from FCP, but they were pretty cheap and now I have a horrible squeaking/clunking on the right front side. I haven't attempted to troubleshoot it yet though to see if it's my control arms or something else. They do offer lifetime replacement on parts, so I might have to take it off for a replacement if that's what it ends up being.

I would get yourself some MAPP gas, ratcheting wrenches, and some kind of an impact gun. I used the 30 dollar corded electric one from Harbor Freight, but now I have a cordless Milwaukee I love. I'd also buy the 30 dollar kit from FCP with all brand new bolts in it, so you don't have to go tracking them down.

The sway bar end links I bought were junk, so I kept the OEM ones and I think they were Karlyn's. I have an 04 3.0 and they didn't fit right at all even though they were "supposed" to.

I tried using ATF/Acetone a few times, but never had success with it. I usually go with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or right to the MAPP gas and then use some wax to get into the threads after it's heated.

I got my pinch bolt out with some heat and a punch set from Harbor Freight.

Ok I'll stick with PB Blaster. I Wasn't looking forward to that atf smell again anytime soon anyway.
Definitely going to get a new hardware kit.
I'm still mulling over pressing new bushings to keep the OEM arms. Looking at how thin the metal edge is on those bushings will probably make it a nightmare to press out.
I have access to an 80 gallon compressor so I might just get a non-xt Earthquake with 900 lbs and just cut the psi. This way I can use it for lug nut removal too.
If I buy arms I might just do the uppers for now since my rack is starting leak more and more. It's been collecting fluid for a year with only minor leaking but now it's leaking noticeably. My lower arms look ok still.
Gonna try Old guy's method first and then use a punch if that doesn't work and the twist out method if the head breaks off.

[coffeysm]

Odds are if you're in the rust belt like I am. You're going to need heat and those ball joint boots will end up being toast to get the pinch bolt out. I would stick with propane than, since it burns lower and maybe put a wet wash cloth over your boots. Heat the bolt and then melt candle wax in it also, it will suck it in through capillary action and act like a lubicrant. I've also used pb blaster/liquid wrench after heating it without issues. It's really flammable though if you spray it on an open flame. I'd be careful around hot parts still though with it. The ATF/acetone mixture is also really flammable and will eat through anything less than a heavy duty spray bottle, so thats why I don't use it too much and the fact it's never worked for me, lol. I unthreaded the nut, tapped with a 4lb sledge, backed out bolt, and then used a skinny punch with light tapping to pop it out. That was after heating up for a good amount of time. You might be able to burn out the rubber and then use a hacksaw to get the old bushimg from the control arm.

[coffeysm]

Oh yea I also have that 20 dollar harbor freight ball joint press. It's an awesome tool and worth the money.

[Fast4esT]

Fastest, are you recommending something like in the link below? Do these go on the upper portion of where the shock mounts? Are these critical to replace or no?

i am refering to these, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motor...-601-1002-td~/

didnt see your link. not sure how critical they are to replace, only if yours look bad. mine where going out and it was a good time to do them. I have H&R springs and Bilstein sport shocks, I did not need a spring compressor to remove the strut top nut and remove the mount bushing.

[DougL]

As a lot of other in this thread said- The only successful way I've found to remove the pinch bolts is with map gas, PB blaster, patience and time. Using tools like air-hammers are just going to lead to you fucking up the hub or bolt. An impact gun will just result in you sheering the bolt head off- then you're really screwed. You have to break the weld that occurred from an aluminum sleeve being wrapped around steel for 10+ years.

You just remove the nut (it will probably sheer off) this is OK. Heat the whole hub assembly with the map gas. You'll likely set your upper control arm ball joints on fire- good thing you're replacing them. Stop the gas, spray PB in any joint you think it will seep into, try to turn the bolt head GENTLY- you do not want to sheer this off. Watch the nut side to insure the bolt is actually spinning. You're going to repeat this process over and over again until you get the bolt to turn. When you have it turning a little bit heat it some more and spray more PB in. Eventually it will come right out.

I replaced those bolts with Home Depot hardware (yes I know, it's shit) but I covered the bolt shaft in a lot of anti seize. 3 years later I had to take them out again to replace strut mounts and they slide right out.

Oh and PB blaster is flammable

Get an alignment, your previous alignment was based off of shot bushings.

[2004a4b630QT]

Odds are if you're in the rust belt like I am. You're going to need heat and those ball joint boots will end up being toast to get the pinch bolt out. I would stick with propane than, since it burns lower and maybe put a wet wash cloth over your boots. Heat the bolt and then melt candle wax in it also, it will suck it in through capillary action and act like a lubicrant. I've also used pb blaster/liquid wrench after heating it without issues. It's really flammable though if you spray it on an open flame. I'd be careful around hot parts still though with it. The ATF/acetone mixture is also really flammable and will eat through anything less than a heavy duty spray bottle, so thats why I don't use it too much and the fact it's never worked for me, lol. I unthreaded the nut, tapped with a 4lb sledge, backed out bolt, and then used a skinny punch with light tapping to pop it out. That was after heating up for a good amount of time. You might be able to burn out the rubber and then use a hacksaw to get the old bushimg from the control arm.

I'm definitely in the rust belt. Central NJ. The only upside is the car was garaged for the first 4 years, and had a somewhat strategic parking spot for 6 more years when I mostly worked from home. Since then it's been getting slammed by mother nature. My bolt and knuckle look surprisingly good compared to some I've seen, but I obviously won't know for sure until I start working on it if that means anything.

Did you successfully press out/in a bushing with the harbor freight press? How did you hold it in place? Shop vice?

Yeah, I want to try and save the ball joint, mostly so I can deal with the pinch bolts and then put new ones in a drive for a few days or a week before doing the suspension. I don't want to cook the boots and then be stuck with no car until I can get it all done. Things are getting extra crunchy on slow right turns so I can't put it off much longer. I'm still trying to figure out which repair is most crucial since I can't just go buy all the parts at once. Steering rack is leaking a lot, and I'll be shocked if I don't need a new pump. Also my wheel bearings are howling like it's already Halloween, and I'm not sure if the passenger front or driver rear is the squeaky wheel. Sounds like the front, but I saw a bunch of metal shavings around the hub on the driver's rear when doing a tire rotation a few weeks ago that looked like they might be from the bearing. I don't want to buy cheap arms but I may need to just to get through this rough patch, and then deal with them again when they fail.

[2004a4b630QT]

As a lot of other in this thread said- The only successful way I've found to remove the pinch bolts is with map gas, PB blaster, patience and time. Using tools like air-hammers are just going to lead to you fucking up the hub or bolt. An impact gun will just result in you sheering the bolt head off- then you're really screwed. You have to break the weld that occurred from an aluminum sleeve being wrapped around steel for 10+ years.

You just remove the nut (it will probably sheer off) this is OK. Heat the whole hub assembly with the map gas. You'll likely set your upper control arm ball joints on fire- good thing you're replacing them. Stop the gas, spray PB in any joint you think it will seep into, try to turn the bolt head GENTLY- you do not want to sheer this off. Watch the nut side to insure the bolt is actually spinning. You're going to repeat this process over and over again until you get the bolt to turn. When you have it turning a little bit heat it some more and spray more PB in. Eventually it will come right out.

I replaced those bolts with Home Depot hardware (yes I know, it's shit) but I covered the bolt shaft in a lot of anti seize. 3 years later I had to take them out again to replace strut mounts and they slide right out.

Oh and PB blaster is flammable

Get an alignment, your previous alignment was based off of shot bushings.

My previous alignment was at the factory when the car was built, lol.
So you used hand tools to work the bolt loose after heating it a lot? I'm worried about heating the aluminum too much. A lot of people warn that too much heat kills the structural integrity of the aluminum knuckle. Old guy is east coast too and said he did quite a few with careful use of a little heat and low psi impact wrench for a few seconds in each direction carefully watching the bolt and nut marks to make sure it wasn't shearing.

Maybe it would help if I posted a photo of my bolt in its current state. Not sure if it helps since only some of the thread is visible.
[IMG][/IMG]

Does this look any better, worse, or the same as those of you who had to struggle for days sweating, bleeding and swearing/set your cars on fire/made a deal with the VAG demon in exchange for your auto soul?

[caldy315]

Can’t see your picture so that likely doesn’t help


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[old guy]

There is one other step that I forgot to mention. Place your floor jack underneath the steering knuckle and jack the knuckle up to the normal loaded position before attempting to remove the pinch bolt. This will take some of the load off of the bolt. It will make the bolt easier to break loose and the ball joint posts easier to knock out of the knuckle.

Good luck!

[2004a4b630QT]

Can’t see your picture so that likely doesn’t help


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm still new to the photo posting, not sure why it doesn't show up in IOS. I did a quick search and found that to be a problem with some other photo hosting too. Anyone know the solution to this?